WEDNESDAY January 14, 2015

WEATHER: -14 in Burlington at 5am - 50 and cloudy in Kings Bay FL

TRAVEL: Flight from MKE-ATL-JAX uneventful. Truck and trailer in good condition. Set up trailer at Kings Bay Sub Base by 5:30 pm.

THURSDAY January 15, 2015

WEATHER: low of 42 – got up to 50 – cloudy started to rain around 2:30 pm

TRAVEL: Left Kings Bay around 1145 – arrived at Fisherman’s Cove RV Park around 3:30. Raining 50 degrees.

Fisherman’s Cove is a RV Park, Marina and small golf course with access to Lake Harris. It is not a KOA or a Good Sam member. Over 200 numbered lots – most with concrete pads. I’m on the side of a sandy hill with an elevated grass pad – soft sand – and almost level. NO WIFI. Electric hookups are old but usable. Same issue with the water hookup as I had at West Point – it leaks. Facilities – lacking – nice Clubhouse – but only 2 shower stalls – cleanliness – lacking – maybe once a week cleaning.

Patience is a virtue. Today I wasn't as patient as I should have been.

FRIDAY January 16, 2015

WEATHER: 52 in the trailer at 5 am, cloudy, cleared up by 11am , windy and got up to 60 – the sun was warm

TRAVEL: About a 2 ¼ hour drive – 75 one way miles to Titusville and Canaveral.

160 CANAVERAL NATIONAL SEAHSORE – Titusville, FL

The Park HQ has an address of - don’t bother – there are no exhibits – the door is locked - you have to ring a bell to get in – you meet a receptionist – no rangers – those offices are further back – hidden . . . .

Drive across the bridge to Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center. Here you can view a 20 minute film on the history of the island – and it’s association with the wildlife refuge and NASA; view some small exhibits and a good gift shop. There is a ½ mile long boardwalk trail here.

Bird watching or ‘birding’ appears to be the draw at Canaveral National Seashore and the Merritt Island Wildlife Refuge. These properties are adjacent to and north of the Kennedy Space Center.

The pink Roseate Spoonbill
is a protected species

Playalinda Beach

There are 12 beach parking areas along Playalinda Beach – then the road ends. There are no refreshments, no water, chemical toilets. Playalinda Beach is just north of Launch Complex 39B and 39A of the Kennedy Space Center.

There is a 1 ½ lane 2 way dirt road called Bio Lab that runs between Highway 402 and the Kennedy Parkway – about 8 miles if I remember right – this is a well worth it drive – plenty of birds.

Great Egret
along Black Point

This Black Vulture
didn't want to get out of the way

Also worth the drive is the Black Point Wildllife Drive – plenty of birding but this one has a trail guide.

A dirt road – one way – much better condition than Bio Lab. There is an ‘on you honor’ charge to drive this road.

You can gain entrance to Apollo Beach to the north by accessing Highway A1A from Highway 44. I did not visit this portion of Canaveral National Seashore.

SATURDAY January 17, 2015

WEATHER: again 52 in the trailer at 5 am, low 40’s outside – clear – probably got up to 70.

TRAVEL: Boat ride on Lake Harris through the Dead River to Lake through the Dora Canal and Lake Dora to the waterfront of Tavares.

Lunch with relatives at a lakeside restaurant on Lake Dora in Tavares.

On the Dora Canal

Viewed “American Sniper.” I read the book several years ago – the movie was done well – it’s up for 6 Academy Awards. Not as much time spent on SEAL training as the book – a lot of time spent on Chris Kyle’s relationship with his wife/family – how the war changed him – and good scenes on the war in Iraq - Fallujah and SADR City. Probably over 2 hours in length but it moves fast.

SUNDAY January 18, 2015

WEATHER: again 52 in the trailer at 5 am, low 40’s outside – partly cloudy..

TRAVEL: Boat

0730 mass at St. Mary’s Lady of the Lakes – this is the first church I’ve attended ever - where the congregation is told before the start of mass to be quiet and hold their conversations (talking) until out of the church – reminded me of pre-Vatican II – I was taught that it was a sin to talk in church – it was a regular part of examination of conscience before Penance – other than that a priest of African background gave a good homily

PACKERS 22 versus SEAHAWKS 28 – a loss by the PACK in OT – they missed at least 3 opportunities to score a TD when within 10 yards of the goal line but could not go over and had to settle for 3 points between the goal posts. What happened to the ‘best football team in America?” Seahawk luck? Packer defense played well – - - -

MONDAY January 19, 2015

WEATHER: high of 60 sunny

TRAVEL: Like Friday about a 2 hour drive from Fisherman’s Cover to Titusville. I took the toll roads back – doesn’t seem to save time – about the same distance and costs $4.25 – that’s worth 38 miles at today’s prices.

TODAY IS MARTIN LUTHER KING DAY – A National Holiday – check out Martin Luther King Jr. visited September 23, 2014 in Atlanta and the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial visited September 29, 2014 in Washington, DC.

KENNEDY SPACE CENTER – Titusville, FL

Bring your wallet - $10 parking; $50 entry – but I spent 8 hours here on a day that was not crowded – and almost saw everything. I closed at 6pm this is definitely a full day trip.

To begin with – the exhibits and what happened here are almost a story of my life – i.e. I’ve lived and grew up in the “Space Age”

Space News just isn’t as important as it used to be:

1957 The Russians put the 1^st satellite (called “sputnik”) in space

1961 The Russians put the 1^st man in space – Yuri Gagarin

1961 Alan Shepherd is the 1^st American in space as part of Project Mercury

1961 JFK sets a goal to put a man on the moon before the end of the decade

“I believe this nation should commit itself to achieving the goal, before this decade is out, of landing a man on the Moon and returning him safely to Earth. No single space project in this period will be more impressive to mankind, or more important in the long-range exploration of space; and none will be so difficult or expensive to accomplish."
John F. Kennedy , Special Joint Session of Congress, May 25, 1961

1965 Project Gemini – Virgil Grissom and John Young share a Gemini capsule and orbit the earth 3 times

1969 Apollo XI – the lunar module lands on the moon

Apollo XII – a near disaster

1981 Space Shuttle Columbia – a reusable spacecraft is launched

1986 Space Shuttle Challenger tragedy – explodes shortly after liftoff

2002 Space Shuttle Columbia tragedy - burns up on reentry Feb 1

2011 Space Shuttle Atlantis ends the shuttle program

The park has several exhibit areas, theatres and a bus tour. Two 3-D IMAX theatres have 40 minute shows entitled SPACE STATION and HUBBLE 3D. These films make it difficult to tell if the movie GRAVITY was “real” or “acting” with “great cinematography and special effects.” It’s worth seeing all three films.

The entryway to the theatres had a series of movie posters ET, Star Trek, Close Encounters, Armegeddon, MIB, Contact and

Where was the sci-fi Forbidden Planet? KSC gave credit to Lost in Space and the "robot."

The Atlantis exhibit has a space shuttle experience simulation that

Launch Pad 39

you can ride.

Rocket Assembly Building

The bus tour takes you through the Kennedy Space Center Launch Pad 39 complex – and let’s you off at the Apollo/Saturn V Center which has two films.

I finally understand – the original launch complexes were called Cape Canaveral. This is named after the Cape Canaveral Air Force Property – NASA bought more property (Merritt Island) in conjunction with the Department of the Interior’s National Wildlife Refuge and National Park Service – JFK literally launched the flight to the moon program in 1961, he was assassinated in 1963 – hence the Kennedy Space Center and launch pad complex 39 used for the Apollo and Space Shuttle launches. Military satellites are still launched from Cape Canaveral – home to numerous launch pads.

Ready for launch
Canaveral Air Station

There is a launch of an Atlas V rocket with a Navy communications satellite scheduled for 7:42 pm on 20 Jan 2015. Check https://www.kennedyspacecenter.com/events.aspx for details.

Experience the thunderous roar of a United Launch Alliance (ULA) Atlas V rocket as it lifts off from Cape Canaveral Air Force Station carrying the MUOS-3 satellite. There are three viewing options available at Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex: both the LC-39 Observation Gantry and the Apollo/Saturn V Center are located within the secured areas of Kennedy Space Center or bleacher seating adjacent to Space Shuttle Atlantis℠ located at the main Visitor Complex.

I saw all the exhibits and films except the Astronaut Hall Of Fame – I could have spent more time reading or listening in the exhibit areas – and there are special tours available at $25 a pop – If you take one of the special tours plan on two days or at least 1 1/2 days.

Apollo XIII

Rocket Garden

Moon Landing

There is so much that happened in the US Space Program – even now we take it for granted but there are 3 people orbiting the earth in the space station right now and replacements are transported to the space station on Russian spacecraft and there are still several unmanned launches per month - - - - - - - the world has benefitted from the R&D – and never forget that at least 17 astronauts died in the program – exploration is still a dangerous business.

Part of the Astronaut Memorial - Challenger Crew

TUESDAY January 20, 2015

WEATHER: high of 60 sunny

TRAVEL: Like Friday about a 2 hour drive from

This is an off day – clean the trailer, truck and prepare for the next leg of the trip down toward the Everglades and Biscayne National Parks.

Dinner at Cody’s Original Roadhouse – Brownwood - The Villages, FL - a good dinner

. . . . also today is the date for the President’s State of the Union Address – even NPR is calling it a political address – tax the rich – increase capital gains tax – get rid of capital gains inheritance loopholes – let the rich fund ---“free” community college for all Americans and a 3x increase in the child care credit - some good ideas - tax reform – the strategist probably overheard them over a kitchen table or in a bar - really . . . . . ideas but not thought through – typical like Obama Care - it appears to be a political agenda – a lame duck and still campaigning – self serving – where’s the world leadership

WEDNESDAY January 21, 2015

WEATHER: 52 in Tavares – morning - sunny – 82 by early afternoon traveling south to Homestead

TRAVEL: Left at 9am arrived at Goldcoaster RV Park, Homestead, FL about 2:50 pm – a trip of 300 miles. Took the toll road all the way – cost between $35 – 40 pulling a trailer – bought a SunPass transponder and set up an account to avoid the toll booths. iPass does not work in Florida.

Goldcoaster
RV Park

Goldcoaster RV Park is a 24 hour gate guarded community of manufactured and permanent trailer homes. There are some lots they rent out – I’m in #186, completely grassy, trimmed, with an asphalt apron off the road for the truck – full hookup. This lot is much larger than a typical RV lot – surprisingly level – all the roads are asphalt. A Good Sam park. Not a restricted ‘over 55 community’ – there are some families here. There is a clubhouse, pool, whirlpool, shuffleboard court, and bocce ball field. Free WIFI is available only near the pool and in the clubhouse. Nice setup $350/week.

THURSDAY January 22, 2015

WEATHER: overnight low of 68 . . . high of 79-82 sunny

TRAVEL: This is an ideal location . . . it’s less than 3 miles to shopping; 11 miles to Biscayne NP and 7 miles to the main Visitor Center of Everglades NP.

161 BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK – Homestead, FL

Quilt

Biscayne is an almost pristine wilderness within sight of the cities of Miami, Miami Beach and Key Biscayne. Established as a National Monument in 1968 – I bought a book entitled “Biscayne National Park: It Almost Wasn’t” – it was enlarged to 173,000 acres and designated a National Park in 1980 to protect a rare combination of terrestrial and undersea life, preserve a scenic subtropical setting, and to provide a great place for recreation and relaxation.

Reefs, keys, bay and mainland . . . Biscayne is 95% under shallow water - great palce if you have a boat to get the the keys, islands and reefs. I was looking forward to taking a concessionaire glass bottom boat tour – but – no contract for 2015 – no concessionaire.

I did see two films on the area and there is a quilt display entitled “Piecing Together A Changing Planet” in the theatre – some nice work.

Biscayne Visitor Center Harbor

Much of Biscayne and the surrounding area (Homestead and Florida City) was devastated by Hurricane Andrew in 1992 – the structures have been rebuilt – coral broken – shipwrecks moved - etc. Hurricanes are nature’s ways of cleaning things up.

The Florida Keys (barrier islands) actually begin with Boca Chita Key. There is a dock, restrooms, picnic area, and trails – of course you need a boat to get there. There are also docks at Elliot Key with a ranger Contact Station, Adams Key, and overnight offshore anchorage at Sands Key.

On the eastern side of Biscayne’s keys is the northern most coral reef in the continental US – OK I’ll get snorkeling in the Virgin Islands – I hope.

The keys protect Biscayne Bay to the west – an underwater sea of grass.

Biscayne Bay

The largest undeveloped stretch of mangroves runs along the shore on the west side of Biscayne Bay.

Since there were no tours and I had no boat - I signed up for a 2 ½ hour canoe trip and picnic lunch with a ranger at 10am, Tuesday Jan 27. There was no cost – bring you own lunch. Hope the weather is nice.

I had hopes to use my beach chair that I bought for Indiana Dunes last June – but no boat – no beach. Goldcoaster has a nice pool – I drove back and got a start on a tan with an hour or rays.

162 EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Homestead, FL

I had stopped by the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center (entrance to Everglades NP) last year – it was 20 minute away – so I stopped there again to get a feel for activities over the next few days.

There are 5 Visitor Centers in Everglades National Park.

The Ernest F. Coe VC is at the main entrance south of Homestead, FL on the Ingraham Highway. Coe, an architect from CT, envisioned the Everglades as a protected National Park. He formed the Tropical Everglades National Park Association in 1928. Congressional legislation authorizing the new park was passed in 1934 but it took until 1947 for the land to be acquired and to be officially opened. James Edmundson Ingraham had conducted a survey of the Everglades for Henry Flagler’s Model Land Company to assess the feasibility of a railroad. Ingraham insisted that an approach from the east was feasible. He became president of the company and eventually recommended that a large tract of land acquired by the company be donated for preservation. In 1914, the road constructed by the Model Land Company to what is now the Flamingo VC was named after him.

The Flamingo VC is down the road about 43 miles. This is where I had planned to camp – but it was full – actually the Goldcoaster is probably better. Flamingo is the location of a former fishing village on Florida Bay. Boat tours, bike rentals and other concessions are located here.

The Shark Valley VC is located on the Tamiami Trail (US Hwy 41 Highway). A 14 mile tram ride and/or bike trail is available. Birding and alligator viewing are said to be the best here.

The Gulf Coast VC is located near Everglades City on the gulf coast side of the park. This is the gateway to the Ten Thousand Islands.

Big Cypress National Preserve and Midway Campground (I stay here at the end of February) are located between the Shark Valley VC and Gulf Coast VC.

The Royal Palm VC is a short way down the Ingraham Highway from the Coe VC. There are a number of ranger programs here that l plan to attend on Friday.

FRIDAY January 23, 2015

WEATHER: overnight low of 72 . . . high of 79 partly sunny to partly cloudy

TRAVEL: Back to the Everglades past the Ernest Coe VC into the Park and visits to Royal Palm VC, the Daniel Beard Research Center, an old Nike Hercules site and Long Pine Key.

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Homestead, FL Drove to the Royal Palm area. There are plenty of birds and alligators here along with a small gift shop and lots of black vultures. The vultures like rubber – not to eat - just to play with. The park service provides tarps; or park your car in the sun or put some plastic bags around your windshield wipers. I took a short walk along the Gumbo Limbo Trail (paved) at Royal Palm area. This is a hammock that’s come back after being devastated by Hurricane Andrew.

Ahinga Fishing

I also took a Ranger guided tour of the Ahinga Trail a little over a mile, 1 hour paved and boardwalk. This is probably the best viewing of birds, alligators, turtles and fish in the park - guaranteed.

It was a short drive back to Golden Keys for an hour sunbath and lunch.

Ahinga Trail Yes that close shadows are of people

Ahinga Trail Slough & Hammock

Ahinga Trail Commerant

Ahinga Trail Great Blue Heron

Back to the Daniel Beard Research Center in the afternoon for a Ranger tour of an abandoned Nike Hercules base. This was an interesting afternoon. The Daniel Beard Research Center is the ecological research center of the park. It is located in the original Headquarters Building of the Nike Hercules Battery. The original Army building was pink – so it stays pink – much to the chagrin of the ecologists working there. Dan Beard was named the Park’s 1^st Superintendent in 1947.

Nike Base Launch Area Aerial View - Double Fence - Entry Gate - Guard Dog

The Nike Ajax was an anti-aircraft missile with a TNT warhead. When the Defense Dept was concerned that huge fleets of enemy bombers could head toward the US it was felt that the Ajax was unable to meet the threat. Fleets of nuclear tipped missiles on the larger Nike Hercules missile was positioned on the north boundary of the US as well as the east and west coasts. It wasn’t until the early days of the Cuban Missile Crisis in 1963 that Nike’s defended to the south. Another battery of this missile battalion was located on Key Largo. This base was the last Nike Hercules battery to be decommissioned in the late 1970’s. ICBM’s took the place of bombers and the Nike program became obsolete.

Nike Hercules with Battery Guidons

Controlled Burn

Assembly Building

A controlled burn was being monitored by rangers and helicopters just to the north of the old base.

The tour ranger was a Capt UMSC in the 60’s and served in the Reserve in Ohio. He is a seasonal ranger – living in a motor home – he only does this in the winter – he really loves what he’s doing.

I stopped and drove through Lone Pine Key campground. I had stopped here last year but it’s dry camping – no hookups – no electricity – but still a nice spot. There was a 7pm amphitheater program here – that sounded boring - I didn’t attend.

SATURDAY January 24, 2015

WEATHER: overnight low of 72 – red sky morning – got cloudy – rainy – sun came out around 4pm

TRAVEL: drove about an hour on way to Flamingo VC – raining – decided to come back – will take Back Country and Florida Bay boat tours another day. Flamingo VC by road is about 20 west and 30 miles south of the main entrance

Flamingo Visitor Center

Flamingo Map

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Homestead, FL

I drove through the Flamingo Campground – glad they did not have any electric sites available – I think I would have been disappointed – I finally found mosquitoes – and it was raining – the ranger said cooler weather will dampen the mosquitoes – probably more brutal in the evening.

Flamingo Campground

5 pm Mass at Sacred Heart Church Florida City – less than a 5 mile drive from Goldcoaster. An Irish priest – they seem to have more than a few of them here in Florida . . . . . . he gave his once a year sermon about “giving” – yes money – 2,400 families registered 404 participate/contribute – 16% - all that I remember – oh yes he did have an accent.

SUNDAY January 25, 2015

WEATHER: cooler today 49 at 4:30 am – but sunny high of 69 by 1 pm with a northwesterly wind.

TRAVEL: drove about 50 miles north and west to Shark Valley VC along US 41

Observation Tower

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Miami, FL

Shark Valley VC is located on the Tamiami Trail (US 41) about 35 miles west of downtown Miami, a drive of about 50 miIes from Goldcoaster. This location has a 15 mile tram ride and bike path which takes you through Shark Valley. Of course there are no sharks , the area is completely landlocked. However there is the Shark River Slough (pronounced “slew”) which funnels water from the north is a southwesterly direction towards the Gulf of Mexico. The Shark River is an estuary, between fresh and salt water and serves as a nursery ground for the bull shark. Use your imagination to imagine a valley at 3-5 feet above sea level with Miami along the Atlantic at about 12 feet and the Gulf shore around 14 feet. There really is no valley – just the river which empties the surrounding land.

Shark Valley Everglades "River of Grass"

Tram

Everglades National Park spans 1.5 million acres. The Everglades itself used to cover over 8 miilion acres of Southern Florida, everything south of Lake Okeechobee before development. The Everglades are often described as having only two seasons- the wet and the dry. Most hot summer days are punctuated by quenching afternoon thunderstorms that bring life-giving water to the park.

Shark Valley Visitor Center – it was Sunday and hundreds come here to ride their bikes along the 14 mile paved trail. You can also walk or take a guided tour with a ranger on a tram. I took the tram and walked a short trail just south of the Visitor Center.

Anhinga drying wings

Great Egret

Alligators

I think I’ve seen my share of alligators, White Ibis, Great Blue Herons, Anhingas, Great Egrets . . . . a couple of birds I hadn’t spotted before include the Yellow Crowned Night Heron – a very pretty bird but no picture; the Pied-Billed Grebe; and a Wood Stork – even baby alligators – and the mamas do really a really loud “hissss” – keep your distance. On the other hand I saw my first butterflies today.

Soon after I got there (around 8:40) the parking lot was full and parking along US 41 (Tamiani Trail) extended for almost a half mile each side of the entrance. I’m glad I got here early.

Oasis VC

163 BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE, Florida

I was done with Shark Valley around noon and Big Cypress was about 17 miles down the road (US 41) so down the road I went. I stopped at Midway Campground where I’ll be later in February for 3 nights and at the Oasis Visitor Center.

Located adjacent and generally north of Everglades National Park, Big Cypress is a meeting place of temperate and tropical species containing a mixture of pines, hardwoods, prairies, mangrove forests and cypress stands, as well as more tropical species such as royal palms and cigar orchids.

Big Cypress Swamp. “Big” refers not to the size of the tree but to the size of the swamp – over 2,400 square miles in subtropical Florida. “Swamp” is a misnomer for this land of sandy islands of slash pine, mixed hardwood hammocks (tree islands), prairies, cypress domes and strands and marshes. The water is moving – not stagnant – as in a swamp. There once were large stands of cypress but those were harvested in the early 20^th century. The water in Big Cypress and much of what is left of the Everglades is seldom more than knee deep – it lies on top of hard limestone – not feet of muck. There is muck but that’s in another place and another story.

Florida Panther Oasis VC

The Miccosukee Tribe has a reservation adjacent to Big Cypress. US 41 runs right through the reservation – yes they have a casino-hotel closer to Miami. Their competition is the Seminole and their Hard Rock Café Casino/Hotel.

More than 60” of rain falls in Florida during the “wet” season (May – October). January is in the dry season. This is the time to visit when birds and animals congregate near the remaining pools of water.

MONDAY January 26, 2015

WEATHER: last night “red sky at night – sailor’s delight” cool again - a Florida “cold fish” day

TRAVEL: drove out again to Flamingo Visitor Center - about 45 miles one way

Coots in Coots Bay

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Flamingo Visitor Center

I took the 9am Back Country Boat Tour. This was a 2 hour ride that traveled up the Buttonwood Canal to Coot Bay through Tarpon Creek and about a mile into Whitewater Bay and back again. It cost $32 and there were only 3 people on board. A good choice, it was windy but the narration emphasized the vegetation – which is something I was looking for – just lucky I guess.

Your can also rent canoes or kayaks – just another option.

Buttonwood Canal was built by the Park Service to provide easy access to Whitewater Bay – a mistake – because it caused an unnatural mix of salt and fresh water. As the tide came in salt water had easier access to Coot Bay and other places north. A dam/gate at Flamingo resolved the problem.

By the way, there are no flamingos in Florida . . . .

There are 3 types of mangroves – red, white and black saw all three.

This is a big Crocodile

Also saw a baby crocodile, a deadly poison tree and a mahogany tree and lots of coots. The Wilderness Waterway is marked every mile by markers. You can canoe, kayak or motor all the way to Everglades City – a tirp of 99 miles – of course there are no gas stations or grocery stores – whatever you need bring with you. Most canoe trips take a week or more.

You can reserve a “chickee” from the park service – two elevated 10x10 platforms above the water with a shared chemical toilet – and adventure if you’re interested. The trip will take you through Whitewater Bay (east of Cape Sable) , through Oyster Bay , the Shark River, the Harney River, the Broad River and a whole lot of wilderness east of the Thousand Islands to Everglades City. Besides food and water bring a whole lot of mosquito repellant. Adventure – reminds me of the Kingston Trio’s song “Everglades” - “where a man can hide and never be found and have no fear of the baying hound – but you better keep a moving and don’t stand still, ‘cause if the squitters don’t get you then than gators will.”

With 16-25 mph winds and a threat of rain – it did rain – and temps in the high 60’s - I really didn’t think a trip on Florida Bay would be any fun – I passed.

I did stop and walk a short trail at Mahogany Hammock and

Bald Cypress - ghost white trees

Pa-hay-okee Overlook

Bald Cypress

Had some time – drove down Hwy 1 through Key Largo to the Bass Pro Shop on Islamoralda. Bought a waterproof bag, some ice packs and sunglasses with magnifiers (Costa's).

The ghost white trees look dead but they are not - they are Bald Cypress.

TUESDAY January 27, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 50’s high of 70; windy - sunny

TRAVEL: drove to Biscayne National Park

BISCAYNE NATIONAL PARK – Homestead, FL

Arrived about 0930 for the 1000 canoe trip – just as I thought cancelled because of wind or lack or of interest – like the boat tour of Florida Bay that I passed up on Monday – with the cold and wind it wouldn’t have been much fun.

It was warm enough to sit in the sun for an hour by the pool in the afternoon. Same people there – I suppose if this wasn’t my last day here I’d most likely get to know them. I did laundry and prepared for hitting the road tomorrow.

WEDNESDAY January 28, 2015

WEATHER: again low in the 50’s high in the 60’s; windy and sunny

TRAVEL: after a trip to the Post Office, I hooked up the trailer and drove to Camping World, Fort Myers, FL. This was a 4+ hour 170 mile trip – an 30 minute delay on the toll road due to an accident slowed things down a bit. I dropped the trailer for some repairs – perhaps the storage fee will be waved. The service advisor there seems amicable.

I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express about 4 miles from Camping World and had an invite for dinner at relatives in Fort Myers about 17 miles south.

THURSDAY January 29, 2015

WEATHER: cool in the morning at Fort Myers – cloudy around 80 in Belize

TRAVEL: drove to Southwest Florida International Airport, Fort Myers about 6 miles south of the Holiday Inn Express, parked the truck in Long Term and caught a 7:09 am plane for Atlanta. The flight to Belize was delayed by 2 hours the 1030 departure turned into a scheduled 1140 but it didn’t get off the ground until 1225 EST. I got to Belize City around 1430 CST, caught a cab to the Radisson Fort George.

There were about 30 people in red t shirts traveling in a group . . . all had name tags . . . . with titles after or before the names i.e. RN, OD, Dr. all medical professionals --- from conversation I found out that they were here for a week for volunteer work at a hospital in Corazol, Belize – there was a group from Dayton, OH and another from the state of Oregon.

Radisson St George - Belize City

ARRIVAL in BELIZE CITY: The cab driver was friendly – I explained my purpose here and affiliation with Rotary . . . we had a pleasant conversation about the Belize Emergency Response Team (BERT), tourism, rivers, schools, cruise ships, islands and Belize.

Radisson At Fort George Deck

The room at the Radisson Fort George is right on the water about a half mile north of where the cruise ship launches dock. A nice room – there is WIFI.

Dorothy Menzies Center Entrance

Upon arrival at the Radisson Fort George I was surprised to see a member of the Burlington Rotary Club in the lobby – he came down with the lady whose husband and foundation is responsible for this contact with Belize. Soon the three of us were off to visit a child care center – not an orphanage – not day care - but a home of children that have been abandoned or taken away from their parent(s) by the courts. I finally met the lady from the Belize City Rotary and a driving force within BERT, who I had worked with regarding the Rotary Grant Application for a medical airplane 18 months ago.

At the child care center we also met the BERT pilot and his wife who just happens to have a degree and background in child counseling . . . . . she serves as child counselor at the child care center.

The original structure had over 60 boys and girls from 5-18 years of age living together is one room in a two story structure – the lower room housed the kitchen. It was a fire trap.

Dorothy Menzies Center

The Belize Rotary and other concerned individuals raised funds to expand the facilities and provide care for the children. Apparently even the US Army built one of the buildings – a humanitarian engineering project. Today there are about 57 children in the facility.

Dorothy Menzies Center - BERT pilot left

Perhaps you’ll read a story about this visit and our trip in either the Rotarian or the Standard Press – I won’t be the author of those articles.

On return to the Radisson, there was a gathering of Belize Rotarians. I met the District Governor Elect (Belize, Honduras and Guatemala), and a number of other people with a passion for service – at least three were pilots.

These people (about half from the US) were truly committed to helping the people of Belize in as many ways as possible. Tomorrow we visit a prison.

FRIDAY January 30, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high near 80 – mostly cloudy

TRAVEL: Radisson to Cisco Construction to Belize Central Prison to John Woods house of lunch, Inga Woods glass art studio, Old Belize marina & museum, BERT airplane, BERT Headquarters and a pizza party with BERT staff,, Barb’s foster home and back to the hotel 8 pm.

A full day. We met John Woods at the Hotel and he drove us to Cisco Construction – where we picked up his English nephew and then a tour of the Belize Central Prison. What a story here!

I’ll try to get some of it right. Some years ago the prison was crowded, corrupt, offering no rehabilitation services men, women and children all in the same facility with what we would consider less than humane conditions. It was run by the state – then John Woods and his associates proposed that they run the prison as a non-profit – conditions improved immensely.

Jeremiah 33.3 Radio Station - Left is the director of the station

This is no ordinary prison. It has a professionally run radio station that provides music and entertainment from 8am to 9 pm – repeats of programs are on weekends. There is some talk but not much – the content appears to be modeled after some Belize TV offering education and entertainment in short 20 minute segments. Input from the inmates guides programming – If I remember correctly the station is Jeremiah 33.3 “ Inmates even get to perform on the station – much of the music is rap and reggae – Christian based. Speakers are in the buildings/cells of the prison – literally a captive audience.

Belize Prison Wagner Youth Facility

The prison population is about 3500 – there are about 400 employees – 300 uniformed security and 100 civilians. Security is paramount – it is a prison. Offenders are segregated according to crimes committed, security required and time left to serve. The goal is to provide the opportunity fro these people to turn there lives around and become contributors to Belizean society. A noble effort. They do many things for the good of the inmates that somebody would scream about in the states – fiest the faith based environment – bible verse and slogans are everywhere. The guards (all staff) are given training on how to negotiate – broker – conflict between inmates (many times rival gangs) –Strict “my way or the highway” is not the guiding virtue. Reminded me of the National Guard’s approach to the Wisconsin State employee strike in 1975 or 1976 when the “guard” together with sate management staff ran the prisons. A human approach.

We visited the Wagner Youth Center. Apparently Dick Wagner was with John Woods and saw that the children were in the same building/environment as the rest of the prison population and committed to build a separate facility. Today that facility exists. When we visited there was a general gathering of the children together with visiting Mennonite children who put on a short vocal/singing performance for us and each other.

There is an active rehab program for inmates addicted to drugs, alcohol, anger, violence, etc. Bottom line here an inmate has to go through the AA program before halfway eligible for parole – not forcibly but they really have no choice. About 100 men live and stay together for about 3 months – sustainable – and often become the leaders –model examples for the prison population and later the community. It was an interesting hour spent with this group.

Belize Prison Cindy Gregg School entrance - John Woods Rehab (AA) ARC in background

Lastly we went through the school. Here again many of the inmates are provided the opportunity to read, write, learn construction skills such as plumbing or electrical, English as a Second Language is taught to Guatemalan’s in the population, life skills and how to become a guide in the tourism trade are also taught. The principle is a civilian the instructors for the most part are prison inmates.

The prison also had a viable re-forestation and vegetable business where the inmates work the farms. It was surprising to see many of the inmates (orange shirts and shorts) swinging machetes upon approach to the prison. What a wonder – prisons – run by an outside entity – guided by Christian principles with a goal to rehabilitate. I am sure that we saw the “good stuff” – heard the “success stories . . . . I wonder what would happen to police forces in the US if chiefs would try to follow a similar approach . . . . . there are plenty of really bad people – even some needed psychiatric help in the facility but the approach was refreshing.

Old Belize Marina - Art Stuido of Inga Woods (John's grand daughter)

Lunch was at John Woods' house (located on the site of Cisco Construction.) Most of the road & bridge building in Belize is done by or at least bid on by Cisco Construction. John uses a man power intensive approach – to put people to work – where cement trucks could deliver cement – Cisco mixes on site – there is better control of the mix – quality is not sacrificed. Workers are paid by teams – a healthy competition – everyone has to pull their weight or well – no loafers allowed. This is a whole story by itself. Cisco actually loses money doing work this way – other projects make up the difference – I don’t think Cisco’s purpose is to make personal millions – but they do deal in those kind of numbers – they want to improve Belize.

Old Belize John Woods right

We visited Old Belize Marina and Museum. Drove past it twice – it really didn’t seem invited but it was built to cater to the cruise ships. John and associates almost lost it all – too big of a dream with too much happening too soon but not through a lease program the facility is a cruise ship tourist destination. It offers a marina, restaurant, and artificial – but well kept beach - for sunning and water play. Additionally, there is a concept museum. This place is an option for those who don’t want to go to the interior jungle to see the rainforest or Mayan ruins. Here you can see reproductions or both without the mosquitoes, a short history of Belize and a walk down old main street old town Belize all at one time. I was impressed.

We stopped by BERT’s Rotary medical evac plane. It will last a long time.

BERT's HQ Building

Dinner was a pizza party at BERT’s Headquarters. BERT is a 24 hour a day operation – medics and staff not on call were also here. BERT’s ambulances travel a distance of 30 miles to provide emergency services. Remember this is a not for profit organization – there are no such services provided by the hospitals or government. The airplane travels to other regions of the country that would take a half day’s travel or more by road. The roads are dangerous and not well kept in the backcountry. Reminded me of the Confederate officers at Gettysburg who died in the ambulance ride from Gettysburg back to Virginia rather than being captured by the Yankees.

Lastly we visited the home of an American woman with 8 foster children – all girls (ages 12-16). I had met her at the Child Care Center. Also a Rotarian of the Belize Sunrise Club.

What a day!

SATURDAY January 31, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70s high around 80

TRAVEL: drove west to Kings Children Center near Belmonpan; the embassies in Belmonpan; the Belize capital in Belmopan; Spanish Lookout airstrip to visit the old BERT plane, lunch at Orange Hotel in Orange Province, Xunantunich, San Ignasio Resort Hotel for dinner and back to Belize City.

Breakfast at the Radisson and we headed out on the Western Highway – through Belize City, past Cisco Construction and Old Belize, through Hattieville;

Hattieville is named after the hurricane that hit Belize City in 1961. The country of Belize, at the time known as British Honduras, sustained the worst damage from the hurricane. The former capital, Belize City, was buffeted by strong winds and flooded by a powerful storm surge. The territory governor estimated that 70% of the buildings in the city had been damaged, leaving more than 10,000 people homeless. The destruction was so severe that the government had to relocate inland to a new city, Belmopan

Kings Childrens Home - Inner Courtyard

and Old Belize City to our first stop at Kings Children Home. This was Saturday – it is a 7th Day Adventist run facility. All the children and staff except for 2 cooks were at church. Compared to facility we saw on Thursday this appeared to have much more funding. There was a huge, clean, modern commercial kitchen - larger than many high schools in the US. WE did not see the dormitories for the children. There are about 100 children here – more than just Christian - - - - you are brought up as a 7^th Day Adventist. Supported by 7^th Day Adventist US dollars.

Belmopan - US Embassy

We drove on through the capital of Belmopan. A new city built after Hurricane Hattie devastated Belize City in 1961. Past the US Embassy . . . . . there are a lot of Americans in Belize – you have to wonder just how much the State Department influences politics in Belize.

We also passed another children’s home in Belize – the home appears to be an item of controversy.

Carribean Tire Center

As we drove through the western, upland Belize City of San ….. it appeared much like any Midwest USA town. Grain elevators, farms, cattle, cows, newer buildings, a John Deere dealer, even the rolling countryside – it could have been Wisconsin except for the vegetation –amazing – a mostly German Mennonite community.

Refurbished Plane Max

Refurbished plane

We stopped at Spanish Lookout airstrip to look at the old plane that was used by BERT. A Texan by the name of Max and a Rotarian partner (Tom) from San Ignacio refurbished the plane. They put a lot more money into making it look pretty that the new BERT plane. What is important is the engine. For reasons I won’t go into it appears that this plane looks and in reality is new but there are some problems with paperwork regarding engine hours.

Orange Hotel & Restaurant

Hotel Orange

Lunch was at the Orange Hotel – relaxing – We met another American/Rotarian who runs a children’s home of about 18 -20.

Car Ferry

El Castillo

The trip to the Xuantunich was our history tour of the day. This Mayan archeological site is partially excavated and rest in Belize less than a mile from the Guatemalan border to the west.

View

Self Defense Force Lookouts

The main temple "el castillo" stands 13 stories tall. Of course I climbed to the top. Fantastic views and 3 armed Belize Self Defense Force lookouts on the top – no binoculars – laid back – sure they were lookouts. We had to cross a small river on a hand cranked car ferry to get here and back. An experience.

San Ignacio Resort

It was after 4pm and we drove back to San Ignasio Resort Hotel for a beverage and something to eat. A wonderful place to relax – great conversation. Finally got back to our hotel around 9:20 pm

SUNDAY February 1, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70s high around 80

TRAVEL: walked to church and a water taxi to San Pedro Island

Holy Redeemer Cathedral

Holy Redeemer inside

I attended 6 am Mass at the Cathedral of the Holy Redeemer. It was a 10 minute walk from the hotel. Of course the service was in English . . . not well attended – maybe 30-40 – the priest said what he had to say – did what he needed to do and it was done in 30 minutes. I walked back to the hotel.

San Pedro map

We had breakfast with John Woods at 8am. John was going to give the others a ride to the airport – I was staying for another day and had decided to go to San Pedro Island. The water taxi ride was $35 US round trip. One way is a one hour and twenty minute ride. The taxi was generally full. About the same size as the boat to Isle Royal on Lake Superior but somehow this one appeared to be more safe. At least I could see the life preservers and no one had to stand and there were not 3-6 foot waves.

Water Taxi Dock

It started partly cloudy – the sun had risen in the east – mangroves in the distance than they became closer – what looked like mountains in the distance looking east were red mangroves some with contours on the horizon – there must have been land there and palms. Pockets of blue green – deep blue and sky blue water – the white puffs above shaded some spots – eventually there appeared to what looked like clouds on the horizon eat but they were breakers on the reef as we got closer – a short stop at Caye Caulker and then to San Pedro - word picture no pictures.

Blue Water Restaurant &
Bar Sun Breeze Hotel

Sun Breeze Hotel

I almost stayed at the Sun Breeze Hotel on San Pedro for 3 days when I was originally planning the trip. Diving, snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, tours – yes a tourist destination for all – It was Sunday and many families appeared to be on Sunday outings. The place is not very big – wall to wall buildings – golf carts are the primary mode of travel – there is an airstrip - I’m glad I met up with the Rotarians and people of Belize City.

MONDAY February 2, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70s high around 80

TRAVEL: Belize City to Miami, Fforida

Breakfast at the Radisson – took the hotel shuttle to the airport.

Arrived in Miami at 3:20 pm EST and stayed at the Holiday Inn Express near the Miami Airport – a through flight to San Juan, Puerto Rico would have arrived at 1:20 am Tuesday morning – a long wait in an airport and then check-in to a hotel at a very early hour - I didn’t want the hassle.

The flight left on time – arrived early - uneventful – except for the landing where we swerved left – then right – then back straight while the brakes were applied – a little pull - - - - female captain – male stewards – American Airlines. Automated customs at Miami International until you get to the last stop – still took 35 minutes . . . . seemed forever but it appeared better marked than Beijing. Caught a shuttle to the Holiday Inn Express. Beverages at Tom’s Sports Bar next door and for supper I had breakfast at IHop.

TUESDAY February 3, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 60 high around 80 - Atlanta had 25 degrees when we arrived - mid 80’s in San Juan

TRAVEL: Miami, Florida to Atlanta to San Juan, Puerto Rico

Took a cab from the airport to the Sheraton Old Town $22 + tip (a 20 minute ride) – the $22 is regulated – i.e. you know the cost before you leave the airport. The Sheraton is a very nice hotel, just across the street from where the cruise ships dock – a casino is in the hotel, nice restaurant on the 2^nd floor, small bar with sandwiches on the main level – right on the edge of Old San Juan. I had been to San Juan about 6 years ago for the National Guard Conference – and had visited Old Town.

Castillo San Cristobal Main Entrance (Lower)

164 SAN JUAN NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Even though I had been here before I had failed to realize that San Juan (the older part) is actually an island. With Old Town, the old walled city at the entrance to San Juan Bay (the harbor). The old city was protected by two forts Castillo San Felipe del Morro “El Morro” at the entrance to the harbor and Castillo San Crostobal at the land side of the city. San Crostolbal more than a mile down the coast from El Morro. It was built at the narrowest part of the island to serve as a 3^rd line of defense against land attack. El Morro is the seaward and last line of defense against land attack.

Some Spanish lessons . . .

Puerto Rico = “rich port” San Juan = “St. John” the Baptist

Del Morro = “head of the land” Sentry box =”garitas”

Some history . . .

1493 Columbus sighted Puerto Rico on his second voyage but did not stop here

1508 Ponce de Leon starts s Spanish colony

1521 San Juan city founded

1539 Castillo San Felipe del Morro started

1595 Sir Francis Drake attacks

1598 Second English attack

1625 Dutch attack

1634 San Juan City wall started

1783 Castillo San Cristobal completed

1790 Castillo San Felipe del Morro completed

1797 British attack

1898 Puerto Rico becomes a US territory after the Spanish American War

1949 San Juan National Historic Site designated

1983 World Heritage Site designated

Old city Wall Near San Juan Gate

Puerto Rico was important to Spain’s growing empire of the Spanish Main. The Spanish Main was the mainland coast of the Spanish empire in the Americas. The Spanish Main extended from coasts of Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, Mexico, Central America, to South America.

The winds (trade winds) are always blowing here off the Atlantic Ocean. Because Puerto Rico was the first major island with water, shelter and supplies it was important for sailing ships sailing from Europe to the Americas. San Juan, Puerto Rico has an excellent deep water port. Spain controlled Puerto Rico from 1508 to 1898.

It is a half hour walk between the two major fortifications that make up San Juan National Monument. There is also a NPS tram that runs between the sites along the wall of old San Juan. Old San Juan is built on a hill. The land rises from the east to El Morro on the west. The streets are very narrow. Getting to the various levels of the forts is also a steep climb.

El Morro - to attack you had to cross this long narrow plain

El Morro What to see

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, ‘El Morro’ was built to protect San Juan’s deep harbor from attack by sea. El Morro evolved from a promontory with cannon to a massive six level fortress. El Morro was built over a span of 300 years. It endures as a masterpiece of military engineering. There is an admission fee that will get you into both forts. There is a book store here.

View from El Morrro across Old San Juan to San Cristobal on point to the back left about a mile

San Cristobal's Devil's Sentry - El Diablo Garrita

Castillo San Cristobal was built over a period of 150 years to protect El Morro from land attack. England and Holland were Spanish rivals. The fort was designed by Irish-born Chief Engineer Thomas O’Daly. O’Daly served Spain because Spain was an enemy of Ireland’s enemy, England. Castillo San Cristobal is the largest fortification in the America’s. There are 3 levels here. The climbs are steep. There are also two entrances (main & historic) with bookstores. This and Old San Juan are all I visited when I was in San Juan the last time . . . perhaps there wasn’t enough time or I was not aware that El Morro existed.

San Juan National Monument is a World Heritage Site. In 1972 the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Convention was proposed to enhance worldwide understanding and appreciation of heritage conservation and to help preserve a relatively small number of exceptional natural and cultural properties around the world that have “universal value.” As of 2012, 189 countries had signed on to the Convention. In all there are 962 sites on the World Heritage List. There are 21 such sites in the US and not all are part of the National Park Service. My travels have brought me to only 3 of the 21 – Independence Hall, the Statue of Liberty and now San Juan National Historic Site.

A restaurant in Old Town - I should have stopped here

Old Town – you could spend days shopping . . . . I did find a bookmark at the NPS Bookstore

Advice from a River

Go with the Flow

Slow Down and Meander

Go Around the Obstacles

Stay Current

The Beauty is the Journey

WEDNESDAY February 4, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

Loading at San Juan Airport
Pilot in White shirt loads luggage

TRAVEL: an 8 passenger (plus pilot) Cape Air, twin engine, Cessna 420 took us on the 40 minute flight from San Juan (SJU) to Christiansted (STX). Yes, a passenger sat next to the pilot – who spoke perfect English but appeared to be proud of his German heritage due to the German flag displayed in the cockpit. The flight reminded me of past flights with the Bauer Built or the Wisconsin Guard’s King Air.

I had reserved a small Toyota Yaris from Budget. The car was more than adequate – the AC worked. You drive on the left side of the road here – takes a little time to adjust.

The roads are two lane and winding and not well marked. I only missed turns twice. The island is well developed but nothing compared to Puerto Rico. Travel is at an easy pace – roads are marked 10 mph, 20 mph, 35 mph – if you are traveling 45 you are most likely traveling to fast for conditions.

View from my 2nd floor porch

I arrived at Arawak Bay, The Inn at Salt River around 1045. The place looked deserted, check in was at 3pm – however, a worker checked me into Room 25. This appears to be a mix between a bed and breakfast and motel built into the side of a hill just off the coast. The lower level is parking, there is a small pool (use it for cooling off) and bar – use the bar on the honor system – pay when you leave. The first level contains a small reception area, day room, dining room, kitchen, laundry, and other rooms with balcony running the length of the building. . The second level contains rooms with access from inside and the balcony that again runs the length of the building. There are a total of 14 rooms. There was only one other car in the parking area. I later met Jennifer – who I take to be the owner - very pleasant. The room contains, two, beds, a TV served by DISH, a refrigerator, desk, chair, walk in closet and bath. Not a resort – but I made a conscious effort not to stay in a resort setting. Only one drawback – no WIFI – in fact no phone service – unless I call AT&T and set it up for $1.99/minute voice or $2.05/MB - I shut the phone off – but I’m off the net. Again, more than adequate, I’m looking forward to breakfast.

There are 3 sites run by the National Park Service on St. Croix.. One is just down the road from where I am staying the Salt River Bay National Historic Park and Ecological Preserve. Another is Christiannsted National Historic Site a 5 mile drive and finally Buck Island Reef National Monument.

165 SALT RIVER BAY NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, & ECOLOGICAL PRESERVE St. Croix Island, US Virgin Islands

Salt River Beach
at end of the road

A NPS Sign?

Around 1:15 pm I drove down the road less than a mile, took a left down a dirt road and arrived at a 5 acre parcel of this park. I wasn’t impressed but Salt River Bay is a living museum and in need of more development by the NPS. There is an impressive white building complex that I can see from my balcony – at Christiansted I found out that it is the Visitor Center, only open of Tuesday and Thursday and the road is not marked.

Salt River Bay

All I found here was a marker indicating that Columbus landed here in 1493 on his second voyage and named the island – Santa Croix “Holy Cross.” I’ll visit tomorrow.

The area created by Congress in 1992 is a 1,015 acre park jointly managed by the NPS and Government of the US Virgin Islands. It is a blend of sea and land that holds some of the largest mangrove forests left in the VI as well as coral reefs and a submarine canyon (sounds similar to Biscayne in Florida).

166 CHRISTIANSTED NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, St. Croix Island, US Virgin Islands

Christiansted is s short 5 mile drive down the road – of course there are intersections that are not well marked and of course remember that you are driving on the left side of the road. I got down to the NPS Contact Center without any problem – note that it is not called a Visitor Center – I met a wonderful lady in the bookstore and saw some rangers but they stayed – for the most part aloof and out of sight. There is a parking lot.

Christiansted had a Danish background. The Dutch West India & Guinea Company (DWI&G Company) took possession of St. Thomas in 1672 and its neighbor St. John in 1717. Because neither island was well suited to agriculture, the company purchased St. Croix – a larger, flatter and more fertile island 40 miles south of St. Thomas from France in 1733.

Before the Danes, the islands first settlers were the Caribs. These are the people who had a skirmish with Columbus and his crew in 1493.

The Danes second settlement was named Christiansted in honor or reigning King Christian VI – the island was surveyed into plantations of 150 acres. Land came under cultivation and sugar factories began to operate. Population grew to 10,000 with 9,000 of them slaves from West Africa.

WHEN SUGAR WAS KING

Even with growth St. Croix’x economy did not flourish because of the CWI&G Company monopoly’s restrictive trading practices. The planters persuaded the king to take over the island in 1755. For the next century and a half, Christiansted’s fortunes were tied to the sugar industry. This was a neutral land, hence the prevalence of a British culture on a Danish island with a French name – with exports of sugar and rum. The golden age of sugar eventually eclipsed as a result of the rise of sugar beets in Europe and the US (much like the South’s cotton giving way competitive Egyptian cotton).

After sugar caught on as a staple in the French and English islands (1650) plantations replaced small farms and indentured labor gave way to slavery. Wealth accumulated at the top and misery at the bottom of social order. There are not any exhibits at Christiansted about sugar production – I understand the Cruzan Rum factory has some excellent exhibits.

St. Croix lived on trade – sugar, rum, molasses, cotton and hardwoods were exports – everything else was imported. Denmark ended the slave trade in 1803. After the Napoleanic Wars (1801 – 1807-1815) the US became the VI chief trading partner.

The US purchased the Danish West Indies in 1917 for $25 million. The need was for it’s strategic harbors – not its agriculture and formalized a long standing economic trade relationship.

Christiansted is a link to an old way of life with elegance, complexity and contradiction. The park consists of 7 buildings”

Fort Christianvaern

Steeple Building

Fort Christiansvaern – completed in 1749, added to in 1835-41, protected the town from pirates, privateers and slave uprisings.

The Steeple Building (1733) was St. Croix’s first Lutheran Church. The steeple was completed in 1796.

The Customs House (1841) is where the government collected taxes on imports and exports.

Scales in the Scale House

Government House foreground
Fort Christianvaern background

The Scale House (1856) was the site of where hogsheads and sugar and rum were weighed before exporting.

The Government House was completed in 1830. It was the Governor’s office.

The Lutheran Church (1744) built as a Dutch Reformed Church was sold to the Lutherans moving from to Steeple Building.

THRUSDAY February 5, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Arawak - Salt River Bay – along the northern shore to Carambola Resort to Fredericksted on the lee for the island, through and around the rain forest - down and along the southern side of the island to Sunny Isle Shopping Center – to Rowdy Joe's for dinner and back to Arawak.

A full day – breakfast at 7:45 am and back in the room around 7:30 pm. Breakfast was waffles, with sausage, fresh fruit. OJ and coffee. Lionel, Jennifer’s husband had left on business in Puerto Rico. Breakfast was served by Denice (Da nee see) and Dave who is actually a long term guest. Jennifer was ill. Dave has a daughter living on the island – tidbits gathered from conversation.

Verizon is not supported on the VI, AT&T is king

Met a couple who are here looking for a retirement home (3-4 months of the year)

There is an AT&T store at a shopping center called

Rowdy Joe’s has excellent fish tacos

Be sure to visit Cane Bay

Point Udall is the easternmost part of the island to see the sun rise

Off The Wall is a good bar

SALT RIVER BAY NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, & ECOLOGICAL PRESERVE St. Croix Island, US Virgin Islands

Salt River Bay Visistor Center entrance

Visitor Center from lower road

I drove, but could have walked the mile to the site of an unnamed Visitor Center. Salt River Bay is a work in progress. I met the Thursday volunteer Charlie from Cleveland. He’s been here since 1992, will be 70 this year and is a writer. Gathered a lot of historical as well a local date from Charlie – must have talked with him for almost an hour.

The unnamed Visitor Center is not marked on the road or turnoff, just head up hill and hope for the best. This place is in need of a budget- the building purchsed from a Dr. cost US $4million.

Charlie provided local advice as well as historic, cultural, ecological and educational:

Carambola Resort is peaceful

Be sure to visit the pig that drinks beer and have a “mama wama”

Cruzan Rum Distillery is an excellent tour; Capt. Morgan’s is too commercialized

Visit Coconuts

The Sands is the best restaurant on the island

The St. George Botanical Gardens are worth a visit

Travel through the rain forest

Visit Rainbow Beach

PEOPLE

There is evidence of 3 pottery making peoples living on St. Croix at Salt River. The Igneri lived here until 700 after which the Taino gradually absorbed them. The Taino were also in Puerto Rico. The Taino were farmers – the Caribs were warriors and conquered and enslaved the Taino around 1425. The Caribs crossed arrows and swords with Columbus on his second voyage.

Ball court plan to excavate - Bottom Right are the carvings that went to Denmark
Top Right similar court in Puerto Rico

Salt River Bay west shore was once home to a Taino religious and cultural center. There are the remains of a village and ball court the need to be excavated. Interesting that the US allowed the Danes to remove the walled artwork from the court well after the US had purchased the land. The artwork is in a Danish Museum. There is much to archeological treasure to unearth.

REEF

A coral reef surrounds St. Thomas. On the northern shore the water is shallow, water is clear then there is a cliff – a canyon wall the drops 350 feet to the ocean floor. Charlie indicated the St. Croix is relatively safe from tsunamis because the wave will suck water from the reef and wall as opposed from the beach – well . . . . we’ll see – there still a tsunami evacuation routes in Christiansted. Plenty of dive shops and dive boats. Divers masters take divers from 30 feet on the reef to 80 feet on the canyon wall. A diver’s paradise.

Salt River Bay from the Visitor Center

Arawak Bay Inn
lowest from Visitor Center

MANGROVE FORESTS fringe Salt River Bay creating a habitat of land meeting sea. All three mangrove species Red, white and black grow here. Many mangroves are still recovering from Hurricane Hugo (1989). They serve a a haven for small fish and protect the coral from shore runoff.

HISTORICAL

Salt River Bay and the island of St. Thomas were the home of many pirates and privateers to include Francis Drake who waited for Spanish treasure ships to sail for Spain.

Salt River Bay was home to some of the first European settlements on St. Croix:

English 1641, 1645-50

Dutch 1642-45,

French 1650-51, 1665-1733

French Knights of Malta 1651-65

There are several earthen forts waiting excavation to mark these occupations.

Carambola St Thomas - much closer than closer than Hawaii

Carimbola Beach Resort

I drove along the highway through Cane Bay to the Carambola Resort. I had lunch there and sat for about an hour on the beach – who need’s Hawaii? This paradise is closer.

Coconuts layout

There are 2 shopping centers – I found the one west – I travelled almost every road on the western Coconuts near Rainbow Beach for a Corona. Frederiksted is where an occasional cruise ship docks.

side of the island and stopped at

I found a National Guard armory and drove up into the rain forest – must have got turned around – never found the drinking pig – found a stretch of 55 mph road on the south side of the island – drove past the airport – found another shopping center and headed back for fish tacos at Rowdy Joe’s.

My liquid diet is working – so far I’ve lost 2 days – actually this is the first day I’ve eaten 3 full meals since I was in the trailer. Even in Belize at least one meal was usually appetizers or pizza. Glad to be back on track – of course I visit establishments that serve spirits also

FRIDAY February 6, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Arawak to Christiansted and back to Arawak and back to Christiansted for the Buck Island tour.

Breakfast was an omelet with toast, fresh, fruit, coffee and juice. Down to Christiansted – booked a tour to Buck Island – arranged for the rangers not to ticket my car in the parking lot and took the water taxi to Protestant Key and walked around the grounds of Hotel On the Cay - I stay there next week Thursday. Also stopped by the US Post Office.

167 BUCK ISLAND REEF NATIONAL MONUMENT, US Virgin Islands

Buck Island

I took the half day tour – the difference between full and half being that full includes a BBQ lunch on Buck Island and most likely an hour of snorkeling in the afternoon. I took the catamaran which left at 1230.

Buck Island is uninhabitated, 6,000 feet long, 2,500 feet wide and rise 328 above sea level. It’s 1 ½ miles from St. Croix but a 6 mile 25 minutes boat ride from Christiansted harbor. Only 176 of the 18,839 acre park is dry land – designated as dry forest.

Buck Island was proclaimed a national monument by President Kennedy in 1961. Expanded, underwater, in 2001, to preserve its Caribbean marine garden Buck Island provides sanctuary to 4 endangered species of sea turtles – hawksbill, green, leatherback, and loggerhead. Elkorn sea coral surrounds 2/3 of the island.

Coral reefs are complex invertebrate colonies of animals called polyps. Each tiny polyp produces a carbonate skeleton that results in massive but fragile formations. Polyps are filter feeders eat plankton. As polyps die new ones grow on their remains o expand the reef.

We anchored on shore at a beach on the eastern end of the Buck Island. The water was clear – the sand very clean – the purpose of the stop was to provide instruction and practice on snorkeling. The area is the only designated on shore anchorage on the island.

Buck Island - Catamaran at beach

The second stop was a designated anchorage just in front of the reef. We spent about an hour here. The images were exactly like the underwater videos film I saw at Biscayne National Park – a variety of pattern, shape, color, texture, and movement. The elkhorn coral rise like a wall to from a barrier. The lagoon created by the elkhorn is 10-12 feet deep. Although the breakers were small, I did not venture out beyond the elkhorn where the water is 30 feet deep. I stayed in the lagoon.

Buck Island reef - St. Croix in background

Off The Wall Beach Bar

Large brain corals grow large in the protected lagoon. I saw several species. There is a very short marked underwater trail – not exciting. I saw a lot of fish – some I could recognize

Blue Angelfish – Queen Angelfish – Grouper of some sort – a lot of blue fish. When I get to St. John’s Island I should be better prepared to identify fish and coral. I bought some identification cards at Biscayne.

We returned to Christiansted around 4 pm. The NPS bookstore still was not open – it may be closed Thursday and Friday.

I had a dinner at a bar on Cane Bay called Off the Wall – excellent Rueben Sandwich and potato salad.

SATURDAY February 7, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Arawak to Cruzan Distillery to Capt. Morgan’s Distillery to

Breakfast was whole wheat waffles with a delicious strawberry topping, coffee, juice, and fresh. Sat with Dave and a gent from Uganda (East Africa) – he and several others were here for a 3 day course at the University of the Virgin Islands on -----phonics – fish farming. The gent from Uganda is Micheal – yes he’s a Brit.

Arawak is a sub-tribe of the Taino. The play Dream Girls is in a theatre near Christiansted – starts at 8pm – may be too late for me.

Drove to the Airport – attempted to rent a car for next week Thursday – NO GO – all taken due to Agricultural Week/Show on St. Croix.

Gate Guard Out to lunch

Windmill Remains

Old Carriage House

Barrel/Aging House

I visited Cruzan Rum – really laid back – there was a gate guard but it must have been lunch so I just drove through. The tour cost $8 – they start every 30 minutes. This also was very laid back – there were only two of us on the tour. Other than learning how rum is made – I learned that Jim Beam had bought family owned Cruzan several years ago - probably good for Cruzan in the way of advertising and marketing. The molasses for the rum is imported – not made from sugar cane on the island. The barrels are also from Jim Beam. The rum is made here but shipped back to Kentucky for bottling and distribution by Jim Beam - interesting.

After the tour, the guide would make you any two rum drinks you wanted and there was sampling – not as commercial as Bacardi in Puerto Rico. This tour was better from the standpoint of a one on one personal tour. The 12 year aged rum is like a fine scotch. I think the rum is better than Bacardi.

Capt Morgan Closed

I drove to the Captain Morgan distillery – it was closed.

“An intelligent man sometimes is forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools” Ernest Hemingway. Hemingway and Franklin could have been friends –“ Beer is proof that God loves use and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin. I found the Hemingway quote at Coconuts near Frederiksted. Hemingway . . . . I thought it appropriate for today’s activities but I really think I’m allergic to rum – at least too much rum – I think it gave me the hives in Puerto Rico – well maybe it was Bacardi or Don Q rum.

SUNDAY February 8, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Arawak to Christiansted Holy Cross Church, golf at the Buccaneer then to Cane Bay

Holy Cross Church

I thought about a drive out to Point Udall to see the sunrise at 6:49am then decided it really wasn’t worth the one hour just to say I saw the sunrise over the US territory on Feb 8, 2015. I think it was a good decision

Holy Cross Church

7:15 Mass at Holy Cross Church inChristiansted. The Church is run by Redemptorists – the same from East Troy and Lake Beulah. Mass was in Spanish – more understandable than Latin. Lots of rosters crowing all over the town.

Breakfast at McDonald’s – too far to drive back to the hotel and not much else open at 8:30 on Sunday morning – many still are in recovery mode –

Buccaneer #15 green

9:30 tee time at the Buccaneer - shot a 47 and 3 lost balls – not a bad course – but cart path only – golfed with Al originally from Philadelphia now living in Lancaster. The early crowd on this course was not a friendly bunch – seemed kind of snooty - I think many may be locals – like what are you doing on my golf course. I don’t think I’d play here again. This is a pricy resort – not even sure I’d stay here. The Carimbola is on the other side of the island. I drove past it later in the day – more remote – looks elegant but I believe service would be at the top of their list.

Lunch at Cane Bay.

I drove much of the island again. I did find the Carimbola Golf Course - much nicer than Buccaneer.

SALT RIVER BAY NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, & ECOLOGICAL PRESERVE St. Croix Island, US Virgin Islands

This is the marker

Holes Everywhere

Attempted to locate an old Danish mill or fort that Charlie told me about just off the road. There is a very small NPS sign and a kind of trail - the trail was filthy with litter and garbage - old cable leading into a stone structure looked like the Salt River flows through here in the rainy season - this place was real forest jungle - I decided to go back. Not sure if those holes in the river be belonged to tarantulas or snakes or crabs. The trail was disgusting. I wonder what 2 rangers could do in a half day of cleanup?

MONDAY February 9, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water – everyday the same - isn’t that boring

TRAVEL: Arawak to St. Croix Airport (STX) – fly to Charlotte Amalie on the island of St. Thomas (STT) 8:30 flight – cab to Windward Passage Hotel

Left Arawak around just after 7 am – drove to the airport and still took a wrong turn even though I’ve been there or past it at least 5 times – it took longer to run in the car than it did to check in on the flight.

Finally caught some news in the airport CNN – who cares about Brian Williams - - - - all I can remember is a brief by a Ukrainian General at the War College in 1998 – what I remember most is his fear of the Russians taking over his country and that he/they needed to be a member of NATO or what is happening now was going to happen. . . . . so much for looking forward

Same kind of plane twin engine Cessna 402 – the pilot was way too high on his approach to the airstrip – even I knew that – he buzzed by – turned around and nailed it.

Charlotte Amalie St Thomas Harbor - my hotel is straight ahead center

Windward Passage Hotel

I caught a cab to the Windward Passage Hotel. This hotel is right on St. Thomas Harbor . . .

I had breakfast, found the ferry dock and went to the post office. Of course, check in time wasn’t until 4 pm but they got me a room by 1130

So far this trip has been full of ifs . . . .

- if I would have known, I would have flown AA out of St. Thomas not back to St. Croix

- if I would have known that the seaplane terminal is just 2-3 blocks from the Windward Passage, I may have flown a seaplane from Christiansted just for the experience

- if I would have know that many attractions close on the weekend, I would have visited Captain Morgan during the week

if I would have known that ferry or seaplane service was available from St. Croix to St. Johns, I might have avoided St. Thomas all together – Charlotte Amalie is the capital. There were 3 cruise ships docked when I arrived at the Windward Passage.

Back in December I couldn’t decide which vendor to rent a vehicle from – thought it would be easy to rent a jeep – last week - while at Arawak I decided to call and rent a vehicle – there was no charge for the phone call – today I called 11 vendors before I found a vehicle available – we’ll see what I get tomorrow.

- if I would have known that you could ferry a car from St. Thomas to St. John’s I may have done that

St. Thomas Charlotte Amalie Disney Cruise Ship

Here’s an if for you

- if you ever want to visit the VI, please ask me first

The cruise ships were gone by 6 pm

The Windward Passage is the best hotel I’ve stayed at on this since leaving Florida. Good location, the room is very pleasant, open courtyard houses the pool on the second floor and a restaurant/bar on the first floor – maybe it’s just because the AC isn’t trying to poison me with stale/used air.

No regrets staying in Charlotte Amalie for a day.,

TUESDAY February 10, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water – everyday the same - isn’t that boring

TRAVEL: Ferry from Charlotte Amalie St. Thomas to Cruz Bay St. John – the rental car in Cruz Bay was not there – stay away from Hospitality Car Rental – but caught a $1 one way bus ride on the Centerline Road to the 2^nd last stop on the line Condcordia Eco-Resort.

St John Smoothie Shop
Hospitality Car Rental

Having no rental car saved me about $180 – everything rented here is high end Jeep Cherokees at $75-90/day. The bus was only $1. The rental car would have given me more flexibility on places to visit but not the end of the world. The bus is an 8 mile ride that takes about 40 minutes and about 100 turns (switchbacks) as it climbs and descends the 1500 foot height of St. John – some spectacular views that I could not have enjoyed as much if I was driving.

Trails around Cruz Bay

St. John is very rugged – the bus runs on the Centerline Road through the middle of the island and much of Virgin Islands National Park but does not run along the National Park beaches of Hawksnest Bay, Trunk Bay, Cinnemon Bay or Maho Bay.

If I would come here again I would bring my hiking boots – get off the bus on Centerline Road and hike the one mile Cinnamon Bay Trail to the beach and take a cab back to Cruz Bay. Most of the trail from the top is downhill. I would not look forward to walking the trail from the beach to the road. It would be grueling.

There are plenty of trails on St. John. Not all are maintained by the Park Service. So there is plenty of opportunity for hiking. The Park Service provides a hiking trails map. I purchased a topographical map of the island with trails and trail descriptions from Concordia. It is a very good map – try www.trailbandit.org. Wear sturdy shoes and bring water.

Another trail that seems worthwhile is the Reef Bay Trail. The trail starts on Centerline Road and descends through some old sugar plantation ruins – a whole day will bring you back to Concordia.

Even the walk from the bus stop to the Concordia check-in and back to where I was staying was a trek. The walk down was easy – on a concrete road. But it was a 88 step walk back up to my unit. I made the right choice only taking a back pack along and leaving the PC checked in my bag at the hotel. The room was a nice affair with a kitchen, bedroom with queen bed, bath, huge shower, dining/living room and a very nice porch. Undoubtedly, a great view. No air conditioning or WIFI. The AC was the fans – open windows and the wind. It was relaxing just to crash on the bed for 20 minutes and cool down in the breeze.

The Tourist Trap

Concordia End of Road

Concordia rear of my unit

I did explore the roadways and to the end of the property – hot and sweaty. The limitation of no car left dinner to the nearest place by the bus stop – a place called The Tourist Trap. Concordia’s Restaurant is closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

WEDNESDAY February 11, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Concordia Eco-Resort – Salt Pond Bay; bus from Concordia to Cruz Bay; cab to and from Cinnamon Bay; bus from Cruz Bay to Concordia.

Concordia View of Salt Pond Bay from my porch

St John Cruz Bay VI National Park Visitor Center

168 VIRGIN ISLANDS CORAL REEF NATIONAL MONUMENT, St. John Island, US Virgin Islands

Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument was proclaimed in 2001 from 12,708 acres of federally owned submerged lands off the south and northeast ends of the island of St. John. This area, administered by the National Park Service, protects coral reef and mangrove habitat crucial for the biological diversity of the entire Caribbean.

Laurence Rockefeller (Marsh-Billlings-Rockefleler)
also bought most of the land for Grand Tetons National Park

I walked down a short trail from Concordia to Salt Pond Bay. The beach is not as sandy or shady as most beaches on the northern side of the island. The wind had shifted from the prevailing trade winds to coming out of the south resulting in a very windy and stirred up water – too rough for snorkeling. I understand that the snorkeling is good here where the reef covers a landscape of crags and crevasses. When the water is calm and clear there are plenty of corals and fish. The walk down the trail was steep and I ran into a number of hermit crabs, rolling along the trail and through the forest. Locally there referred to as soldier crabs - - - -

Hermit Crab on trail blurry

St. John Salt Pond beach

St John Salt Pond Bay

169 VIRGIN ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK, St . John Island, US Virgin Islands

Its steep volcanic terrain made St. John one of the last West Indian islands to be cultivated by Europeans. When the Danes came over from St. Thomas in 1717, St. John was not inhabited. The Tainos formerly living here had disappeared. Archeologists have been trying to pinpoint when they left. Why they left remains even more of a mystery. Perhaps Caribs drove them off and then did not stay themselves. Archeologists have been working at Cinnamon Bay beach to document both pre-1493 Taino and colonial era village sites before beach erosion and rising sea level destroy their artifacts. A 200 year gap in habitation no doubt all but erased the impacts of Tainos on the larger island development.

St. John Cinnamon Bay Archeological Building

The steep rising terrain offers many microclimates and distinct ecological niches. The good news for plants on the beaches is that there is plenty of light and very little competition. The bad news is that salt spray and the drying sun, not to mention sand that is poor in nutrients doesn’t help plant life a lot.

Danish sugar planters began clearing forests but the soil was immediately rich in nutrients and quickly depleted. The soil begins to dry and erode. Terracing was used to create level terrain to grow crops. The various trails in the park have plenty of remains of Danish sugar plantation culture.

Laurence Rockefeller initially developed a resort and home near Caneel Bay. The Rockefellers acquired much more land and later donated it to the people of the US for creation of Virgin Islands National Park. Since the 1960’s there have been many developments on private land. I found that many are from the northeast.

Staying on the island is expensive. Perhaps, if I had more time - I would have enjoyed the many facets of the island cultural, hiking, bio-diversity,- but without a car – I did not find paradise – I found tourists. Even with a car I would have found tourists – the lifeblood of the island is tourism – not necessarily the draw of a National Park and Monument. Like most of the other Virign Islands the island culture is derived from its African descended people and not from European. A five day stay, with hiking and snorkeling, on a planned agenda may have been more rewarding. There is plenty to explore – much of the island is wild.

It's always 5 o'clock

THURSDAY February 12, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s mostly cloudy, rained for about 15 minutes at 8am

TRAVEL: Bus from Concordia to Cruz Bay, St. John; ferry from Cruz Bay to Charlotte Amalie St. Thomas; airplane from St. Thomas to St. Croix; cab from St. Croix airport to Christiansted St. Croix; ferry from Christiansted Harbor to Protestant Island and Hotel on the Cay.

St. Croix Hotel
On The Cay Beach

Most of the day was travel. Arrived in Christiansted around 3:30 and took the boat out to Hotel on the Cay. A nice room with an ocean view. Went to the beach bar for a beer. In Christiansted, the NP bookstore was just closing. It is only open for 15 hours a week when the cruise ships come into Fredericksted. I had a very good pork tenderloin dinner at Rum Runner’s located on the water at Christiansted.

This is Lincoln’s Birthday.

FRIDAY February 13, 2015

WEATHER: low in the 70’s high in the mid 80’s partly cloudy, wind off the water

TRAVEL: Ferry from Hotel on the Cay to Christiansted Harbor. The cabbie was waiting for me at 7am and drove me to the St. Croix airport. Flew from Christiansted to Miami to Charlotte, NC to Fort Myers

Travel almost all day – arrived in Fort Myers, FL about 6:45 pm, picked up me truck and drove to relative’s house. Dinner and bed.

SATURDAY February 14, 2015

WEATHER: morning low of 41, windy – high of 69 by 4pm

TRAVEL: none

Started play of 18 holes at Shadow Wood Preserve with Larry at 7:30 am. It was in the 40’s . We finished in about 3 ½ hours. Shot 101. Six lost balls.

3:30 pm MASS at the Church of the Resurrection in Fort Myers. Probably 600+ people in church.

Spoke with Paul – he’s at Fort Bliss, TX should be home by the end of the month.

SUNDAY February 15, 2015

WEATHER: morning low of 49, warmed up nicely to the mid 70’s

TRAVEL: local – Fords Garage for some day drinking

A 8:38 tee time at Shadow Wood Preserve – played 18 with Larry and Marcia. Shot a 99. The first 9 was rewarding 3 pars and 1 birdie, lost 1 ball. On the second 9 I had a disaster hole where I lost 4 balls. After golf we had brunch in the clubhouse.

A relaxing day.

MONDAYFebruary 16, 2015

WEATHER: morning low of 49, warmed up nicely to the mid 70’s

TRAVEL: Camping World

Of course my trailer wasn’t ready because they were waiting on the insurance company to approve the estimate. They completed the other interior work but the estimate is under $600 – why didn’t they just order the parts and fix it. I’ll pick up the trailer tomorrow and bring it back next week Monday.

TUESDAY February 17, 2015

WEATHER: morning in the low 60’s high of 81

TRAVEL: Fort Myers - Camping World – Marathon Key Coast Guard MWR Facility.

Marathon Key Coast Guard Station - 4 trailer hookups

Marathon CG Station

Travel to Marathon Key was slow because of an accident in Fort Myers along Highway 75 and road construction along Highway 1 in the keys. About 245 miles. Left Camping World at 9am and got to Marathon Key around 2:40 pm. The entry gate is broken so you have to call to gain access through the exit gate. WIFI doesn’t work, no showers or toilet facilities, there are only 4 sites here – OK.

WEDNESDAY February 18, 2015

WEATHER: morning in the low 60’s high of 68. Rained last night, rained in the morning, raining when the boat left Key West – rain eventually stopped. Windy – gusts up to 30 mph.

TRAVEL: Left Marathon at 6am to catch a ferry to Dry Tortugas (Fort Jefferson) that leaves at 8am. About a 45 mile trip.

TODAY IS ASH WEDNESDAY

Map Dry Torturtgas National Park

Fort Jefferson Sallie Port

170 DRY TORTUGAS NATIONAL PARK, Garden Key, Florida

Fort Jefferson, one of the largest 19^th century American coastal forts, is the central feature of the seven Dry Tortugas islands in the Gulf of Mexico, 70 miles west of Key West Florida. The park is famous for its bird and marine life, as well as for its sunken ships. Dr. Samuel A. Mudd, who set the broken leg of President Lincoln’s assassin, was imprisoned here for several years until he was pardoned by President Andrew Johnson in 1869 just before his term expired and U.S. Grant took office. Mudd woked hard as a physician, when none was at the fort during several outbreaks of yellow fever.

Ferry at Fort Jefferson Dock

First set aside by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt as a National Monument in 1935, the 7 islands and 100 square miles are now protected as Dry Tortugas National Park. Over 98% of the park is underwater. You can snorkel at the island, but today was not a day for snorkeling. The fort was started in 1846 – built primarily by slaves with bricks (until the outbreak of the Civil War) from Pensicola, FL – it was never fully finished and all but abandoned by 1874. The size of the fort’s design 450 guns with a garrison of 1500 was never achieved, nor could it really be justified for its location. The deep water harbor did serve as a shelter for ships and the island was a coaling station for military ships. The guns of Fort Jefferson never fired a gun to repel an enemy. During the Civil War it did serve as a military prison. It was not a prisoner of war camp. Convict labor replaced slave labor after the Emancipation Proclamation. Its four most famous prisoners were the conspirators of the Lincoln assassination that were not hung. Dr. Samuel A. Mudd (set John Wilkes Booth’s broken leg), Michael O’Laughln, Samuel Bland Arnold, and arrived at Fort Jefferson on July 24, 1865.

Fort Jefferson Aerial View on a better day - Bush Key bottom right not connected

I took the ‘official’ Dry Tortugas Ferry, Yankee Freedom III from Key West to Fort Jefferson Dry Tortugas National Park. The boat ride costs $170 and takes passengers at about 30+ mph. The boat has twin hulls like a catamaran. I arrived around 7:50 am last to board – we left shortly after I got on. The ticket included a complimentary continental breakfast of bagels, doughnuts, fruit, orange juice, hard boiled eggs and coffee – probably why all those people were ahead of me.

The seas were rough – mostly 2-4 foot waves until we got to the Marquesas and the deeper (90 feet) water provided some good 6 foot swells. More than a few of the 70 on board got sick. On the way back the ride wasn’t as rough – the wind was at our back and I sat in the upper cabin – still the spray was reaching the second deck windows – if you sat in the open air aft – you got wet - just like my trip to Mackinac Island.

Last month, I purchased “America’s Fortress: A History of Fort Jefferson, Dry Tortugas, Florida” by Thomas Reid. A fairly complete history of based on the primary sources – mostly government records, official reports and diaries of soldiers and prisoners. It was a good read, I’m glad I read it before I got to the Tortugas.

Bush Key - even with the wind, you could hear a lot of nesting birds here

Fort Jefferson is on Garden Key. Close by – now adjoining – depending on the whims of the water – Bush Key serves as the breeding ground for turtles and 100,000 Sooty Terns. Up to 10,000 Brown Noddies also nest on the island. I could hear them – but we could not walk to the nesting ground. I did see a pair of my first Magnificent Frigate birds.

Casemate

Interior & Lighthouse

Waves Breaking on Moat Wall

You can camp overnight on the island – but there are not facilities – water or food – bring it all with you – of course you get there by the ferry or your own boat. If the weather were better and I was younger it might provide another adventure.

Fort Jefferson - the interior was called the "parade"

The fort’s masonry work is, in itself, an engineering and masonry showcase. As a fort it was probably over designed, and the West Point trained military engineers did make some errors in their waste disposal, wall load bearing and drinking water cistern design. None were ever fully resolved which made life at Jefferson very difficult. Still Fort Jefferson remains as the largest masonry design in the Western Hemisphere.

Restored 15" Rodman

Cuban 'Chug' Boat July 2007

The Dry Tortugas are 100 miles from Cuba and many refugees set their sights for these islands as a way to the US, primarily because the sea lanes are not as well patrolled by the Coast Guard as those near Key West and the Atlantic Florida coast. If a Cuban is apprehended at sea they are returned to Cuba – if one foot is on dry US soil they stay as refugees. They arrive in home made “chug boats” on a fairly regular basis.

This is a full day trip – worth the cost – about 5 hours on a boat – 4 hours on Garden Key. If you go, hope for warm (not hot) calm weather. I spent over 2 hours in the fort on a self guided tour and another hour plus following the ranger tour – with lunch there would have been little time for much else. The snorkeling is supposed to be fantastic – but you need cooperative weather even so, in the moat, I saw Star Coral and plenty of Upside-down Jelly Fish .

Fort Zachary Taylor Entrance Sign

THURSDAY February 19, 2015

WEATHER: windy all night – sometimes a gentle rocking of the trailer –sunny and cool high of 60 – the wind will make it more like 40’s or 50’s. Huge wind chills in the north. It’ got to be rougher on the water today.

TRAVEL: Key West – The No Name Bar on No Name Key – Fort Zachary Taylor State Park - Sunset Grill ( about a mile down the road) just before the 7 Mile Bridge.

TODAY IS CHINESE NEW YEAR – YEAR OF THE RAM or GOAT or SHEEP

I guess it depends on your translation

Finished reading a small book entitled “Fort Pulaski.” I visited the Fort Pulaski National Monument near Savannah, GA on December 6, 2014.

No Name Bar is on No Name Key just off of Big Pine Key. No matter what time of day, the stoplight along US 1 on Big Pine Key backs up traffic going south at least 3 – sometimes 5 miles. There was a 15 minute wait at noon for a seat at No Name Bar. Food looks very good – but I just had a Yuengling – 12 oz in a plastic cup for $3.50 – seems expensive.

Besides yesterday I’ve been to Key West twice before – nothing has changed – too many tourists – no place to park – too many scooters – I think I prefer to visit Key West on a cruise ship docking for a day. I couldn’t find a place to park. Luckily, I came across a sign that led me to Fort Zachary Taylor State Park.

Unfortunately, the military did the same thing to this ”third system” coastal defense fort as they did to Fort Sumter - - - - removed the top two tiers – filled in the casemates with sand and ‘upgrades’ for WWI resulted in painting the walls facing the sea black. Still something saved is better than having it be overgrown and falling apart. It was saved and championed to become a state park by a local man. So my trip to Key West was not a waste of time.

Fort Taylor from top of first tier - view of interior

10" Rodman - not mounted

Sunset Grille Outdoors Bar

Sunset Grille

Ended the day with a visit to the Sunset Grille at 4:15 pm – Left just before 6 - it was not as crowded as last night at 7:15 pm – of course it was early and the music hadn’t started yet. Food is good.

I heard on NPR that the President has declared 3 new National Monuments to be administered by the National Park Service. One in Chicago - go figure – one in Hawaii and one in Colorado. Now there are at least 404 sites. It’ll take years for the NPS and budgets to get anything done at these sites.

(CNN)Chicago's historic Pullman District, a World War II internment camp and a section of Colorado's upper Arkansas River Valley will become the nation's newest national monuments this week, a White House official told CNN.

President Barack Obama plans to make the announcement Thursday during a visit to Chicago's Pullman town, a historic industrial site that will become the first National Park Service unit in the city, the official said.

Obama is naming the sites using his authority under the Antiquities Act, which he has already used to establish or expand 16 national monuments. Since 1906, presidents have used the act to protect other historic and natural sites across the country, including the Grand Canyon and the Statue of Liberty.

Pullman National Monument, Illinois

America's first planned industrial town, the 203-acre site within the present-day city of Chicago has factories and buildings from the Pullman Palace Car Co., a railway car company dating to 1867. The company town was established in the 1880s.

A majority white work force constructed the famous railway cars, while a mostly black work force from the ranks of former slaves worked in service positions on the cars. Key to the rise of an African-American middle class, the porters made labor history by organizing as the Brotherhood of the Sleeping Car Porters and eventually winning a historic labor agreement.

"Pullman workers fought for fair labor conditions in the late 19th century, and the Pullman porters helped advance America's civil rights movement," said Sen. Richard Durbin, D-Illinois.

"During the economic depression of the 1890s, the Pullman community was the catalyst for the first industry-wide strike in the United States, which helped lead to the creation of Labor Day as a national day."

Honouliuli National Monument, Hawaii

Not far from Pearl Harbor, the Honouliuli Internment Camp opened in 1943 and was the longest-used and largest site for holding Japanese-Americans, European-Americans and resident immigrants in Hawaii. The internment camp, which once held captive 400 civilian internees and 4,000 prisoners of war, will be managed by the National Park Service.

"Honouliuli represents a dark period in our history when thousands of Japanese-Americans in Hawai'i and across the country were forced into internment camps during World War II," Sen. Brian Schatz, D-Hawaii, said in a statement.

"This historic site will memorialize the strength and bravery of the many Japanese-Americans who faced discrimination and serve as a reminder to ourselves and future generations that we cannot repeat the mistakes of the past."

Browns Canyon National Monument, Colorado

Located in the upper Arkansas River Valley near the town of Salida, this 21,000-acre monument will protect the bighorn sheep, bald eagles and amazing diversity of wildlife and plants that inhabit the mountains and cliffs of Browns Canyon.

The designation will support outdoor human activity such as hiking, hunting and fishing, protect the watershed and keep in place existing water rights and uses. The site will be managed by the Department of the Interior's Bureau of Land Management and Department of Agriculture's National Forest Service.

"Browns Canyon is a national treasure with a long history of bipartisan support in Colorado," said Sen. Cory Gardner, R-Colorado, adding that the monument will stand as a tribute to former Sen. Mark Udall's legacy of protecting this and other Colorado sites.

However, Gardner stated his preference to work through the legislative process. "In the coming days I will be introducing legislation to ensure that Colorado's state and local interests have a seat at the table in discussions about Browns Canyon."

FRIDAY February 20, 2015

WEATHER: Not as windy but I believe 45 degrees is cold for Marathon Key. It was 54 in the trailer at 6 am – It stayed windy but reached 70 by 2pm at Midway Campground.

TRAVEL: It took about 3 ½ hours to travel the 132 miles from Marathon Key to Midway Campground. There is no fast travel in the Keys along US 1 and no passing. After setup, I visited Big Cypress National Preserve Oasis Visitor Center and Welcome Center – Everglades Gulf Shore Visitor Center – Everglades City.

Midway Campground Aerial View

MIDWAY CAMPGROUND is a site within Big Cypress National Preserve administered by the National Park Service. Asphalt pads, level, flush toilets, no showers, dump station and potable water available. NO WIFI and unable to make a phone connection – but a nice place along Tamiami Trail East (Highway 41 ) midway between Miami and Everglades City – smack in the middle of the Everglades. There are plenty of campsites within Big Cypress, but Midway is the only one with an electric hookup.

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Big Cypress is a meeting place of temperate and tropical species containing a mixture of pines, hardwoods, prairies, mangrove forests and cypress stands, as well as more tropical species such as royal palms and cigar orchids. There is a lot more to explore here than what just meets the eye.

Not even a bar here - didn't stay

Smallwood Store

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK - Everglades City, FL I got to the Visitor Center around 4:50 pm – it was closed and the concessionaire was closing. However I did pick up some literature on the boat tours.

Everglades City has often been described as a “quaint little drinking village with a fishing problem.” With notoriety like that I had to make a visit. I couldn’t find the “quaint drinking or fishing village” i.e. I couldn’t even find a bar or restaurant that was open. I did make my way to the “historic” Smallwood Store – it also was closed.

Close by is Joe Bay. The story goes that William Edmund Dickinson, curator of the Milwaukee Public Museum, recalls a 1942 expedition to capture a live American Crocodile for display. He indicates that this large body of water in east Florida Bay was called “Alligator Joe’s Bay.”

SATURDAY February 21, 2015

WEATHER: Cloudy and 52 degrees at 4 am.

TRAVEL: Midway through Big Cypress to Everlades Gulf Shore Visitor Center – bak to Midway

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Monroe Station

The 24 miles of the Loop Road Scenic Drive (County Road 94), was created out of a dispute over the official route of the Tamiami Trail. The road is gravel for over 17 miles. The NPS has a good pamphlet that covers the journey but you have to ask for it. Brochures in Big Cypress are not in bins for the taking. The Loop Road starts just west of the Oasis Visitor Center at Monroe Station on US 41 and heads south and east. It comes out on US 41 about 4 miles west of the Everglades Shark Valley Visitor Center.

Monroe Station is one of the original buildings along the Tamiami Trail. The building was completed in 1928 or 1929, as one of the six service stations built at regular intervals along the road to assist travelers – providing gasoline, refreshments and assistance for broken down vehicles. It was also a tavern and roadside inn. The historic building is now closed due to structural problems.

I started down the gravel road . . . after about 1/3 of a mile the Silverado’s Engine Light came on and the Oil Pressure Gauge was pinned at 80. I stopped, read the car manual, checked the oil, called OnStar for the nearest Chevy garage, even called Jim & Debbie to see if he had ever seen that happen (found out they were on their way to Naples to visit Jim’s sister, they should be here on Monday evening) – after 4 or five calls OnStar pulled a diagnostic and confirmed what I already knew – even OnStar was better than expected – very helpful - I checked the oil one more time – it was very clean – just had to be sure that I did read oil – and headed the 54 miles to Bob Taylor Chevrolet in Naples. I expected to leave the truck and rent a vehicle – it was Saturday.

When I arrived at Bob Taylor Chevrolet, the Service Advisor exceeded my expectations. He checked the diagnostic with a hand held device and suspected what I did – that a sensor was indicating that the oil pressure gauge was bad. He said he’d have it repaired in an hour or two. I grabbed a book and in less than 2 hours I was on my way.

Service – this guy provided the service that would make me want to come back. This was the kind of service that impressed me 25 years ago at my local Chevy dealership - it must be hard to keep good service people on your payroll. This was the second Chevy dealer, on the road, that earns an above and beyond congratulations from me for service. The first was near Cincinnati – and all I had done there was a simple oil change.

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK - Everglades City, FL

With just enough time - I took the 1 ½ hour Ten Thousand Island boat tour at the Everglades Gulf Coast Visitor Center. The only way to see this part of the park is by water so without at boat - at the edge of the Everglades, I paid the $30 plus tax. We left at 3 and got back around 4:30 pm.

The Gulf Coast Visitor Center is the northern terminus of the 99 mile Wilderness Waterway between here and Flamingo Visitor Center on Florida Bay to the south. A wilderness journey through the Everglades – you need a boat or a canoe or a kayak – no stores along the way. It would be quite an adventure.

I enjoy boat rides so the ride on the twin hulled deck was enjoyable. There were about 15 people on the boat plus the captain and a mate. I added some birds to my list – Black Skimmers, American Oystercatchers, lots of Osprey sitting on nests, White Ibis, Royal Terns-who always face into the wind, Brown Pelican and two sand bars full of American White Pelicans, and Double Crested Cormorants

Plenty of Dolphins in the water – not in the mood to play in the wake of the boat – but we spent a lot of time viewing Dolphins. Saw a pod of six frequently – there were more.

Dolphins

Boat

White Pelicans

SUNDAY February 22, 2015

WEATHER: 61 this morning at 4:30 am got up to 80

TRAVEL: Midway to Naples to Everglades Gulf Coast back to Midway.

St. Peter the Apostle

I drove 52 miles to attend 8am Mass at St. Peter the Apostle Church in Naples, Florida. A huge church – 700 in attendance. Same problem they have in Fort Myers - parking. I got there at 7:45 and the church was full – I had a truck, so overflow parking in what would be a swamp if it rained was not a problem. The priest says 9 Masses on Saturday and Sunday – I felt inspired somehow – maybe because it took me an hour to get here – maybe because I remember his homily quote from Pope Francis “ . . . an island of mercy is a sea of indifference” – maybe because I stood through the entire mass – I don’t think it was his 25 minute homily about the need for enlarged parking and a new parish center $$$. Interesting this church has a literacy ministry within the community. Many in the area do not know how to write or read English – guess the guy joking about people not being able to read at Everglades City really wasn’t a joke.

EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK - Everglades City, FL

After church I drove to Everglades Gulf Coast Visitor Center and took the 11:30 Mangrove Wilderness boat tour is a 1 ¾ hour 6 passenger tour that led up the Turner River and passes Calusa Indian shell mounds before entering a maze of nameless and aimless waterways leading to Half Way Creek. It goes through the mangrove forest at close range. I found out that the shell mounds were built by the Calusa to raise the height of the land as a refuge from hurricanes..

Mangrove boat tour

The other 5 on my boat were Chinese only one really spoke English. Saw lots of birds and an alligator. Good thing I enjoy boat rides. Cost was $42.40 and took the 11:30 Mangrove Wilderness boat tour is a 1 ¾ hour 6 passenger tour that led up the Turner River and passes Calusa Indian shell mounds before entering a maze of nameless and aimless waterways leading to Half Way Creek. It goes through the mangrove forest at close range. I found out that the shell mounds were built by the Calusa to raise the height of the land as a refuge from hurricanes..

After the boat tour I drove down US 41 and stopped at Joanie’s Blue Crab Cafe. The people working here enjoy what they’re doing. I had a local Florida brew – serve yourself from the cooler and pay the waitress – after about 10 minutes a guitar singer started. I could have spent the afternoon there but I was in Big Cypress and wanted to see some more of it.

Ochoppee Post Office

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

The Turner River, upper Wagonwheel and Birdon Road Loop Drive begins at H.P. Williams Roadside Park. Williams was an engineer for the Collier Company during the construction of the Tamiami Trail. The road goes north, then west and south to US 41 coming out about 3 miles west of its starting point.

Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake

Black Racer - white is bottom of head

I drove the 16.4 mile Turner River, Upper Wagonwheel and Birdon Loop Drive – gravel road, following canals – dusty – but not anybody in front of me. Saw many birds and two snakes crossing the road. The first was a 5-6 ft Eastern Diamondback Rattlesnake, the second was a fairly common Black Racer. The Diamondback just continued on his way when I stopped to take a picture; the Black Racer coiled and took a defensive posture. I also saw several alligators fully out of the water sunning themselves. When I finished the road trip I stopped at the Oasis Visitor Center to see if the ranger could confirm the Diamondback picture. Yup – and she had me fill out a sighting report.

MONDAY February 23, 2015

WEATHER: Low of 61 foggy until 9 – 9:30; high of 83

TRAVEL: Midway Campground to Fort Myers Camping World – 92 miles, about an hour and 40 minute drive

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Snowy Egret

Where;s the Wood Stork

After the trailer was ready to move and the fog started to lift I decided to finish the 24 mile Loop

Road Scenic Drive that I had barely started on Saturday before I had the oil gauge pin out . . . . This is one way to explore the remote areas of the National Preserve down a gravel road , otherwise known as County Road 94. The road was created out a dispute over the official route of the Tamiami Trail. The road spans 3 counties: Collier to the west, Monroe in the Center and Dade to the east. It goes through cypress strands, some pine forest and as most roads here, follows a canal that dug out to provide the bed of the road.

There are several named cypress strands in Big Cypress. A strand is an area of cypress that most likely remains in water during the dry season.

I saw plenty of birds along the road – blue herons, great egrets, ibis, and a flock of the endangered wood stork. Plenty of alligators just west of the Tree Snail Hammock Trail.

Pinecrest

The dispute over where the Tamiaimi Trail should go is based on two local fellows with business interests. One had a business interest in the town of Pinecrest. It is said that Al Capone also had a home and some business interests here. Pinecrest used to be home a a rough and rowdy “Gator Hook Lodge” bar and dance club ‘NO Guns or Knives INSIDE.’ The lodge was also known for the fiddle player Ervin Rouse. Rouse wrote “The Orange Blossom Special.”

TUESDAY February 24, 2015

WEATHER: low 60’s, mostly sunny high in the 70’s

TRAVEL: Fort Myers to Tampa to Fort Myers. A one way drive of about 92 miles.

171 DESOTO NATIONAL MEMORIAL, Bradenton, Florida

A visit to this memorial was a pleasant surprise, i.e. more was there than I expected. I learned a lot of history that I had forgot and some I’m sure I never learned. There is a small visitor center with a very good film and a delightful gent who works as a volunteer – he loves what he does. There is a living history exhibit which had demonstrations even on a Tuesday, and a good nature trail.

In May 1539, Conquistador Hernando de Soto’s army of soldiers, hired mercenaries, craftsmen and clergy made landfall in Tampa Bay. They were met with fierce resistance of indigenous people protecting their homelands. De Soto’s quest for glory and gold would be a four year, four thousand mile odyssey of intrigue, warfare, disease, and discovery that would form the history of the United States.

Ferdinand and Isabella united Spain and financed Columbus’ voyage in 1492. Eight centuries of war with the Moors had produced a class of warriors who clung to the ideals of a now defunct knighthood. After the expulsion of the Muslims in 1492, they were left with no outlet for the religious and national impulses. Conquistadores found it in America, where the heathen Indian replaced the heathen Moor.

De Soto learned his craft and earned a fortune following Juan Pizarro in his conquest of Central America and the Incas of Peru. De Soto left Spain at the age of 14 and returned to Spain 22 years later a rich man. He invested his entire fortune in a second trip. He adopted the predatory methods of his former conquistador mentors. His army consisted of 700 men, 200 horses, 10 priests, 2 women a herd of pigs and war dogs. He was brutal taking slaves and hostages and killing Indians who deceived him. He had no friends among the Indians.

However, De Soto found no gold. He did find resistance by another warrior culture who showed prowess with the bow and arrow, courage and endurance. They relied on stealth and knowledge of the terrain. This worked well in the forest but in the field they were no match of the cavalry charges and armored infantry wielding crossbow, lance and halberd. There are several books/diaries left by the 300 who survived the expedition.

August 1539 near Ocale A hundred men and women were taken, on or tow of whom were chosen out for the governor . . . they were led off in chains, with collars about the neck

Winter 1540 Anhica, FL The cavalry carried grain on the horses, the infantry on the back; because the Indians … being naked and in chains, had perished in great part during that winter

Fall 1540 Aute, FL He recognized . . . the headpieces of the horses . . . forge . . . and mangers and mortars they used to grind corn and the crosses cut in the trees signs of the doomed Narvaez expedition of 1528

April 1540 near Ocmulgee, GA Not one would show knowledge of his lord’s village . . . although they burnt one of them alive before the others, and all suffered that martyrdom

July 1540 Coosa, SC The Cacque came out borne on a litter on the shoulders of the principal men . . . on his head he wore a diadem of plumes and was surrounded by attendants playing upon flutes and singing

August 1540 Etowah, SC He . . . sent Indians with messages . . . that rather then see before him each day the captain who had insulted him, he preferred to remain among the Indians

Dec 1540 Apafalaya, AL Wearing a short garment . . . torn on the sides, his flesh showing . . . . barefoot, . . . amidst frost and cold . . . he had to dig with his nails to get something to eat.

June 1541 Pacaha, AK We came to some . . . huts covered with rush sewn together. When the owner moves away, he will roll up the entire covering and carry it, the wife taking the . . . poles.

Living History Interpretation

By spring 1542 it was over. De Soto’s translator died of fever. In May 1542 De Soto succumbed to a fever. His captains buried him in the Mississippi River. The army made an abortive overland attempt but spent one more winter along the Mississippi. They built boats, abandoned 500 slaves in alien country and in July 1543 they floated down the river to the Gulf following the coast of Texas to a Spanish settlement on the Panuco River, Mexico September 10, 1543.

Drove to Naples and had dinner at a place called Spanky’s with Jim & Debbie who were down here visiting Jim’s sister Anne Marie.

WEDNESDAY February 25, 2015

WEATHER: high in the 80’s mostly sunny

TRAVEL: stayed at Shadow Woods

Shadow Wood CC
entrance

Shadowood 2nd shot #2 Par 5

W.C. Fields said “Golf, a good long walk spoiled.” That was long before motorized golf carts . . . . I enjoy golf - - - - - - especially golf at Shadow Woods Country Club. However, I did not do as well - only 4 lost balls but more sand and out of bounds for 112; front nine of 53 and a back nine 59. Far more than the 100 and 99 shot last week.

THURSDAY February 26, 2015

WEATHER: 70’s cloudy – potential for rain

TRAVEL: Fort Myers to somewhere – maybe Williston Crossings RV

Travelers Rest Entrance

Travelled to Camping World Fort Myers – ‘the parts had come in’ but they still weren’t installed – ‘sometime this afternoon’ - he wouldn’t give me a time – stuck until they finish. Called Oak Grove (Navy Pensacola) and indicated that I would not arrive today – it was a 612 mile trip anyway – way too far for one day – The trailer was ready at 3:30 – a day of travel literally lost – I left at 4 pm and drove to Travelers Rest RV Resort near Dade City, FL a trip of 2 hours and 45 minutes – about 152 miles.

FRIDAY February 27, 2015

WEATHER: mostly cloudy all day low of 48 – high of 58

TRAVEL: Travelers Rest RV Resort Dade City to Oak Grove Campground Naval Air Station Pensacola – a nine hour drive over 400 miles

Naval Air Station Pensacola - Home of the Blue Angels F-14

Oak Grove Campground

Oak Grove Campground is physically located on Naval Air Station Pensacola. Site 48 is probably one of the best sites in the campground. Bath house is close (very clean); best location to the Gulf ; all pads are concrete; full hookup; unable to find WIFI. Friendly neighbors on each side – to the west are Vigil and Marsha. This would be an excellent summer site. Don't get confused with Blue Angels Recreation Area - another facility but not on base - about 12 miles down the road.

SATURDAY February 28, 2015

WEATHER: a two dog night – 42 degrees at 4 am, clear over the Gulf-cloudy overland

TRAVEL: Fly from Pensacola LV 0715 to Minneapolis AR 1341 – a 2 ½ hour layover in Atlanta; drive to Durand, WI

CELEBRATION OF ETHEL’s 99^th Birthday – above is only 3 of the 33 grandchildren and 2 of a lot more great grandchildren that visited

SUNDAY March 1, 2015

WEATHER: teens and 20’s – snow on the ground – some ice on the streets of Druand for snowmobiles

TRAVEL: Durand

8:30 am MASS at St. Mary’s Durand

MONDAY March 2, 2015

WEATHER: Clear and cold left Durand 0615 it 9, temp dropped to 3 while driving to Minneapolis; 61 in Atlanta, 68 and cloudy in Pensacola

TRAVEL: Drive to MSP LV 1000 AR PSN 1517, only 1 ½ layover in ATL – back to my trailer by 4pm

Over the weekend - finished reading several NPS booklets. The first was Fort Matanzas and second was De Soto, Coronado, Cabrillo - Explorers of the Northern Mystery. The third was a small book entitled A Brief History of the Everglades City Area. All three enjoyable – American History before the English. I visited Fort Matanzas National Monument on December 9, 2014 and De Soto National Memorial on February 24, 2015. I’m looking forward to visiting Pecos National Historical Park (upper New Mexico) and Coronado National Memorial (southeast Arizona) next year – I’ve been to Carbrillo National Memorial but I’ll revisit the site later this year- near San Diego.

Matanzas means “massacre” in Spanish. Fort Matanzas was built by the Spanish to protect a water approach to St. Augustine up the Matanzas River. Throughout the late 16^th Century France was wracked by religious warfare between Catholics and Protestants (Huguenots). The French planted a colony at Fort Caroline (visited 8 Dec 14) on the St. John’s River just north of present day Jacksonville, Florida – 38 miles from St. Augustine. The Spanish who had claimed ownership of Florida since Ponce d Leon in 1513 were alarmed. In 1565, King Phillip II of Spain sent Pedro Menendez to rid Florida of the French menace. Menendez founded St. Augustine and began to build a fort. However, the French had decided to attack St. Augustine first by sea. The ships were hit by a storm on September 11, 1565. Menendez taking advantage of the storm marched north to Fort Caroline and captured the now lightly guarded fort and killed 130 civilians and soldiers. The women and children were sent to Puerto Rico. Not one Spanish soldier was killed. Meanwhile the French ships were wrecked on shore near present day Daytona Beach. They marched north only to be stopped at an inlet south of St. Augustine. Menendez convinced them to surrender – never promising to spare their lives. He later had they all but 16 killed – not because they were French but because they were Lutereanos (Protestants). Hence, the name of the place “mantanzas.” The fort was built in the late 1600’s and improved upon in the 1700’s. It was owned by the Spanish, the English and later, in 1821, the Americans.

The history of Hernando de Soto and Francisco Vasquez de Coronado is interesting. Both mounted expeditions to find gold. Neither found gold. However, their wanderings through what would become the south and southwest United States took years and profoundly affected the culture of Native Americans. De Soto’s group (1539-1543) were the first Europeans to view the Mississippi River; Coronado’s group (1540-1542) was looking for the fabled “seven cities of gold,” which turned out to be Pueblo villages and they were not made of gold – were the first to view the Grand Canyon.

Juan Cabrillo’s voyage (1542-1543) sailed up the California coast perhaps as far as Oregon laying the foundation for future Spanish development of southern California.

De Soto and Cabrillo died while on their quest.

TUESDAY March 3, 2015

WEATHER: cloudy and in the 60’s most of the day, the sun did come out at 1615 but only along the gulf shore – rained at night and in the morning

TRAVEL: Oak Grove Campground NAS Pensacola, Fort Barrancas, Advanced Redoubt, Pensacola FL, Gulf Breeze FL, Pensacola Beach FL, Naval Live Oaks, Opal Beach, Fort Pickens

172 GULF ISLANDS NATIONAL SEASHORE, Pensacola, Florida

This was another pleasant surprise – I expected gulf shores and beaches but the three coastal forts were unexpected. Gulf Islands National Seashore is an area of white beaches, coastal marshes, trails and historic forts. Gulf Shores National Seashore has 12 areas and stretches 160 miles from Fort Walton Beach, Florida west to Cat Island, Mississippi. The National Seashore was established by Congress in 1971.

These are barrier islands, like many of the sites I visited along the Atlantic Ocean, formed by waves, winds and fluctuating sea levels. Longshore currents wear away the eastern ends and build up western ends. Storms also rearrange island shapes. Changes are constant, slowed only by the protective covering of grasses and the dunes and island interiors.

FORT BARRANCAS is located on Naval Air Station Pensacola. The site was seized from the British by General Andrew Jackson in 1814, then given back to the Spanish. Florida became part of the US in 1821.

This is a fort well maintained and restored by the NPS. There are plenty of places for kids to explore. Enjoy the labyrinth of tunnels, arches, and rifle openings in the walls of the scarp and counterscarp facing the dry moat. Soldiers lived outside the fort – it was not designed as permanent quarters. There is a tunnel that leads from the scarp under the dry moat to the counterscarp.

Spanish Water Battery

Water Battery from Gun Platform

There is also a tunnel leading to the Spanish built Fort San Antonio, now referred to as the Water Battery. This was built in 1797 – close to water level. It was designed for cannon shot to skip across the water to hit ships in their rigging or at the waterline. It is similar in design to Fort Matanzas but much larger.

Construction of Fort Barrancas was begun in 1839-40 as part of 3 forts designed to protect Pensacola Bay and the Pensacola Navy Yard. The other two forts were Fort Pickens and Fort McRee. All three forts were designed by Army Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten. The forts were constructed under the supervision of CPT William H. Chase. The manpower used to construct the forts was slave labor.

BARRANCAS IN THE CIVIL WAR

January 5, 1861 Alabama State troops seize Fort Morgan on Mobile Bay. At Fort Barrancas 1LT Adam J. Slemmer and his second in command 2LT Jeremiah H. Gilman confers with Commodore James Armstrong about a rumor of a possible takeover by Florida Militia. Part of the Field Artillery Company is moved into Fort Barrancas.

January 8, 1861 a group of men approach Fort Barrancas. They are fired upon when they fail to answer the challenge. Possibly, the first shots fired by Federals during the Civil War.

January 9, 1861 Instructions from Washington indicate to take all possible measures to protect the forts from seizure. Part of Slemmer’s command boards the storeship Supply and are ferried to Santa Rosa Island. The command begins to prepare Fort Pickens for defense.

January 10, 1861 all of Slemmer’s company and 31 seamen from the Navy Yard along with powder and ammunition are ferried to Santa Rosa Island. Only 38 marines and 38 sailors are left to defend the Navy Yard.

January 12, 1861 Florida Militia COL Tennant Lomax with a force of 300-800 advance on the Navy Yard. Commodore Armstrong surrenders. In the afternoon, three officers of the militia and an employee of the Navy Yard who knew Slemmer & Gilman demand a peaceable surrender of Fort Pickens. Slemmer refuses. There is no attack on the fort. It has been said that “there is little doubt that a determined assault by the South could have overwhelmed the little garrison and taken Fort Pickens.”

Layout of Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island - Designed to protect the entrance not to attack the mainland and Fort Barrancas

April 1861 – Lincoln sends reinforcements to Fort Pickens.

Fort Barrancas
Counterscarp Rifle Firing Ports

Summer 1861 – Confederate Gen Braxton Bragg ring the shore of the Navy Yard to Fort McRee. In addition to the guns in Forts Barrancas and McRee, eighteen other batteries face Fort Pickens.

October 9, 1861 One-thousand Confederates make a night landing on Santa Rosa Island. The Battle of Santa Rosa Island ensues, where the Confederates overrun Camp Brown located east of Fort Pickens scattering the men of the 6^th NY VOL INF. Reinforcements from the fort stop the confederate advance. The Southerners retreat to the mainland.

22-23 Nov 1861 In response to the confederate attack, the federals bombard the mainland. The federal warships Niagara and Richmond participate. Fort McRee is all but destroyed by the federal warships.

1 Jan 1862 A second bombardment involves only the land batteries of Fort Pickens and Fort Barrancas. The union forces were not strong enough to follow on with a land assault.

The need for troops in other theatres results in the abandonment of Fort Barrancas by the confederates. On May 10, 1862 the US flag was again raised over Fort Barrancas.

ADVANCED REDOUBT is also located on Naval Air Station Pensacola. It was built between 1845 and 1870 as part of the defensive network for the Pensacola Navy Yard. Forts Barrancas, Pickens and McRee protected the entrance to the harbor. The Advanced Redoubt was constructed to defend the northern side of the peninsula on which the Navy Yard was located.

The design of the Advanced Redoubt exhibits the idea of a defense in depth. As an attack began to beat back the defenders, the attacking soldiers would meet new obstacles to their progress. The goal was to make an assault as costly as possible before they could gain access to Fort Barrancas and Navy Yard beyond.

On October 8, 1863 Confederate BG Clanton led an attack against Fort Barrancas defended by the 14^th Regt United States Colored Troops and the 7^th VT Infantry. After a brief skirmish, the 200 confederates retired into the woods.

NAVAL LIVE OAKS Visitor Center is located on Santa Rosa Island east of Pensacola Beach. There is no such tree as a “naval live oak” but there are “live oaks.” This is home to the first federal tree farm in 1828. “Live oak” is an extremely dense wood and was the “stuff” that the U.S.S. Constitution “Old Ironsides,” was made of. Of course, “Old Ironsides” was built before 1828. It was built with live oak from New England. The federal government used the Florida live oak tree farm as a source of wood for naval ships.

President John Adams (I visited John Adams home in Braintree, MA on September 8, 2014. He was president 1797-1801, his VP was Thomas Jefferson. His son John Quincy Adams, President from 1825-1829) called the US Navy “wooden walls” and considered the Navy the first line of defense form foreign invasion. Naval Live Oaks now encompasses 1700 acres of trails and beach.

OPAL BEACH is east of the Naval Live Oaks Visitor center, after exiting Pensacola Beach the Santa Rosa Area of Gulf Islands National Seashore is almost all beach on a narrow strip of land with the road leading down the center - lots of sand and beach, not much else.

FORT PICKENS was named after BG Andrew Pickens of the South Carolina State Troops in the American Revolution. Located on the western end of Santa Rosa Island, it was constructed in 1829 as a five sided figure with two of the sides, facing the channel. There is a fee to enter this area.

Fort Pickens Facing the Gulf - which was much closer 175 years ago

Battery Pensacola within Fort Pickens

Like many of the forts of the time, the five-sided, originally five-bastioned fort was of superior brick masonry. Approximately 21, 500,000 were used in the construction of Fort Pickens. Arch construction contributed to the strength and stability of the fort. This location like Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie in SC was “upgraded” at the end of the 19^th century as the Endicott Board initiated a major program for the rebuilding of coastal defenses. There is a

black painted, concrete Battery Pensacola in the middle of the parade. It was armed with 2 12” seacoast guns on disappearing carriages. The guns and carriages have been removed the black concrete remains.

On October 25, 1886, sixteen Apache men arrived in Pensacola by train and were ferried to Fort Pickens. These 16 included the Chiricahua Apache Medicine Man Geronimo. Their wives and children along with 400 other ChIricahua and Warm Springs Apaches were taken to Fort Marion (Castillo De Marcos) in St. Augustine. Included in the 16 was Naiche, the youngest son of Cochise and hereditary chief of the Chiricachua. The wives and children of the 16 men were united at Fort Pickens on April 27, 1887. The Apaches were moved for the final time to a reservation of 50,000 at Fort Sill, OK. Geronimo died there in 1909. The Chiricahua were freed in 1913. Some chose to remain at Fort Sill, others including Naiche, went on to live on the Mescalero Reservation of New Mexico.

There are self-guided tours of Fort Pickens and Coast Artillery positions available. This is another place where the kids can roam and explore the tunnels of history. There is a campground (no electricity) in the park.

WEDNESDAY March 4, 2015

WEATHER: rained last night – still dripping from the trees, cloudy over the land – clear over the Gulf - in the 60’s – high of 72 – partly cloudy

TRAVEL: just around NAS Pensacola

Pensacola Lighthouse

Other sights to see at Naval Air Station Pensacola are the National Naval Aviation Museum and the Pensacola Lighthouse & Museum. I’ve seen enough lighthouses but I did stop by the Naval Aviation Museum. I took a 1 ½ tour that took 3 hours. The guide we had was good but not as good as the one I had at the National Air Force Museum at Wright-Patterson AFB in Dayton, OH. This museum is good but again, not as good as the National Air Force Museum.

There is a lot devoted to early sea/float planes – the planes of WWI and airpower at sea, the carriers and aircraft of WWII in the Pacific. It’s worth the stop – plan for at least 4-5 hours - a full day. There is also an IMAX that I didn’t have time to visit. Plenty of simulators for the kids to enjoy.

NAS Pensacola is home to the Blue Angels. When in town you can see them practice.

THURSDAY March 5, 2015

WEATHER: rained last night – still dripping from the trees, cloudy over the land – clear over the Gulf – 69 until 0830 – then rain – by 0900 drizzle and it was 50 and windy – 38 when I got to Maxwell-Gunter AFB, Montgomery, AL.

TRAVEL: Oak Grove Campground Pensacola to Maxwell-Gunter Recreation Area, Dadeville,

Maxwell Rec Area - Closed

AL to Maxwell-Gunter FamCamp, Montgomery, AL – on the air base. A total of 300 miles and 7 hours. I turned a 180 mile 3 1/2 hr trip into 300 miles and 7 hours after I made the error of going to the Rec Area ILO the FAMCAMP. Same thing I did at Pensacola but there it was only a 15 mile and 35 minute error.

Maxwell Fam Camp Entrance

Maxwell-Gunter FAMCAMP is hard to locate. The guard at the gate was of no help. After you enter the Main Gate on Maxwell Blvd you have to go all the way to the flight line, take a left past the Commissary and BX until just before the Bell St. Gate take a right onto March Road – you actually pass the end of the flight line. Check in was a joke – he asked me what site I was on? I said 48 I’m actually on 49 – it could have been 50 but another guy from WI is next door – the South - good help hard to find . . . . . I checked in December to be sure I had a reservation because there was no confirmation number – no email reply – but I was in the system – I called reservations at the Rec Area – that lady was very helpful – she was surprised I wasn’t steaming - Once here, nice concrete pads, full hookups, laundry and showers - room for about 70. WIFI works here.

Maxwell Gunter Air Force Base is home to the USAF Air University: Air War College, Air Command & Staff College, Squadron Officer School, as well as, a host of other schools for the commissioned and non-commissioned officers of the USAF. .

FRIDAY March 6, 2015

WEATHER: A 3 dog night - COLD - 28 outside – this is the first time I left the furnace on all night – concerned about water pipes freezing . . . . OK haven’t filled a propance tank since November. . .

TRAVEL: Maxwell AFB to Tuskegee Institute to Horseshoe Bend

LOTS HAPPENING IN THE SELMA-MONTGOMERY AREA

Commemorating the 50th Anniversary of "Bloody Sunday," the Selma-to-Montgomery March, and the Voting Rights Act of 1965.

Selma and the Alabama Black Belt were the battlegrounds for the Voting Rights Movement that resulted in the passage of the Voting Rights Act of 1965. Alabamians stood up and peacefully fought for the right to vote. SNCC, SCLC, national churches and religious organizations, civil rights and labor organizations, and stars of the Movement supported the Alabama Voting Rights Movement.

50^th Anniversary CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT MARCH SELMA to MONTGOMERY, ALABAMA I’m in Montgomery Alabama – on this day March 6, 1965 - Alabama whites, calling themselves the Concerned White Citizens of Alabama, come to Selma to march in support of black rights. Klan members have followed them into town to protest their march, and the demonstration breaks up as it is clear violence is about to break out.

173 TUSKEGEE INSTITUTE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Tuskegee, Alabama

In 1881, Booker T. Washington arrived in Alabama and started building Tuskegee Institute both in reputation and literally brick by brick. He recruited the best and the brightest to come and teach here including George Washington Carver who arrived in 1896. Carver’s innovations in agriculture, especially with peanuts, expanded Tuskegee’s standing throughout the country.

It appears that all the rangers assigned to Tuskegee are in Selma for the 50^th Anniversary Celebration – those here were on temporary assignment from Martin Luther King National Memorial in Washington, DC or from Horseshoe Bend National Military Park. The tour was short there were plenty of groups scheduled through the day – here for the 50^th anniversary of the Selma-Montgomery march.

George Washington Carver

The Tuskegee University campus has been designated as a Historic District. It is the only campus in the US with that designation. The tour includes buildings that were built by Tuskegee Institute students and designed by Robert R. Taylor, the first African American graduate of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. A map of the District and limited campus tours are available from the George Washington Carver Museum.

The George Washington Carver Museum is small and the staring place for tours.

“I am a dreamer, who dreams, sees visions, and listens always to the still, small voice. I am a trail-blazer.” George Washington Carver

I was lucky enough to get on the early 1030 tour at 1010 of "The Oaks" - Home of Booker T. Washington. His house was built by the students. They applied their skills by designing the house, making the bricks, and crafting the furniture. Victorian in style and taste.

Dr. Washington's Study

The Oaks Dining Room

Booker T. Washington’s emphasis was on ‘hands on’ learning through education and industry. The Tuskegee Normal School, then Tuskegee Normal and Industrial School, originally emphasized skilled trades, agriculture, nursing, teaching. By 1927 it added a College Department became a college granting degrees. In 1937 the school was renamed Tuskegee Institute. Students from Tuskegee participated in the Voting Rights March to Selma. Congress designated Tuskegee a National Historic Site in 1974. After reorganization of programs in 1985 it became Tuskegee University.

Unfortunately, there is not much here about Booker T. Washington – the emphasis appears to be on George Washington Carver – I’ll visit his birthplace in Missouri later this year. If you want to review or learn about Booker T. Washington, visit the Booker T. Washington National Monument in Moneta, VA or visit my website. I visited there on October 27, 1914.

Both Carver and Washington are buried in the Tuskegee Cemetery.

174 TUSKEGEE AIRMEN NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Tuskegee, Alabama

Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site, at Moton Field in Tuskegee, Alabama, commemorates the contributions of African American airmen in World War II. Before the first African American military pilots became known as the "Red Tails" they wore striped tails as they began their flight training in the Army's PT-17 Stearman bi-plane. Their flying adventure started at Moton Field, in Tuskegee, Alabama, where the Army Air Corps began a military "experiment" to see if Negroes could be trained to fly combat aircraft.

Moton Field is named for Dr. Robert R. Moton, the second president of Tuskegee after Booker T. Washington’s death in 1915. In 1939, President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Tuskegee. Because of Tuskegee’s strength in aeronautics, the Civilian Pilot Training Program located a facility at Tuskegee. This was the first opportunity for African Americans to receive flight training from the government.

P-51 Mustang - Red Tail

In 1941, Tuskegee became the training base for the all African American 99^th Pursuit Squadron (later Pursuit was changed to Fighter). Pre-flight training began at the Institute. Primary flight training was at Moton Field. The ground and area was owned by Tuskegee.

The Tuskegee Airmen shared an experience unique to its time. The experiences of these pioneers opened doors that led to corridors of opportunities for others to enter.

The Tuskegee Airmen – Why Significant?

The Tuskegee Airmen and the Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site are significant for several reasons:

(1) The struggle of African Americans for greater roles in North American military conflicts spans four centuries. Opportunities for African American participation in the U.S. military were

always very limited and controversial. Quotas, exclusion, and racial discrimination were based

on the prevailing attitude in the United States, particularly on the part of the U.S. military, that

African Americans did not possess the intellectual capacity, aptitude, and skills to be successful

fighters. Political pressure exerted by the black press, civil rights groups, historically black

colleges and universities, and others, resulted in the formation of the Tuskegee Airmen, making

them an excellent example of the struggle by African Americans to serve in the United States

military.

(2) In the early 1940s, key leaders within the United States Army Air Corps (Army Air Forces) did not believe that African Americans had the intellectual capacity to become successful military pilots. After succumbing to the pressure exerted by civil rights groups and black leaders, the army decided to train a small number of African American pilot cadets under special conditions. Although prejudice and discrimination against African Americans occurred throughout the nation, it was more intense in the South where it had hardened into rigidly enforced patterns of segregation. Such was the environment that the military chose to locate the training of the Tuskegee Airmen.

(3) The military selected Tuskegee Institute (Tuskegee University) as a civilian contractor for a

variety of reasons. These included the school's existing facilities, engineering and technical

instructors, and a climate with ideal flying conditions year round; and the racial climate of

central Alabama. Tuskegee Institute's (Tuskegee University's) strong interest in providing

aeronautical training for African American youth was also an important factor, Tuskegee's

students and faculty had designed and constructed Moton Field as a site for its military pilot

training program and named it for the school's second president Robert Russa Moton.

(4) In 1941, the Army Air Corps (Army Air Forces) awarded a contract to Tuskegee Institute

(Tuskegee University) to operate a primary flight school at Moton Field. Consequently,

Tuskegee Institute (Tuskegee University) was one of a very few American institutions - and the

only African American institution - to own, develop, and control facilities for military flight

instruction.

(5) Moton Field was the only primary flight training facility for African American pilot candidates in the U.S. Army Air Corps (Army Air Forces) during World War II. Thus, the facility symbolizes the entrance of African American pilots into the Army Air Corps (Army Air Forces) and the singular role of Tuskegee Institute (Tuskegee University) in providing economic and educational resources to make that entry possible, although on a segregated basis.

(6) The Tuskegee Airmen were the first African American soldiers to successfully complete their training and enter the Army Air Corps (Army Air Forces). Almost 1000 aviators were produced as America's first African American military pilots. In addition, more than 10,000 military and civilian African American men and women served in a variety of support roles.

(7) Although military leaders were hesitant to use the Tuskegee Airmen in combat t, the airmen eventually saw considerable action in North Africa and Europe. Acceptance from Army Air

Forces units came slowly, but their courageous and, in many cases, heroic performance earned

them increased combat opportunities and respect.

(8) The success of the Tuskegee Airmen proved to the American public that African Americans,

when given the opportunity, could become effective military leaders and pilots.

Modeled on the professionalism of Chief Alfred Anderson, Benjamin O. Davis, and Daniel “Chappie” James,

their performance helped pave the way for desegregation of the military, beginning with President Harry S Truman's Executive Order 9981 in 1948. It also helped set the stage for civil

rights advocated to continue the struggle to end racial discrimination during the civil rights

movement of the 1950s and 1960s. Consequently, the story of the Tuskegee Airmen constitutes a powerful and seminal metaphor for the struggle of black freedom in America.

(9) The Tuskegee Airmen reflect the struggle of African Americans to achieve equal rights, not only through legal attacks on the system of segregation, but also through the techniques of nonviolent direct action aimed at segregation in the military. The members of the 477th Bombardment Group, who staged a nonviolent demonstration to desegregate the officers' club at Freeman Field, Indiana, helped set the pattern for direct action protests popularized by civil

rights activists in later decades.

(The above information is excerpted from the Tuskegee Airmen Long-Range Interpretive Plan 2003 and the Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site’s enabling legislation—Public Law 105-355)

General Colin Powell Jr - Chairman JCS

Gen Daniel "Chappie" James Jr.

Hanger 2 has an very good film on the history of the Tuskegee Airmen and some great exhibits that trace the fight for equal rights and recognition during World War II. Their stand, along with the superb performance of fighter squadrons, helped convince President Harry Truman sign Executive Order 9981 on July 26, 1948 calling for “equality of treatment and opportunity for all persons in the armed services without regard to race, color, religion, or national origin.” Seems to me that for all its failures, the military forces of the nation were far ahead of the curve regarding equal rights in the US , especially in the South.

175 HORSESHOE BEND NATIONAL MILITARY PARK, Daviston, Alabama

On 27 March 1814, Major General Andrew Jackson ‘s army of 3,300 men attacked Chief Menawa’s 1,000 Red Stick Creek warriors fortified in a horseshoe shaped bend of the Tallapoosa River. Over 800 Red Sticks died that day. The battle that ended the Creek War, resulted in a land cession of 23,000,000 acres to the United States and created a national hero of Andrew Jackson.

In March 1814, General Jackson's army left Fort Williams on the Coosa River, cut a 52-mile trail through the forest in three days, and on the 26th made camp six miles north of Horseshoe Bend. The next morning, Jackson sent General John Coffee and 700 mounted infantry and 600 Cherokee and Creek allies three miles down-stream to cross the Tallapoosa River and surround the bend. He took the rest of the army - about 2000 men, consisting of East and West Tennessee militia and the Thirty-ninth U.S. Infantry - into the peninsula and at 10:30 a.m. began an ineffectual two-hour artillery bombardment of the Red Sticks' log barricade. At noon, Coffee's Cherokee allies crossed the river and assaulted the Red Sticks from the rear. Jackson quickly ordered a frontal bayonet charge, which poured over the barricade. Fighting ranged over the south end of the peninsula throughout the afternoon. By dark at least 800 of Chief Menawa's 1,000 Red Sticks were dead (557 slain on the field and 200-300 in the river). Menawa himself, although severely wounded, managed to escape. Jackson's losses in the battle were 49 killed and 154 wounded, many mortally.

Driving Tour Route

Though the Red Sticks had been crushed at Tohopeka (the village at Horseshoe Bend), remnants of the war party held out for several months. In August 1814, a treaty between the United States and the Creek Nation was signed at Fort Jackson near the present day city of Wetumpka, Alabama. The Treaty of Fort Jackson ended the conflict and required the Creeks to cede 23 million acres of land to the United States. The state of Alabama was carved out of this domain and admitted to the Union in 1819.

In 1828, partly as a result of his fame from the battles of Horseshoe Bend and New Orleans, Andrew Jackson was elected the seventh President of the United States.

Two years later, President Andrew Jackson signed the Indian Removal Bill requiring southeastern tribes to move west of the Mississippi River to Indian Territory (Oklahoma), a journey the Cherokees called the “Trail of Tears.”

The Redsticks were outnumbered (1000 warriors vs. 3,300 soldiers, allies and militia) and outgunned (the Redsticks did not all have muskets). 800 of the 1000 warriors were killed. Many were killed while trying to escape across the river. Of course, the was not called a massacre – it was war. Some Redsticks wanting to remain true to their culture, went south to Florida to join the Seminoles.

There is a driving tour with 5 stops (you can also walk the trail and overlook) that provides an overview of the ground that the battle was fought on.

Jackson posted BG John Coffee's 700 mounted infantry and 600 allied warriors on the river to prevent escape

The Redstick Creek had constructed a strong barricade to across the neck of the peninsula

BG Coffee's allied warriors attacked the village from the rear, while Jackson attacked the front barricade. They evetntuallyt, also lost their land to the United States.

The Creek town of Newyaucau across the river was named for the 1790 Treaty of New York guaranteeing Creek lands and perpetual friendship with the United States - that was before Manifest Destiny - Georgia militia burned the village before the battle, its people joined the other refugees at Tohopeka (which means fort or fortification).

After the fighting 800 Redstick warriors were dead. 350 Creek women & children were taken prisoner

SATURDAY March 7, 2015

WEATHER: Another 3 dog night - COLD - 28 outside – did not leave the furnace on all night –.

TRAVEL: Stayed on Maxwell AFB – a special visitor in AIR FORCE ONE is due today

Martin Luther King , Coretta Scott King

and Harry Belafonte - 1965.

Among many other dignitaries, Harry Belafonte is also expected to attend. On March 24, 1965 - the marchers rested at the City of St. Jude, a Catholic church and school complex on the outskirts of Montgomery, where Harry Belafonte, Tony Bennett, Joan Baez, Sammy Davis Jr., Nina Simone, Frankie Laine and Peter, Paul and Mary perform at a "Stars for Freedom" rally.

Edmund Pettus Bridge

50^TH ANNIVERSARY of “BLOODY SUNDAY”

Sheriff & Troopers

CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT MARCH SELMA to MONTGOMERY ALABAMA I’m in Montgomery Alabama – on this day March 7, 1965 - In what would become known as "Bloody Sunday," John Lewis and Hosea Williams lead about 600 people on what is intended to be a march from Selma to Montgomery. But Alabama state troopers, some on horseback, and Clark and his deputies meet the marchers at the Edmund Pettus Bridge. When the marchers refuse to disperse, they are driven back with billy clubs and tear gas, with 16 being hospitalized and at least 50 others injured. The national coverage of the event galvanizes the country, and Martin Luther King calls for volunteers from throughout the nation to come to Selma for another march on March 9.

Alabama state troopers swing nightsticks to break up a march by peaceful protesters in Selma, Ala., on March 7, 1965. In the foreground is John Lewis, the 25-year-old chairman of the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee, being assaulted by a trooper. Fifty-eight people were hurt that day and Lewis' skull was fractured. (Photo: Associated Press)

Air Force One landed here at Maxwell approximately 1215 CST.

SUNDAY March 8, 2015

WEATHER: cool but not below freezing 35 at 5 am – lost an hour today Daylight Saving Time began – should get up to 70 today

TRAVEL: Stayed on base.

50^th Anniversary CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT MARCH SELMA to MONTGOMERY ALABAMA I’m in Montgomery Alabama – on this day March 8, 1965 - Fred Gray and the SCLC file Hosea Williams v George Wallace before U.S. District Judge Frank M. Johnson Jr. in Montgomery, asking the court to prevent state troopers from blocking the march. Wallace representatives argue that the march should be blocked because it would block roadways, interfering with state commerce and transportation and be a threat to public safety. Johnson, concerned about the safety of the marchers, says the march should be put off until the court can hold a formal hearing and make a decision.

The mayor of Selma, AL, George Patrick Evans, said in an interview on NPR that we’ve come a long way since 1965 but we’ve also gone backwards. Segregation no longer is the law but there is more crime and more people in prison today than there was in 1965. He said it was not lack of jobs – but, lack of the necessary skills in order to meet the minimum requirements for those jobs. Seem like he’s echoing Booker T. Washington’s words of over 100 years ago.

Chapel 1 Maxwell AFB

9 am MASS at Maxwell AFB Chapel – Holy Family Catholic Congregation. This place is hard to find. The Maxwell AFB web site is in real need of update. You can’t find this location on the site. In fact, the website doesn’t even mention a chapel, a commissary , an exchange, a golf course, a FamCamp and no addresses or base map – sad for the location home to the Air University.

I found Chapel 2, but thanks to my experience at Dover AFB I knew this was the contemporary Protestant service. I found Chapel 1, about 3 blocks down the road – a Catholic Mass. Surprisingly, at least 90 people in attendance – 3x those at the Protestant service. A civilian priest here with a fairly active parish.

F86 Sabre Jet

F-105D Thunderchief

F-100D Super Sabre Jet

I had probably put together plastic Revell models of each of these planes as a kid.

“Whom shall I send and who will go, here I am, send me.” Isaiah

Finished several small books/pamphlets this weekend:

1861 The Battle for Santa Rosa Island – David L. Walby 2010

Pensacola Fortifications, 1698-1980: Guardians of the Gulf – James C.& Irene S. Colman 1982, 1995, 2000

GOLF at the Cypress Tree Golf Course here at Maxwell. They have two courses – the University and River courses. I played the front 9 of the University Course – with a cart it cost $26. I shot 49 with 20 putts, 1 lost ball, couldn’t get the green in 2 save my soul – just too long from the white/silver tees. Course was short grass – mostly brown over sand – reminded me of KY but not as bad.

MONDAY March 9, 2015

WEATHER: Not as cold low in the 50’sovernight – cloudy anticipating rain.

TRAVEL: Maxwell AFB Montgomery, AL to Uchee Creek Army Campground, Fort Benning GA (Mitchell, AL)

50^th Anniversary CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT MARCH SELMA to MONTGOMERY ALABAMA I’m in Montgomery Alabama – on this day March 9, 1965 - Martin Luther King Jr. leads another march to the Edmund Pettus Bridge. About 2,000 people, more than half of them white and about a third members of the clergy, participate in the second march. King leads the march to the bridge, then tells the protesters to disperse. The march becomes known as Turnaround Tuesday.

King led a "symbolic" march to the now-infamous bridge on March 9, then led a full-scale march on March 21 from Selma to Montgomery after U.S. District Judge Frank M. Johnson Jr. ordered protection for the demonstrators.

Trailer At Uchee Creek Army Campground

The Uchee Creek Army Campground & Marina is on Fort Benning but it’s address is Fort Mitchell, AL. Nice sites, paved, full hookup, pool (not open yet) lots of space, right now very quiet – also cabins for rent – look much nicer than those at Fort McCoy. WIFI works.

TUESDAY March 10, 2015

WEATHER: 59 at 6 am High of 83 from mostly to partly cloudy.

TRAVEL: Uchee Creek Army Campground to Andersonville to Plains, GA

Andersonville NHS & National POW Museum

176 ANDERSONVILLE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Andersonville, Georgia

Andersonville describes both the Civil War Prison Camp and the hardships, experiences and sacrifices of POWS throughout history. It is home to the National Prisoner of War Museum, which opened in 1998. You can spend 2 ½ - 3 hours here.

This place can be a downer – follow-up up with a visit to Jimmy Carter’s home town of Plains, GA. War is man’s inhumanity to man. Prisoners of War from the beginning of time have endured hardship, inhumane conditions, disease, filth, inadequate medical care, starvation, life as an animal, torture, and death. My getting to the end of Rick Atkinson’s “The Guns At Last Light” where he is describing the inhumanity that both conquering, unforgiving American armies and brutal SS diehard Germans lived, killed and destroyed in the final months of the WWII – didn’t help the mood much . . . . Edwin Starr sang “War – What is it good for?” and he answered “Absolutely nothin’.” George Patton would have vehemently disagreed but I remember that playing in Army mess halls at Fort Knox in 1970.

POW Statue

The 28 minute film is in a living history with interviews of former POWs from WWII, Korea, Vietnam and the Gulf War, as well as, quotations from POWs of the Revolutionary and Civil War. It is done very well – includes James Stockdale and John McCain.

Andersonville National Historic Site is the only national park to serve as a memorial to all American Prisoners of War. Once filled with desolation, despair, and death, Andersonville now offers a place for remembrance and reflection, Here we remember, POWs and honor, their courage, service and sacrifice.

Although Andersonville was the most infamous Civil War prison, there were 150 others set up across the country. Some 56,000 Americans died in prisons of the North and the South. Confined prisoners suffered terribly from overcrowding, poor sanitation, and inadequate food. Mismanagement worsened matters. A Prisoner of War was more likely to die than a soldier in combat. Surviving records suggest some 30,000 or 15% of Union prisoners and 26,000 or 12% of of Confederate prisoners died.

At some point in 1970 I had the Code of Conduct memorized - I am an American fighting man . . .

There is a CD available from the Visitor Center that you can use as you take the driving tour around the prison site and cemetery. It was a pleasant day - I walked.

STOP 1 THE WISCONSIN MONUMENT

· Camp Sumter Military Prison was a Confederate prison from late February 1864 to early May 1965.

· - While none of the original stockade walls remain, white concrete posts outline the 26 ½ acre prison site, marking both the main stockade wall and the deadline.

· - The raised areas around the prison site are original earthworks constructed by slaves. These positions were meant to protect Confederate guards if attacked.

· - The monuments at this corner of the prison were erected between 1901-1934 by state commissions and private groups in memory of fallen comrades.

· - The Confederate government chose this location for the prison site due to its isolation, available water, surrounding farms and forests and access to the railroad depot at Andersonville.

· - One mile to the west of Camp Sumter, the town of Andersonville served as a train depot, storehouse, and temporary headquarters for Confederate officers.

· - The prison site was originally forested, but was cleared by slaves to create the open stockade prison. The oaks and magnolias and pine trees today were not present to aid the prisoners.

2 NORTH GATE RECONSTRUCTION

- Over 45,000 US soldiers and civilians entered the stockade as prisoners of war.

· - Two sets of doors and up to 80 guards ensured prisoners did not escape while men or supplies were delivered into the stockade.

· - After marching from town, prisoners were divided into detachments, squads, and messes. These groups varied in size based on the number of incoming prisoners. Mandatory roll call occurred daily.

· - Items of value were confiscated from prisoners, unless the prisoners were able to conceal them from the guards. Watches, jewelry, picture frames, clothes, boots, and money could be seized.

· - Most of the 4,000 guards came from Georgia or Alabama. Upon viewing the guard forces one prisoner remarked that the Confederacy robbed the “cradle and the grave” to staff the prison.

PROVIDENCE SPRING – In August 1864, a storm revealed a spring that had been accidentally buried during stockade construction. The monument over the spring was erected in 1901.

3 SOUTH GATE

The South Gate was the only other passage to the stockade interior. Prisoners who died in prison were removed through the South Gate and carried to a temporary shed before being placed in burial trenches. The South Gate was also used to distribute food rations and collect mail.

Note the Confederate Flag
In order to both recognize the
Confederate Army at the site and
the broader scope of the conflict. This is
the second National flag of the Confederacy.

4 STAR FORT

· The Star Fort is one of the HQ of General John H. Winder and Captain Henry Wirz.

· This position was chosen due to its elevation overlooking the stockade, giving it a strategic position for control of the prison.

· Cannons at this spot were trained on the prison to prevent riots or large scale escape attempts.

THE HOSPITAL – to the east of the Star Fort

5 The SINKS

· Stockade Branch was the principal water source for the prison. It was estimated to have adequate water for 10,000 prisoners, but proved insufficient for the 33,000 men held here in August.

· This creek served as drinking water, bathing water, and the latrine.

· Contamination from human waste led to thousands of cases of dysentery and diarrhea, and produced a horrendous stench. One prisoner called the muddy creek bed, “Death’s Acre.”

6 SHELTER CORNER

· This reconstructed corner illustrates prisoner attempts at improvising shelter from what they still possessed upon arrival.

· Although a half dozen rough barracks were eventually built, most prisoners were forces to build shelter from scavenged wood, tents, clothing, or burrowed in the hard Georgia clay.

7 STOCKADE RECONSTRUCTION

· While no major escape or liberation plans succeeded, prisoners attempted to depart by bribery, tunneling, breaking parole, or fleeing during transportation.

· The remote location, hostile white population and efficient tracking dogs made successful escape rare. Officially, only 328 prisoners managed to escape temporarily and less than 40 prisoners escaped to reach Union lines.

· Upon recapture, prisoners were punished by placement in stocks or chain gangs.

· A few hundred prisoners chose to “galvanize” and join the Confederate Army. Whether for self-preservation or escape, these men risked being branded as traitors.

Last but not least Swiss born Confederate Captain Henry Wirz was WIA and assigned to General Winder commander of military prisons. Wirz worked at prisons in Virginia and Alabama before taking command of Andersonville. You hear very little of the 1,000 individuals who were tried for violations of the laws of war , at the end of the Civil War. Wirz remains the most famous of officers executed for war crimes. Revenge? Circumstances beyond his control? Incompetence? Following orders? Was it a fair trial? I wonder who the other 999 are? How many were federal officers?

National Cemetery

Carter NHS Plains High School

177 JIMMY CARTER NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE, Plains, Georgia

The Jimmy Carter National Historic Site, designated by Congress in 1987, is comprised of Carter’s boyhood and farm home, high, his current residence (closed to the public), and the railroad depot. I visited the former Plains High School, now the visitor center and downtown Plains. I spent a little over an hour here. Not much larger than Durand – maybe smaller.

Here, I think I’ll let the pictures from the Visitor Center tell the story.

A Pea or a Nut? Not really a nut. It’s a close relative of the black-eyed pea, a legume. Legumes are plants in which the roots contain nodules of nitrogen fixing bacteria which return remarkable amount of nitrogen to the soil. This made the peanut a perfect crop to rotate in with soil depleting plants such as cotton.

Peanuts grow as roots in the ground like potatoes. There are 4 types of peanuts. 1) Runners have become the dominant type and are used for peanut butter. 2) Virginias have the largest kernel and account for most peanuts roasted and eaten from the shells. 3) Spanish type peanuts are used mostly in peanut candy, salted nuts, and peanut butter. 4) Valencias, grown in New Mexico, are very sweet and are usually roasted and sold in the shell.

Rosalind & Jimmy an Annapolis graduate '47???

Jimmy Carter Governor of Georgia Inaugural 1971

"War . . . . always an evil . . ."

Jimmy Carter after the Presidency the Carter Center
promotes humanitarian aid - Jimmy world peace

"Peace is more than just he absence of war . . . "

WEDENESDAY March 11, 2015

WEATHER: 58 at 5 am mostly cloudy, High of 81 mostly cloudy, some showers

TRAVEL: Fort Benning/Columbus area

Great to wake up in the morning and to hear the firing ranges in action by 9 am. Choppers flying in at night – jets in the morning and evening. Sweet home Georgia . . . . . or am I really in Alabama?

National Infantry Museum

Updating the blog, doing laundry, but I got adventurous and decided to visit Columbus and Fort Benning. Found a Harley dealer. I was very impressed, with the National Infantry Museum and Soldier Center. Located just before the gate of Fort Benning, this place is just 5 years old and about 100x better than what I remember when Paul graduated from OCS.

At Ft. Lewis this is "Iron Mike"
On my Infantry OBC books this
was a 2LT yelling "Follow Me'
Here it's an US Infnatryman "Follow Me"

Fort Benning is now the Maneuver Center – a sort of combined Armor/Infantry School . . . but this museum – I spent 2 ½ hours here – easily could have spent 4-5 hours. It’s dedicated to the Infantryman. Admission is free but a $5 donation is suggested – donate the $5 or more – it’s worth it.

This was probably too real for some

The Last 100 Years Ramp is a journey – Awesome!!

When you reach the top you’re in the Fort Benning Gallery.Steps will take your down to Gallery Level and exhibits from the Revolutionary War to the Spansih American War through WWII – the Cold War, Korea, Vietnam and the Gulf Wars. A separate exhbit is devoted to the Armor & Cavalry.

The Mezzanine Level houses the OCS Hall of Fame and an IMAX Theatre.

OCS Hall of Fame

From the Code of Conduct
to the Soldiers Creed

Taliban

Armor School

There is much more – outside - a WWII company street, a graduation field, this is a got to visit place.

“They . . are . . . still . . . alive” Mosquito in my trailer . . . .

THURSDAY March 12, 2015

WEATHER: 58 at 5 am mostly cloudy, High of xx

TRAVEL: Fort Benning to Ocmulgee to ATL-MKE

177 OCMULGEE NATIONAL MONUMENT Macon, GA

The Visitor Center houses an archeological museum. Exhibits describe human habitation of the area from 10,000 BC to the early 1700’s. Emphasis is on the Early Mississippian culture that flourished here between 900 to 1100.

Late Mississippian Post -1350. After the waning of the Mississippians a new way of life sprang up that combined elements of the previous cultures. The culture is called Lamar. A palisaded town with temple mounds, one with a ramp. Villages of this type is what Hernando de Soto encountered in 1540.

From 1690 – 1715 Creek Indians built a large town here to take advantage of commerce with the British. The village was abandoned after the Indians were defeated by colonists in the Yamassee War.

After viewing the film Mysteries of the Mounds I took the walking tour of the grounds. There are several major features within the park.

Earthlodge

Earthlodge Entrance

Earthlodge – This is a reconstructions of a ceremonial building that stood on the north side of the Mississippian village. It was probably a meeting place for the town’s political and religious leaders. The original clay floor is about 1,000 years old.

Village Site – During the Mississippian times (900-1100) many other structures stood here along with the earthlodge. Among them were several flat-topped mounds, aburial mound, and homes.

Cornfield Mound

Cornfield Mound – This mound was originally about eight feet high. Beneath it archeologists found signs of a cultivated field, which is something of a puzzle because Mississippian agricultural fields usually lay in bottomlands. The mound itself was probably a platform for a ceremonial building.

Prehistoric Trenches – Two lines of ditches vg in width and depth have been traced around the east side of the village. Some sections are parallel and lined with clay. The ditches may have been borrow pits – sources of fill for constructing mounds.

Trading Post Site – English traders from Charleston, SC, eager to do business with the Creek Indians, built the first trading post on this site about 1690. They traded firearms, cloth, trinkets for deerskins and furs. Excavations have turned up many goods, including axes, clay pipes, beads, knives, swords, bullets, flints, pistols and muskets.

View of Great & Lesser Temple Mounds from Earthlodge

Great and Lesser Temple Mounds – Relatively little is known about these mounds except that they were topped by rectangular wooden structures probably used for important religious ceremonies. Great Temple Mound is the largest Mississippian mound on the Macon plateau. Lesser Temple Mound was partly destroyed by railroad construction during the 1830’s.

Funeral Mound – Village leaders were buried in this mound. More than 100 burials have been uncovered, many with shell and copper ornaments. Like the temple mounds, this mound was built in successive stages. The structures that stood on top at each stage may have been used in preparing the dead for burial. The present height corresponds to the third stage. Much of the mound was destroyed by a railroad cut in the 1870’s.

FRIDAY - SUNDAY March 13-15, 2015

WEATHER: warm in Wisconsin

TRAVEL: Dentist, Doctor, Great Lakes, Gabby’s Palace, Milwaukee Theater Men of Christ, Wisconsin Chapter Field Artillery Association – St. Barbara Celebration, Mass at St. Joe’s, Cinderella . . . . .

All have the Honorable Order of St. Barabara
Any guesses as which of the 3 also has the 'Ancient' Order of St. Barbara
St. Barbara is the patron saint of the Field Artillery

MONDAY March 16, 2015

WEATHER: 50 when I left at 0600, 60-70’s in GA

TRAVEL: MKE-ATL – drive to Jimmy Carter Presidential Library then to Uchee Creek Army Camp, Ft. Benning, GA

Museum Entrance

JIMMY CARTER PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY – Atlanta, GA

Jimmy Carter was only Presidient for one term. His presidency started with the ‘moral equivalent of war on energy’ and ended with ‘ Iran still holding hostages’ in Tehran. Carter’s heart seemed to always be in the right place. Although a seen as a rising star in the nuclear Navy after his graduation from Annapolis he went back to peanut farming , then politics. His goal has always been peace.

“I am,” he once wrote, “a Southerner and an American. I am a farmer, an engineer, a father and husband, a Christian, a politician and former governor, a planner, a businessman, a nuclear physicist, a naval officer, a canoeist and among other things, a lover of Bob Dylan’s songs and Dylan Thomas’ poetry.”

Another Civil War - BONUS

TUESDAY March 17, 2015

WEATHER: 52 at 5 am – high of 86

TRAVEL: along drive today 483 miles from Uchee Creek Army Campground to Baton Rogu, LA about 7 ½ hours – made good time.

Trailer in the driveway of Jon & Luann’s house – had dinner and of course a toast to St. Patrick

WEDNESDAY March 18, 2015

WEATHER: a pleasant day – partly sunny

TRAVEL: Jon drove to New Orleans

National World War II Museum - New Orleans

The Columns Hotel

Spent about 3 hours at the National World War II Museum

Took the St. Charles trolley to The Columns for an afternoon refreshment. It costs $1.25 to get on the trolley. The trolley is an adventure.

Great friends on the porch of The Columns Hotel

. . . back to the WWII Museum and drove to the French Quarter. Checked into the Dauphine Orleans Hotel . . . included in the check in were two drinks so we met later in the bar

We walked down Bourbon and had dinner at a very good restaurant Muriel’s Jackson Square – the Turtle Soup au sherry is excellent – so was the duck and the Bayoubaisse - - - - I had the Pecan Encrusted Baby Drum - I don’t think you could order anything here and be disappointed – a bottle of wine was very tasty – we shared a rich creamy dessert with coffee

Before

After

Pat O'Brian's
Trademark Fountain

First stop after dinner was Pat Obrien’s – an anniversary celebration - memories

Guinness and Jameson

Afterwards – back to a place on Bourbon Street called Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub – trombone, drums, bass and banjo – a good group – we stayed for 3 sets

THURSDAY March 19, 2015

WEATHER: High of 80 – sunny – rain for a half hour around 5 pm – pleasant evening

TRAVEL: New Orleans back to Baton Rogue

Breakfast buffet was included with the hotel.

Jackson & St. Louis Cathedral

Visited St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square. The Cathedral was flanked by two museums which we visited. The Presbytere’s first floor held an exhibit on Hurricane Katrina; the second floor was a history of Mardi Gras in New Oreleans.

Presbytere
Katrina & Beyond

We also toured the Cabildo primarily for its War of 1812 Battle of New Orleans exhibit. There is much more . The Cabildo is one of the most historically significant buildings in America. Built between 1795 and 1799 to replace a structure that burned in the 1794 fire, the Cabildo served as the seat of government in New Orleans during the Spanish colonial period. In the Sala Capitular, one of the rooms of this three-story structure, the Louisiana Purchase was signed in 1803.

Katina Timeline

This single, bloodless act nearly doubled the size of the United States at the time, and it opened the areas west of the Mississippi River for exploration, expansion, and settlement.

From 1803-1812 the Cabildo was used by the Louisiana Territorial Superior Court. After Louisiana became a state in 1812, the building continued to be used by the New Orleans City Council until the mid-1850s when Gallier Hall opened on St. Charles Avenue.

Following the Civil War, the Cabildo was the home of the Louisiana Supreme Court from 1868-1910. The Sala Capitular was the site of several landmark court cases, including the controversial “separate but equal” Plessy v. Ferguson decision in 1896.

Located on Jackson Square in the historic French Quarter, next to the St. Louis Cathedral, the Cabildo continues to showcase the rich and colorful history of New Orleans and Louisiana. Cross currents of many cultures, ethnic groups, and nationalities have given the city a cosmopolitan flavor found nowhere else in the Deep South. This unique blend of cultures is reflected in the Cabildo’s permanent and rotating exhibits, which incorporate the personal perspectives of everyone from history book characters to ordinary inhabitants.

New Orleans Area Map

Lines were very long at the Café du Monde for beignets and café au latte but we walked the length of the French Market Place and on the way back stopped at New Orleans Jazz Historical Park (had beignets and café au latte on Friday morning in Baton Rogue for half the cost, no lines and no pigeons).

Joan Of Arc
French Market

179 NEW ORLEANS JAZZ HISTORICAL PARK, New Orleans, LA

The Visitor Center is tucked away in a courtyard just off North Peters Street, across from the gilded Joan of Arc statue at the western end of the French Market Place.

A performance park – similar to Wolf Trap - there is no museum in the visitor center – New Orleans Jazz Historical Park is the music of the New Orleans – it is the Sound of a City - it is jazz.

Jazz is who we are. Spontaneity, risk taking and spirit of adventure reflect how we as Americans see ourselves. The story of its birth in New Orleans recalls the paradox at the heart of the nation itself. Drawing on cultures of the world, jazz is a true American art.

A 1913 walking tour would take you to the Red Onion on the corner of Julia with dancers doing the Slow Drag to Buddy Carter’s Tom Cat Blues. Three blocks down Rampart, in the Masonic Lodge at the corner of Perdido, The Eagle Band would be playing its “ratty late-night tunes as the older, respectable people filter out.” Sitting in the corner is Freddie Keppard, one of the city’s top cornetists, blowing a ragged 2.19 Blues . . . . and so it goes

Musicians Jackson Square

Around 1900 New Orleans musicians began “ragging” marches – syncopating them – and introducing West Indian sounds. Jazz was born owing much to the music of West Africa, the rural south, and the Caribbean. The music came together as blues, ragtime, brass band music, and African American spirituals and gospel. Blues was rooted in rhythmic work chants called field hollers. As these evolved into songs, musicians joined European and African scales to produce distinctive “blue notes.”

Jazz – like ragtime before it and rock after it – spoke to the young. The history is jazz is long and has a many known and unknown musicians - a story of growth. By the end of the 1920’s jazz musicians like Louis Armstrong were teaching musicians how to swing setting the stage for smoother sound of the big band era. The improvising soloist was now in the spotlight rather than the collective improvisation of hot jazz. After World War II swing and big bands gave way to bop, then cool jazz. Jazz moved away from the dance floor to the small club and concert hall. But the music has never lost its power to move the listener – or to make the listener move

French Quarter Balconies - across from the GumboShop

Lunch at the Gumbo Shop. Somehow, this was fitting. I believe Myrna & I had gumbo here when we were in New Orleans in the 90’s for her Dad’s induction into the NTDRA Hall of Fame. New Orleans is full of great restaurants – I had Shrimp Creole and Jon & Luann had the Gumbo; both were delicious.

180 JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL PARK and PRESERVE,New Orleans, LA

When asked about Jean Lafitte Historical Park the ranger at New Orleans Jazz indicated that one of the units was just down Peters Street (toward the large hotels) – about 4 blocks.

There are 3 units of Jean Laffite Historical Park in the New Orleans area. They include:

The French Quarter, Barataria and Chalmette. An additional three sites are cultural exhibits in Acadiana: Eunice, Lafayette and Thibodaux.

The French Quarter Visitor Center is located at 419 Decatur St - tucked away in a courtyard off the street. After founding New Orleans on a bend of the Mississippi River in 1718, French colonists laid it out in a neat grid. The distinctive look of the 66 block Vieux Carre’ (old square) is due to its architectural styles developed in New Orleans in the 1700’s and 1800’s. The St. Louis Cathedral, at the heart of the district, is flanked by grand Spanish colonial public buildings.

In 1856 the city erected the statue of Andrew Jackson, hero of the Battle of New Orleans and namesake of the public square. The Vieux Carre’ retains much of its character today because it is among the nation’s oldest protected historic districts.

We attended a 7:30 pm concert of the Baton Rouge Symphony at the River Center in Baton Rouge. The program started with Mozart’s Magic Flute Overture. I know I’ve heard this several times but the brooding opening still reminded me of Sibelius’ Finlandia. Maybe this was in anticipation of Sibelius’ Violin Concerto in D Minor. The violin concerto was composed on a commission in 1903. It is thought to represent Sibelius’ failed ambition to become a concert violinist. This appears to be a new work in the repertoire because it’s debut was not well received an Sibelius forbade release, until his family finally released it for recording in 1989. I found the work to be technically exciting. After intermission, the final piece was Edward Elgar’s Variations on an Original Theme. I’ve heard this performed at least twice by the Milwaukee Symphony – the BRSO did a fine job . . . a wonderful way to end a long, exciting day.

FRIDAY March 20, 2015

WEATHER: High of 80 – sunny – rain for a half hour around 5 pm – pleasant evening

TRAVEL: Around Baton Rouge, LA

Changed oil and rotated tires at Harris Chevrolet, 37,651 miles.

USS Kidd Fletcher Class Destroyer

The USS Kidd was part of the air defense screen on Okinawa on April 11, 1945. Alone enemy kamikaze penetrated the outer air defenses and crashed into the Kidd, killing 38 crewmen and wounding 55.

W5KID

She earned 8 battle stars across the Pacific. She served for another 20 years and earned 4 more battle stars in Korea and was dispatched to respond to the Berlin Crisis. She is one of the last surviving of 175 Fletcher Class destroyers built between 1942 and 1944

The museum is another 1-2 hour visit. Jon’s Amateur Radio Club has a station on the Kidd with the call sign W5KID.

SATURDAY March 21, 2015

WEATHER: High of 80 – sunny – rain for a half hour around 5 pm – pleasant evening

TRAVEL: Jon drove to Lafitte Barataria and Chalmette Battlefield – I bought the gas.

JEAN LAFITTE HISTORICAL PARK and PRESERVE, New Orleans, LA

Barataria
Visitor Center

BARATARIA PRESERVE – 6588 Barataria Blvd, Marrero, LA - Barataria Preserve is made up of 24,000 acres of marsh, swamp and hardwood forest. There is a Visitor Center here with a small nature museum and a variety of trails. They showed a 20 minute film focusing on the Cajun/Creole culture of the bayou. Well done, good music.

The distinction of Creole/Cajun dates back to the 1800’s when Louisiana ceased to be a European colony and became part of the US. Creole originally meant “born in the New World.”

For many natives, whether of French, Spanish, African, or German heritage, it meant “us.” “They” were Americans or European immigrants arriving at the Port of New Orleans, speaking not French but English or their native tongues. “They” were outsiders bent on changing the Creole way of life.

Times change, meanings blur but “Creole” retains its old meaning as an adjective describing the food, music, and customs of those areas of Louisiana settled during French colonial times. Others came and contributed to the Creole culture and in turn were shaped by it.

From their arrival in the late 1700’s the Acadian’s or “Cajuns” were a people apart. Mostly small farmers and craftspeople, they settled in the bayou country where their isolation was compounded by their distinctive dialect and fierce loyalty to family and place. They also were joined by other people who helped shape their culture. Cajuns are no longer isolated, they are admired worldwide.

BACKGROUND JEAN LAFITTE

Jean Lafitte is surrounded by mystery and legend. Lafitte insited that if he committed any crime, it was smuggling, and he blamed it on American laws. In 1807 the US outlawed trade with Great Britain because of the Napoleanic Wars in Europe. Merchants in New Orleans began to run out of goods to sell. He also smuggled slaves into Louisiana. Lafitte insisted that he was a privateer, not a pirate.

The men working for Lafitte were called Baratarians because they used the waterways that were located in the area called Barataia. In 1812 Lafitte was the leader of the Baraterians with headquarters on Grand Terre, a barrier island in the Gulf of Mexico near Grand Isle.

During the War of 1812 Lafitte’s image changed from pirate to patriot. The British sought Lafitte’s help in their 1814 campaign to attack the US from the Gulf of Mexico. Laffite warned the Americans and offered to help defend New Orleans in exchange for a pardon for his men. Andrew Jackson eventually accepted Lafitte’s help because he had men, ammo, cannon and knowledge of the area. The Battle of New Orleans took place near Chalmette Plantation on January 8, 1815.

Lafitte and his men were pardoned but only legend remains of what happened to Lafitte after the War of 1812.

Bayou Coquille

Monarch of the Swamp
600 year old Bald Cypress Tree

Bayou Coquille Trail

BAYOU COQUILLE TRAIL – boardwalk and packed gravel – through the Bayou Coquille, and sighting of the “Monarch of the Swamp” (a 600 year old bald cypress tree).

MARSH OVERLOOK TRAIL – along the Pipeline Canal/Upper Kenta Canal, a panoramic view of the marsh and downtown New Orleans from a raised platform at the trails end. We saw two small alligators, a large turtle and a garter snake.

CHALMETTE BATTLEFIELD and NATIONAL CEMETERY – 8606 West St. Bernards Blvd, Chalmette, LA - Chalmette is the site of the 1815 Battle of New Orleans. The Civil War era cemetery was initiated to hold Union soldiers who died in Louisiana. The cemetery holds the graves of more than 15,000 graves of American troops from the War of 1812 to the Vietnam War.

We drove through the National Cemetery.

Adjacent to the National Cemetery is the Chalmette Battlefield. There is a Visitor Center with exhibits and films that explain the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812.

Chalmette Battlefield

THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS

On January 8, 1815, eight artillery batteries a mud rampart, and the Rodriguez Canal provided the main line of defense for the American troops defending New Orleans from British invasion. The Battle of New Orleans pitted Americans, who were outnumbered and less experienced against war-hardened British veterans.

Maj Gen Sir Edward M. Pakenham’s goal was to capture the port of New Orleans and gain control of the Mississippi River. We drove the battlefield loop road because of time but the 1.2 mile loop can be walked.

American Parapet
Rodriguez Canal in front of parapet

Pakenham led a force of 10,000 British soldiers against an assortment of 5,000 militia, US troops, volunteers and Baratarians. The Americans formed a line behind the Rodriguez Canal. They built a mud rampart and placed 8 batteries of cannon. The Rodriguez Canal bordered the Chalmette Plantation and ran between the Mississippi River and a cypress swamp. The Americans waited for the British to attack.

On January 8, 1815 Pakenham sent 7,000 soldiers head on against the American position. He concentrated his attack on the ramparts ends, assuming they were the weakest points but the fire from Jackson’s artillery and small arms tore through the British ranks with devastating effect.

Many high ranking British officers were killed or wounded in the assault, the attack stalled and eventually ended in a British retreat.

The Battle of New Orleans lasting less than 2 hours, with major fighting confined to 30 minutes. More than 2,000 British troops were dead, wounded or captured. American casualties numbered fewer than 20. Within days the British withdrew ending the Louisiana campaign.

SUNDAY March 22, 2015

WEATHER: High of 74 – cloudy to partly cloudy

TRAVEL: About 196 miles and 4 hours to Hidden Lake RV Resort in Beaumont, TX. I have a nickname for I-10 in Louisiana “rock ‘n roll” – drive it sometime rr – rr – rr – rr and that doesn’t mean rest and relaxation – it means every concrete seam for miles is rr - if you have a kidney problem you’ll be stopping a lot.

Hidden Lakes RV entrance
Beaumont, Texas

Hidden Lakes Rv - trailer site
Yes, it was very wet yesterday

9 AM MASS at St. Aloysius, Baton Rogue, LA. A lot of young families attending – pastor retiring announced his replacement to take effect July 1^st. Travel to Beaumont, TX was uneventful except for the slow down on I-10 – it seems there are a lot of curious people in LA – there is nothing to see but they slow down thinking they might be missing something even when two lanes are open. Hidden Lake RV Park is nice but good thing I’m leaving Tuesday, the South Texas Regional State Fair – right across the street is this weekend. WIFI is Tengonet – slow – cumbersome to get to – once there

OK – best early in the morning.

MONDAY March 23, 2015

WEATHER: 59 at 5 am cloudy – high of 74 – clear skies by noon

TRAVEL: It’s about 40 miles one way to Big Thicket

181 BIG THICKET NATIONAL PRESERVE, Kountze, TX

Big Thicket was the first National Preserve. It once sprawled over 3.5 million acres, today it’s 108,208 acres is only 3% of its former self with nine habitats. It is unique because of the multiple habitats, and the fact that species from other regions converge and co-exist here. The Preserve has a remarkable biological diversity of animals and plants.

There are no high peaks or deep gorges but a lush density of life. Interesting, no Indian culture called this home. The Visitor Center has a short film about the Preserve. There are nine units in the Preserve.

The LAND has four distinct ecosystems:

Longleaf Pine Uplands –prefer well drained soil, but logging and decades of suppressing fire nearly destroyed the species. Rangers now plant seedlings and control burns to maintain this fire-adapted habitat.

Kirby Nature Trail

Slope Forest – beech, magnolia, and loblolly pine flavor this well drained habitat. Canopies of leaves and needles shade the forest floor, discouraged shrub growth and give the forest an open park-like appearance. Not expected on the “Big Thicket” scene.

Arid Shadylands – Ancient seas and stream currents deposited sand here, forming dunes and sandhills. Sandy soil, hot sun, and rapid drainage create a good habitat for prickly pear cacti.

Wetland Pine Savannah – a layer of clay does double duty here. It can hold surface water or block ground water from rising during dry spells. Pine trees with long roots break the clay. Carnivorous plants live here getting vital nitrogen by eating insects.

OF the five species of carnivorous plants in the US four grow here. The Bladderwort, Butterwort, Sundew, and Pitcher Plant. They favor nitrogen poor soils of the wetland pine savannah. Both Pitcher Plants and Sundew have sticky globules that insects mistake for drops of dew. Touching the liquid the insect fins itself stuck fast.

The WATER has four distinct ecosystems:

Cypress Slough – like in the everglades the Bald Cypress trees love water. Their fluted trunk and leaves – woody protrusions growing up from the roots – help anchor them in wet soil.

Kirby Nature Trail Map

Kirby Trail
Cypress Loop
Underwater

Bottomland Floodplain – plants that can tolerate both dry spells and episodes of flooding grow here; sweet gum, hickory, oak, and river cane. Water may stand on the surface for w while rather than drain.

Baygall – a new term for me – underlying clay traps water in poorly drained depressions called baygalls or acid bogs. Tannin from rotting plants colors the water like coffee.

Estuarine Wetlands – below the saltwater barrier in Beaumont on the Neches River, lie marshes, streams with tidal influence and estuaries where salt and fresh waters mix. Estuaries are crucial nursery areas to protect young shrimp and other species before they move into deep water.

Approximately 40 miles of hiking trails wind through Big Thicket National Preserve, allowing hikers to observe many different ecosystems. Trails range from a 0.3-mile boardwalk loop to 15 miles. I walked 3 of the trails.

Pitcher Plants

Kirby Nature Trail - almost 2 miles took about an hour to walk – it passes through several plant communities from baygalls to cypress sloughs. Some of this trail was in high water . . .

The Sundew Trail is a 1 mile loop that passes through a small bog that supports pitcher plants and sundews. This trail is in savannah.

The Pitcher Plant Trail is about 1 mile through pine woodland and wetland savannah.

TUESDAY March 24, 2015

WEATHER: 55 and cloudy when I left – cleared then a high of 77 with a breeze - humid

TRAVEL: A drive of 293 miles from Hidden Lakes RV in Beaumont to Seabreeze RV Park in Portland, TX on Nuences Bay – 5 ½ hour drive. Most speed limits in TX are 75 – I tried to

get along at 65 – not great for MPG got about 8 . . . .

SeaBreeze Site

SeaBreeze Entrance

Seabreeze is located on Nuences Bay which connects with Corpus Christi Bay to the east. It is a nice view of the city across the bay. Of course, there is a barrier island (Padre Island) then the Gulf of Mexico. I pretty sure the part of the park I’m in is underwater when a storm hits. Pleasant place, small pool, hot tub, WIFI works, laundry - OK

I’m in Texas, glad I’ve got a truck but my accent gives me away. Bought a pair of Ariat’s at Cavender’s Boot Shop in Beaumont yesterday – ready for Texas, the west and Nashville in September – plenty of time to break them in. It appears that its OK to ride a Harley with

Cowboy boots . . . . must cut into the HD dealers Gear profits.

WEDNESDAY March 25, 2015

WEATHER: 59 very humid at 5 am; a breeze off the Gulf; got up to 79 – mostly cloudy – the breeze makes the humidity bearable

TRAVEL: It was a 173 mile 2 ¾ hour drive through Corpus Christi south to Brownsville (Palo Alto Battlefield) in the Rio Grande Valley. Some drivers here are NASCAR hopefuls, like in NC - they will pass you on the left to cut in front of you to get to the right exit lane . . . why do they do that?

No doubt I’m in South Texas there are 3 types of radio stations, country, Mex-Tex country, bible thumper radio preacher scream at you like Joe Bien and of course there is the Christian radio. . Because of the almost constant breeze, lots of windmills – flat like Florida except no alligators of pythons.

There are mosquitoes here – and they are hungry – got about 12 bites walking the Palo Alto Battlefield – that’s 11 more bites than through all my travels in Florida, Belize, and the Virgin Islands.

182 PALO ALTO BATTLEFIELD NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Brownsville, Texas

I have an 8 ½ x 11 print from the United States Field Artillery Association, entitled ‘Major Ringold Placing Artillery at Palo Alto.’ He is considered the “Father of Modern Artillery.” One of the halls at Ft. Sill is named for him. MAJ Samuel Ringold was KIA at Palo Alto. His tactic of “flying artillery” – moving the field artillery to where it was needed – literally won the battle. Ringold He was one of 9 Americans KIA. They Mexicans held the field but suffered over 100 KIA - 125 WIA – mostly by artillery..

In every major battle of the Mexican-American War, Mexico outnumbered the U.S. Army. However, outside the battles in California, U.S. forces held an advantage over Mexican forces due to their superior artillery fires.

Because the U.S. Army Artillery possessed a better corps of equipment and used modern tactics, they maintained a tactical advantage throughout the war. This advantage was a major factor contributing to the American victory in the Mexican War.

Three crucial battles — Palo Alto, Buena Vista, and Vera Cruz — were turning points during the war. And in each of these battles, artillery secured victory for the U.S. Army.

The history of the war is interesting – like the war of 1812 - a war to obtain land and manifest destiny – only here tremendous amounts of land were ceded by Mexico to the US..

First clash of the U.S.-Mexican War

Walking Trailes - full of mosquitoes

On May 8, 1846, United States and Mexican troops clashed on the prairie of Palo Alto. The battle was the first in a two-year long war that changed the map of North America. Palo Alto Battlefield National Historical Park preserves the site of this notable battle and provides an understanding of the causes, events, and consequences of the U.S.-Mexican War.

Mexican Lines Red - US lines blue

Natural battlefield

The plain of Palo Alto was a natural battlefield. A low-lying, coastal prairie ringed by tree covered rises that inspired the Spanish name, "Tall Timber." Crossing this expansive field was the Matamoros to Point Isabel Road-the route followed by Zachary Taylor's body of 2,300 men and 400 wagons.

In the early hours of May 8, 1846, General Mariano Arista led his 3,200 men onto this field. The Mexican general set his cannons on the roadway to block the U.S. advance. He also lined infantry troops and additional artillery across the prairie. On either end of this mile-long line he positioned his cavalry. Using this formation, Arista hoped to flank and engulf the approaching U.S. troops.

Mexican Cannon
The Carraiges were blue

The battle beginsWhen the Mexican cannon began firing, U.S. troops assumed battle formation, but did not advance to engage Mexican forces. Fearing a charge would leave his supply train vulnerable to attack. General Taylor held his infantry and cavalry in a defensive formation and rolled artillery forward to respond. Most notable was his use of 18-pound siege cannons, originally intended for duty at Fort Texas. The devastating fire of these huge guns tore at the Mexican lines, causing numerous casualties. By contrast, the Mexican artillery was much less effective and continually fired short of the U.S. lines.

Arista responds

Meixcan Cavalry Charge

Arista attempted to answer by sending cavalry troops against the right side of the U.S. line. General Anastasio Torrejón's lancers swept across the western edge of the field, but soon became bogged down by the uneven ground and dense growth. By the time the charge reached its destination, the U.S. 5th Infantry had positioned itself to repel the attack. Torrejón's horsemen regrouped and attempted an attack on the U.S. supply train, but were turned back again. This time Taylor's light artillery provided support against the charge.

Torrejón's withdrawal to the Mexican line permitted U.S. forces to move forward along the road. But, continued concern for the supply train and a grass fire that erupted in the middle of the field prevented a full advance. As heavy smoke from the fire brought shooting to a halt, the U.S. advance amounted to little more than a rotation of the battle lines.

Combat continues When the smoke cleared, the U.S. artillery resumed its withering fire on the Mexican lines. Mexican artillerymen responded by training their guns on the U.S. cannons, hoping to bring relief from the onslaught. The tactic had limited effect, though the barrage did mortally wound MAJ Samuel Ringgold, mastermind of the U.S. light artillery.

As Mexican troops continued to fall, General Arista ordered a second cavalry charge. This time the attack was against the U.S. left flank. Once again, the U.S. light artillery showed its strength. Quickly re-positioning their cannons, U.S. troops thwarted a series of attempts on the U.S. supply train. Captain James Duncan's fire was so effective that he was able to advance cannons across the field. Only a concerted counteract by the Mexican cavalry halted this push forward.

The fighting fades

At 7 p.m. the fierce, four-hour cannonade came to an end. Mexican forces had depleted their ammunition and withdrew to the southern edge of the field. Approaching darkness and the ever-present concern for the safety of his supply train led General Taylor to cease fire as well. U.S. forces set up camp behind their lines and prepared to resume fighting the following morning.

Mexican Army Withdrawal

The field today

Palo Alto flowers & cactus

Palo Alto has escaped much of the development that has swept across the lower Rio Grande Valley, retaining much of its 1846 character. It is a vast plain of razor-sharp cordgrass, bounded by dense thickets of mesquite, cactus and other thorny plants. Palo Alto vividly recalls the scene described by soldiers in dozens of letters and diary entries.

The park continues with efforts to preserve the battlefield, provide access, and stimulate public understanding of this historically important site.

183 PADRE ISLAND NATIONAL SEASHORE, Corpus Christi, Texas

Padre Island National Seashore was established by Congress on April 6, 1962. Ladybird Johnson dedicated the park on April 6, 1968. The park officially opened on December 31, 1970. So what do you think my chances of seeing a Visitor Center in the next 2 years, at the three sites Obama announced last month?

Padre Island National Seashore cover 203 square miles of coastal prairie grasslands and wetlands. The Laguna Madre on the western side of this barrier island is home to sea grasses and salt marshes. Camping is available – but there are no hookups. Padre Island has 70 miles of undeveloped beaches.

Padre Island was named for Padre Jose Nicholas Balli, a Spanish priest who established the first permanent settlement on the island.

Five of the seven sea turtle species are found in the park. This is a year-round habitat for green sea turtles.

Beach Driving

Malaquite Beach

All of the beaches in Texas are considered state highways – you can drive them – this is hard sand – the speed limit is 15 mph. Register with the ranges first - I decided not to drive the beaches. ATVs are prohibited. There are only 5 ½ miles of paved roads – if you want to see the beach – drive it. There are mileposts on the beach.

Malaquite Beach is named for the Native American Malaquitas Tribe.

Plenty of jellyfish and Portuguese Man-of-War here . . . . be careful in the water.

THURSDAY March 26, 2015

WEATHER: 69 at 6 am – humid – a breeze; rained on and off until 2 pm, still breezy but warmer

TRAVEL: decided not to visit the USS Lexington – but read

I searched for Grand Canyon and Australia adventures on the internet. Finished 3 small books:

With Fire and Sword: The Battle of Kings Mountain – Wilma Dykeman NPS

Victory at the Horseshoe: Andrew Jackson and the Creek War – James W. Holland, Eastern National and the University of Alabama Press rev 2004

Palo Alto Battlefield National Historic Site – Jerry Thompson Southwest Parks and Monuments Association 2001

FRIDAY March 27, 2015

WEATHER: cooled after the rain, down to 49, the wind slowed; the sun came out high in the 70’s

TRAVEL: SeaBreeze RV in Portland, TX to Fort Sam Houston, San Antonio, TX to Alamo KOA

Spoke with Fort Sam RV yesterday to confirm my arrival – but today the woman said I was not to arrive until Saturday. She was nice, but of no help – no overflow available, no suggestions except Wal-Mart. So I checked and called the Alamo KOA. A very nice park, worthy of the 2015 Park of the Year Award – but WIFI is still slow – like SeaBreeze – even my mobile hotspot has a slow connection – this is South Texas - unable to post anything since Big Thicket.

184 SAN ANTONIO MISSIONS NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK, San Antonio, Texas

There are 4 active Catholic Churches within San Antonio Missions National Historic Park. The Spanish missions were not churches. They were Indian towns, with the church as the focus, where in the 1700’s, the native people were learning to become Spanish citizens. In order to become a citizen, they had to be Catholic; that is why King of Spain sent missionaries to teach them the culture.

Mission San Jose Church

The chain of missions were established along the San Antonio River in the 1700’s by Spanish Franciscans. Missions were established by Spain throughout Texas from 1659-1795. Here in today’s south Texas and northern Mexico they encountered the Coahuiltecan

(kwa-weel-taken). These people were hunter gatherers with no permanent settlements. Even before the Spanish the Coahuiltecans were being pressed by Apache tribes from the north.

]

The Coahuiltecan proved willing recruits for the Spanish missionaries who offered sustainable food through planting of crops, as well as, shelter and protection in the form of walled missions and Presidios. However, like many Indian tribes they had no immunity to European disease and their numbers dwindled. Over a hundred years and inter-marriage, their culture changed. Today’s Tajano’s, Americans of Mexican-Spanish and even German heritage (hence the music) are the descendents of those in the Spanish missions.

The four mission churches are:

MISSION SAN JOSE & VISITOR CENTER, 6701 San Jose Drive, San Antonio, TX

In 1720 Father Antonio Margil de Jesus founded Mission San Jose y San Miguel de Aguayo. San Jose was the model mission organization and a major social center. The church had a unique architecture and rich fields and pastures. It was called the “Queen of the Missions.”

The layout of the mission compound shows how important community life was. The walls were used for defense against marauding Commanches. Missions residents learned how to use firearms. The architecture shows Spanish European and Moorish influence.

This mission is mostly rebuilt. A work project of the depression and Roosevelt’s WPA (Works Progress Administration) the Mission San Jose was rebuilt. However, there are several historically inaccurate representations that were rebuilt, such as, the outdoor ovens did not have chimneys and the Indian apartments along the walls of the mission did not have fireplaces. Additionally, a closer look will reveal that the WPA used sandstone instead of the original limestone that was used as the building blocks. Still, Mission San Jose is the best representation of the four missions.

Mission San Jose and Convento

Actually, there were 5 missions. The first mission San Antonio de Valero is commonly called the Alamo. The Alamo is not managed by the National Park Service. The Daughters of the Republic of Texas were the caretaker of the Alamo for 106 years. The Texas General Land Office now manages the Alamo as a State Historic Site. More about the Alamo later. Hopefully, I will be able to visit next week.

Mission Espada Church

MISSION ESPADA, 10040 Espada Road, San Antonio, TX

There was a small museum staffed by a volunteer from Kenosha here. Founded in 1690 as San Francisco de las Tejas, this is the oldest of the San Antonio missions. It was moved to the San Antonio River in 1731 and renamed San Francisco de la Espada. Espada looks as remote now as it was then. Spanish policy required mission community life to be like Spanish village life. To develop a solid economy, the Spaniard’s taught mission Indians vocations. The Indians learned weaving for clothing, blacksmithing for tools, carpentry, masonry and stonecutting.

Mission San Juan Church

MISSION SAN JUAN, 9101 Graf Road, San Antonio, TX

Although before 5 o’clock I found no ranger, no volunteer, the church was locked. Mission San Juan Capistrano was originally San Jose de los Nazonis. In 1731 it was moved to the San Antonio River. Farmland and pastures made it a regional supplier of produce. Orchards and gardens outside the walls grew peaches, melons, pumpkins, grapes and peppers. It had irrigated fields to produce corn, beans, sweet potatoes, squash and sugar cane.

Mission Concepcion

MISSION CONCEPCION, 807 Mission Road, San Antonio, TX

This was the last mission I visited. It was well after 5 o’clock but the ranger was just locking everything up. I did not get to enter the church. The mission of Nuestra Senora de la Purisma Concepcion was transferred here in 1731, The church looks essentially as it did in the mid-1700’s. Colorful geometic designs that once covered its surface have long since faded.

Tem.

The success of any mission depended on crops. Sparse rainfall and the need for irrigation made it a priority to create gravity flow ditch systems, called acequias. Five dams and several aqueducts along the San Antonio River ensured the flow of river water into the system.

The five San Antonio Missions (including the Alamo) were each about 3-4 miles apart. Unlike the California Missions (30 miles apart) these missions had only one presidio (fort) at the Alamo. If threatened, the inhabitants would go to the presidio. From 1747 to 1775 these missions flourished. After 70 years, there was less need for missions because of the effects of European disease, acculturation, and intermarriage. By 1824 the government of Mexico secularized the missions – lands were redistributed among the inhabitants.

Rudy had suggested Boudro’s Bistro on the Riverwalk as a place to eat. It was Friday and crowded, but the weather was nice, I was seated immediately and had the Shrimp & Crab Enchiladas with black beans and rice and a Dos Equiis – with tip $35. The enchiladas were fine – the two shrimp are served on top. Only one bite of the enchiladas tasted way too “fishy.” Service was fast – maybe too fast. I had hardly finished half of the beer when the food arrived – in and out in less than 30 minutes – reminded me of a fast food place – despite the prices and all waiter staff in ties – a glass of water was added to my table – after the food arrived – an afterthought? Dinner at an Olive Garden may have been more enjoyable. Parked literally right across the street in a structure on Commerce St.

SATURDAY March 28, 2015

WEATHER: a one dog night – needed a blanket – 51 at 7 am

TRAVEL: Have to wait in order to move to Fort Sam – if I get there before 11 am I’ll probably get yelled at and may site won’t be vacant. Less than 25 minute drive from Alamo KOA to Fort Sam Houston TravCamp, 10 miles

Observation: Sometime last year I made a comment that the most discourteous drivers I’ve encountered in my travels were in Wisconsin. Well, Texas is just as discourteous – to include the truck drivers. Years ago, Rudy said San Antonio was similar to Milwaukee – perhaps – driving too – always in a hurry – pass on the right in order to get to the left – go figure.

Fort Sam Houston RV Park

With some time to spare I drove to Fort Sam on a recon - Like most army posts – the roads go in circles – and of course the directions the lady gave me yesterday were still wrong – by the way I think I saw the lady when I checked in – a rough looking weathered gal – really weathered – of course wearing boots. I got there around 1015 and asked if I could check in – the answer was ‘not until noon’ –continued excellent customer service. So I said, ‘I haven’t got my trailer, I’d just like to check in now and occupy the site at after noon.’ He finally agreed. A day lost. By the time I got set up it was too late to go to LBJ. No WIFI here – and the phone hotspot much better than SeaBreeze or Alamo KOA. Large concrete pad, sewer, but the water leaks big time like it did at West Point last year. Fort Sam is home to the Medical Corps – so there isn’t much “training ground” but it is still large enough . . . . plenty of ‘students/trainees’ in a whole lot of medical occupations. Seems like this is ‘joint’ – i.e. Army, Navy, Air Force – probably Coast Guard.

Fort Sam Houston
Post Chapel

1730 Mass at the Fort Sam Houston Post Chapel – appropriately named St. Anthony Cathoic Community. A retired COL priest/chaplain said the mass and he did have a short homily after reading of the passion. He just wanted to be sure we got – his theme was that the ‘apostles didn’t’ . . . . . seems like a ‘happening’ community – SADR supper tomorrow evening 1600 - a learning opportunity and a presentation on the Shroud of Turin on Wednesday – all invited.

SUNDAY March 29, 2015

WEATHER: 56 at 5 am; clear – got up to 86

TRAVEL: About 73 miles to LBJ Ranch – then through Johnsonville to Austin and the LBJ Presidential Library another 75 miles back to San Antonio

Two major sites visited today The LBJ National Historic Site and the LBJ Presdiential Library. Allow 4 hours of the LBJ Ranch and at least two hours for the Presidential Library. It’s a full day if you do both. Allow 2 hours for driving between the sites.

184 LBJ National Historic Site, Stonewall, Texas

This site is a joint effort between the State of Texas and the National Park Service.

A visit here for me was like going back to the 60’s after JFK was assassinated in 1963, LBJ was sworn in as the 36^th President. His was voted in for his first term in 65 and chose not run for re-election in 1969.

I can remember LBJ not being considered a strong heir apparent to well-bred JFK. LBJ was country folk, a bumpkin, a political ally but not part of the inner circle – the educated elite. Yet, during his term as president he signed over 1,000 bills – waged a war on poverty, extended education benefits, pushed civil rights legislation and fought an ‘un-winnable’ war in Vietnam. He grew old before his time and died at age 64. A workaholic – he had his heart in the right place – but couldn’t make it all happen . . . . . .

Museums at the ranch focus on his family/boyhood life and the presidency. There is little emphasis on his early political career – from really humble beginnings I know he worked for a law clerk and a Texas congressman but no sure if he was a lawyer or even went to college – at least there is not much emphasis on that.

“ALL THE WORLD IS WELCOME HERE”

Junction School

The Johnson’s donated 900 acres of their ranch and their home to the public and the National Park Service in 1973. They also earned several other ranches in the area. The LBJ Ranch is 14 miles west of Johnson City. Johnson City also has another unit of the park, but as I passed it didn’t appear staffed. Maybe I missed something . . . . . . at the LBJ State Park and Historic Site Visitor Center I watched a moved produced by NBC and aired in May 1965 – it may have been entitled “The Hill Country – LBJ’s Texas.” A 26 minute film it has LBJ and a reporter touring the ranch and Texas White House in one of his white Lincoln Continentals.

A driving tour will take you through a portion of the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historic Park and the Texas White House. The doormat at the Johnson home reads “All the World Is Welcome Here.”

Ladybird - LBJ Gravestones

Birthplace Home

The driving tour will take you past the Sauer Beckman Living History Farm where life in 1918 is re-enacted. The Junction School is the one room school where 4 year old Lyndon went to school LBJ returned 53 years later to sign the Elementary and Secondary Education Act.

A reconstructed LBJ Birthplace is on the site where Lyndon Baines was born on August 27, 1908 to Sam and Rebekah Johnson. The house was rebuilt in 1964 and used as a guest house. Across from the birthplace is the Johnson Family Cemetery. Generations of Johnson’s are buried here.

Sam Sr. and Eliza, the President’s grandparents who first home had been in Johnson Settlement (City) lived their lives out in this modest farmhouse.

LBJ Ranch 'Texas Whitehouse'

The original rock farmhouse was enlarged over the years to become the Texas White House. Johnson was a president not from the East and the first to have the advantage of air travel and improved communications – he often came here and conducted almost ¼ of business as presdident here at the Texas White House.. Rangers give tours of the house, no photos allowed, for $3.

Texas Traffic – not much has changed since my last visit to Austin for NGAUS – gogogogogogog – slow slow slow gogo- sloooooow – gogogogogogogog – ‘and so it goes’

LBJ PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY, Austin, Texas

Johnson said, “ . . . education is the passport from poverty” and that reminds me of Booker T. Washington – he also believed the same thing and is reason why he founded Tuskegee. As part of LBJ’s “Great Society” LBJ supported education, waged a war on poverty, supported the arts, and environmentalist. Quite a bit of legislation was passed while he was simultaneously waging an ‘unwinnable’ war in Vietnam. The exhibits and films at the Presidential Library primarily focus on his years in the White House.

JFK's VP

The "Great Society"

LBJ's Political Career

The Library itself is on the grounds of Texas University in Austin. Exhibits are on levels 3, 4, and 10. The remainder is a collection of papers and recordings. LBJ was very fond of the telephone and used it often. Many of his phone conversations are taped and available for visitors to listen to both here and at the LBJ ranch.

MONDAY March 30, 2015

WEATHER: 61` for low, cloudy high of 78

St. Mary's University
Old Main Building

TRAVEL: St. Mary’s University and the Alamo (downtown San Antonio)

In Rudy's Office
St. Mary's University

Continued reading the NPS San Antonio Missions.

I met Rudy at St. Mary’s University. He gave me a tour of the campus. We ate at a “puffy taco” place. He drove me around San Antonio, downtown the Alamo, the Menger Hotel, the old German District, Central High School, a short stop at his home and back to the campus.

Mission San Antonio de Valero (The Alamo)

The formal founding of the mission took place May 1, 1718. Four days later the Presidio of San Antonio de Bexar was established nearby. Bexar honored the Duke of Bexar, a respected Spanish military hero.

The Franciscans brought with them several families of Christianized Indians from a mission on the Rio Grande. The site of the mission was changed several times until the final location was chosen. Work on the stone church known today as the Alamo was begun in 1744. Its keystone bears the date 1758 but was still unfinished in 1793.

After secularization the compound was used to house soldiers and families. Apparently, much of this soldier company had been recruited from a small pueblo called El Alamo de Parras, and many now assume that the common name of the mission as “El Alamo” stems from this. The Texas revolutionaries used the mission as a fort when the famous siege and battle began Febraury 23 – March 6, 1836.

Alamo Monument Travis - Crockett

A tourist spot – this is not the place to learn about the San Antonio missions – the plaza is a park with the Alamo (the remains of the church) as the focal point. Just the same I had to make the visit. I unsuccessfully, tried to view a 15 minute film twice – a small viewing room – so Igot hooked and bought the John Wayne version of “The Alamo” at the gift shop – a double box set also included “The Magnificent Seven” - - - - so Wayne played Crocket, Laurence Harvey was LTC Travis, Richard Boone was Sam Houston, and Richard Widmark played Jim Bowie. As I remember John Wayne produced the movie and painstakingly recreated the San Antonio and Alamo set as it would have looked in 1836.

‘Thirteen Days of Glory’

Below taken from the Alamo’s website. A brief timeline of the 13 days of the Siege of Alamo:

DAY 1: February 23, 1836 Mexican dictator General Antonio López de Santa Anna and his troops arrive at San Antonio and begin siege preparations at the Alamo. Travis immediately sent a request to Gonzales for help.

DAY 2: February 24, 1836 Travis assumes overall command of the Alamo after Bowie becomes too ill to serve as co-commander. Santa Anna ordered an artillery battery constructed on the west side of the river. Travis sent out his famous “Victory or Death” letter that began with the words “To the People of Texas & all Americans in the World.”

DAY 3: February 25, 1836 A two-hour engagement occurs when Santa Anna’s troops attempt to occupy jacales (picket and thatch huts) located near the southwest corner of the compound. Members of the garrison venture out and burn the jacales this night. Santa Anna’s soldiers construct artillery batteries south of the Alamo. James W. Fannin leaves Goliad with a relief column bound for the Alamo.

DAY 4: February 26, 1836 A “norther” or cold front blows in, dropping the temperature and bringing rain. Fannin, returns to Goliad after learning that column of Mexican troops under Col. José Urrea is advancing northward from Matamoros.

The Alamo - this church entrance was inside the compound

DAY 5: February 27, 1836 Work continues on the batteries and entrenchments ringing the Alamo. Santa Anna sends foraging parties to nearby ranches to look for supplies.

DAY 6: February 28, 1836 The Alamo endures prolonged cannonade from Santa Anna’s artillery batteries.

DAY 7: February 29, 1836 Santa Anna sends troops toward Goliad to intercept Texian reinforcements reportedly being brought by Fannin. Mexican troops are also positioned east of the Alamo, completing the encirclement of the besieged garrison. Evidence indicates an informal truce completed today may allow some civilians inside the Alamo to leave.

TR recruited Rough Riders here
We stayed at this hotel when I last
visited San Antonio
Just across the street from
Alamo Plaza

DAY 8: March 1, 1836 A second cold front arrives. A relief column from Gonzales arrives, responding to Travis’ pleas for help. The Gonzales Ranging Company safely enters the compound, increasing the garrison’s strength by at least thirty-two. Finding no sign of Fannin’s reinforcements, the detachment sent by Santa Anna returns.

DAY 9: March 2, 1836 The siege continues. Unbeknownst to defenders of the Alamo, the provisional Texas government at Washington-on-the-Brazos declares independence from Mexico.

DAY 10: March 3, 1836 Travis receives a letter from his friend Major Robert M. “Three-Legged Willy” Williamson carried in by James B. Bonham that details efforts to send aid to the Alamo. In the letter, Williamson asks Travis to hold out a little longer until help arrives. Santa Anna receives 1,100 reinforcements. Travis sends out his last known appeals for assistance, stating, “I am determined to perish in the defense of this place, and may my bones reproach my country for her neglect.”

DAY 11: March 4, 1836 Santa Anna ordered his artillery batteries moved closer to the Alamo. The prolonged artillery attack continues.

DAY 12: March 5, 1836 Santa Anna announces to his officers that he plans to attack the Alamo in the morning and orders them to prepare their troops for assault. Although evidence is lacking, tradition holds that Travis gathered his command together one final time to offer them the chance to leave. According to one account, Travis draws a line in the sand and asks the garrison to make a decision to stay or leave. Only one man, Moses Rose, chooses to leave.

DAY 13: March 6, 1836 Santa Anna gives the order to attack just before dawn. After a bloody 90-minute battle, the Alamo falls. Santa Anna orders the bodies of the slain defenders burned.

Dave Gapinski's Travels 2015

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Jan 14 - Mar 30 Canaveral-Everglades-Biscayne-Belize-Puerto-Rico-Virgin Islands-Tortugas-Big Cypress-De Soto-Gulf Islands-Horseshoe Bend-Tuskegee-Jimmy Carter-Andersonville-Ocmulgee-New Orleans Jazz-Lafitte-Big Thicket-Padre Island-Palo Alto-San Antonio-LBJ

I stopped and drove through Lone Pine Key campground. I had stopped here last year but it’s dry camping – no hookups – no electricity – but still a nice spot. There was a 7pm amphitheater program here – that sounded boring - I didn’t attend.

First clash of the U.S.-Mexican War

Walking Trailes - full of mosquitoes

DAY 1: February 23, 1836 Mexican dictator General Antonio López de Santa Anna and his troops arrive at San Antonio and begin siege preparations at the Alamo. Travis immediately sent a request to Gonzales for help.

DAY 4: February 26, 1836 A “norther” or cold front blows in, dropping the temperature and bringing rain. Fannin, returns to Goliad after learning that column of Mexican troops under Col. José Urrea is advancing northward from Matamoros.

DAY 5: February 27, 1836 Work continues on the batteries and entrenchments ringing the Alamo. Santa Anna sends foraging parties to nearby ranches to look for supplies.

DAY 6: February 28, 1836 The Alamo endures prolonged cannonade from Santa Anna’s artillery batteries.

DAY 9: March 2, 1836 The siege continues. Unbeknownst to defenders of the Alamo, the provisional Texas government at Washington-on-the-Brazos declares independence from Mexico.

DAY 13: March 6, 1836 Santa Anna gives the order to attack just before dawn. After a bloody 90-minute battle, the Alamo falls. Santa Anna orders the bodies of the slain defenders burned.

Wednesday, January 14, 2015

Jan 14 - Mar 30 Canaveral-Everglades-Biscayne-Belize-Puerto-Rico-Virgin Islands-Tortugas-Big Cypress-De Soto-Gulf Islands-Horseshoe Bend-Tuskegee-Jimmy Carter-Andersonville-Ocmulgee-New Orleans Jazz-Lafitte-Big Thicket-Padre Island-Palo Alto-San Antonio-LBJ

I stopped and drove through Lone Pine Key campground. I had stopped here last year but it’s dry camping – no hookups – no electricity – but still a nice spot. There was a 7pm amphitheater program here – that sounded boring - I didn’t attend.

First clash of the U.S.-Mexican War Walking Trailes - full of mosquitoes

DAY 1: February 23, 1836 Mexican dictator General Antonio López de Santa Anna and his troops arrive at San Antonio and begin siege preparations at the Alamo. Travis immediately sent a request to Gonzales for help.

DAY 4: February 26, 1836 A “norther” or cold front blows in, dropping the temperature and bringing rain. Fannin, returns to Goliad after learning that column of Mexican troops under Col. José Urrea is advancing northward from Matamoros.

DAY 5: February 27, 1836 Work continues on the batteries and entrenchments ringing the Alamo. Santa Anna sends foraging parties to nearby ranches to look for supplies.

DAY 6: February 28, 1836 The Alamo endures prolonged cannonade from Santa Anna’s artillery batteries.

DAY 9: March 2, 1836 The siege continues. Unbeknownst to defenders of the Alamo, the provisional Texas government at Washington-on-the-Brazos declares independence from Mexico.

DAY 13: March 6, 1836 Santa Anna gives the order to attack just before dawn. After a bloody 90-minute battle, the Alamo falls. Santa Anna orders the bodies of the slain defenders burned.

First clash of the U.S.-Mexican War

Walking Trailes - full of mosquitoes