Thursday, June 4, 2015

Jun1-Jun 26 George Rogers Clark,Lincoln Boyhood Home, Mammoth Cave ,Ozark Riverways ,Fort Scott, Wilson's Creek, George Washington Carver Birthplace

MONDAY June 1, 2015
WEATHER:  light rain and 60 degrees at 5:30 am;  rain stopped by 10; high of 68
TRAVEL:  Camp Carlson to Vincennes, IN to Lincoln City, IN to Camp Carlson

217 GEORGE ROGERS CLARK National Historic Park, Vincennes, IN

George Rogers Clark Memorial
The George Rogers Clark Memorial is a memorial - A building - commemorating George Rogers Clark and not much more - Quite a trip a trip for an hour visit.  However, I did learn/re-learn a tremendous amount of history about George Rogers Clark and his efforts in the American Revolution due to an excellent 30 minute movie.

CLARK’S OF VIRGINIA
First of all this is not the Clark of Lewis and Clark, that was William Clark, George’s youngest brother  George was born in 1852; William in 1770.  Both were Virginians.  Both were tall and red-headed frontiersmen.  They were born and bred to lead.  The most undisciplined and individualistic frontiersman would follow them.  Both suffered defeats.  George had his men mutiny on an expedition in 1786.  William lost the bid for governor of Missouri, mainly because he thought it was his destiny.

Primarily due to George Rogers Clark’s western campaign of 1778, the Northwest Territory (Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio) became part of the United States.

FRENCH – BRITISH IN THE WEST
Statue in George Rogers Clark
Memorial 
The French originally had claimed all of the Mississippi Valley and established small forts and trading posts.  They did not disturb the Indians’ actual possession of the land.  Important settlements were Detroit, Michilimackinac, Kaskaskia, Cahokia and Vincennes.   French civilians were allowed to remain in North America following England’s victory over France in the French and Indian War (1754-1763).  There was some sympathy for the American cause due to the French antipathy of the English, but outwardly they supported the English when the American Revolutionary War began.

CAMPAIGN IN THE WEST
In the spring 1778, Clark under orders of Patrick Henry, Governor of Virginia, and 150 Virginians trained on Corn Island in the Ohio River, opposite present day Louisville.  He was joined by another 25 volunteers from Kentucky and Tennessee.    His secret orders, from Governor Henry, were to operate against the British controlled outposts of French inhabitants at Kaskaskia and Cahokia in the Illinois country and Vincennes on the Wabash River.  These were stepping stones to Clark’s ultimate goal, the capture of Fort Detroit.

Clark’s little army approached Kaskaskia on July 4 and took the village without firing a shot. He won over the inhabitants by telling them about the recent alliance between the French and the Americans and by promising religious freedom.

Clark then sent CPT Joseph Bowman and a group of Kaskaskians north to Cahokia.  The residents there also embraced the patriot cause.  At Cahokia, Clark met with warriors from some of the previously hostile Indian tribes allied with the British and gained temporary neutrality through bluff and an outward disdain for danger.  It seems Clark was one tough guy.

French priest Father Pierre Gibault influenced the people of Vincennes to swear allegiance to the patriots.  Clark placed CPT Leonard Helm in command of a small group of French militia at Fort Sackville, at Vincennes

When word of Clark’s conquests reached Fort Detroit, British Lt. Gov. Henry Hamilton led a small force of British regulars and still loyal French militia south to put an end Clark’s intrusion.  Hamilton was joined along the way by hundreds of Indians who remained allied to the British.  The force at Vincennes was outnumbered.  On December 17, 1778 CPT Helm surrendered to Hamilton and the French renounced their recent alliance with the Americans.

Hamilton allowed most of the Indians and French militia to go home for the winter.  Clark found received this intelligence from French merchant, Francis Virgo on February 5, 1779.  Knowing that Hamilton would be reinforced in the spring, Clark set out for Vincennes from Kaskaskia.  After a 180 mile march with much hardship, crossing a “drowned country”, the force reached Vincennes on February 23, 1779.  Again a “bluff” to give no quarter and the ordered execution of 4 captured Indians within view of the fort’s defenders led to Hamilton’s surrender of Fort Sackville on February 25, 1779. 

AFTERMATH
Clark never did attack Fort Detroit.  His efforts did weaken British control west of the Appalachians.  It helped the US acquire the region north and south of the Ohio River in the peace settlement of 1783.  Continued Indian resistance, encouraged by the British, slowed settlement north of the Ohio River. GEN Anthony Wayne defeated warriors at the Battle of Fallen Timbers in Ohio in 1794.  A resurgence of Indian resistance by 1800 under Tecumseh was eventually ended during the War of 1812 and the defeat of Indian forces at the Battle of Tippecanoe by Indiana Governor William Henry Harrison in 1811. 
  


218 LINCOLN BOYHOOD HOME National Memorial, Lincoln City, IN

This place was a little difficult to locate but well worth the trip.  If you had a choice of visiting the Lincoln Birthplace in KY or this Boyhood Home in IN – VISIT HERE.  There is history here,  Lincolns’ life as a young man, a museum, a film, hiking trails and a working farm.  More likely than not, this is where the ideas of Lincoln reading by candlelight were developed, not in KY. Plan about 2 ½ hours.

Lincoln was handy with an ax
but no mention of an occupation
as a vampire slayer
although he did work on the river
Thomas Lincoln was attracted to Indiana by the rich land and security of a title from the systematic land survey as stipulated in the Land Ordinance of 1785, and by the prohibition of slavery. 

In the fall of 1816, Thomas and Nancy Lincoln packed their belongings and their two children, Sarah 9 and Abraham 7 , and left their Kentucky home for the new frontier of southern Indiana.

Lincoln Boyhood Home Map
Abraham Lincoln lived in Indiana for 14 years from age 7 to 21.  With his hands and back he carved out a new home in the wilderness.  His father taught him how to use an ax at an early age.  With his mind, he began to explore the world of books.  The death of his mother Nancy Hanks Lincoln in 1818 and the death of his sister Sarah in 1828 left emotional scars.

Twelve Stones Trail
Stone from Biithplace Home
Nancy died of milk sickness.  It occurs when cattle graze on white snakeroot.  The plant contains tremetol – a poison to animals and to humans who consume milk products or meat from those animals.  Symptoms in humans range from nausea and vomiting to coma and death.  Not common today, it was the scourge of frontier settlements.  After Nancy’s death Sarah at age 11, assumed the duties of woman in the house.  The exact location of Nancy Hanks Lincoln’s grave is not known, but assumed to be in the area of the pioneer cemetery.  Thomas eventually remarried.   
 
LIVING HISTORICAL FARM
The farm house and outbuildings are not where the Lincoln’s lived but it is typical of farms that were in the area at the time.  From mid-April through September the buildings are open and living history interpreters work the farm.

Lincoln Boyhood Memorial Visitor Center




MEMORIAL VISITOR CENTER
Originally the Nancy Hanks Memorial Park it became the Lincoln Boyhood Home National Memorial on February 19, 1962.  It became the first authorized unit of the National Park System in the state of Indiana.  The Memorial Building itself is quite unique – useful -  not just a monument like George Rogers Clark..

TRAILS
There are 3 short trails in the park.  The Trail of 12 Stones is a pleasant walk from the farm to the Visitor Center.  Each of the markers and features a stone from a significant place in Lincoln’s life.   It is a great historical walk.



TUESDAY June 2, 2015
WEATHER:  58 at 5:30 am; cloudy; never got past 65 and that was at 5:30pm.  It’s June, when I got here Saturday I was reminded of the August 1970 Fort Knox heat – not so much now . . . . .
TRAVEL:  drove to Radcliff and Fort Knox

Finished reading John Muir’s  (1838-1914) “A Thousand Mile Walk  to the Gulf”.  The book is a reprint, originally published in 1916 of John Muir’s journal of his 1867-1868 documenting his walk from Indiana to Florida and a sail to Cuba.  His original plan was to walk the entire way through South America – luckily typhoid, caught in Florida,  brought him back from Cuba.  He was lucky to have made it to Cuba without being robbed or killed.  His journal describes some close calls.

The book documents his adventure that started a lifetime of discovery.  Muir shows the wilderness, as well as the towns and people immediately after the Civil War.  Founder of the Sierra Club, he was a ‘free spirit’.  Easy to read, the writings are those of a botanist and ardent conservationist. 


Completed laundry, updated the blog, went to a McDonald’s for WIFI, started reading “Perryville Under Fire” by Stuart W. Sanders.  I may to drive to Perryville this week.  His first chapter is a very concise description of the battle October 8, 1862.

The drive to McDonalds for WIFI was fruitless – NO GO; no phone service either’ drove to the IHG Inn at Fort Knox for WIFI NO GO; no phone service in the building but I did connect my phone to the IHG WIFI.  This place is barren.   I’ve been told that VERIZON should work – huh – ATT will not.  At any rate service is non-existent.


Also started reading Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail” (1998).  I purchased the book in the Smokies.  The critics were correct  . . .  after only two chapters I did find myself “laugh out loud”.  Bryson writes as one critic said “with tenderness, humor and an awakening environmental consciousness”.  This should be a good read.


WEDNESDAY June 3, 2015
WEATHER:  58 degrees at 5:30 am, cloudy, stayed cloudy all day high of 67.
TRAVEL:  a little of 60 miles one way to Mammoth Cave and back.

 219 MAMMOTH CAVE National Park, Mammoth Cave, KY
This was probably my 6th visit  to Mammoth Cave.  The 1st was in February 1972 took the Historic Tour; the 2nd was in the early 1980’s, the 3rd was in the summer of 1989 - probably was the Historic Tour but thought this was a 4 hour walk complete with a cafeteria underground; the 4th in 2003 April and the 5th in late April 2009  involved tours of Domes and Dripstones and what is now called the Star Chamber by lantern light.   The Mammoth Cave Discovery tour is a shortened version of the Historic Tour.

The park service offers 9 different tours .  I’ve taken them all except the Trog Tour for kids only and
Traditional Entrance
the what I imagine crawl on your knew and get muddy and wet
Introduction to Caving and Wild Cave Tour – been there done that at Eagle Cave in Wisconsin – no need to do it again.

Today I took the short Frozen Niagara Tour which is the end of the Domes and Dripstones tour.
The Visitor Center is new since 2009.  A 100% improvement over the old Visitor Center.  Good exhibits – some videos – a number of gift shops.  There is camping at Mammoth Cave National Park, a store on site, a hotel and cabin for rent.  There are plenty of walking trails and some bike trails.  If you visit plan a day and I suggest the Historic Tour (dry cave) and the Domes and Dripstones Tour (wet cave).  The Star Chamber Tour lets you see the cave the way early explorers and tourists saw it by lantern light – this is an evening tour now – it was different when I took it.


Limestone underlies the Mammoth Cave region.  As rainwater infiltrates the soil, it picks up small amounts of carbon dioxide gas.  Carbon dioxide reacts with the water to create a weak carbonic acid, making the groundwater mildly acidic.  Like most major caves, Mammoth Cave was formed by the slow dissolution of limestone by groundwater. 


Mammoth Cave map

Eroded limestone landscapes – called Karst topography – are typified by the Mammoth Cave are.  Sediments of a shallow sea covered this region 350 million years ago formed the  limestone, as highly soluble layers over a 70 million year period.

Over time, as groundwater dissolved the limestone, it forms underground streams.  These streams converge, as surface streams do and created Mammoth Cave’s underground rivers.   The Green River is the regions master stream.  Cave streams responded creating younger and lower routes and abandoning older and higher channels.   At depths of 450’ cave streams are still forming passages.

Mammoth Cave is the largest cave system in the world.  There are currently over 400 miles of mapped passageways.  Experts believe this is only 1/3 of what may still be discovered.   Most caves have an end.  With Mammoth Cave there is no end in sight.

I finished reading “Perryville – Under Fire”I hope to visit Perryville tomorrow.  Reading Bill Bryson’s “ A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America’s Appalachian Trail” is a hoot.  I do find myself laughing out loud as I read.  It reminds me a little of “Confederates in the Attic” but Byrson’s journey is more humorous

I have completed a visit to all of the sites in the Southeast Region of the National Park Service:

ALABAMA 
Natchez Trace NST                            6 MAY 15
Horseshoe Bend NMP                        6 MAR 15
Natchez Trace Parkway (MS &TN)     6 MAY 15
Little River Canyon N PRES             14 MAY 15
Tupelo NB                                           6 MAY 15
Russell Cave NM                              14 MAY 15
Vicksburg NMP                                   8 APR 15
Tuskegee Airmen NHS                       6 MAR 15            
Tuskegee Institute NHS                      6 MAR 15
NORTH CAROLINA
Blue Ridge Parkway                          28 OCT 14
FLORIDA                
Cape Hatteras NS                             19 NOV 14
Big Cypress N PRES                         20 FEB 15    
Cape Lookout NS                              24 NOV 14
Biscayne NP                                      22 JAN 15
Carl Sandburg NHS                          30 OCT 14
Canaveral NS                                   16 JAN 15
Fort Raleigh NHS                             19 NOV 14
Castillo San Marcos NM                    9 DEC 14                  
Guilford Courthouse NMP                31 OCT 14
De Soto N MEM                               23 FEB 15                   
Moore’s Creek NB                            23 NOV 14
Dry Tortugas NP                               18 FEB 15                  
Wright Brothers N MEM                   18 NOV 14
Everglades NP                                 21 FEB 15
Fort Caroline N MEM                         8 DEC 14                
Fort Matanzas NM                             9 DEC 15      
Gulf Islands NS                                  3 MAR 15
Timucuan E & H PRES                      8 DEC 14
                                                                                     
SOUTH CAROLINA

GEORGIA                                                              
Andersonville NHS                          10 MAR 15              
Charles Pickney NHS                        1 DEC 14
Congaree NP                                     1 DEC 14
Chattahoochee River NRA               13 MAY 15              
Cowpens NB                                    30 OCT 14
Chickamauga & Chattanooga NMP 12 MAY 15          
Fort Sumter NM                                 1 DEC 14
Cumberland Island NS                       7 DEC 14                   
Kings Mountain NMP                        29 OCT 14
Fort Frederica NM                              8 DEC 14                  
Ninety Six NHS                                  3 DEC 14
Fort Pulaski NM                                 6 DEC 14
Jimmy Carter NHS                            9 MAR 15                
TENNESSEE
Kennesaw Mountain NBP               13 MAY 15                
Andrew Johnson NHS                     21 MAY 15
Martin Luther King Jr NHS              23 SEP 14                  
Big South Fork NRRA                     19 MAY 15
Ocmulgee NM                                 12 MAR 15               
Fort Donelson NB                           18 APR 14                   
Great Smoky Mountains NP           18-22 MAY 15
KENTUCKY                                                                     
Obed WSR                                      19 MAY 15
Abraham Lincoln Birthplace NHP   31 MAY 15               
Shiloh NMP                                       4 MAY 15
Cumberland Gap NHP                    24 MAY 15               
Stones River NB                                1 MAY 15
Mammoth Cave NP                           3 JUN 15
 PUERTO RICO
San Juan NHS                                   3 FEB 15                                                                                   VIRGIN ISLANDS
Buck Island Reef NM                          4 FEB 15
Christiansted NHS                            30 JAN 15
Salt River Bay NHP & E PRES           4 FEB 15
Virgin Islands NP                              10 FEB 15
Virgin Islands Coral Reef NM           10 FEB 15
MISSISSIPPI                                                                   
Brices Crossroads NBS                      6 MAY 15                   
Natchez NHP                                    16 APR 15                

BOTTOM LINE I’ve visited all but 3 of the NPS sites East of the Mississippi.  One is new (RI); one the other did not have Visitor Centers (NJ). and Governor's Island in NYC was closed when I visited. 

THURSDAY June 4, 2015
WEATHER:  I hope this is the end of June Gloom - - - - 52 this morning but foggy – I could see the moon but no stars – the cool temp could mean the sky is clear above the fog – should get to the 80’s today - - - -  
TRAVEL:  a 70 mile drive to Perryville – Loretto, KY was kind of on the way back to Camp Carlson

OCTOBER 8, 1862 – The Battle of Perryville
New Property
Location of HP Bottom Barn
The Battle of PERRYVILLE was fought on October 8, 1862 between the Confederate forces of Braxton Bragg and the Federal forces led by Don Carlos BuellBuell vastly outnumbered Bragg.  Bragg didn’t want a fight here. One of his suborndinates Leonidas Polk seems to have brought on the battle.  Bragg’s could have been joined by another Confederate Army under Edmund Kirby Smith.  If Smith and Bragg had cooperated   . . . . .  well . . . .  The battle was claimed a victory by both sides.  However, the Confederates left the field after soundly thrashing 1/3 of Buell’s forces under MG Alexander McCook.  The other two Federal Corps did not participate in the battle.  Bragg knowing he was outnumbered decided to withdraw on the evening of the 8th. I’ve spent more than dozen days on the Perryville Battlefield.  You walk it.  It is an easy battle to understand because there are not that many units to try to follow.  Also it looks pretty much the way it did in 1862, there is little development – few, if any, monuments. Additionally, it is easy to understand and follow artillery placement/support. The battlefield is managed as a Kentucky State Park.



Federal Position on
Loomis Heights
I forgot my camera when
I visted Carnes' & Stanford's
Confederate positions
distant hills
Since my last visit the Civil War Trust has added a considerable amount of land that was part of the battlefield.  I walked  the new areas northwest of the H.P. Bottom House along the Hayes-Maye Road and the area just north east of the Hayes-Maye Road.  I also walked to the Confederate artillery position of Carne’s Tennessee Battery and Stanford’s Mississippi Battery.  The Civil War Trust is negotiating purchase of some additional property along Whites Road.  After this piece is purchased – the park will encompass almost all of the battlefield.

The park has seen improvement since my first visit in 2003.  The museum is greatly improved, there have been at least two new videos of the battle produced, and much land has been added.  This is possibly the best Civil War Battlefield to visit and it is not part of the National Park System.

MAKER’S MARK DISTILLERY – Loretto, KY
I was close and had never visited a Kentucky bourbon distillery so I headed for Maker’s Mark in Loretto, KY.  At first I almost did not take the $9 tour but am glad I did.  The distillery is set up for visitors – almost park-like.  Buildings are black with red trim (like the sealing wax on the bottles). 

From what I remember it is corn that makes bourbon – bourbon as opposed to whisky.  Maker’s Mark uses approximately 80% corn and some winter wheat – no rye.  The grain is rolled not crushed.  There is always some of an old batch added to a new batch.

Maker’s Mark is smooth - - - compared to other bourbon’s.  It originally was T.W. Williams bourbon for over 4 generations.  The brand and formula for Maker’s Mark was developed in 1953.  It is a top shelf brand and this is a top shelf tour.

Each label is cut by a person operating a cutting machine – it is not automatic.  Each bottle is hand dipped for the distinctive red sealing wax.  The “tasting” consists of pre-poured flight of 4 snifters with samples for each person over 21 on the tour – Maker’s WhiteMaker’s Mark Maker’s 46 Maker’s Barrel Strength.   The guide takes you through the tasting and explains the qualities of each brand . . . a class act.

Distillation


Threr's even a brand (green label & green wax) instant Mint Julip



These ladies hand=dip the bottle all day
I purchased and then got to hand dip red wax seal six 375 ml bottles of Maker’s Mark and one bottle of Maker’s White (can’t be bought in stores – expensive moonshine) for gifts.  

KENTUCKY BOURBON TRAIL
There are 9 distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.  Yes, they even have a Kentucky Bourbon Trail Passport.  Completion of the trail gets you a free t-shirt and a certificate.  Take a couple of days to do this one.
Evan Williams – Lousiville, KY                                   
Maker’s Mark – Loreeto, KY
Bulleit – Louisville, KY                                                
Woodford Reserve – Versaille, KY
Jim Beam –  Clermont, KY                                         
Town Branch – Lexington, KY
Four Roses – Lawrenceburg, KY                               
Wild Turkey – Lawrenceburg, KY
Heaven Hill – Bardstown, KY


FRIDAY June 4, 2015
WEATHER:  56 at 5 am – clear – got up to the mid 80’s mostly sunny
TRAVEL:  Camp Carlson to Corydon, IN to Fort Knox to Camp Carlson



Read a few chapters of Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods”.  It started off funny – now – just plodding along . . .



Drove to Old Capital Golf Club in Corydon, IN – a 30 mile drive.  Reasonable cost $18 with cart.  The course was in good shape – fast greens and enough water.  I shot a 52 with 2 lost balls and 23 putts.  It took me 5 holes to settle in – it’s been almost a month since I played a round of golf.  





SATURDAY June 4, 2015
WEATHER:  62 at 5:30 am; clear; should get to the mid 80’s
TRAVEL:  only around post and to Mass

Cleaned the Bear Cave of the trailer; washed the front of the trailer trying to get the bugs off; laundry; and washed the truck.  Read some . . . . Still unable to figure out how to tilt the awning.


Drove to IHG inn on base – Fort Knox - hooked up to their WIFI around 3:15 – patience is a virtue -  updated the blog but lost all entries for the 30 and 31st of May.  I’ll try to update it next week.

St. Christopher's Radcliff KY
5 pm MASS at St. Christopher’s Catholic Church in Radcliff, KY.  It was the Feast of Corpus Christie.  Last week gold vestments – this week red and gold.  There were more candles this week that last, more incense and  . . . . the Deacon had returned with “less weight and healthier” according to the pastor.  He needed to lean on someone as he walked and if is lighter – he must have been real heavy in the past.  Surprisingly, he gave a good homily – you wanted to listen - Be Not Afraid.  There were six servers, ages from grade school to retired.  Two with beards - red cassocks and surplices – all very ‘prayerful’ - half the mass was sung in Latin. The”Our Father” was said in everyone’s native tongue – the priest said it in Latin – interesting.  I didn’t stay for the 45 minute procession and service after Mass – few did.

Originally, I  thought a fast  9 holes at Fort Knox would follow mass but decided to go to Applebee’s instead.  Watched American Pharaoh win the Belmont Stakes and the TRIPLE CROWN – I believe the 1st since 1978.  He’ll have an easy life now – as he goes to stud.  He is a fast horse – going around the track he walked as the lead horse had to trot,

SUNDAY June 7, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 5:30 – 91 degrees when I got to Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area in Lin Creek MO – about 35 miles and an hour drive from Fort Leonard Wood
TRAVEL:  a long drive – some 458 miles – longer than I thought but I did gain an hour going to central time.

Lake of the Ozarks
Recreation Area


LORA trailer site
Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area (LORA) is part of Fort Leonard Wood but about 35 miles and 1 hour from the base.  A nice place – concrete pull through pads, full hookups – on the water with rental facilities – lots of boat slips for rent.  I’m in a pull through site – very level  - but the sites are close together – like most standard RV parks.  NO WIFI but there is phone service.  I’ll endure – the price is right – it should be $115 for 10 nights.  Nice bathhouse – smaller and not as new as Camp Carlson but the laundry is free.




MONDAY June 8, 2015
WEATHER:  thunderstorm around midnight – about ½” of rain - 72 at 5 am – mid 80’s by 3 pm with few clouds
TRAVEL:  a 160 mile one way trip to Van Buren, MO from LORA


220 OZARK NATIONAL SCENIC RIVERWAY, 404 Watercress Dr, Van Buren, MO
The drive from LORA to Van Buren, MO is interesting.  The first part of the journey is a 20 mile two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri – it’s 20 miles to the Richmond and the closest gas station – no McDonald’s – no Wal-Mart.  The next 100 miles is two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri.  The next 40 miles is four lane highway with a 65 mph speed limit – towns spaced every 20 miles or so.  Rained most of the morning until about 1pm – then cleared up and in the mid 80’s.  I made 4 stops in the Ozark National Scenic Riverway

The Ozarks – so what was the draw here  . . . . well the Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE) had plans to build a dam at Van Buren, MO.  It would have put roads I drove and the places I visited today underwater – The 1960’s ACOE proposals captured the attention of the Congress.  In 1964 Congress authorized 134 miles of rivers as the first national scenic river ways.  If the Ozarks had not been saved there might have been gun play in ‘them der hills’ of the Ozarks as ACOE tried to build a dam – believe me – a lot of folks take their hunting grounds pretty seriously – and it had nothing to do with concealed carry.

Map at Park HQ in Van Buren, MO

So it’s the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers and caves and springs that appear to gush from the ground that make the Ozark National Scenic Riverway special and unique.  The springs really are gushers – I only visited two – they are amazing.  I wish I had visited Blue Spring – 310 feet deep and a deep blue due to minerals dissolved in the water.  Devils Well is another  - sinkhole formed when a cavern roof  containing a lake collapsed.  The riverway is huge – at least 70 miles or narrow river corridor – with fast moving water – and little or no development..   


Alley Springs - The Past
ALLEY SPRINGS VISITOR CENTER
Alley Springs Mill



















The first stop was Alley Springs Visitor Center.  Cold , clear waters rise from deep within Alley Spring at an average daily flow of 81 million gallons.  The gush through the mill dam was impressive.  The red mill itself is also perfect for a picture.  I walked a short trail around the spring pond and stopped to see the building that once houses a school. 

The mill was constructed in 1894.  Since the water supply from the spring was constant it was the perfect place for a mill.  Alley was home, farm and school for the people who lived there 100 years ago. 

There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites and canoe rental.
Karst Topography

Rock Falls
Big Spring in the background
ROCK FALLS
The ranger suggested a drive to this place – it was on the way to Van Buren.

PARK HEADQUARTERS – Watercress Park – Van Buren, MO
No film – it is an admin HQ but a nice building.

BIG SPRING
This was the gusher – the water clear – green – blue – an aquamarine hue.  Worth the vist just to see the water.  Big Spring is the largest spring in Missouri and one of the largest in the world with an average daily flow of 286 million gallons per day. No small stream is formed by this spring – it starts as a river. 

Big Spring - clear
 the color is amazing
There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites.

Big Spring close up view  - it looks and sounds like a boil





















TUESDAY June 9, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 5:30 – if you believe thermometers it was 96 in Fort Scott, KS at 1 pm.  Staff at the Park said summer isn’t here until we get our first 3 digit day.  Well – today it was close.
TRAVEL:  a 130 mile 2 ½ hour one way drive west to Fort Scott, KS and back

221 FORT SCOTT NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Fort Scott, KS
A visit to this site is a 3 hour history lesson.  You learn about the Forts that were built along the western frontier to protect the Indians and their land, how that peace was broken by white settlers moving west – in the name of “manifest destiny” – something the Indians could not undertand, the Mexican War, the Santa Fe Trail, “Bleeding Kansas” and the Kansas-Nebraska Act, the Civil War and the coming of the railroads . . . . and of course the soldiers that lived here at Fort Scott.  There is a lot of history here.

Fort Scott is the name of the town and the buildings of the original Fort Scott were reconstructed/renovated after it became a National Historic Site in 1978.


There was one shed with 3 cannon in it and to tell you the truth I was confused.  Iron cannon – 6 lb field guns that were larger than a 12 lb mountain howitzer.  I had to ask the ranger to sort it all out.  The captions under the photos may tell the story.  Of course, and not unusual for the NPS - don’t believe all you read  . . . some of what the NPS publishes is in error.  Yes, really a government agency not telling the truth.  Not the first or the last.  Just be carefull.
Another 6 lb Field Gun - iron - note handles
per the ranger

After the tour of the Fort and a discussion with the ranger, I asked if there was someplace to eat close by.  He provided 5 restaurants within a block or two walk.  I had a Reuben sandwich and a beer at Sharkey’s.

WEDNESDAY June 10, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 4:15 am – got up to the 90’s again today – a slight shower coming back from Diamond cooled things down for about 30 minutes
TRAVEL:  a southwest drive of 110 miles (2 ¼ hours) to WEATHER:  68 at 5:30 – 91 degrees when I got to Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area in Lin Creek MO – about 35 miles and an hour drive from Fort Leonard Wood
TRAVEL:  a long drive – some 458 miles – longer than I thought but I did gain an hour going to central time.

Lake of the Ozarks
Recreation Area

LORA trailer site
Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area (LORA) is part of Fort Leonard Wood but about 35 miles and 1 hour from the base.  A nice place – concrete pull through pads, full hookups – on the water with rental facilities – lots of boat slips for rent.  I’m in a pull through site – very level  - but the sites are close together – like most standard RV parks.  NO WIFI but there is phone service.  I’ll endure – the price is right – it should be $115 for 10 nights.  Nice bathhouse – smaller and not as new as Camp Carlson but the laundry is free.




MONDAY June 8, 2015
WEATHER:  thunderstorm around midnight – about ½” of rain - 72 at 5 am – mid 80’s by 3 pm with few clouds
TRAVEL:  a 160 mile one way trip to Van Buren, MO from LORA


220 OZARK NATIONAL SCENIC RIVERWAY, 404 Watercress Dr, Van Buren, MO
The drive from LORA to Van Buren, MO is interesting.  The first part of the journey is a 20 mile two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri – it’s 20 miles to the Richmond and the closest gas station – no McDonald’s – no Wal-Mart.  The next 100 miles is two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri.  The next 40 miles is four lane highway with a 65 mph speed limit – towns spaced every 20 miles or so.  Rained most of the morning until about 1pm – then cleared up and in the mid 80’s.  I made 4 stops in the Ozark National Scenic Riverway

The Ozarks – so what was the draw here  . . . . well the Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE) had plans to build a dam at Van Buren, MO.  It would have put roads I drove and the places I visited today underwater – The 1960’s ACOE proposals captured the attention of the Congress.  In 1964 Congress authorized 134 miles of rivers as the first national scenic river ways.  If the Ozarks had not been saved there might have been gun play in ‘them der hills’ of the Ozarks as ACOE tried to build a dam – believe me – a lot of folks take their hunting grounds pretty seriously – and it had nothing to do with concealed carry.

Map at Park HQ in Van Buren, MO

So it’s the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers and caves and springs that appear to gush from the ground that make the Ozark National Scenic Riverway special and unique.  The springs really are gushers – I only visited two – they are amazing.  I wish I had visited Blue Spring – 310 feet deep and a deep blue due to minerals dissolved in the water.  Devils Well is another  - sinkhole formed when a cavern roof  containing a lake collapsed.  The riverway is huge – at least 70 miles or narrow river corridor – with fast moving water – and little or no development..   


Alley Springs - The Past
ALLEY SPRINGS VISITOR CENTER
Alley Springs Mill



















The first stop was Alley Springs Visitor Center.  Cold , clear waters rise from deep within Alley Spring at an average daily flow of 81 million gallons.  The gush through the mill dam was impressive.  The red mill itself is also perfect for a picture.  I walked a short trail around the spring pond and stopped to see the building that once houses a school. 

The mill was constructed in 1894.  Since the water supply from the spring was constant it was the perfect place for a mill.  Alley was home, farm and school for the people who lived there 100 years ago. 

There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites and canoe rental.
Karst Topography

Rock Falls
Big Spring in the background
ROCK FALLS
The ranger suggested a drive to this place – it was on the way to Van Buren.
PARK HEADQUARTERS – Watercress Park – Van Buren, MO
No film – it is an admin HQ but a nice building.

BIG SPRING
This was the gusher – the water clear – green – blue – an aquamarine hue.  Worth the vist just to see the water.  Big Spring is the largest spring in Missouri and one of the largest in the world with an average daily flow of 286 million gallons per day. No small stream is formed by this spring – it starts as a river. 

Big Spring - clear
 the color is amazing
There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites.

Big Spring close up view  - it looks and sounds like a boil















TUESDAY June 9, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 5:30 – if you believe thermometers it was 96 in Fort Scott, KS at 1 pm.  Staff at the Park said summer isn’t here until we get our first 3 digit day.  Well – today it was close.
TRAVEL:  a 130 mile 2 ½ hour one way drive west to Fort Scott, KS and back

221 FORT SCOTT NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Fort Scott, KS
A visit to this site is a 3 hour history lesson.  You learn about the Forts that were built along the western frontier to protect the Indians and their land, how that peace was broken by white settlers moving west – in the name of “manifest destiny” – something the Indians could not undertand, the Mexican War, the Santa Fe Trail, “Bleeding Kansas” and the Kansas-Nebraska Act, the Civil War and the coming of the railroads . . . . and of course the soldiers that lived here at Fort Scott.  There is a lot of history here.

Fort Scott is the name of the town and the buildings of the original Fort Scott were reconstructed/renovated after it became a National Historic Site in 1978.









When Fort Scott was established in 1842 the US was still young and confined largely to the area east of the Mississippi.  Yet within a few years, Fort Scott’s soldiers became involved in events that lead to tremendous spurts of growth and expansion.

As the nation developed tensions over slavery led to the conflict & turmoil of “Bleeding Kansas” and the Civil War.  Eventually, the US emerged as a  transcontinental nation.

The current Visitor Center was once the Fort’s Hospital.  There is a small gift shop.  The rangers were very helpful.  Next door the Infantry Barracks with a very good 35 minute film that tells the story and history of Fort Scott.  As you move around the quadrangle you visit the Dragoon Stables, the Dragoon Barracks, Post HeadquartersOfficers Quarters, the Quartermaster Compound and the Guardhouse.  Each building has displays and exhibits.

12 lb Mountain Howitzer
per the ranger
I'm still not sure
Brass
6 lb Field Gun
per the ranger still not sure
Made of Iron Model 1841
not auhemtic they were brass


There was one shed with 3 cannon in it and to tell you the truth I was confused.  Iron cannon – 6 lb field guns that were larger than a 12 lb mountain howitzer.  I had to ask the ranger to sort it all out.  The captions under the photos may tell the story.  Of course, and not unusual for the NPS - don’t believe all you read  . . . some of what the NPS publishes is in error.  Yes, really a government agency not telling the truth.  Not the first or the last.  Just be carefull.
Another 6 lb Field Gun - iron - note handles
per the ranger

After the tour of the Fort and a discussion with the ranger, I asked if there was someplace to eat close by.  He provided 5 restaurants within a block or two walk.  I had a Reuben sandwich and a beer at Sharkey’s.

WEDNESDAY June 10, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 4:15 am – got up to the 90’s again today – a slight shower coming back from Diamond cooled things down for about 30 minutes
TRAVEL:  a southwest drive of 110 miles (2 ¼ hours) to Repulic, MO then Diamond, MO 55miles west (about 50 minutes) and then back past Republic to Branson, MO

Republic, MO then Diamond, MO 55miles west (about 50 minutes) and then back past Republic to Branson, MO

222 WILSON’S CREEK NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD, Republic, MO


This says it all

Visitor Center
THIS WAS MY MOST DISSAPOINTING VISIT TO A SITE RUN BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.  The road was closed to all vehicle and pedestrian traffic. It appears to have been closed for at least 6 weeks already.  Come on now- really?  I had planned to walk the 4.9 mile auto-tour loop with short hikes to unit positions BUT NPS would not even let pedestrians or bikes, or let alone cars on the road.    A 2 hour drive to see a not so great museum, a good film and an electric map.  I could have done that through a virtual tour on the internet.

The Battle of Wilson’s Creek in 1861 opened the Civil War in Missouri.  For the next 3 ½ years, the state saw fierce fighting, mostly guerilla warfare, with band of mounted raiders destroying anything military or civilian that could aid the enemy.

The Battle of Wilson’s Creek (called Oak Hills by the CSA) was 
fought southwest of Springfield, MO on August 10, 1861. 

The allegiance of Missouri was considered critical to the Federal government.  Missouri like Kentucky was a slave state.  Most Missourians wanted neutrality but some including Governor Claiborne F. Jackson, held southern sympathies.  Jackson ordered state militia units to muster and Camp Jackson outside St. Louis and prepare to seize the US arsenal.

CPT Nathanial Lyon, arsenal commander, learned of Jackson’s intentions and moved most of the weapons to Illinois.  In May, Lyons marched 7,000 men to Camp Jackson to forced  its surrender.   Jackson retreated and marched southwest and Lyon occupied Jefferson City, the state capital.

Meanwhile, Missouri State Guard Commander MG Sterling Price had been drilling 5,000 soldiers southwest of Springfield.  By the end of July, troops under the command of BG Ben McCulloch and BG Nicholas Bart Pierce brought the Confederate strength to 12,000.

Lyon now promoted to BG, by July 13 had 5,200 Federal troops camped near Springfield.
McCulloch, Pierce and Price were camped at Wilson Creek and had decided to attack Lyon Lyon thinking surprise would give him the advantage decided to attack a superior force..  He left 1,000 soldiers to guard supplies at Springfield.  On the night of August 9 he moved.  His plan called for 1,200 men under COL Franz Sigel to swing wide to the south, flanking the Confederate right, as Lyon’s force struck from the north.

The battle raged on Bloody Hill for five hours with control of the hill changing with each attack and counterattack.  Sigel’s flanking movement failed – he and his troops fled back to Springfield.  BG Lyon was KIA as he led a charge of the 2nd Kansas against COL Richard Wainwright’s Missourians.   Command of the Federal forces passed to MAJ Samuel Sturgis and with ammunition nearly exhausted by 11 am ordered a withdrawal.   The Confederate forces did not pursue.  Lyon lost the battle but achieved his goal.  Missouri stayed in the Union.

I’m glad I read “Campaign for Wilson Creek: The Fight for Missouri Begins” by Jeffrey L. Patrick.  The non-visit to the battlefield site was not enlightening.

After Wilson’s Creek Confederate MG Sterling Price led his Missouri State Guard to capture the Union garrison at Lexington, MO.  He stayed in Missouri until driven to Arkansas in early 1862.  The Union victory at the Battle of Pea Ridge in March 1862 marked a setback for western Confederate military forces.

In September, 1864 Sterling Price  returned to Missouri with 12,000 men.  By the time his campaign ended, he had marched nearly 1,500 miles, fought 43 battles of skirmishes, and destroyed over $10 million in property.  Yet, the campaign ended is disaster.   At the Battle of Westport on October 23, the largest battle west of the Mississippi, Price was defeated and retreated south.  By the end of the Civil War, Missouri had seen so many battles and skirmishes that it would rank as the 3rd most fought-over-state in the nation.

BUT THE DAY WAS NOT A LOSS – I headed west for a visit to George Washington Carver National Monument – a planned visit – just a day early.  This was rewarding.

223 GEORGE WASHINGTON CARVER NATIONAL MONUMENT, 5646 Carver Rd, Diamond, MO
This was a 55 mile drive – about 50 minutes – mostly I-44 and it exceeded my expectations.  When I visited Tuskegee – founded by Booker T. Washington – it seemed to me that the Institute had more to do with Carver than Booker T. Washington

He is known – remembered – as the “peanut man” but he was so much more.  I really think this man was a genius – born a slave in 1864  -  he had a thirst for knowledge and set out to get it.
He was an artist, a scientist, a botanist, a writer  . . . .  Carver had a good way of saying things.  His quotes, to me, mean more than those of Martin Luther King.  Above all George Washington Carver was a simple and humble man who only wanted to serve his people.

The monument was dedicated in 1943.  The Visitor Center is a great place to visit.  There is a fine 28 minute film about Carver and his life.  The museum is worth 30-35 minutes of time to read about his life and achievements.  There is level with interactive exhibits for kids, a classroom, and a lab classroom that many high school science teachers would really like to have.  Additionally, there is a ¾+ mile trail through the woods that Carver enjoyed studying nature and a reconstructed Moses Carver farm house.  The grounds are very pleasant – a good place for a picnic lunch.  The walk in the woods is full of birds singing and a spring fed stream running.  Plan at least 2 hours to visit this place.   




Statue of the Boy Carver
on the trail
George Washington Carver was born a slave on the Moses and Susan Carver farm about 1864.  He and his mother were kidnapped by outlaws when he was an infant.  They were relocated to Arkansas.  George was later located in Arkansas and returned to the Carver farm.  His mother was never found.  He never knew who his father was.  Growing up he was a frail boy and that freed him from many chores – giving him time to explore.  He acquired flowers and put them in a garden – given the nickname “Plant Doctor.”  He left the farm in 1873 in a search for education through Missouri, Kansas and finally Iowa.

Carver was motivated by his love for all creation – all creation was a window of God and a mouthpiece through which the Great Creator spoke.  To Carver, a successful life was one of service through helping others.

Eight Cardinal Virtues:
In an letter of thanks to the Senior Class at Tuskegee 1922 (they had given him a fountain pen as a
Christmas gift) Carver wrote . . . .

“This gift, like all the others, is characterized by simplicity and thoughtfulness, which I hope each member will make the slogan of their lives.
 . . . will rise to the full height of your possibilities, which means possession of these eight cardinal virtues which constitutes a lady or a gentleman.
1st Be clean inside and outside.
2nd Who neither looks up to the rich or down on the pooer.
3rd Who loses, if need be, without squealing.
4th Who wins without bragging.
5th Who is always considerate of women, children and old people.
6th Who is to brave to lie.
7th Who is too generous to cheat.
8th Who takes his share of the world and lets other people have theirs.


He was asked to join the staff at Tuskegee by Booker T. Washington in 1896.  His peanut work began around 1903, and was aimed at freeing African American farmers in the south from the tyranny of King Cotton.  He convinced southern farmers to grow soil-enriching crops as soybeans and peanuts.




In 1921 he gained public attention with testimony before a US Congress House Committee debating the peanut tariff bill.  His work and encyclopedic knowledge of plant properties impressed Thomas Edison and Henry FordCarver died at Tuskegee on January 5, 1943.  The monument was the first park to honor an African American scientist, educator and humanitarian.



BRANSON, MO
I’ve never been to Branson and heard so much about it – like Gatlinburg – so instead of going for a 7 mile walk in 90 degree weather at the Pea Ridge Battlefield which I had visited about 6 weeks ago – I decided to go to Branson and stay overnight – see a show – and continue on to the  George Washington Carver National Historic Site near Joplin, MO on the MO/KS border then return to LORA but I visited Carver first due to the literal closing of Wilson’s Creek Battlefield where I had planned to walk the 5+ mile trail..

The Holiday Inn Express has WIFI.  I decided to get a ticket to an Eagles Tribute band . . . . someone I know has a passion for the Eagles.  So far – Branson – I don’t see the draw.


I walked a little over 1 ½ miles to the theatre.  It wasn’t large – maybe 12 uneven rows – smaller than the REP – more space between seats – no alcohol served – I got 3rd row 2nd seat from the center.  The band was good - - - - - I enjoyed the harmonies which were almost like the Eagles – the guitar work was pretty much spot on.  In tribute to Joe Walsh they did “Walk Away” James Gang – first time I ever heard that song live – it was done exceptionally well.  Two sets - opened with “Hotel California” – closed with “Life in the Fast Lane” and   The group was sincere – they mingled with the crowd during intermission and had a reception line setup up as everyone left the theater.  I was impressed.  Cost was a well spent $40 for the show.
Eagles Tribute Band - Life in the Fast Lane - It was a good concert/show   3rd Row Left 2nd seat  

But Branson – like Gatlinburg, has a Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, a Hollywood Wax Museum, an Aquarium,  even Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede dinner show, and of course the Titanic.  Here at Branson “Hee Haw” still exists – it’s still the late 50’s early 60’s with family oriented shows – gospel, comedy, the Osmonds, country, the Hagoods, a sprinkling of shops – plenty of restaurants and hotels, lot of tribute groups – you can find Elvis, John Denver, Doo Wop, Paul Anka, did I say Elvis . . . .  . and of course more glitter and country than today’s country – no Minnie Pearl – guess she belongs to Nashville.   The Andy Williams Theatre is run by the Osmonds – of course they do the Christmas show in between you can see magic shows, Mel Tellis, Colin Raye,  and other family groups.  There must be a dam somewhere near – because there is a lake and you can ride the “ducks.”  No gambling – few bars - - - - I prefer Gatlinburg but Branson has more parking- less crowded..  


THURSDAY June 11, 2015
WEATHER:  warm – high in the 90’s
TRAVEL:  Branson to Ozark HD in Lebanon, MO to Fort Leonard Wood to LORA

Lebanon, MO
Slept in – out of bed at 6 am.  Of course I was out until 11 pm and I did walk back . . . . . just the same the bed felt good – WIFI works here stayed until 10 am.  I’ll have to find a McDonald’s WIFI tomorrow.  I think I may make come changes to where I will be staying. 

Updated BLOG and readjusted the schedule for the next two week.  Readjusted - due to distances and desire to golf in KS (Ft. Riley) and IA, also due to the fact that I cannot get into the Durand Campground until Friday due to it being full until then.

Stopped at A HD dealer in Lebanon, MO – of course I bought something here.

Tried the Chevy Dealer in Lebanon to get an oil change but he was unable to fit me in.  Goodbye.

Drove to Fort Leonard Wood.  My first time here.  The golf course is exactly 53 miles from LORA – that’s a long drive.  Leonard Wood, like most army bases goes in circles – easy to get confused – I did -  until you get a feel for the layout.   Looks like this is home to Support Services – Engineers, MPs and Chemical.  I did see DRILL SGTS – it could be a OSUT site.

Piney Valley GC #9 view to the Clubhouse
GOLF – PINEY VALLEY GOLF COURSE – Fort Leonard Wood, Missouri.   A nice course.  It was 92 degrees – few on the course  - - - -  very quiet  - played 9 with a cart in just under 90 minutes.  I shot 51 with 20 putts.  No lost balls but the rough is very rough – stay in the fairway.  Heavy air or just a long course  . . . . .   

Staff here at LORA cut the grass around the trailer and in the process had unknowlingly disconnected the power – therefore the refrigerator went into auto mode and used all the propane.  OK, I haven’t filled a 20 gallon tank since October.  Now I have to find a propane dealer and a Chevy dealer and a McDonald’s with WIFI and power outlets. 

FRIDAY June 12, 2015
WEATHER:  74 5:30 am – not much of a cool down - - - -  
TRAVEL: Camdenton and found Osage Beach - civilization

I finished reading short pamphlet books about Fort Scott and Fort Larned.   Refilled both propane tanks in Camdenton.  Found a McDonalds with WIFI and a power outlet in Osage Beach, MO. Changed my drive schedule for the next 10 days based on distances to travel.  Drove back to the Chevy dealer in Camdenton – changed the oil and rotated the tires.


SATURDAY - TUESDAY June 13-16, 2015
WEATHER:  68 at 5:30 –
TRAVEL:   about 66 miles to Columbia Jefferson City Memorial Airport (believe me Oshkosh has a larger airport and Jefferson City is the capital of Missouri)

Fly Home for a family reunion with an old and very dear friend and a visit to the dentist and urologist – oh my . . . .  and then back to Missouri.



However today was a LOST DAY.  Up at 2:15 am; at 3 am I got a call from American Airlines indicating that the flight has been delayed until 10:56 am (it was scheduled for 5:05 am).  Arrived at Columbia Jefferson City Airport at 4:15 ( I’ve seen bigger airports in the Virgin Islands); found a McDonald’s for WIFI (apparently 3 people use it as a place to sleep); a call to American Airlines indicates a 1 ¼ to 1 ¾ hour wait time or you can have someone call – won’t lose your place in line – system would not accept my cell phone # - goodbye); called United Airlines (obviously I will not make my 8:08 am connecting flight from Chicago to Milwaukee); $200 charge to change the ticket (it cost $188.20) or $75 to get a flight at 4:36 pm plus another $225 because of the change in price or wait until after 8 pm for same price plus $75 to change same day ticket – no sympathy - just like the dentist cancellation over 6 weeks ago – a disaster – I don’t have a good feeling about seeing the dentist on Monday.  I’ll take a bus from Chicago or a train of a cab – less expensive than the change in flight already lost another $188.20 – just a bad bet.

The weekend was rewarding and eventful.

The trip back from MKE to ORD also had its challenges.  Because I did not make the 8:08 am flight from Chicago to Milwaukee, UA cancelled the ticket.  However, after what could have been a disaster UA received a letter of thanks from me.  BOTTOM LINE: There was a caring and understanding agent at the gate in Milwaukee.


WEDNESDAY –SUNDAY June 14 - 26, 2015
WEATHER:  Rain squalls in MO, Clouds in IL pleasant in WI
TRAVEL:  LORA to Home



CHANGE IN PLANS.  I’ll resume travels with a visit to the Pipestone National Monument area in MN on June 28.  Brown vs Board of Education, Harry S. Truman home and library, Tallgrass Prairie, Nicodemus, Homestead, Eisenhower library and Fort Larned will be added to the end of the trip next year., 

June 26, - September, 2015–


Long delay - - - - - - see you in September – hopefully – not sure in which state I will take up the travels.