MONDAY
June 1, 2015
WEATHER: light rain
and 60 degrees at 5:30 am; rain stopped
by 10; high of 68
TRAVEL: Camp Carlson
to Vincennes, IN to Lincoln City, IN to Camp Carlson
217 GEORGE ROGERS CLARK National Historic Park, Vincennes,
IN
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| George Rogers Clark Memorial |
CLARK’S
OF VIRGINIA
First of all this is not
the Clark of Lewis and Clark, that was William
Clark, George’s youngest brother George was born in 1852; William
in 1770. Both
were Virginians. Both were tall and
red-headed frontiersmen. They were born
and bred to lead. The most undisciplined
and individualistic frontiersman would follow them. Both suffered defeats. George
had his men mutiny on an expedition in 1786. William lost the bid for governor of Missouri, mainly because he thought it was
his destiny.
Primarily due to George Rogers Clark’s western campaign of 1778, the Northwest
Territory (Wisconsin, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio)
became part of the United States.
FRENCH
– BRITISH IN THE WEST
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| Statue in George Rogers Clark Memorial |
CAMPAIGN
IN THE WEST
In the spring 1778, Clark under orders of Patrick
Henry, Governor of Virginia, and 150 Virginians trained
on Corn Island in the Ohio
River, opposite present day Louisville. He was joined by another 25 volunteers from
Kentucky and Tennessee. His secret
orders, from Governor Henry, were to operate against the British controlled outposts of French
inhabitants at Kaskaskia and Cahokia in the Illinois country and Vincennes on the Wabash River. These were
stepping stones to
Clark’s ultimate goal, the capture of Fort Detroit.
Clark’s little army approached
Kaskaskia on July 4 and took the village without firing a shot. He won over the
inhabitants by telling them about the recent alliance between the French and
the Americans and by promising religious freedom.
Clark
then sent CPT Joseph
Bowman and a group of Kaskaskians north to Cahokia. The residents there also
embraced the patriot cause. At Cahokia, Clark met with warriors from some of the previously hostile Indian tribes
allied with the British and gained temporary neutrality through bluff and an
outward disdain for danger. It seems Clark was one tough guy.
French priest Father Pierre Gibault influenced the people of Vincennes
to swear allegiance to the patriots. Clark placed CPT Leonard Helm in command of a small group of French militia at Fort Sackville, at Vincennes.
When word of Clark’s conquests reached Fort
Detroit, British Lt. Gov. Henry Hamilton led a small force of British
regulars and still loyal French militia south to put an end Clark’s intrusion. Hamilton was joined along the way by hundreds of Indians who remained allied to
the British. The force at Vincennes was outnumbered. On December 17,
1778 CPT Helm surrendered to Hamilton
and the French renounced their recent alliance with
the Americans.
Hamilton allowed most of the Indians and French militia to go home for the
winter. Clark found received this intelligence
from French merchant, Francis
Virgo on February 5, 1779. Knowing that Hamilton would be reinforced in the
spring, Clark set out for Vincennes from Kaskaskia. After a 180 mile march with much
hardship, crossing a “drowned country”,
the force reached Vincennes
on February 23, 1779. Again a “bluff” to give no quarter and the
ordered execution of 4 captured Indians within view of the fort’s defenders led
to Hamilton’s surrender of Fort
Sackville on February 25, 1779.
AFTERMATH
Clark never did attack Fort
Detroit. His efforts
did weaken British control west of the Appalachians. It helped the US acquire the region north and
south of the Ohio River in the peace settlement of 1783. Continued Indian resistance, encouraged by
the British, slowed settlement north of the Ohio River. GEN Anthony Wayne defeated warriors at the Battle
of Fallen
Timbers in Ohio in 1794.
A resurgence of Indian resistance by 1800 under Tecumseh was eventually ended during the War
of 1812 and the defeat of Indian forces at the Battle of Tippecanoe by Indiana Governor William
Henry Harrison in 1811.
218 LINCOLN BOYHOOD HOME National Memorial, Lincoln
City, IN
This place was a little difficult to locate but well worth the trip. If you had a choice of visiting the Lincoln Birthplace in KY or this Boyhood Home in IN – VISIT HERE. There is history here, Lincolns’ life as a young man, a museum, a film, hiking trails and a working farm. More likely than not, this is where the ideas of Lincoln reading by candlelight were developed, not in KY. Plan about 2 ½ hours.
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| Lincoln was handy with an ax but no mention of an occupation as a vampire slayer although he did work on the river |
In the fall of 1816, Thomas and Nancy Lincoln packed their belongings and their two children, Sarah 9 and Abraham 7 , and left their Kentucky home for the new frontier of southern
Indiana.
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| Lincoln Boyhood Home Map |
Abraham
Lincoln lived in Indiana for 14 years from age 7 to
21. With his hands and back he carved
out a new home in the wilderness. His
father taught him how to use an ax at an early age. With his mind, he began to explore the world
of books. The death of his mother Nancy Hanks Lincoln in 1818 and the death of his sister
Sarah in 1828 left emotional scars.
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| Twelve Stones Trail Stone from Biithplace Home |
LIVING
HISTORICAL FARM
The farm house and outbuildings
are not where the Lincoln’s lived but it is typical of farms that were in the
area at the time. From mid-April through
September the buildings are open and living history interpreters work the farm.
Originally the Nancy Hanks Memorial Park it became the Lincoln
Boyhood Home National Memorial on February 19, 1962. It became the first authorized unit of the
National Park System in the state of Indiana.
The Memorial Building itself is quite unique – useful - not just a monument like George Rogers Clark..
TRAILS
There are 3 short trails in the
park. The Trail of 12 Stones is a
pleasant walk from the farm to the Visitor Center. Each of the markers and features a stone from
a significant place in Lincoln’s life.
It is a great historical walk.
TUESDAY
June 2, 2015
WEATHER: 58 at 5:30
am; cloudy; never got past 65 and that was at 5:30pm. It’s June, when I got here Saturday I was
reminded of the August 1970 Fort Knox heat – not so much now . . . . .
TRAVEL: drove to
Radcliff and Fort Knox
Finished reading John Muir’s (1838-1914) “A Thousand Mile Walk to the Gulf”. The book is a reprint, originally published
in 1916 of John Muir’s journal of his 1867-1868 documenting his walk from
Indiana to Florida and a sail to Cuba.
His original plan was to walk the entire way through South America –
luckily typhoid, caught in Florida, brought him back from Cuba. He was lucky to have made it to Cuba without
being robbed or killed. His journal
describes some close calls.
The book documents his adventure
that started a lifetime of discovery. Muir shows the wilderness, as well as the towns and
people immediately after the Civil War.
Founder of the Sierra
Club, he was a ‘free spirit’. Easy to read, the writings are those of a
botanist and ardent conservationist.
Completed laundry, updated the
blog, went to a McDonald’s for WIFI, started reading “Perryville Under Fire” by Stuart W. Sanders. I may to drive to Perryville this week.
His first chapter is a very concise description of the battle October 8,
1862.
The drive to McDonalds for WIFI was fruitless – NO GO; no phone service either’ drove
to the IHG Inn at Fort Knox for
WIFI – NO
GO; no phone service in the building but I did connect
my phone to the IHG WIFI. This place
is barren. I’ve been told that VERIZON
should work – huh – ATT will not. At any
rate service is non-existent.
Also started reading Bill
Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods:
Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail” (1998). I purchased the book in the Smokies. The critics
were correct . . . after only two chapters I did find myself “laugh out loud”. Bryson writes as one critic said “with tenderness, humor and an awakening
environmental consciousness”. This
should be a good read.
WEDNESDAY June 3, 2015
WEATHER: 58 degrees
at 5:30 am, cloudy, stayed cloudy all day high of 67.
TRAVEL: a little of
60 miles one way to Mammoth Cave and back.
219 MAMMOTH CAVE National Park, Mammoth Cave, KY
This was probably my 6th visit to Mammoth Cave. The 1st was in
February 1972 took the Historic
Tour; the 2nd was in the early 1980’s, the 3rd was in
the summer of 1989 - probably was the Historic
Tour but thought this was a 4 hour walk complete with a
cafeteria underground; the 4th in 2003 April and the 5th in late April 2009 involved tours
of Domes and
Dripstones and what is now called the Star Chamber by lantern light. The Mammoth Cave Discovery tour is a shortened version of the Historic Tour.
The park service offers 9
different tours . I’ve taken them all
except the Trog Tour for kids only and
the what I imagine crawl on your knew and get muddy
and wet Introduction to
Caving and Wild
Cave Tour – been there done that at Eagle Cave in Wisconsin – no need to do it again.
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| Traditional Entrance |
Today I took the short Frozen Niagara Tour which is the end of the Domes
and Dripstones tour.
The Visitor Center is new since 2009. A 100%
improvement over the old Visitor Center.
Good exhibits – some videos – a number of gift shops. There is camping at Mammoth Cave National Park, a store on site, a hotel and cabin for rent. There are plenty of walking trails and some
bike trails. If you visit plan a day and
I suggest the Historic
Tour (dry cave) and the Domes and Dripstones Tour (wet
cave). The Star Chamber Tour lets you see the cave the way early explorers and tourists saw it by
lantern light – this is an evening tour now – it was different when I took it.
Limestone underlies the Mammoth Cave region. As rainwater infiltrates the soil, it picks up small amounts of carbon dioxide gas. Carbon dioxide reacts with the water to create a weak carbonic acid, making the groundwater mildly acidic. Like most major caves, Mammoth Cave was formed by the slow dissolution of limestone by groundwater.
Eroded limestone landscapes –
called Karst topography – are typified by the Mammoth Cave are. Sediments of a shallow sea covered this
region 350 million years ago formed the
limestone, as highly soluble layers over a 70 million year period.
Over time, as groundwater
dissolved the limestone, it forms underground streams. These streams converge, as surface streams do
and created Mammoth Cave’s underground rivers. The Green River is the regions master stream.
Cave streams responded creating younger and lower routes and abandoning
older and higher channels. At depths of
450’ cave streams are still forming passages.
Mammoth
Cave is the largest cave system in the world. There are currently over 400 miles of mapped
passageways. Experts believe this is
only 1/3 of what may still be discovered.
Most caves have an end. With Mammoth Cave there is no end in sight.
I finished reading “Perryville – Under Fire”. I hope to visit Perryville tomorrow.
Reading Bill Bryson’s “ A Walk
in the Woods: Rediscovering America’s Appalachian Trail” is a
hoot. I do find myself laughing out loud
as I read. It reminds me a little of “Confederates in the Attic” but
Byrson’s journey is more humorous.
I have completed a visit to all
of the sites in the Southeast
Region of the National
Park Service:
ALABAMA
Natchez Trace NST 6 MAY 15
Natchez Trace NST 6 MAY 15
Horseshoe
Bend NMP 6 MAR 15
Natchez Trace Parkway (MS &TN) 6 MAY 15
Natchez Trace Parkway (MS &TN) 6 MAY 15
Little
River Canyon N PRES 14 MAY 15
Tupelo NB 6 MAY 15
Tupelo NB 6 MAY 15
Russell
Cave NM 14
MAY 15
Vicksburg NMP 8 APR 15
Vicksburg NMP 8 APR 15
Tuskegee
Airmen NHS 6 MAR 15
Tuskegee
Institute NHS 6
MAR 15
NORTH CAROLINA
NORTH CAROLINA
Blue Ridge Parkway 28
OCT 14
FLORIDA
Cape Hatteras NS 19 NOV 14
Cape Hatteras NS 19 NOV 14
Big
Cypress N PRES 20
FEB 15
Cape Lookout NS 24 NOV 14
Biscayne NP 22 JAN 15
Carl Sandburg NHS 30 OCT 14
Cape Lookout NS 24 NOV 14
Biscayne NP 22 JAN 15
Carl Sandburg NHS 30 OCT 14
Canaveral
NS 16
JAN 15
Fort Raleigh NHS 19 NOV 14
Fort Raleigh NHS 19 NOV 14
Castillo
San Marcos NM 9 DEC 14
Guilford Courthouse NMP 31 OCT 14
Guilford Courthouse NMP 31 OCT 14
De Soto
N MEM 23
FEB 15
Moore’s Creek NB 23 NOV 14
Moore’s Creek NB 23 NOV 14
Dry
Tortugas NP 18
FEB 15
Wright Brothers N MEM 18 NOV 14
Wright Brothers N MEM 18 NOV 14
Everglades
NP 21
FEB 15
Fort
Caroline N MEM 8 DEC
14
Fort Matanzas NM 9 DEC 15
Gulf Islands NS 3 MAR 15
Fort Matanzas NM 9 DEC 15
Gulf Islands NS 3 MAR 15
Timucuan
E & H PRES 8 DEC
14
SOUTH CAROLINA
GEORGIA
Andersonville
NHS 10 MAR 15
Charles Pickney NHS 1 DEC 14
Congaree NP 1 DEC 14
Charles Pickney NHS 1 DEC 14
Congaree NP 1 DEC 14
Chattahoochee
River NRA 13 MAY 15
Cowpens NB 30 OCT 14
Cowpens NB 30 OCT 14
Chickamauga
& Chattanooga NMP 12 MAY 15
Fort Sumter NM 1 DEC 14
Fort Sumter NM 1 DEC 14
Cumberland
Island NS 7 DEC 14
Kings Mountain NMP 29 OCT 14
Kings Mountain NMP 29 OCT 14
Fort
Frederica NM 8 DEC 14
Ninety Six NHS 3 DEC 14
Ninety Six NHS 3 DEC 14
Fort
Pulaski NM 6
DEC 14
Jimmy
Carter NHS 9
MAR 15
TENNESSEE
TENNESSEE
Kennesaw
Mountain NBP 13 MAY 15
Andrew Johnson NHS 21 MAY 15
Andrew Johnson NHS 21 MAY 15
Martin
Luther King Jr NHS 23 SEP 14
Big South Fork NRRA 19 MAY 15
Big South Fork NRRA 19 MAY 15
Ocmulgee
NM 12
MAR 15
Fort Donelson NB 18 APR 14
Fort Donelson NB 18 APR 14
Great
Smoky Mountains NP 18-22 MAY 15
KENTUCKY
Obed WSR 19 MAY 15
Obed WSR 19 MAY 15
Abraham
Lincoln Birthplace NHP 31 MAY 15
Shiloh NMP 4 MAY 15
Shiloh NMP 4 MAY 15
Cumberland
Gap NHP 24 MAY 15
Stones River NB 1 MAY 15
Stones River NB 1 MAY 15
Mammoth
Cave NP 3 JUN 15
PUERTO RICO
San Juan NHS 3 FEB 15 VIRGIN ISLANDS
San Juan NHS 3 FEB 15 VIRGIN ISLANDS
Buck Island Reef NM 4 FEB 15
Christiansted NHS 30 JAN 15
MISSISSIPPI
Christiansted NHS 30 JAN 15
Salt River Bay NHP & E PRES 4 FEB 15
Virgin Islands NP 10 FEB 15
Virgin Islands Coral Reef NM 10 FEB 15MISSISSIPPI
Brices
Crossroads NBS 6 MAY 15
Natchez
NHP 16
APR 15
BOTTOM
LINE I’ve visited all but 3 of the NPS sites East of the
Mississippi. One is new (RI); one the other
did not have Visitor Centers (NJ). and Governor's Island in NYC was closed when I visited.
THURSDAY
June 4, 2015
WEATHER: I hope this
is the end of June Gloom - - - - 52
this morning but foggy – I could see the moon but no stars – the cool temp
could mean the sky is clear above the fog – should get to the 80’s today - - -
-
TRAVEL: a 70 mile
drive to Perryville – Loretto, KY was kind of on the way back to Camp Carlson
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| New Property Location of HP Bottom Barn |
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| Federal Position on Loomis Heights I forgot my camera when I visted Carnes' & Stanford's Confederate positions distant hills |
The park has seen improvement
since my first visit in 2003. The museum
is greatly improved, there have been at least two new videos of the battle
produced, and much land has been added.
This is possibly the best Civil War Battlefield to visit and it is not
part of the National Park
System.
I was close and had never visited
a Kentucky bourbon distillery so I headed for Maker’s Mark in Loretto, KY. At first I almost did not take the $9 tour
but am glad I did. The distillery is set
up for visitors – almost park-like. Buildings
are black with red trim (like the sealing wax on the bottles).
From what I remember it is corn
that makes bourbon – bourbon as opposed to whisky. Maker’s
Mark uses approximately 80% corn and some winter wheat –
no rye. The grain is rolled not
crushed. There is always some of an old
batch added to a new batch.
Maker’s
Mark is smooth - - - compared to other bourbon’s. It originally was T.W. Williams bourbon for over 4 generations. The brand and formula for Maker’s Mark was developed in 1953. It is a top shelf brand and this is a top
shelf tour.
Each label is cut by a person
operating a cutting machine – it is not automatic. Each bottle is hand dipped for the
distinctive red sealing wax. The
“tasting” consists of pre-poured flight of 4 snifters with samples for each
person over 21 on the tour – Maker’s
White – Maker’s
Mark – Maker’s
46 – Maker’s
Barrel Strength. The guide takes you through the tasting and
explains the qualities of each brand . . . a class act.
![]() |
| Distillation |
![]() |
| Threr's even a brand (green label & green wax) instant Mint Julip |
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| These ladies hand=dip the bottle all day |
KENTUCKY BOURBON TRAIL
There are 9 distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Yes, they
even have a Kentucky Bourbon Trail
Passport. Completion
of the trail gets you a free t-shirt and a certificate. Take a couple of days to do this one.
Evan
Williams – Lousiville, KY
Maker’s Mark – Loreeto, KY
Maker’s Mark – Loreeto, KY
Bulleit
– Louisville, KY
Woodford Reserve – Versaille, KY
Woodford Reserve – Versaille, KY
Jim
Beam – Clermont,
KY
Town Branch – Lexington, KY
Town Branch – Lexington, KY
Four
Roses – Lawrenceburg, KY
Wild Turkey – Lawrenceburg, KY
Wild Turkey – Lawrenceburg, KY
Heaven
Hill – Bardstown, KY
WEATHER: 56 at 5 am –
clear – got up to the mid 80’s mostly sunny
TRAVEL: Camp Carlson to Corydon, IN to Fort Knox to Camp Carlson
Read a few chapters of Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods”. It started off funny – now – just plodding along . . .
Read a few chapters of Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods”. It started off funny – now – just plodding along . . .
Drove
to Old
Capital Golf Club in Corydon, IN – a 30 mile drive. Reasonable cost $18 with cart. The course was in good shape – fast greens
and enough water. I shot a 52 with 2
lost balls and 23 putts. It took me 5
holes to settle in – it’s been almost a month since I played a round of golf.
SATURDAY June 4, 2015
WEATHER: 62 at 5:30
am; clear; should get to the mid 80’s
TRAVEL: only around
post and to Mass
Cleaned the Bear Cave of the
trailer; washed the front of the trailer trying to get the bugs off; laundry;
and washed the truck. Read some . . . .
Still unable to figure out how to tilt the awning.
Drove to IHG inn on base – Fort
Knox - hooked up to their WIFI around 3:15 – patience is a
virtue - updated the blog but lost all
entries for the 30 and 31st of May.
I’ll try to update it next week.
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| St. Christopher's Radcliff KY |
Originally, I thought a fast 9 holes at Fort Knox would follow mass but decided to
go to Applebee’s instead. Watched American
Pharaoh win the Belmont
Stakes and the TRIPLE
CROWN – I believe the 1st since 1978. He’ll have an easy life now – as he goes to
stud. He is a fast horse – going around
the track he walked as the lead horse had to trot,
SUNDAY
June 7, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 5:30 –
91 degrees when I got to Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area in Lin Creek MO –
about 35 miles and an hour drive from Fort Leonard Wood
TRAVEL: a long drive
– some 458 miles – longer than I thought but I did gain an hour going to
central time.
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| Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area |
![]() |
| LORA trailer site |
MONDAY June 8, 2015
WEATHER: thunderstorm
around midnight – about ½” of rain - 72 at 5 am – mid 80’s by 3 pm with few
clouds
TRAVEL: a 160 mile
one way trip to Van Buren, MO from LORA
The drive from LORA to Van Buren, MO is interesting. The first part of
the journey is a 20 mile two lane winding road up, down and through the hills
of Missouri – it’s 20 miles to the Richmond
and the closest gas station – no McDonald’s – no
Wal-Mart. The next 100 miles is two lane
winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri. The next 40 miles is four lane highway with a
65 mph speed limit – towns spaced every 20 miles or so. Rained most of the morning until about 1pm –
then cleared up and in the mid 80’s. I
made 4 stops in the
Ozark National
Scenic Riverway.
The Ozarks – so what was the draw here . . .
. well the Army Corps of
Engineers (ACOE) had plans to build a dam at Van
Buren, MO. It
would have put roads I drove and the places I visited today underwater – The
1960’s ACOE proposals captured the attention of the Congress.
In 1964 Congress authorized 134 miles of rivers as the first national scenic
river ways. If the Ozarks had not been saved there might have been gun play in ‘them der hills’ of
the Ozarks as ACOE tried to build a dam – believe me – a lot of folks take their hunting
grounds pretty seriously – and it had nothing to do with concealed carry.
![]() |
| Map at Park HQ in Van Buren, MO |
So it’s the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers and caves and springs that appear to gush from the ground that make the Ozark National Scenic Riverway special and unique. The springs really are gushers – I only visited two – they are amazing. I wish I had visited Blue Spring – 310 feet deep and a deep blue due to minerals dissolved in the water. Devils Well is another - sinkhole formed when a cavern roof containing a lake collapsed. The riverway is huge – at least 70 miles or narrow river corridor – with fast moving water – and little or no development..
![]() |
| Alley Springs Mill |
The first stop was Alley Springs Visitor Center. Cold , clear waters rise from deep within Alley Spring at an average daily flow of 81 million gallons. The gush through the mill dam was impressive. The red mill itself is also perfect for a picture. I walked a short trail around the spring pond and stopped to see the building that once houses a school.
The mill was constructed in
1894. Since the water supply from the
spring was constant it was the perfect place for a mill. Alley was home, farm and school for the people who lived there 100 years
ago.
There is camping here and a
general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites and canoe rental.
The ranger suggested a drive to
this place – it was on the way to Van Buren.
PARK
HEADQUARTERS – Watercress Park – Van Buren, MO
No film – it is an admin HQ but a
nice building.
BIG
SPRING
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| Big Spring - clear the color is amazing |
![]() |
| Big Spring close up view - it looks and sounds like a boil |
TUESDAY June 9, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 5:30 –
if you believe thermometers it was 96 in Fort Scott, KS at 1 pm. Staff at the Park said summer isn’t here
until we get our first 3 digit day. Well
– today it was close.
TRAVEL: a 130 mile 2
½ hour one way drive west to Fort Scott, KS and back
A visit to this site is a 3 hour
history lesson. You learn about the Forts that were built along the western frontier to protect the Indians and
their land, how that peace was broken by white settlers moving west – in the
name of “manifest destiny” – something the Indians could not undertand, the Mexican War, the Santa Fe Trail, “Bleeding Kansas” and
the Kansas-Nebraska Act, the Civil War and the coming of the railroads . . . . and of course the soldiers that
lived here at Fort
Scott. There is a
lot of history here.
Fort
Scott is the name of the town and the buildings of the original
Fort Scott were reconstructed/renovated after it became a National Historic Site in 1978.There was one shed with 3 cannon in it and to tell you the truth I was confused. Iron cannon – 6 lb field guns that were larger than a 12 lb mountain howitzer. I had to ask the ranger to sort it all out. The captions under the photos may tell the story. Of course, and not unusual for the NPS - don’t believe all you read . . . some of what the NPS publishes is in error. Yes, really a government agency not telling the truth. Not the first or the last. Just be carefull.
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| Another 6 lb Field Gun - iron - note handles per the ranger |
After the tour of the Fort and a discussion with the ranger, I asked if there was someplace to eat
close by. He provided 5 restaurants
within a block or two walk. I had a
Reuben sandwich and a beer at Sharkey’s.
WEDNESDAY
June 10, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 4:15
am – got up to the 90’s again today – a slight shower coming back from Diamond
cooled things down for about 30 minutes
TRAVEL: a southwest
drive of 110 miles (2 ¼ hours) to WEATHER: 68 at 5:30 – 91 degrees when I got to Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area in Lin Creek MO – about 35 miles and an hour drive from Fort Leonard Wood
Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area (LORA) is part of Fort Leonard Wood but about 35 miles and 1 hour from the base. A nice place – concrete pull through pads, full hookups – on the water with rental facilities – lots of boat slips for rent. I’m in a pull through site – very level - but the sites are close together – like most standard RV parks. NO WIFI but there is phone service. I’ll endure – the price is right – it should be $115 for 10 nights. Nice bathhouse – smaller and not as new as Camp Carlson but the laundry is free.
MONDAY June 8, 2015
So it’s the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers and caves and springs that appear to gush from the ground that make the Ozark National Scenic Riverway special and unique. The springs really are gushers – I only visited two – they are amazing. I wish I had visited Blue Spring – 310 feet deep and a deep blue due to minerals dissolved in the water. Devils Well is another - sinkhole formed when a cavern roof containing a lake collapsed. The riverway is huge – at least 70 miles or narrow river corridor – with fast moving water – and little or no development..
The first stop was Alley Springs Visitor Center. Cold , clear waters rise from deep within Alley Spring at an average daily flow of 81 million gallons. The gush through the mill dam was impressive. The red mill itself is also perfect for a picture. I walked a short trail around the spring pond and stopped to see the building that once houses a school.
This was the gusher – the water clear – green – blue – an aquamarine hue. Worth the vist just to see the water. Big Spring is the largest spring in Missouri and one of the largest in the world with an average daily flow of 286 million gallons per day. No small stream is formed by this spring – it starts as a river.
There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites.
Fort Scott is the name of the town and the buildings of the original Fort Scott were reconstructed/renovated after it became a National Historic Site in 1978.
There was one shed with 3 cannon in it and to tell you the truth I was confused. Iron cannon – 6 lb field guns that were larger than a 12 lb mountain howitzer. I had to ask the ranger to sort it all out. The captions under the photos may tell the story. Of course, and not unusual for the NPS - don’t believe all you read . . . some of what the NPS publishes is in error. Yes, really a government agency not telling the truth. Not the first or the last. Just be carefull.
TRAVEL: a long drive – some 458 miles – longer than I thought but I did gain an hour going to central time.
![]() |
| Lake of the Ozarks Recreation Area |
![]() |
| LORA trailer site |
MONDAY June 8, 2015
WEATHER: thunderstorm around midnight – about ½” of rain - 72 at 5 am – mid 80’s by 3 pm with few clouds
TRAVEL: a 160 mile one way trip to Van Buren, MO from LORA
The drive from LORA to Van Buren, MO is interesting. The first part of the journey is a 20 mile two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri – it’s 20 miles to the Richmond and the closest gas station – no McDonald’s – no Wal-Mart. The next 100 miles is two lane winding road up, down and through the hills of Missouri. The next 40 miles is four lane highway with a 65 mph speed limit – towns spaced every 20 miles or so. Rained most of the morning until about 1pm – then cleared up and in the mid 80’s. I made 4 stops in the Ozark National Scenic Riverway.
The Ozarks – so what was the draw here . . . . well the Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE) had plans to build a dam at Van Buren, MO. It would have put roads I drove and the places I visited today underwater – The 1960’s ACOE proposals captured the attention of the Congress. In 1964 Congress authorized 134 miles of rivers as the first national scenic river ways. If the Ozarks had not been saved there might have been gun play in ‘them der hills’ of the Ozarks as ACOE tried to build a dam – believe me – a lot of folks take their hunting grounds pretty seriously – and it had nothing to do with concealed carry.
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| Map at Park HQ in Van Buren, MO |
So it’s the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers and caves and springs that appear to gush from the ground that make the Ozark National Scenic Riverway special and unique. The springs really are gushers – I only visited two – they are amazing. I wish I had visited Blue Spring – 310 feet deep and a deep blue due to minerals dissolved in the water. Devils Well is another - sinkhole formed when a cavern roof containing a lake collapsed. The riverway is huge – at least 70 miles or narrow river corridor – with fast moving water – and little or no development..
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| Alley Springs Mill |
The first stop was Alley Springs Visitor Center. Cold , clear waters rise from deep within Alley Spring at an average daily flow of 81 million gallons. The gush through the mill dam was impressive. The red mill itself is also perfect for a picture. I walked a short trail around the spring pond and stopped to see the building that once houses a school.
The mill was constructed in 1894. Since the water supply from the spring was constant it was the perfect place for a mill. Alley was home, farm and school for the people who lived there 100 years ago.
There is camping here and a general store and showers, hiking trails and electric sites and canoe rental.
The ranger suggested a drive to this place – it was on the way to Van Buren.
PARK HEADQUARTERS – Watercress Park – Van Buren, MO
No film – it is an admin HQ but a nice building.
BIG SPRING
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| Big Spring - clear the color is amazing |
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| Big Spring close up view - it looks and sounds like a boil |
TUESDAY June 9, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 5:30 – if you believe thermometers it was 96 in Fort Scott, KS at 1 pm. Staff at the Park said summer isn’t here until we get our first 3 digit day. Well – today it was close.
TRAVEL: a 130 mile 2 ½ hour one way drive west to Fort Scott, KS and back
A visit to this site is a 3 hour history lesson. You learn about the Forts that were built along the western frontier to protect the Indians and their land, how that peace was broken by white settlers moving west – in the name of “manifest destiny” – something the Indians could not undertand, the Mexican War, the Santa Fe Trail, “Bleeding Kansas” and the Kansas-Nebraska Act, the Civil War and the coming of the railroads . . . . and of course the soldiers that lived here at Fort Scott. There is a lot of history here.
Fort Scott is the name of the town and the buildings of the original Fort Scott were reconstructed/renovated after it became a National Historic Site in 1978.
When Fort Scott was established in 1842 the US was still young and confined largely to the area east of the Mississippi. Yet within a few years, Fort Scott’s soldiers became involved in events that lead to tremendous spurts of growth and expansion.
As the nation developed tensions over slavery led to the conflict & turmoil of “Bleeding Kansas” and the Civil War. Eventually, the US emerged as a transcontinental nation.
The current Visitor Center was once the Fort’s Hospital. There is a small gift shop. The rangers were very helpful. Next door the Infantry Barracks with a very good 35 minute film that tells the story and history of Fort Scott. As you move around the quadrangle you visit the Dragoon Stables, the Dragoon Barracks, Post Headquarters, Officers Quarters, the Quartermaster Compound and the Guardhouse. Each building has displays and exhibits.
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| 12 lb Mountain Howitzer per the ranger I'm still not sure Brass |
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| 6 lb Field Gun per the ranger still not sure Made of Iron Model 1841 not auhemtic they were brass |
There was one shed with 3 cannon in it and to tell you the truth I was confused. Iron cannon – 6 lb field guns that were larger than a 12 lb mountain howitzer. I had to ask the ranger to sort it all out. The captions under the photos may tell the story. Of course, and not unusual for the NPS - don’t believe all you read . . . some of what the NPS publishes is in error. Yes, really a government agency not telling the truth. Not the first or the last. Just be carefull.
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| Another 6 lb Field Gun - iron - note handles per the ranger |
After the tour of the Fort and a discussion with the ranger, I asked if there was someplace to eat close by. He provided 5 restaurants within a block or two walk. I had a Reuben sandwich and a beer at Sharkey’s.
WEDNESDAY June 10, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 4:15 am – got up to the 90’s again today – a slight shower coming back from Diamond cooled things down for about 30 minutes
TRAVEL: a southwest drive of 110 miles (2 ¼ hours) to Repulic, MO then Diamond, MO 55miles west (about 50 minutes) and then back past Republic to Branson, MO
Republic, MO then Diamond, MO 55miles west
(about 50 minutes) and then back past Republic to Branson, MO
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| Visitor Center |
The Battle of Wilson’s Creek in 1861 opened the Civil War in Missouri. For the next 3 ½ years, the state saw fierce
fighting, mostly guerilla warfare, with band of mounted raiders destroying anything military or
civilian that could aid the enemy.
The Battle of Wilson’s Creek (called Oak
Hills by the CSA) was
fought southwest of Springfield, MO on August 10, 1861.
fought southwest of Springfield, MO on August 10, 1861.
The allegiance of Missouri was
considered critical to the Federal government.
Missouri like Kentucky was a slave state. Most Missourians wanted neutrality but some
including Governor Claiborne
F. Jackson, held southern sympathies. Jackson ordered state militia units to muster
and Camp Jackson outside St. Louis and prepare to seize the US arsenal.
CPT Nathanial Lyon, arsenal commander, learned of
Jackson’s intentions and moved most of the weapons to
Illinois. In May, Lyons marched 7,000 men to Camp
Jackson to forced
its surrender. Jackson retreated and marched southwest and Lyon occupied Jefferson City, the state capital.
Meanwhile, Missouri State Guard Commander MG Sterling Price had been drilling 5,000 soldiers southwest of Springfield. By the end of July, troops under the command
of BG Ben McCulloch and BG Nicholas Bart
Pierce brought the Confederate strength to 12,000.
Lyon
now promoted to BG, by July 13 had 5,200 Federal
troops camped near Springfield.
McCulloch, Pierce and Price were
camped at Wilson Creek and had decided to attack Lyon.
Lyon thinking surprise would give him the advantage decided to attack a
superior force.. He left 1,000 soldiers
to guard supplies at Springfield. On the night of August 9 he
moved. His plan called for 1,200 men
under COL Franz Sigel to swing wide to the south, flanking the Confederate right, as Lyon’s force struck from the north.
The battle raged on Bloody Hill for five hours with control of the hill changing with each attack and
counterattack. Sigel’s flanking movement failed – he
and his troops fled back to Springfield.
BG Lyon was KIA as he led a charge of the 2nd
Kansas against COL Richard
Wainwright’s Missourians.
Command of the Federal forces passed to MAJ Samuel Sturgis and with ammunition nearly exhausted by 11 am ordered a withdrawal. The Confederate forces did not pursue. Lyon lost the battle but achieved his
goal. Missouri stayed in the Union.
I’m glad I read “Campaign
for Wilson Creek: The Fight for Missouri Begins” by Jeffrey L. Patrick. The non-visit to the battlefield site was not
enlightening.
After Wilson’s Creek Confederate MG Sterling
Price led his Missouri
State Guard to capture the Union garrison at Lexington, MO. He stayed in Missouri until
driven to Arkansas in early 1862. The
Union victory at the Battle
of Pea Ridge in March 1862 marked a setback for western
Confederate military forces.
In September, 1864 Sterling Price returned to Missouri with 12,000 men. By the time his
campaign ended, he had marched nearly 1,500 miles, fought 43 battles of
skirmishes, and destroyed over $10 million in property. Yet, the campaign ended is disaster. At the Battle
of Westport
on October 23, the largest battle west of the
Mississippi, Price was defeated and retreated south.
By the end of the Civil War, Missouri had seen so many battles and skirmishes that it would rank as the 3rd
most fought-over-state in the nation.
BUT THE DAY WAS NOT A LOSS – I headed west for a
visit to George Washington Carver National Monument – a planned visit – just a
day early. This was rewarding.
223 GEORGE WASHINGTON CARVER NATIONAL MONUMENT, 5646
Carver Rd, Diamond, MO,
This was a 55 mile drive – about 50
minutes – mostly I-44 and it exceeded my expectations. When I visited Tuskegee – founded by Booker T. Washington – it seemed to me that the Institute had more to do with Carver than Booker T. Washington.
He is known – remembered – as the
“peanut man” but he was so much
more. I really think this man was a
genius – born a slave in 1864 - he had a thirst for knowledge and set out to
get it.
He was an artist, a scientist, a botanist,
a writer . . . . Carver had a good way of saying things.
His quotes, to me, mean more than those of Martin Luther King. Above all George Washington Carver was a simple and humble man who only wanted to serve his people.
The monument was dedicated in
1943. The Visitor Center is a great place to visit. There is a fine 28 minute film about Carver and his life. The museum is worth
30-35 minutes of time to read about his life and achievements. There is level with interactive exhibits for
kids, a classroom, and a lab classroom that many high school science teachers
would really like to have. Additionally,
there is a ¾+ mile trail through the woods that Carver enjoyed studying nature
and a reconstructed Moses
Carver farm house. The
grounds are very pleasant – a good place for a picnic lunch. The walk in the woods is full of birds
singing and a spring fed stream running.
Plan at least 2 hours to visit this place.
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| Statue of the Boy Carver on the trail |
George
Washington Carver was born a slave on the Moses
and Susan Carver farm about 1864. He and
his mother were kidnapped by outlaws when he was an infant. They were relocated to Arkansas. George was later located in Arkansas and returned to the Carver farm. His mother was never found. He never knew who his father was. Growing up he was a frail boy and that freed
him from many chores – giving him time to explore. He acquired flowers and put them in a garden
– given the nickname “Plant Doctor.” He left the farm in 1873 in a search for education
through Missouri, Kansas and finally Iowa.
Carver was motivated by his love
for all creation – all creation was a window of God and a mouthpiece through
which the Great Creator spoke. To Carver, a successful life was one of service through helping others.
Eight Cardinal Virtues:
In an
letter of thanks to the Senior Class at Tuskegee 1922 (they had given him a
fountain pen as a
Christmas gift) Carver wrote . . . .
Christmas gift) Carver wrote . . . .
“This gift, like all the others, is characterized by
simplicity and thoughtfulness, which I hope each member will make the slogan of
their lives.
. . . will rise
to the full height of your possibilities, which means possession of these eight
cardinal virtues which constitutes a lady or a gentleman.
1st Be clean inside and outside.
2nd Who neither looks up to the rich or
down on the pooer.
3rd Who loses, if need be, without
squealing.
4th Who wins without bragging.
5th Who is always considerate of women,
children and old people.
6th Who is to brave to lie.
7th Who is too generous to cheat.
8th Who takes his share of the world and
lets other people have theirs.
He was asked to join the staff at
Tuskegee by Booker T. Washington in 1896. His peanut work began
around 1903, and was aimed at freeing African American farmers in the south
from the tyranny of King Cotton. He
convinced southern farmers to grow soil-enriching crops as soybeans and
peanuts.
In 1921 he gained public
attention with testimony before a US Congress House Committee debating the
peanut tariff bill. His work and encyclopedic
knowledge of plant properties impressed Thomas
Edison and Henry
Ford. Carver died at Tuskegee on January 5, 1943. The monument was
the first park to honor an African American scientist, educator and
humanitarian.
I’ve never been to Branson and heard so much about it – like Gatlinburg – so instead of going for a 7 mile walk in 90 degree
weather at the Pea
Ridge Battlefield which I had visited about 6
weeks ago – I decided to go to Branson and stay overnight – see a show – and continue on
to the George Washington Carver National Historic Site near Joplin, MO on the MO/KS border then return to LORA but I visited Carver
first due to the literal closing of Wilson’s Creek Battlefield where I had planned to walk the 5+ mile trail..
The Holiday Inn Express has WIFI. I decided
to get a ticket to an Eagles
Tribute band . . . . someone I know has a passion for the Eagles. So far –
Branson – I don’t see the draw.
I walked a little over 1 ½ miles
to the theatre. It wasn’t large – maybe 12
uneven rows – smaller than the REP
– more space between seats – no alcohol served – I got
3rd row 2nd seat from the center. The band was good - - - - - I enjoyed the
harmonies which were almost like the Eagles – the guitar work was pretty much spot on. In tribute to Joe Walsh they did “Walk Away” – James
Gang – first time I ever heard that song live – it
was done exceptionally well. Two sets -
opened with “Hotel California” –
closed with “Life in the Fast Lane”
and The group was sincere – they mingled
with the crowd during intermission and had a reception line setup up as
everyone left the theater. I was
impressed. Cost was a well spent $40 for
the show.
But Branson – like Gatlinburg,
has a Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, a Hollywood Wax Museum, an Aquarium, even Dolly Parton’s Dixie Stampede dinner
show, and of course the Titanic. Here at
Branson “Hee Haw” still exists – it’s still the late 50’s early 60’s with
family oriented shows – gospel, comedy, the Osmonds, country, the Hagoods, a
sprinkling of shops – plenty of restaurants and hotels, lot of tribute groups –
you can find Elvis, John Denver, Doo Wop, Paul Anka, did I say Elvis . . .
. . and of course more glitter and
country than today’s country – no Minnie Pearl – guess she belongs to Nashville. The
Andy Williams Theatre is run by the Osmonds – of course they do the Christmas
show in between you can see magic shows, Mel Tellis, Colin Raye, and other family groups. There must be a dam somewhere near – because there
is a lake and you can ride the “ducks.”
No gambling – few bars - - - - I prefer Gatlinburg but Branson has more
parking- less crowded..
THURSDAY
June 11, 2015
WEATHER: warm – high
in the 90’s
TRAVEL: Branson to
Ozark HD in Lebanon, MO to Fort Leonard Wood to LORA
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| Lebanon, MO |
Updated BLOG and readjusted the
schedule for the next two week.
Readjusted - due to distances and desire to golf in KS (Ft. Riley) and
IA, also due to the fact that I cannot get into the Durand Campground until
Friday due to it being full until then.
Stopped at A HD dealer in
Lebanon, MO – of course I bought something here.
Tried the Chevy Dealer in Lebanon
to get an oil change but he was unable to fit me in. Goodbye.
Drove to Fort Leonard Wood. My first
time here. The golf course is exactly 53
miles from LORA – that’s a long drive. Leonard Wood, like most army bases goes in circles – easy to get
confused – I did - until you get a feel
for the layout. Looks like this is home
to Support Services – Engineers, MPs and Chemical. I did see
DRILL SGTS – it could be a OSUT site. ![]() |
| Piney Valley GC #9 view to the Clubhouse |
Staff here at LORA cut the grass around the trailer and in the process
had unknowlingly disconnected the power – therefore the refrigerator went into
auto mode and used all the propane. OK,
I haven’t filled a 20 gallon tank since October. Now I have to find a propane dealer and a
Chevy dealer and a McDonald’s with WIFI and power outlets.
FRIDAY
June 12, 2015
WEATHER: 74 5:30 am –
not much of a cool down - - - -
TRAVEL:
Camdenton and found Osage Beach -
civilization
I finished reading short pamphlet
books about Fort
Scott and Fort Larned. Refilled
both propane tanks in Camdenton. Found a
McDonalds with WIFI and a power outlet in Osage Beach, MO. Changed my drive schedule for the next 10 days
based on distances to travel. Drove back
to the Chevy dealer in Camdenton – changed the oil and rotated the tires.
SATURDAY
- TUESDAY June 13-16, 2015
WEATHER: 68 at 5:30 –
TRAVEL: about 66 miles to Columbia Jefferson City
Memorial Airport (believe me Oshkosh has a larger airport and Jefferson City is
the capital of Missouri)
Fly Home for a family reunion
with an old and very dear friend and a visit to the dentist and urologist – oh
my . . . . and then back to Missouri.
However today was a LOST
DAY. Up at 2:15 am; at 3 am I got a call
from American
Airlines indicating that the flight has been delayed until
10:56 am (it was scheduled for 5:05 am).
Arrived at Columbia
Jefferson City Airport at 4:15 ( I’ve seen bigger airports
in the Virgin Islands); found a McDonald’s for WIFI (apparently 3 people use it
as a place to sleep); a call to American
Airlines indicates a 1 ¼ to 1 ¾ hour wait time or you can
have someone call – won’t lose your place in line – system would not accept my
cell phone # - goodbye); called United
Airlines (obviously I will not make my 8:08 am connecting flight
from Chicago to Milwaukee); $200 charge to change the ticket (it cost $188.20)
or $75 to get a flight at 4:36 pm plus another $225 because of the change in
price or wait until after 8 pm for same price plus $75 to change same day ticket
– no sympathy - just like the dentist cancellation over 6 weeks ago – a disaster
– I don’t have a good feeling about seeing the dentist on Monday. I’ll take a bus from Chicago or a train of a
cab – less expensive than the change in flight already lost another $188.20 – just
a bad bet.
The weekend was rewarding and
eventful.
The trip back from MKE to ORD
also had its challenges. Because I did
not make the 8:08 am flight from Chicago to Milwaukee, UA cancelled the ticket. However, after what could have been a
disaster UA received a letter of thanks from me. BOTTOM LINE: There was a caring and
understanding agent at the gate in Milwaukee.
WEDNESDAY
–SUNDAY June 14 - 26, 2015
WEATHER: Rain squalls
in MO, Clouds in IL pleasant in WI
TRAVEL: LORA to Home
CHANGE IN PLANS. I’ll resume travels with a visit to the Pipestone National Monument area in MN on June 28. Brown
vs Board of Education, Harry S. Truman home and library, Tallgrass Prairie, Nicodemus,
Homestead, Eisenhower library and Fort Larned
will be added to the end of the trip next year.,
June
26, - September, 2015–
Long delay - - - - - - see you in
September – hopefully – not sure in which state I will take up the travels.




















































