Dave Gapinski's Travels 2015

A long break - - - although a long drive today – good to get back on the road.

WEDNESDAY September 23, 2015 FIRST DAY OF FALL

WEATHER: 50 clear – bright stars in the east when I left Burlington at 5:30 am, traveling west I saw a red dawn in the rear view mirror – clouded up and rained from Des Moines 11am to Lincoln 2:45 pm then it stopped for a while, poured between 5:30 and 6:30pm – stopped for an hour then rained most of the night – no thunderstorms but heavy rain

TRAVEL: Burlington to Rockford to Des Moines to CAMP A WAY RV Park in Lincoln, NE. Travel of 537 miles plus 90 miles round trip to Homestead NMon. Set up in less than 20 minutes – drove to Homestead NM in Beatrice (bee-ah-triss), NE about 48 miles south.

An interesting drive past – Ronald Reagan’s Birthplace – John Wayne’s boyhood home – Amana – Persia and the Bridges of Madison County, Iowa.

CAMP A Way RV Park, 200 Camp Circle, Lincoln, NE – a Good Sam park – WIFI excellent – sites gravel – good location – fairly level – drainage good

224 HOMESTEAD NATIONAL MONUMENT, Beatrice, NE

I think I meant to leave at 4 am not 5 am – I short changed this site – not enough time – but then the weather did not cooperate either. The site commemorates the Homestead Act of 1862. The Homestead Act offered 160 acres of public land free to homesteaders. For over a century the Homestead Act fed people’s desire for land and a home of their own. It materialized the American Dream.

Homestead National Monument - Map

With the secession of Southern states from the Union and therefore removal of the slavery issue, finally, in 1862, the Homestead Act was passed and signed into law. The new law established a three-fold homestead acquisition process: filing an application, improving the land, and filing for deed of title. Any U.S. citizen, or intended citizen, who had never borne arms against the U.S. Government could file an application and lay claim to 160 acres of surveyed Government land. For the next 5 years, the homesteader had to live on the land and improve it by building a 12-by-14 dwelling and growing crops. After 5 years, the homesteader could file for his patent (or deed of title) by submitting proof of residency and the required improvements to a local land office.

Twenty-five thousand Europeans, most of them German, crossed the Atlantic in the first half of 1862. The precise number of immigrants who followed with the intention to ‘homestead’ or how many fist worked in cities before the ‘land fever’ caught them is unknown.

By 1870, ¼ of the population of Nebraska was foreign born. By the turn of the century over 2,000,000 Anglo-Americans, Swedes, Italians, Danes, Finlanders, Hollanders, Icelanders, Hungarians, Russians, Bohemians, Poles and Ukranians had relocated to the Great Plains – homesteading’s heart. “Free land,” but also civil freedom, the perception of unlimted resources, independence, and a chance for free education drove the “briskness of immigration.”

Tall Grass Prairie - raining - I would have liked to walk this trail

There are 3 parts to Homestead National Monument. 1) The Heritage Center which has exhibits, a bookstore and a film (this was closed by the time I got there). 2) The Education Center has an exhibit of farm implements and a small bookstore. 3) Trails ( when I was done at the Education Center it began to rain again.) Walking through a restored prairie seemed inviting – but not in the rain.

Congress repealed the Homestead Act for the lower 48 states in 1976; Alaska in 1986. The last Homestead patent was issued in 1988. Homestead National Monument was established in 1936.

THURSDAY September 24, 2015

WEATHER: 68 and heavy rain at 5 am – got sunny with a breeze – up to 82

TRAVEL: Continued west on I-80 from Lincoln, NE to Cheyenne KOA, Cheyenne, WY – a trip of 445 miles 7 ½ hours but gained an hour by crossing into Mountain Daylight Time (MDT). Not much to see except high plains along I-80 in eastern WY. No towns, no gas stations . . .

High plains – high desert – and past a town called Sydney along I-80 is Cabela’s World Headquarters.

JOURNEY KOA, 8800 Archer Frontage Rd,, Cheyenne, WY – just off I-80 – stone – fairly level – few trees in the high plains – WIFI slow

FRIDAY September 25, 2015

Lyman KOA Wyoming

WEATHER: 45 at 5 am (a one dog night) in Cheyenne, WY - clear – highs of 82 – unseasonably warm for WY this time of year

TRAVEL: true High Plains – went through one pass 8640 ft EL – crossed the Continental Divide at only 7000 ft EL - the West – cities with names like Laramie and Rawlins – I-80 appears to follow the ROW for Union Pacific – plenty of wide open spaces and the skies have not been cloudy all day. Arrived around 1:50 pm - a 5 ½ hour drive – seemed longer 331 miles – speed limits in NE and WY run between 75 and 80 mph on the interstates. I stay at 65 with the trailer – most trucks pass me with ease.

Lyman KOA office A picture from the past
Don't be fooled by the pool today it's empty

LYMAN KOA, 1545 WY-413, Lyman WY – WIFI good sometimes, other times slow as molasses – sites gravel – some grass – not a large KOA but more than adequate – only 6 trailers here – must be off season

There is a Rest Area at Lyman (Exit 41) and a Stop-N-GO truck stop and the Cowboy Café – none of which has much to get excited about. I did see a pronghorn (my first) at the rest area.

Sign at Lyman Rest Area

Drove to Fort Bridger, WY Pop 325 – Fort Bridger State Park doesn’t look inviting – drove to Evanston – 35 miles – the nearest town for groceries.

SATURDAY September 26, 2015

WEATHER: 52 at 5:15 am in the middle of nowhere (Lyman) WY- there are advantages – very clear – dry might – a skyfull of stars – haven’t seen the Milky Way since I was in the Everglades – getting a whole new appreciation of the Winter Sky – the north is especially full of stars – rarely seen in SE WI – got up to the 80’s

TRAVEL: Fossil Butte National Monument is about 50 miles north of where I’m staying

225 FOSSIL BUTTE National Monument, Kemmerer, WY

Close to the Tetons & Yellowstone
but will have to wait until 2017

Fossil Butte National Monument is located between 6800 and 8100 feet elevation in the sagebrush covered hills of rural, southwestern Wyoming. Wide open spaces, fresh air, blue skies, abundant wildlife and, of course, some of the most incredible fossils in the world are found here.

The fossil record preserved within the Eocene Green River Formation of Fossil Basin is world-renowned. Over 100 years of intensive collecting has revealed a wide diversity of fossil fish, reptiles, birds, mammals, insects, and plants. Discoveries of new fossil species from the ancient lake sediments continue to expand understanding of the paleoecosystem.

Most notably, the quality of fossil preservation is extraordinary, nearly unparalleled in the fossil record. The quiet-water, fine-grained lake sediments, and water conditions that excluded scavengers combined to preserve articulated skeletons (all bones are in place rather than scattered). Delicate fossils, rarely preserved elsewhere, yield valuable scientific data.

Three great lakes existed in the area of Wyoming, Utah and Colorado 52 million years ago - Lake Gosiute, Lake Uinta, and Fossil Lake. All are gone today, but they left behind a wealth of fossils in lake sediments that turned into the rocks known as the Green River Formation. The fossils are among the world’s most perfectly preserved remains of ancient plant and animal life.

No one knows for sure what events led to the preservation of Fossil Lake’s animals and plants but it is thought that calcium carbonate precipitated out of the water and fell like a constant gentle rain to the bottom of the lake. It covered and protected some of the most perfectly preserved fossils. Some of the best come from what is called the 18” layer. These fossils are generally larger fish.

Diplomystus dentatus
with Knightia in its mouth
This fish couldn't swallow
the larger fish - died and sank
to the bottom

Protorohippus
a small mammal

Unidentified flower

Fossils on the ridge

Many of the fish retrain entire skeletons, teeth, delicate scales, and skin. .

Fossils from Fossil Basin are located in museums around the world. Intensive commercial fossil collecting from areas surrounding the national monument yields tens-of-thousands to hundreds-of-thousands of fossil fish each year. These fossil fish represent perhaps the most common articulated fossil vertebrates for sale anywhere in the world.

There at two trails here I hiked them both – rather steep.

The Historic Quarry Trail is a 2.5 mile loop – strenuous – it took 2 ½ hour to hike it. At the top I ran into a couple – the man was carrying a 2 yr old girl on his back – the couples 4 yr old son hiked the whole thing . . . . This Green River formation quarry was worked in the 1960’s.

Quarry Trail
On the way down

Quarry Trail
18" Layer

The Nature Trail is a 1.5 miles - moderate still a hike – allow 45-50 minutes to hike this one. An oasis of green aspen in a sea of sagebrush.

Aspen Grove (Oasis) of the Nature Trail

Nature Trail
View from the top

Nature Trail
Start of the aspens

Nature Trail
Aspens show signs
of deer eating bark

There was also a dirt road that led to the edge of the park – a steep climb – I have a truck so I drove it – worth the drive.

View from the dirt road

Today less than 1.5% of Fossil Lake is protected and managed by the National Park Service. Fossil Butte National Monument is a site that promotes the protection of this world-class paleontological heritage.

The first J.C. Penney store, Mr. Penney's original homestead, and the Fossil Country Museum are located in Kemmerer. I drove through but did not stop. The Sublett Cutoff of the Oregon Trail is approximately 5 miles north of the monument (high clearance vehicle required),

SUNDAY September 27, 2015

WEATHER: 52 at 4:45 am - partly cloudy – setting moon - mostly sunny. Temp while traveling hardly got above 80 but the temp of the truck's transmission fluid reached over 200 at least twice - it worked hard. Up to 85 in Dinosaur - dry heat.

Somewhere in Utah after I had
travelled through millions of years
of rock layers - My truck got tired
pulling the trailer -
I was way down there

TRAVEL: A short drive of 120 miles to Dinosaur KOA in Vernal, UT; another 32 miles Dinosaur National Park The trip through Utah was tough on my truck I think I may have travlled through millions of years of rock formations several times. A slow ride – took 3 hours – my truck was training pulling the trailer. Utah has signs along the road identifying the geologic rock layers you're travelling through - hundreds of millions of years.

The photos below are from Dinosaur National Monument's Lower Quarry Visitor Center - but you should get the picture.

Dinosaur KOA, 930 N Vernal Rd, Vernal UT. A nice park - WIFI works - there is phone service

I checked out St. James the Greater Church in Vernal, UT before I left for Dinosaur – I was disappointed – their web page indicated a full morning of masses and a 7pm evening mass, which I planned to attend. Their on-site schedule was less that fulfilling.

226 DINOSAUR National Monument, Dinosaur, CO

There is plenty to do at Dinosaur National Monument - possibly 3 days or more. The monument contains famous fossil finds, dramatic river canyons, intriguing petroglyphs, and endless opportunities for adventure. Challenging hiking trails, easier hiking trails, horseback riding, river rafting, spectacular scenery. The site spans Utah and Colorado. The hardest part is choosing which auto tour, trail, overlook, or historic area to explore. If I had another day here I would have explored a day trip down the Green River.

Earl Douglass

In 1909, Earl Douglass began digging what he thought would be his last excavation of the summer. He was digging in a geological layer known as the Morrison Formation. Then he noted a large prominent bone protruding from the side of a hill. With his brush he cleaned the surface and discovered that the bone was attached to seven other bones. The whole assemblage was the remains of an Apatosaurus, a dinosaur that roamed North America 100 million years ago during the middle of the Jurassic period.

He was financed by Andrew Carnegie and spent the next 20 years. The site contained not only an extensive collection of bones but also specimens of more than one-half of all the species of dinosaurs thought to have roamed North America.

In 1915, Woodrow Wilson established Dinosaur National Monument by presidential proclamation. In 1938 Franklin D. Roosevelt increased the monuments size by over 210,000 acres. This protected not only the deep, colorful canyons of the Green and Yampa Rivers, but also the many cultural features such as the petroglyphs left by the Fremont Culture and the Josie Bassett Morris homestead.

Dinosaur Upper Quarry
Visitor Center

This wall is huge
all are real dinosaur
fossils

Dinosaur National Monument features an exhibit of more than 1,500 dinosaur fossils left as they were found beneath a large shelter, which remains open year round. There is a tram that takes you to the upper “quarry” visitor center – a sliding gate like “Jurassic Park.” .

Allosaurs - Upper Quarry Visitor Center

This explains how the Quarry Visitor Center was established

Tilted Rocks Auto Tour is 24 mile roundtrip – it can be done in 1 hour I took almost 3 with a couple sidetrips to the campgrounds and hiking trails.

Stop 3 Split Mountain There's a river down there somewhere

Stop 1 "Swelter Shelter"
Petroglyphs - I'm sure
Ancient Aliens
used this as proof of
extraterrestials

Stop 5 The Green River cuts Split Mountian

Stop 5 Into The Canyon Country - John Wesley Powell 1869

Stop 12 Elephant Toes Butte

Stop 10 Turtle Rock

Stop 14 Lizards

Stop 14 Large Lizard

Friendly Lizard
A little off the trail

Josie Basssett Morris Homestead - I walked the Box Canyon Trail

Dinosaur has plenty of hiking trails and back country to explore..

There was a full lunar eclipse tonight. After the auto tour I drove to the upper “quarry’ visitor center. Several large telescopes were already set up by amateurs. Pictures with the phone camera did not turn out well – but the small binoculars and camp chair that I had made it a pleasant experience. I left shortly and the eclipse was full and headed back to Vernal.

Some with telescopes setting up for pictures
near the parking lot of the Upper Quarry Visitor
Center

This is the moon starting to rise
around 7:20 pm MDT
Already the left half is in
the Earth's shadow

This is around 7::35 pm MDT
You can see a distinct shadow on
the left.

Intermittent clouds did not aid viewing. The quality of a phone camera cannot capture the actual. Clouds also blurred the view sometimes. It cleared occasionally and got a good view with a small pair of binoculars. By 8:20 pm MDT the moon was fully eclipsed.

MONDAY September 28, 2015

WEATHER: 58 at 4:30 am – the moon came back - should warm up to 80 today

SUNRISE is at 7:11 AM

TRAVEL: Drive to Dinosaur National Monument Quarry Visitor Center, then to the Canyon Visitor Center in Colorado.

226 DINOSAUR National Monument, Dinosaur, CO

SOUNDS OF SILENCE TRAIL - Utah Unit - I left the trailer around 7:20 am, entered the park before 8 and started walking the Sounds of Silence Trail about 8 am. A relatively good hike – probably the best trail I’ve ever been ion. Some challenges – but there is solitude and beauty. The pictures just can’t do it justice. I finally bought a walking stick after looking for one over half of the US – I bought this one in Missouri. The three point stance is very useful on this trail. – especially on the steep declines. Unfortunately, there is no trail guide published by NPS (a work in progress) – too bad some interesting geology up close and personal.

First time I heard birds singing – only in a few places.- saw over a dozen rabbits – some raptors too far away to determine what they were – a few lizards – no wind and lots of silence.

Some of the early trail was
dry wash - this looks like
gully wash

Sound of Silence Trail - this is what I started to walk into

Only kind of got off the trail twice. Three miles plus – took 2 hours.

Mountains to the left of me - Mountains to the right of me - Mountains to the front of me - sometimes I was in the mountain

You can't see this from the road - I'm really in deep
They don't call it Sound of Silence for nothing

I was wondering if
I would walk the
smooth rocks
Note the trail markers

This is the trail

and this is also the trail
Nice

There is a $10 per vehicle fee at for entry into the Quarry Visitor Center, there is no fee charged for the Canyon Area, in fact this is the last week that the Canyon Area Visitor Center will be open until spring. The tram at the Quarry Visitor Center only runs on weekends when not the summer season.

Canyon Area Visitor Center

226 Dinosaur National Monument Canyon Area Visitor Center

COLD DESERT TRAIL – this was a ½ mile Nature Trail but there were no guides to review for the numbered stops and it was not well marked – I think I easily turned it into a 1 mile walk.

All I can say is that it is possible to make two wrong turns on a trail that is not marked

HARPERS CORNER SCENIC DRIVE: Journey Through Time

This 30+ mile drive is through the canyon country of Dinosaur National Monument. Part of the road is not in the park – some is in Utah – some in Colorado. No guide for the driving tour. Mostly uphill. There are no fossils here. There are 23 numbered stops – never saw one of them numbered but I did stop at every turnout of overlook. Additionally, I took the dirt Echo Park Road . A 13 mile excursion for trucks (1 3/4 - 2 hours). I started from the Canyon Area VC at noon and came back to the Canyon Area VC at 4:45 pm. Allow at least a alf day for this trip but you could do it in an hour or so if you never stopped. Plenty of scenery . . . .

The 13 mile one-way, dirt track drive on the Echo Park Road was an adventure, but not like the Gauley River logging trails. This was a challenge - more for my truck than the driving -a 4000 foot decline and back up. The drive down took 1 hour – up in 45 minutes. .

Roads Visited But Not Travelled

The Green River The Yampa River

Commercial partners run one and two day trips during the summer – none after Labor Day

MONDAY NIGHT FOOTBALL

GREEN BAY 38 – KANSAS CITY 28

TUESDAY September 29, 2015

WEATHER: 52 at 6:00 am, partly cloudy – to sunny 67 in some of the passes – 82 by the time I got to Salt Lake City.

Trailer on pad

Hill AFB FamCamp

TRAVEL: Vernal KOA to Hill AFB FAMCAMP – a drive of 120 mile – 3 ½ hours. My favorite friend now is the manual shifting on the truck – should have been using it out east but it really makes a difference in the mountains. Passing the turns offs for Deer Valley and Park City and seeing Canyon ski area brought back some memories.

Hill AFB FAMCAMP – easy access from the South Gate (Exit 334 off I-15). Concrete pads – only drawback is WIFI available only in the dayroom.

227 GOLDEN SPIKE National Monument, Ogden, UT

This is another one of those places you really have to want to visit – it’s about 30 miles west of I-15 and there is not much in between. It doesn’t look like much but I did spend an hour in the Visitor Center – some exhibits and a film. They have several other films to chose from. There are running reproductions of the Southern Central Pacific’s Jupiter locomotive and the Union Pacific’s No. 119 locomotive. There are two driving tours on the old railroad bed and the Big Fill Loop Trail that I didn’t get a chance to walk. I spent 2 ½ hours here – with the trail plan on 3-4 hours on site for a visit.

Map of Golden Spike - hard to read - but it was worth the trip here - plan for at least 4 hours here

The Southern Central Pacific started from Sacramento, California in January 1863 and the Union Pacific from Omaha, Nebraska. Owner’s Collis Huntington of the So. Central Pacific and Thomas Durant of the Union Pacific influenced Congress to pass a second Railroad Act in 1864 which doubled the land subsidies but little track was laid until the end of the Civil War.

The Central Pacific faced the rugged Sierra Nevada range almost immediately. While the Union Pacific started on easier terrain. Supply for each railroad was a logistical nightmare. Especially the Central Pacific which had to ship every rail, spike, and locomotive around Cape Horn. Most of the railroad crews were run by ex army officers who drilled their men efficiently.

It was a volatile mixture of immigrants, ex-salves, Civil War veterans from both sides and even American Indians who worked on the railroad crews. “Hell-on-wheels” towns spring up near base camps. The Central Pacific drew on Chinese immigrants because it’s labor pool had been drained by the rush for gold and silver.

By mid-1869 the Central Pacific had crossed the Sierra and laid 200 miles of track; the Union Pacific had laid 700 miles over the plains.

Golden Spike Monument

Plaque

Replicas of "Jupiter" and "No 119"
They meet just short of the last tie laid

In a race for land subsidies, the graders of each railroad actually passed each other in a race to grade more miles. Track was not laid on this incomplete grading. Congress finally declared a meeting place to be Promontory Summit. The two locomotives Jupiter and No. 119 – pulled up to the one rail gap left in the track on May 10, 1869. After a golden spike was symbolically tapped, a final iron spike was driven to connect the railroads.
On the Auto Tour Trails explain a lot about the construction of the road beds by both railroads. Take the time to drive them and read all the detail. Buy the trail guide from the Visitor Center.
They had crossed 1,776 miles of desert, rivers, and mountains to bind together East and West.

WEDNESDAY September 30, 2015

WEATHER: 67 at 4:30 am – that is warm – cloudy. Stayed mostly cloudy all day but got up to the mid 80’s. It’s supposed to drop 20 degrees with rain tomorrow.

TRAVEL: Hill AFB FamCamp to Timpanogo’s Cave south of Salt Lake City – about 90 miles from Hill AFB but it goes quick because of the 70 mph speed limit, except during SLC rush hour traffic.. I drove past some other memory turnoffs to Solitude and Brighton ski areas and of course Draper, UT home of ICA..

Timpanogos Visitor Center

228 TIMPANOGOS CAVE National Monument, American Canyon, UT

This was the best cave tour I’ve ever been on. There were only 5 in the group – that helped and you needed to walk a 1.5 mile long trail with a vertical distance of 1,065 feet. The average grade is 13.5% with grades ranging from 11% to more than 20% - it is a steep trail – it took me about 1 hour 15 minutes to make the climb. That grade has got to be greater than the Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon.

You need a ticket for a cave tour - purchase ahead of time. Cost is $8 per person.

At an elevation of 11,750 ft, Mt. Timpanogos is the 2nd highest mountain in Utah’s Wasatch Range. I didn’t go that far. The word Timpanogos (tim´pa no´gas) comes from the Timpanogots Ute tribe who lived in the surrounding valleys from A.D. 1400. The name translates as rock (tumpi-), and water mouth or canyon (panogos).

The Cave system is at the top of the mountain. The caves were
formed by a fault in the rock and water seeping in through the
limestone forming carbonic acid.. The trail to the top is stenuous.

Timpanogos Cave is open seasonally, mid-May to mid-October. It is actually a tour of 3 highly-decorated limestone caves sit at the top of a strenuous trail. Hansen Cave – Middle Cave – Timpanogos Cave. Each of these caves has its own natural entrance. These caves are a result of a geologic fault – not flowing underground rivers like many in the Midwest.

The Timpanogos Cave is better lit than Mammoth Cave and flash pictures are allowed. It is still hard to take a good picture with a phone camera in a cave.

At least twelve recorded versions of the Legend of Timpanogos exist today. None of them are Indian legends – a ranger said the legends were invented by a professor from BYU. Though the legends vary, most explain the curious outline of a woman that can be seen in the peaks of Mount Timpanogos, or the origin of the "Great Heart," a large stalactite found in the Timpanogos Cave System.

Seven Geologic Formations Along the Trail

The story generally opens with a scene of a struggling people in the midst of drought, lacking food and hope. In Romeo and Juliet fashion, our main characters are introduced, commonly as Red Eagle or Timpanac the Indian warrior and Utahna or Ucanogas the Indian princess.

Red Eagle desires the beautiful Utahna, and (depending on the version) will either achieve a great feat or lead her to believe he is a god in order to take her as a wife. Meanwhile, Utahna is either pursued by many for marriage, or chosen to present herself as a sacrifice to appease the gods and end the drought. The two become great lovers, but jealousy of others or Utahna's revelation that Red Eagle is not a god ends their happiness. The tale may end as jealous warriors ambush Red Eagle on Mount Timpanogos, causing him to fall to his death, and remain immortalized as the beautiful Emerald Lake. Utahna is so distraught at this news, she lies down on the mountain top and dies, hence the outline of a woman can be seen today.

A good story. The rangers don’t even mention it.

You can purchase a trail guide that describes the 17 numbered stops along the trail to the top. Remember I said – stops – and there were several more. I’m glad it wasn’t any warmer – a perfect day for a strenuous walk – much more strenuous than the “Sound of Silence Trail’ in dinosaur – but easier in so far that it is paved all the way. Plenty of day

walkers - people who just walk the trail for exercise were there early in the morning. They are in 'shape.'

WARNING
Rock Slides

WARNING
Earthquake Zone

WARNING
Steep Cliffs

WARNING: Rattlesnakes

So much for the Trail warnings - strenuous but safe. Now for some pics of the scenery and the caves.

Ranger at Entrance

Faults in the Cliffs
See the tilted rock

View from the trail

Cave Bacon

Flowstone

Coraloids - Green light is from
nickel in the rock

Helictites

Timpanogos was named a National Monument in 1922 by President Warren Harding shortly after Middle and Timpanogos caves were discovered – hence their remarkable beauty – i.e. not defaced by tourists. The caves were connected by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) during the 30’s by blasting connecting tunnel.s To preserve each caves unique micro-climates the tunnels are set up with air lock large refrigerator type doors.

WEDNESDAY October 1, 2015

WEATHER: Still warm - 67 at 5:00 am – mostly cloudy. The forecast for Salt Lake City is a high of 90. It’s cooler to the west. I-15 south to SLC then back to I-80 west. I got up to 74 along I-80 then the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. It was 64 when I reached Winnemucca – cloudy – windy - - - the tops of the mountains are in clouds. Rain about 4 pm PDT.

I wonder how long it
will take for a package
and several posts cards
to be delivered from this
place - Try to find it on a map

That is not ice and snow

TRAVEL: Hill AFB FamCamp to Winnemucca KOA Utah. A 7 hour trip of 381 miles – mostly along I-80. Still 180 miles east of Reno – this is called Nevada’s ‘outback.’ The truck got another workout – went through Silverzone Pass EL 5,940; Pequot Summit EL 6,967; and Golcondor Summite EL 5,159 all along I-80. Went past Wendover and Elko.

WINNEMACCA Journey KOA: Gravel site like almost all KOAs – fairly level – not many trailers here – off season. Pleasant surprise because it is off season my deposit was refunded $9.58 – best thing to happen today. A nice KOA. WIFI works and probably the best bathhouse I've seen at a KOA - spacious, clean, inviting.

There is a local casino – Winner’s Inn-Casino - a sign on I-80 said “Butch Cassidy Got Rich Here - So can you’ it started to rain – I didn’t win – but I didn’t lose by not paying a visit.

THURSDAY October 1, 2015

TRAVEL: Hill AFB FamCamp to Winnemucca KOA Utah. A 7 hour trip of 381 miles – mostly along I-80. Still 180 miles east of Reno – this is called Nevada’s ‘outback.’ The truck got another workout – went through Silverzone Pass EL 5,940; Pequot Summit EL 6,967; and Golcondor Summite EL 5,159 all along I-80. Went past Wendover and Elko.

WINNEMACCA Journey KOA: Gravel site like almost all KOAs – fairly level – not many trailers here – off season. Pleasant surprise because it is off season my deposit was refunded $9.58 – best thing to happen today. A nice KOA.

There is a local casino – Winner’s Inn-Casino - a sign on I-80 said “Butch Cassidy Got Rich Here’ - he may have robbed the bank - it started to rain – I didn’t win – but I didn’t lose by not paying a visit.

FRIDAY October 2, 2015

WEATHER: 52 at 4:30 am – been raining since 4pm last night. Radar looks clear in Reno – but that’s a 180 mile drive southwest.. Stopped raining about 6 am – road was wet until almost 9 am – after passing Reno and going through Donner Pass - California was a balmy 85 degrees.

TRAVEL: Winnemucca KOA NV – Club Royal Oak, Kingsburg, CA A 10 hour drive. I saw my first truck in a run-away truck path – where else in CA. I got backed up for 45 minutes along Highway 99, where a semi tractor was literally flat on its wheels – Highway 99 is in CA. My truck worked crossing the Sierra – at Donner Pass along I-80. I think it would be even rougher going east – the grade seems longer.

Club Royal Oak, Kingsburg, CA – not a club or very royal – bizarre – WIFI kind of works – lots of sand - it is very dry. Bath house OK – not impressed -. the hot water must be solar powered – i.e. what comes out of the pipe that’s it – unacceptable and this was “the best” RV park in the area. No lights on the grounds but there is a card coded gate. Here for 5 nights. There is much more that makes this place Bizarre . . . . WIFI so slow it takes 3-5 minutes for a page to load – unacceptable – It’s TENGONET - $4/day – I’m not going to bite. After all the forms and paperwork that I had to fill out before coming here – I expected more. It’s a place to park

SATURDAY October 3, 2015

WEATHER: 58 at 4:30 am high clouds or it just may have been haze/smog but you could see the stars. Temps started to climb and as I did to 6,000’, the temp stayed between 59-61 degrees. It was 85 when I came back down into the San Joachim Valley around 5:45 pm.

TRAVEL: Club Royal Oak to St. Joseph’s in Selma, CA to Sequoia via CA Hwy 198 – Generals Highway to Kings Canyon and return to Club Royal Oak via CA Hwy 180. About 55-60 miles to either park from Club Royal Oak via Hwy 198 or Hwy 180. I left around 7:30 am and got back at 6:15pm.

The Army Corps of Engineers (ACOE)has a number of Recreation Areas along CA Hwy 198. Plenty of spots to camp – but primitive camping you don’t want to take a trailer all along the Generals Highway. – the road is restricted to vehicles with a total length of no more than 22 feet.

229 SEQUOIA National Park, 47050 Generals Highway &

230 KINGS CANYON National Park, CA

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks lie side by side in the southern Sierra Nevada, east of the San Joaquin Valley. Activities vary by season and elevation, which ranges from 1,370 to 14,495 feet. – definitely the High Sierra – you can’t drive there but it is possible to use your feet and climb. The parks are mainly backcountry parks. Ninety per cent of the land is accessible by trail only, and none of its 2,600 lakes and ponds can be reached by motor vehicle.

Map of Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. Most of the land is "backcountry" you have to walk in. The Road from
General Grant Village and Lodge to literally "Roads End" just past Cedar Grove Village & Lodge was closed due
to a wildfire burning since July 29 in the backcountry. The fire theoretically could be 98% predicted but a ranger told me,
that this one will go down in the books as following the 2% - completely unpredictable.

Much of Kings Canyon is closed due to a wild fire that started July 29^th. It is finally considered controlled but still burning. Fire fighters are still active in the area.

Bill Tweed, a back country ranger, describes the parks as “wilderness islands in a sea of urban California. These are parks that you have to hike to really enjoy.” The John Muir Trail stretches 219 miles along the crest of the Sierra Nevada from Yosemite to Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48. The High Sierra Trail runs 71 miles from Crescent Meadow to Mount Whitney’s summit, EL 14,495.

Sequoia & Kings Canyon Parks form the heart of the second-largest contiguous roadless area left in the lower 48 states. The southern Sierra is so rugged that few roads cross it; you must go north to Tioga Pass in Yosemite National Park or south to Walker Pass or Tehachapi Pass.

The parks are connected by the Generals Highway – this along with a few stops is a full day.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks contain five unique regions: Foothills, Mineral King, Giant Forest / Lodgepole, Grant Grove, and Cedar Grove. Each area has its own climate, features, and highlights. The Mineral King and Cedar Grove regions are accessible only in the summer, while Grant Grove, Giant Forest, and Lodgepole offer both summer and winter activities.

Mineral King (Sequoia) I did not travel this road
The Mineral King subalpine valley consists of both dense forests of pine, sequoia, and fir and colorful granite and shale landscapes. Mineral King offers 11 steep alpine trails which traverse the eastern areas of Sequoia National Park. This region also includes 14,494 foot Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous United States. Mineral King is accessed by a 25 mile, steep, winding road open late May through October, weather permitting. This area, at 7,500 to 14,000 feet elevation, is characterized by warm days and chilly nights in summer. In spring and fall, there can be freezing temperatures and the possibility of snow.

Foothills EL 1370 (SEQUOIA NP)
The Foothills consist of the lower elevations of Sequoia National Park, including the South Fork area located east of Three Rivers. Oaks, chaparral, and river canyons are plentiful here in an area with more biological diversity (different kinds of plants and animals) than the conifer forests and High Sierra combined.

Sequoia - Giant Forest Museum

Sequoia - Lodgepole Pine VC

Giant Forest and Lodgepole EL 6409 and EL 6720 (SEQUOIA NP)
The Giant Forest Sequoia Grove is home to many of the world's biggest trees. Forty miles of trails, including the paved Big Trees Trail with wheelchair accessibility, invite visitors to immerse themselves in the majesty of the ancient grove. At 6,400 feet elevation, this area is characterized by warm days and cool nights in summer, with cold days and deep snow in winter. On October 2, 2015 the sun was shining and the temperature was between 59 and 61 degrees with little wind.

Visited the Giant Forest Museum and walked the paved 1 mile loop Big Giants Trail easy down a little tougher coming back up..

The Sentinel
Located in front of the
Giant Forest Museum

Big Tree Trail
tress surrounding
Giant Meadow

Giant Forest Museum
Big Trees Trail sign

Big Trees Trail
Wonder where this 'tree hugger'
idea came from?

Big Trees Trail
Giant Meadow
these meadwos exist because
the ground is low and too
wet to support big trees

Big Trees Trail
A fallen tree - it was too
close to the meadow and its
shallow roots could not
support it

General Sherman Tree Trail. An easy ½ mile down but up is a little more strenuous – it is paved. There was a ranger program at the tree. He was good, interesting and I learned a lot. The sequoia’s and the General Sherman tree are the largest living organisms on the planet. The General Sherman and other sequoias are not the tallest, not with the greatest diameter, not the oldest but they are the largest by volume.

Sequoias don’t die of old age, and are resistant to fire and insect damage. Most die by falling over. See pic on Big Trees Trail above.

The General Sherman Tree - the world's largest living cellular thing

General Sherman Tree
Ranger giving a very
informative & entertaining talk

General Sherman Tree
the pine cone by the water
bottle is definitely not the worlds
largest but its seed the
size of an oatmeal flake
grows into a sequouia

The General Sherman Trees
the worlds largest living thing
by volume

There is a 27 mile road trip on the Generals Highway from Lodgepole VC in Sequoia to the Kings Canyon VC. There was a film that I viewed here and by the time I was ready to hit the road it was already 5 pm – decided to head back.

Cedar Grove EL 4635 (KINGS CANYON NP) CLOSED DUE TO FIRE
This glaciated valley features towering cliffs, tumbling waterfalls, and the powerful Kings River, whose canyon gave the park its name. Two prominent rock formations, North Dome at 8,717 feet and Grand Sentinel at 8,518 feet, rise 3,500 feet above the canyon floor. Many trails to the backcountry also originate in the area, especially near Roads End. Highway 180 to Cedar Grove is open May through October, weather permitting. At 4,600 feet elevation, expect warm days and cool nights.

When not closed due to fire at Roads End along the Kings Canyon Scenic Highway you can walk the back country and journey the High Sierra. It would be quite an experience.

Kings Canyon view from the Generals Highway
the haze is smoke

These maps are posted by the Visitor Centers - I've seen firefighters looking at them
I have no idea what I was looking at

SUNDAY October 4, 2015

WEATHER: 53 and cloudy at 5 am, rain – then is stopped almost a drizzle – but there was thunder in the distance – of course the probability of rain is 11%

TRAVEL: St. Josephs Church, Salem, CA and Cesar E. Chavez National Monument – Chavez is about 2 hours (122 miles) south one way. Hard rain for 10 minutes or so along Hwy 99 – 70 mph – I slowed to 65 and groups of motor cyclists from Bakersfield past me doing more than 70 – it was raining – hard – well one of them lost it on a curve – California – always in a hurry.

Royal Oak still BIZARRE:

- When I got back last night there was no phone service – it was perfect in the morning. Now, on Sunday – still no phone service – unable to even create a hotspot. I’ve been here before - able to receive but not send

- Secret to the showers the stall on the left has cold water – the right has warm.

- I thought I got a mild but irritating shock when I used the left basin to shave yesterday. Not a fluke – definitely a shock when touching the water – even on the right basin. Last time I saw (felt) this was getting water from an outside house faucet, as a Scout, in the early 60’s somewhere near Ladysmith, WI. The cause - a bad ground.

8am Mass at St. Joseph’s church, Selma, CA about a 25 minute drive. The church’s congregation is a reflection of the area – 95% Latino and 5% Anglo. This is California farm worker country. The priest’s homily also reflected the readings – he was good – enjoyed listening to him. On Marriage. Bottom Line: – work through it – a promise for life – divorce is not an option. The pianist played a very refreshing, contemplative, “music box” piece before mass as a prelude – he just played and played – after mass I went up to the choir loft to ask him the name of the piece – who published it? He said he just made it up – no notes - amazing!

231 CESAR CHAVEZ National Monument, Keene, CA

Declared a National Monument by President Obama in
2012 there is not a lot here - yet. This\building is currently used
as the Visitor Center - it was formerly offices

César E. Chávez National Monument is in the very small town of Keene, CA approximately 30 miles southeast of Bakersfield via Highway 58. The monument is part of a property known as Nuestra Señora Reina de la Paz, the home and workplace of the Chávez family and farm worker-movement organizations.

Chavez Memorial Garden and Grave site

Visitors are welcome at the visitor center, the Memorial Garden in which César Chávez is buried, and the small Desert Garden planted nearby, all within La Paz. Other parts of the area are closed to visitation, as it continues to serve as a home and workplace for his cause.

Cesar Estrada Chavez was a civil rights

Cesar Chavez - right

and labor leader, a farm worker, a crusader for nonviolent social change and an environmentalist and a consumer advocate. He was born March 31, 1927 near his family’s farm in Yuma, AZ. His family lost their farm in the Great Depression and became migrant farm workers when Chavez was ten. Throughout his youth and into his adulthood , he migrated across the Southwest, laboring in the fields and vineyards, where he was exposed to the hardships and injustices of farm worker life. He had only an 8^th grade education and worked in the field to support his family. Chavez joined the US Navy in 1946 and served in the western Pacific in the aftermath of WW II.

Chavez’s life as a community organizer began in 1952 when he joined the Community Service Organization (CSO) a prominent Latino civil rights group. In the early 1960’s Chavez served as the CSO’s national director.

STRIKE!

In 1962, he resigned from the CSO to found the National Farm Workers Association, which later became the United Farm Workers of America (UFWA). For more than 3 decades he led the first successful farm workers union in American history achieving dignity, respect, fair wages, medical coverage, pension benefits, and humane living conditions for hundreds of thousands of farm workers.

RFK

1968: In February, after several discouraged strikers contemplate the use of violence against growers Chavez embarks on his first fast to encourage his members to adhere to nonviolence. Eight thousand farm workers, as well as Senator Robert F. Kennedy attend a mass to break Chavez’s 25 day fast.. Kennedy gives Chavez a piece of bread and calls him “one of the heroic figures of our time.” Six days after the fast ends, Kennedy announced his candidacy for the presidency.

1968 -1970: The grape boycott is in the international spotlight. Grape strikers spread across the country in an effort to impose an international grape boycott.

1970: Most California grape growers sign UFWA contracts in the spring and summer. Chavez calls for a national boycott of lettuce after Salinas Valley growers sign contracts with the Teamsters Union to help keep the UFWA out of the fields. On December 10, the UFWA singles out Bud Antle on the lettuce boycott. Chavez is arrested and jailed for ignoring the injunction for prohibiting the boycotting Antle. Corretta Scott King and Ethel Kennedy, widows of Martin and Bobby visit Chavez in jail.

Chavez led successful strikes and boycotts that resulted in the first industry wide labor contracts in the history of American agriculture. His efforts led to passage of the 1975 California Agricultural Labor Relations Act – the only law that protects farm workers rights to organize.

A strong believer in the non-violence practiced by Gandhi and King, Chavez effectively employed peaceful tactics such as fasts, boycotts, strikes, and pilgrimages. In 1968 he fasted for 25 days to affirm his personal commitment ant that of the farm labor movement to non-violence. He fasted again in 1988, at the age of 61 to highlight the harmful impact of pesticides on farm workers and their children.

Memorial Garden
Patron St. Franicis

Memorial Garden
Patron Our Lady

Memorial Garden
Chavez Grave

Chavez died in his sleep on April 23, 1993 in San Luis, AZ. His request was to be buried on the grounds of UFWA (La Paz).

We used a lot of Chavez and UFWA social justice stuff in the 70's with a series of Youth Ministry when we lived in South Milwaukee.

GREEN BAY 17 - SAN FRANCISCO 3 4-0 record

MONDAY October 5, 2015

WEATHER: 57 at 4:30 am partly cloudy, forecast 80’s in the San Joaquin Valley; looks like 40’s in Sequoia and Kings Canyon

TRAVEL: I took Hwy 198 into Sequoia; stopped at Foothills VC to buy a ticket for Crystal Cave. The Crystal Cave turnoff is about a 50 minute drive up the General’s Highway. From the turnoff it is another 30 mninute drive down to the cave site. I continued up Generals Highway through Lodgepole VC to Kings Canyon. Walked the General Grant Trail; stopped at the Post Office and then went to Panoramic Point. Back down along 180. Basically the same route I took Saturday

I traveled over 238 miles today – about half to and from the parks – the rest in the parks.

TEMPERATURE VARIATIONS

EL 6,000 60 F

EL 4,000 55 F

EL 5,000 50 F

EL 6,720 46 F Lodgepole VC

EL 7,000 48 F

EL 7,335 44 F Wusachi Lodge on Generals Highway at turnoff

At 6 pm a return to the San Joaquin Valley was mostly sunny and 81 F

Of course – phone service was down when I returned to the campsite. Not a happy place.

229 SEQUOIA National Park, CA

REMEMBER THERE IS A $20 FEE PER CAR FOR ENTRANCE

Entered Sequoia NP on Hwy 198 at Three Rivers and traveled the Generals Highway.

Crystal Cave Taking a cave tour will take almost a day in itself – unless you are staying somewhere in the park.. After an 1 ¼ hour drive from Kingsburg, I arrived at Foothills VC and purchased an 11 am cave tour ticket for $15 – it was another 1 hour and 20 minute drive to the cave.

The cave tours are run by the Sequoia Natural History Association not by NPS Rangers. They do a good job. There is a ½ mile walk down to the cave entrance – about 15-20 minutes; a 1+ hr cave tour and of course the 30 minute walk up the trail. Plan at least 2 hours for the cave tour and walk. There is a difference of 320 ft in elevation from the top of the ½ mile trail to the cave.

The Spider Web Gate was designed by the park's architect
in the late 1930's. It is large enough to let little critters and any bats
in or out. Unique.

Understanding caves provides an important lesson in the protection of the earth’s natural treasures. The Sequoia Natural History Association has operated tours and educational programs in the cave since 1983.

Crystal Cave was discovered in 1918 by two park trail construction employees who were fishing along Cascade Creek on their day off. The cave entrance was covered by vines and bushes but they felt a wind. The Park Superintendent explored the cave with adequate materials and named it Crystal Cave. It is the largest of 300 known caves in the parks. It is the only one open to the public.

It was opened to the public in 1941. The CCC built the access road and cement walkways in the cave.

Crystal Cave has 3 miles of passages. The cave is a complex maze and is heavily decorated with many varieties of formations. The regular cave tour follows a ½ paved path. The tour features large rooms, a stream flowing over banded marble and many beautiful cave formations.

It is a long drive off the General's Highway just to get here

The cave was formed in marble rock that is approximately 200 million years old. The cave began formed sometime between 132,000 and 788,000 years ago. Most of the passages on the tour are only about 5,000 to 50,000 years old. Average temperature of the cave is 50 F.

No flash allowed in the cave. The pics below are from a thumb drive with 100 pictures and items that I purchased.

Stops were made in 5 larges rooms. The JUNCTION ROOM, CURTAIN ROOM, ORGAN ROOM, DOME ROOM and MARBLE HALL. Marble Hall is the largest room in the cave. It measures 175’ long, 60’ wide, and is 30-40’ high. The guide turned the lights out for longest time I’ve been on a cave tour. He spoke in the dark and explained many things about how we try to compensate, in our minds, for lack of sight – light. HE suggested, in total darkness, to pass your hand in front of your eyes – you think you see the shadow – but if another waves his hand in front of you – you do not see the image. Total lack of light.

A good tour – allow an hour for the walk up and down + an hour for the tour + a 5 hour drive into the park and out

230 KINGS CANYON National Park, CA

Grant Grove EL 6589(KINGS CANYON NP)
The General Grant Grove area was originally General Grant National Park, created in 1890 to protect giant sequoias from logging. The General Grant Grove is pristine (not logged) the Big Stump Grove was logged in the 1880s. At 6,600 feet elevation, this area is characterized by warm days and cool nights in summer, with deep snow and cold temperatures in winter.

Much of the Kings Canyon area is closed due to the fire.
Note the Highway Closed ----- most of the park is beyond this location.

General Grant Tree

General Grant Tree Statistics

General Grant Tree Trail is a self-guided loop of a half mile. The trail is paved. Numbered posts along the trail are keyed to a guide that I purchased at the Kings Canyon Visitor Center on Saturday – however I didn’t find all the posts. Don’t bother buying the guide.

The General Grant Tree is the world’s third largest tree. It has a base diameter even larger than the General Sherman Tree. The Grant tree’s trunk tapers faster than the Sherman Tree. This tree was discovered in 1862 by Joseph Hardin Thomas.

Sequoias in the
General Gratn Grove

Like US Battleships, some trees in the Grant Grove are named after states: Indiana, Arizona, Wyoming, Minnesota, Georgia, Idaho, Pennsylvania, Illinois, Ohio, Connecticut, the Michigan log, Tennessee, Oklahoma, Kentucky, Vermont, Delaware, Maryland, Arkansas, Iowa, Missouri, Nevada, California, Oregon, New Mexico, Massachusetts, Maine, New Jersey Florida, Virginia, and Pennsylvania.

The temperature was cool here – the most people I’ve seen all day – mostly foreign tourists – the trails are not well marked and the closure due to fire did not help.

Panoramic Point is up from the Kings Canyon VC, turn right at the John Muir Lodge and up to a trail head. A short trail – I think the drive was longer – a lot of the back country was covered in clouds – could have seen more on a clear day. By this time it was past 4 pm and I thought I’d head back to the trailer. Another full day in the parks.

Panoramic Point - mostly low clouds - it may have been clearer earlier

TUESDAY October 6, 2015

WEATHER: 57 at 4:45 am – same o same o – the sky was clear – saw a shooting star. Forecast for CA indicates 90’s in the San Joaquin Valley by the weekend.

TEMPERATURE VARIATIONS

On the way up along Hwy 180 On the way down Generals Hwy to Hwy 198

EL1,000 66 F EL 6,000 57 F

EL 2,000 64 F

EL 3,000 64 F EL 4,000 65 F

EL 4,000 60 F EL 3,000 71 F

EL 5,000 52 F

EL 6,000 49 F

Same as yesterday, at 6 pm a return to the San Joaquin Valley was mostly sunny and 81 F

TRAVEL: Kingsburg to the entrance of Kings Canyon NP – Big Stump Tree Trail -

Buena Vista Trail - Congress Trail, - Moro Rock and finally a return to Kingsburg. Basically the route I’ve been taking for the last two visits in reverse along the Generals Highway

Big Stump Trailhead

Big Stump Trail

Big Stump Tree Trail is a two plus mile loop with a rise climb of 200’ on the return. It traverses an area that was totally “clear cut” chiefly of giant sequoias in the late 1880’s. The area was added to Kings Canyon NP in 1958. Decay occurs slowly in sequoias, therefore much of the evidence left behind by loggers has been preserved. i.e. stumps, piles of sawdust, etc.

Big Stump Trail - Shattered Tree. Sequoia wood is not very strong. When the loggers cut this tree - it fell and
shattered. They later felled pines and cedars to make a bed and break the fall of the Giant Sequoias.

Sawed Tree
I forgot to ask why
they didn't fell the tree

The Mark Twain Tree
I also forgot to ask
why this is wrapped in
mylar

Big Stump Trail

Mark Twin Tree

It appears not all the stops are marked and the trail itself is not well marked i.e. I had to guess at the location of the Square Dance Stump (where they used to hold square dances); never found the supposed “sawdust pile.” I was pleasantly misguided once, which made the trail longer, walked around a clearing looking for sights. Over time people have made too many additional trails. I spent 1 ½ hours on the trail.

Buena Vista Trail a supposed 2 mile hike with great views of Redwood Canyon, Buck Rock and the high peaks of Kings Canyon. There is a 450’ rise in elevation passing through a lot of granite. I spent about 45 minutes on the trail; the temperature was 52 F. The trail is not well marked and what I thought was the trail reached a spot where I thought it was unsafe to continue alone – too steep – too slippery and after stopping to take a picture I lost the trail on the way down and walked a different route to the bottom. I also got a bit misguided by a “helpful” trail marker that got me off the trail on the way up..

Buena Vista Trail
The big rock ahead appears to be
the goal and end of the trail

Buena Vista Trail
It's steeper then it looks
Close to the top - I decided it was
too steep and too slippery
to climb alone

Buena Vista Trail
this is not the top

Congress Trail starts at the General Sherman Tree and makes a pleasant 2 mile loop through the sequoia grove. The trail took about 1 hr and 20 minutes to walk but this also includes the down and up of the General Sherman Tree Trail. Surprisingly, this trail was paved. Congress Trail? Now it makes sense, it passes, the Presidents Tree, the Senate group of sequoias, the House group and the William McKinley tree. It was 53 degrees and a very pleasant walk. You could spend almost two full days walking the trails in the Giant Forest.

From the north, Highway 180 entrance into Kings Canyon this would be the extreme limit for any vehicle over 22 ft. After this the route down to Highway 198, Sequoia entrance has was too many hairpin turns along the Generals Highway that would be unsafe. Going down with a pickup was tough enough.

The McKinley Tree

The Presidents Tree

The Senate Group

Moro Rock – a last minute add-on. A narrow paved road veers off north from The Giant Forest Museum to a number of sites. The trip is worth the ride and the walk along the Moro Rock Trail, which includes 350 steps is worth the walk. However, it’s kind of like walking to Diamond Head (Hawaii) or Clingman’s Dome (Great Smokies) – nice view and after that – you can say I did it. This is a climb of 300 vertical feet.

Moro Rock Trail
stairs

Moro Rock Trail
top

Moro Rock Trail

Moro Rock Road
Tunnerl Log 8 ft Clearance

The road to Moro Rock ends at Crescent Meadow. I drove through Tunnel Log. If time would have permitted, I would have walked the 1.6 mile Crescent Meadow/Log MeadowTrail. A number of other trails converged or pass through here.

BOTTOM LINE: I’ve seen about all that could be seen in the parks with only 36 hours of daylight in 3 days and considering at least 3 hours of driving to get to and from the parks each day. Easily, you could spend a week here – there are a number of concessionaire run lodges that you can stay in or camp – always make reservations ahead of time. Obviously, not as many people in October, then during the summer peak season.

WEDNESDAY October 7, 2015

WEATHER: 57 at 5 am, clear sky, no wind.

TRAVEL: Kingsburg to Travis AFB FAMCAMP, 202 miles 3 ½ hours; the FamCamp is immediately right of the main gate. It was 88 F when I pulled in. Cools down fast after the sun starts to set – 78 by 7 pm..

TRAVIS AFB Fam Camp. Easy access – all but full – WIFI – unsure. I connected free once, brochure indicates 1^st 24 hours free then pay. Staff suggested signing up through COMCAST for an extended period. Gravel site, picnic table on slab. Not much air traffic – units with a variety of missions assigned here – airlift, refueling, maintenance, mission support group, medical group – C17s . Reveille 0700 Retreat 1630. All power is shut down on the base Sunday 0700-1900 – have to plan to watch the Packers.

THURSDAY October 8, 2015

WEATHER: 63 at 4:15 am got up to a high of 82

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Mission San Fracisco Solano (Sonoma, CA) to Point Reyes National Seashore to Mission San Rafeal (San Rafael, CA). A trip of 173 miles – lots of backed up California traffic – especially on the return trip.

The trip to Sonoma – yes Sonoma County - - - 30 miles and a one hour trip but I could have spent the morning – plenty of interesting places to eat and taste wine. Sonoma was founded by a Spaniard–American named Vallerjo – of course he had a vineyard. The vineyards in Sonoma and perhaps Napa Valley started as a result of grapes being grown at Mission San Francisco Solano.

The return trip after a visit to Mission San Rafeal also brought me through Napa Valley growers. This drive I did see one elk and three smaller deer like animals – large ears.

21 Mission San Francisco Solano, 114 E Spain St, Sonoma CA

The founding missionary was Fr. Jose Altimira who came from Barcelona, Spain, to manage Mission San Francisco de Asis. Three years after his arrival in California, he decided a new mission north of San Francisco Bay was needed.

With the political assistance of Governor Luis Arguello, he founded this last California mission on July 4, 1823. Three years later, however, his neophytes burned the wooden buildings of the new mission during an uprising. Fr. Altimira became discouraged and returned to Spain in January, 1828.

Fr. Buenaventura Fortuny, an aging Franciscan from Mission San Jose, was assigned to replace Altimira. Fr. Fortuny quickly reestablished order and morale and the work of building the mission continued. Containing the number of structures necessary to every self-supporting mission establishment, its main buildings were arranged around a large, square enclosure.

By 1832 the mission had 27 rooms in the convento or priest's quarters, with a great adobe church at the east end, and a wooden storehouse (the original mission chapel) at the west end. Completing this enclosure were workshops where the indians were taught to be craftsmen and created the items needed to help the mission be self-sufficient. Along the back of the courtyard were the living quarters and workrooms for the young lndian girls. In addition to the quadrangle, there were orchards, gardens, vineyards, fields of grain, a gristmill, houses for the soldiers and indian families, a jail, a cemetery and an infirmary.

The most successful year of this mission's short life span (11 years) was 1832. In his annual report for that year, Fr. Fortuny recorded the following: 127 baptisms, 34 marriages and 70 deaths; a total of 996 neophytes; the livestock inventory accounted for 6,000 sheep and goats, 900 horses, 13 mules, 50 pigs and 3,500 head of cattle; 800 fanegas of wheat, 1025 fanegas of barley, 3 fanegas of beans, 52 fanegas of peas, 300 fanegas of corn, 32 fanegas of frioles, and 2 fanegas of garbanzos were harvested .

Fr. Fortuny, having labored at this mission for 6 1/2 years alone, felt the need to transfer to another mission where the work load would be shared. He was 58 years old when he was replaced by Fr. Gutierrez.

In 1834 the Mexican Congress decided to close down all of the missions in Mexico. Mission San Francisco Solano ceased to exist on November 3, 1834, when it was designated a First Class Parish. Mariano Vallejo was sent north by the Mexican government with orders to oversee the closing of the mission and the founding of the pueblo of Sonoma.

The mission buildings rapidly fell into disrepair. The town of Sonoma was growing and building materials were in great demand. Roof tiles, timbers and adobe bricks were salvaged from the mission. After the settlers had cannibalized the old buildings, nature began recycling the remnants.

In 1841, Mariano G. Vallejo ordered a smaller church of adobe to be built in the location of the first wooden mission chapel. It replaced the large mission church which was rapidly deteriorating. It stood on the west end of the convento, so was often taken, in later years, to be a church of the old mission. In 1881, the church property was sold to a Sonoma businessman and a new parish church was built across town. At one time, the chapel was used as a warehouse. The convento may have been used as a winery.

In 1903, the two remaining mission buildings were purchased by a preservation group, and became part of the California Park System in 1906. By 1913, both had been reconstructed, and the chapel contained a museum of Sonoma history. After the 1940's, the former church and convento were remodeled along more authentic lines suited to exhibits devoted exclusively to mission history.

MlSSlON FACTS

· Mission San Francisco Solano was the 21st mission in California, and the only one built under the Mexican era. It was the northernmost and last of the missions to be established.

· San Francisco Solano, the patron saint of the mission, was a 17th Century missionary to the Peruvians. This mission site was chosen for its' weather, water, grazing land and building materials.

· The local indian tribes were the Miwok, Wintun and Wappo. Neophytes, or mission indians, were also drawn from many tribes farther away.

· Four Franciscan missionaries served at the mission: Fr. Jose Altimira, Fr. Buenaventura Fortuny, Fr. Jose Gutierrez, and FF. Jose Lorenzo Quijas.

· The original Spanish plan for missions was for a missionary to move into an area and gather up the indigenous peoples of the area to convert and train. At the end of 10 years, these people should be sufficiently prepared and the missionary could move on to a new area and leave a functioning pueblo or town with Spanish loyalties behind.

· Secularization orders, signed by Governor Figueroa in August of 1834, were intended to complete this process.

Bear Valley Visitor Center

232 POINT REYES National Seashore,Point Reyes Station CA

NO FEE

I found this a bit difficult to find – it is not well marked and GPS is useless. Point Reyes is a 71,028-acre park preserve located on the Point Reyes Peninsula in Marin County, California.

Point Reyes National Seashore

This NPS site sits on the San Andreas Fault and en emphasizes recreation: Horseback Riding, Cyling, Hiking. Backpacking, Birding – Geology is addressed by the Earthquake Trail – most of the rest of the park focuses on animal life – particularly sea life.

Point Reyes National Seashore map

Marine biologists have identified nearly a third of all known marine mammal species in the waters surrounding Point Reyes. Blue whales and humpback whales feed here during spring and summer months. Gray whales migrate past our shores twice a year on their round trip from Alaska to Baja.

Either I’m a little early or way late. At Point Reyes National Seashore, the peak of the southern migration for gray whales, usually occurs in mid-January and that of the northern migration in mid-March. Late April and early May afford the opportunity to see mothers and calves close to shore. No plans to go whale watching

I did not find the Bear Valley Visitor Center very friendly – it is 60’s vintage – not much done since. I had to ask for the film for a Discovery Channel film to be shown – I was joined by a dozen people. There are plenty of trails to walk. Your best bet is by horse (bring your own horse) – seems like a lot of Californians like to bike up the 18% grade roads – not my cup of tea – too many people – too many bicycles.

EARTHQUAKE TRAIL - A short, very informative trail with exhibits about the 1906 earthquake and the San Andreas Fault zone. About a ½ hour paved.

Point Reyes National Seashore - map

San Francisco Earthqauke April 18, 1906

San Francisco Earthquake October 17, 1989

WOODPECKER TRAIL – CLOSED DUE TO TREE FALL - A rustic trail through fields and trees with exhibits on the flora and fauna of the area. A one mile trail – steep in places.

MORGAN HORSE RANCH - This working horse ranch for horses used by National Park Rangers in wilderness areas and for backcountry patrol has trailside exhibits focusing on the characteristics, breeding and history of Morgan horses. The Morgan horse is the first American breed of horse. Self-guided exhibits, corrals and demonstrations are a part of the ongoing interpretive program of the ranch. A ½ mile trail.

KULE LOKLO - This replica Coast Miwok village has trailside exhibits that briefly describe the traditional ways of life of the first inhabitants of the Point Reyes peninsula. A .8 mile loop. Not that special – they need to work on the village.

Pierce Point Ranch is one of about 15 ranches that did not sell to developers and decided to co-exist with Point Reyes National Seashore. Established in 1858, the renovated Pierce Point Ranch is one of the oldest ranches on the Point Reyes Peninsula and was one of the most successful dairy ranches of its time. It is representative of the agricultural heritage of this area. I did not visit this site.

Lamantour Beach - Point Reyes &
Lighhouse off in the distance
shrouded in clouds & fog

Lamantour Beach

On a lark I decided to drive to Limantour Beach and the Pacific Ocean. Point Reyes was cloaked in clouds – the seashore is a big place. Drake’s Bay is named after Sir Francis Drake who sailed here.

20 MISSION SAN RAFAEL, San Rafael, Ca

Mission Site:

None of the original buildings exist
This is the current layout of the St. Rafael the Archangel Parish Campus

15 miles north of San Francisco at the native site of 'Anaguani. Since San Rafael was intended to be a "hospital" asistencia, a key consideration was that the location be in a sunnier and more protected environment than San Francisco, which was foggy, damp and windy. The original mission buildings were razed in 1870. In 1919 the new St. Raphael Parish Church, with an imposing tower, was built on the site of the original chapel.

Layout:

No effort was made to build a full complex. The initial building was a structure that measured 87 feet in length and 42 feet in width. It contained a hospital, chapel, padre's quarters and a storage area.

Water Source:

There was ample water in the area finally selected, which had several springs and a

stream.

Population:

The peak mission population was 1,051, in 1826. By 1840 only 150 neophytes remained. Between 1817 and 1839 1,902 marriages were conducted at San Rafael.

Livestock:

The herd was small by mission standards, but important for feeding the neophytes. In 1832 the mission had 2,120 cattle, 3,000 sheep, 370 horses ... and 2 hard-working mules.

Agricultural Output:

In its short mission life (17 years) San Rafael had a relatively high agricultural output of approximately 97.000 bushels of grain and produce. Production centered on wheat although barley, corn and beans were also important with peas, lentils and chickpeas used in soups and stews. The mission had extensive vineyards and orchards, and was noted for the excellence of their pears.

Mission Church:

In 1949 a replica of the original mission chapel was constructed on mission property to the right of the main church built in 1919. The replica has a Mudejar or star window said to have been copied from that at the Carmel Mission.

Mission Bells:

The largest of the
three bells

Three of the original mission bells are now displayed in the mission museum. Replicas now hang from a wooden bell rack to the left of the chapel entrance. San Rafael never had a companario.

Mission Art:

Rebuilt Chapel

The interior of the chapel is contemporary in style. Saint Rafael Parish Church has a large bronze sculpture of San Rafael holding up a cross.

Significant Event(s):

San Rafael was badly damaged in an Indian attack led by Chiefs Marin and Quintin in February, 1829. Loyal neophytes saved the life of the mission padre, Fr. Juan Amoros, by hiding him in the marshes.

Secularized:

1834

Year Returned to Catholic Church:

1855

Current Status:

The mission Chapel is used for special events and is part of the parish of St. Rafael of the Roman Catholic Archiocese of San Francisco.

Interesting Facts:

Under the able leadership of Fr. Gil y Taboada, San Rafael became California's first sanitarium.

.San Rafael maintained a substantial boat building operation, since boats were required to facilitate travel across the bay.

In 1846 John C. Fremont used the mission as his headquarters during the Mexican American War

After the mission ruins were removed in 1870, all that remained of the old mission site was a solitary pear tree. In 1909 the Native Sons of the Golden West erected a bell and sign on the original site.

St. Raphael the Archangel Parish
Serra International plaque

St, Junipero Serra

FRIDAY October 9, 2015

WEATHER: 62 at 4:30 am; forecast calls for 90 in the Valley; mid-70’s in San Francisco. It was 90 when I returned around 6 pm.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historic Site in Richmond across the Richmond Bridge (toll $5) to John Muir Woods National Monument in Mill Valley back and across the Congressman George Miller Bridge (toll $5) to Port Chicago Naval Magazine National Memorial in Concord to John Muir National Historic Site in Martinez and return to Travis AFB. A trip of 157 miles.

233 ROSIE THE RIVETER/WW II HOMEFRONT National Historic Park, Richmond, CA

A rare find – this Visitor Center just opened in 2012. A small building but very adequate. You have to enter through the gate of the Ford Assembly Plant in order to get to the site. The Ford Plant made tanks during WW II.

This site was part of the Henry Kaiser’s shipyards during WW II. The whole area became a wartime production center. The city of Richmond grew from 23,000 to 130,000 in a year. There were over 747 ships, mostly Liberty and Victory ships – launched in Richmond during WW II. Kaiser’s success was due to an innovative prefabricated assembly method. This allowed inexperienced workers to perform small repetitive tasks which sped up construction and opened up more jobs for workers.

WW II Propaganda posters

Mapn

Women and minorities eventually were brought into the work force. The Kaiser yards were among the first to hire women. By 1944, women made up 41% of the welders.

The site highlights the Home Front during WW II. Almost every town in the US focused on war production – this area is to represent all.

Kaiser was innovative and provided many firsts for workers.

Child Care Medical Preventive Care Mass Production of ships

Equality in work force

I spent about two hours here with Rosie the Riveter and Wendy the Welder. There are a number of women “Rosies” who come here daily to share their stories of working in the shipyards during WW II. A true resource.

Muir Woods

MUIR WOODS National Monument, Mill Valley CA

Cars parked everywhere

“This is the best tree lovers monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world” John Muir

When John Muir learned that William and Elizabeth Kent were naming a redwood forest near San Francisco in his honor, he declared, "This is the best tree-lovers monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world." The couple had purchased the land to preserve its beauty and restful wilderness; and in 1908, they donated it to the federal government to protect it from destruction.

Muir Woods - View of the untouched valley

Unfortunately it is to close to the city – I got there around noon and couldn’t find a parking space within 2 miles of the Visitor Center – perhaps another day

There is a $7.00 entrance fee.

PORT OF CHICAGO NAVAL MAGAZINE National Memorial, Concord, CA

The exact location and entrance to this site is a closely guarded secret. It is not user friendly. The site is an US Army ammo loading facility – RESTRICTED ACCESS.

The guy in this building was just plain unfreindly - like why
are you bothering me - go away!

A very nice NPS brochure does not tell you that you need to sign up 2 weeks in advance for a tour at the John Muir Historic Site.

The Army MP at one gate said tours were only on weekends and you had to sign up two weeks ahead of time. She directed me to the Entrance/Visitor’s Station. The very unfriendly Navy petty officer at the Entrance/Visitor’s Station said I had to call the NPS for a tour – there was a soldier there but he was quikly put down by the Navy petty officer – ‘ tours are given only given once a month.’ When I asked how or what number to call – he said – its on the website – WRONG – this Navy guy was useless.

Just designated a National Memorial in 2009 it has growing pains.

When I got to John Muir NHS I spoke with a ranger who gives the tour – the next available date was Oct 24. The tour starts at the John Muir NHS and they bus you over to the site – ammo – security check – fear of explosion – security breach.

On July 17, 1944 there was a tremendous explosion where 320 sailors and other dock worker lost their lives as a result of what was charged as unsafe loading practices. Some workers refused to work under the same conditions and the Navy put them on trial for mutiny. All the munitions loaders were African-American. The trial is looked at as a little known but important chapter in the history of US civil rights.

234 JOHN MUIR National Historic Site, Martinez, CA

“The battle for conservation will go on endlessly. It is universal warfare between right and wrong.” John Muir

Muir is often called the “father of the National Parks.” Muir urged people to experience wild nature so they would be inspired to defend it and save it.

While attending the University of Wisconsin, Muir read Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau on nature. He studied Louis Agassiz’s new geology and Asa Gray’s plant science.

John Muri - "quote"

I’ve read his “A Thousand Mile Walk” which describes his walk from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico shortly after the end of the Civil War. He intended to walk all the way to South America but caught a fever and eventually arrived in California in 1868. He lived in the Yosemite area of the southern Sierra Range off and on for several years, and studied its geology and botany/

John Muir House
after Dr, Strentzel died

He was ridiculed for suggesting that glaciers carved Yosemite Valley. Of course, he was correct. After five years to as an active fruit rancher, Muir began his most important campaign to preserve American wilderness. He enraged lumbermen and sheepherders and attacked the existing notion that nature existed only to provide commodities for humans.

This home in Martinez, CA was his father-in-laws. He married ‘Louie’ Strentzel, the only surviving child of Dr. and Mrs. John T. Strenzel, in 1879. The Muir’s had two daughters. When Dr. Strentzel died this home and properties became Muir’s. His wife ran the farm and urged Muir to write and promote the cause of conservation. Muir died in 1914 at age 76.

1838 John Muir born April 21.

1867 “A Thousand Mile Walk” from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico.

1868 California

1872 Began writing for the Overland Monthly magazine

1879-1881 Alaska trips

1882-1887 Manages fruit ranch in Martinez

1889 Campaigns for Yosemite National Park

1890 Writes Century magazine articles. Yosemite National Park established. Explores Muir Glacier in Glacier Bay, Alaska

1892 Helps found Sierra Club, elected as first president

1898 Honorary degree from University of Wisconsin

1903 Camps in Yosemite with President Theodore Roosevelt

1906 Explores Arizona and the Petrified Forest

1908 Muir Woods established begins fighting against damming Yosemite National Park’s Hetch Hetchy Valley. He loses the battle.

1909 “Stickeen” published

1914 Died December 24, age 76

SATURDAY October 10, 2015

WEATHER: . 61 at 4:15 am, first time I’ve seen dew on the truck in at least 10 days. As I drove closer to San Francisco the fog got thicker – really thick across the bridges but by 10 am it burned off. In the high 60’s to mid 70’s along the bay. It was 83 when I returned to Travis.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to across the San Francisco Oakland Bay Bridge (I-80 $5 toll) all around and through downtown San Francisco thanks to On Star to Fort Point NHS – the Presidio Visitor Center of Golden Gate NRA across the Golden Gate Bridge to Marin Headlands Visitor Center across the Richmond Bridge (I-580 another $5 toll) roaming to locate sports bars for tomorrows Packer Game and finally back to Travis AFB. A total of 156 miles.

Sports bars out here are appear to be defined as golf courses with a bar – really!

Fort Point

235 FORT POINT National Historic Site, Golden Gate National Park, San Francisco, CA

From its vantage point overlooking the spectacular Golden Gate, Fort Point defended the San Francisco Bay following California's Gold Rush through World War II. Its beautifully arched casemates display the art of 3rd system brick masonry and interacts gracefully with the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Golden Gate Bridge was built to save Fort Point NPS Photo

Fort Point was built between 1853 and 1861 by the U.S. Army Engineers as part of a defense system of forts planned for the protection of San Francisco Bay. Designed at the height of the Gold Rush, the Fort and its companion fortifications would protect the Bay's important commercial and military installations against foreign attack. The Fort was built in the Army's traditional "Third System" style of military architecture (a standard adopted in the 1820s), and would be the only fortification of this impressive design constructed west of the Mississippi River. This fact bears testimony to the importance the Military gave San Francisco and the gold fields during the 1850s.

Columbiad

Officers Quarters

Golden Gate Bridge

Although Fort Point never saw battle, the building has tremendous significance due to its military history, architecture, and association with maritime history.

In the late 1930s, plans for the construction of the Golden Gate Bridge also involved plans for the demolition of Fort Point. Fortunately, Chief Engineer Joseph Strauss recognized the architectural value of the Fort and created a special arch which allowed the construction of the bridge to occur safely over Fort Point.

After World War II, the movement to preserve Fort Point for its historic and architectural value began to grow. Over the next 20 years, support for the preservation movement waxed and waned. In 1959, a group of retired military officers and civilian engineers created the Fort Point Museum Association and lobbied for its creation as a National Historic Site. On October 16, 1970, Fort Point became a National Historic Site.

236 GOLDEN GATE National Recreation Area, Golden Gate National Park, San Francisco, CA

The park chronicles 200 years of history, from Native American culture, Spanish Empire frontier, California Gold Rush, evolution of American coastal fortifications, and growth of urban San Francisco; comprising of 19 separate ecosystems & home to 1,273 plant/animal species.

There is way too much to see here.

NORTH of the Golden Gate Bridge:

Stinson Beach Tennessee Valley

Mount Tamalpais Marin Headlands

Muir Woods National Monument Fort Baker

Muir Beach Overlook

Muir Beach.

SOUTH of the Golden Gate Bridge:

Fort Mason China Beach

Crissey Field Lands End

Fort Point National Historic Site Cliff House

Presidio Ocean Beach

Baker Beach Fort Funston

. . . . and there’s more –

Olema Valley Sweeney Ridge

Bolinas Lagoon Phleger Estate

Milagra Riadge Alcatraz

I have a feeling that most San Franciscans see less than ¼ of this. You can easily spend a week or more just in Golden Gate Recreation Area. Muir Woods and Fort Point are must sees. The Presidio is close to the ocation of Golden Gate Visitor Center.

However, this was a Saturday and Californians love to run and ride bicycles up and down the hills of San Francisco. Golden Gate was full of joggers and cyclists and walkers – many in anticipation of an Air Show. The Blue Angels were scheduled to perform over the Bay in the afternoon. Bottom Line – crowds. I’m glad I went early

FORT POINT NHS VISITOR CENTER open 10 am – 5 pm Closed Wednesday is located within the fort. Got there around 9:45 am – the government doesn’t open the doors until 10 am. A number of films that can be viewed – many do not come to see the films. It doesn’t matter the Volunteer starts them with or without and audience per the schedule. A full day of activities were planned for almost every hour. Located right under the Golden Gate Bridge.

GOLDEN GATE NRA - PRESIDIO VISITOR CENTER open Daily 10 am – 4pm – The army turned this over to the NPS when it closed the post in the mid 90’s. This was HQ to 6^th Army and up to that time was the longest continuously active military post in the US – over 200 years under the flags of three governments Spain-Mexico-United States

Map of the Presidio

Presidio Visitor Center

Not much of a VC but you can watch a DVD on the history of the Presidio. I found it interesting and worth the 20 minutes. Much of the parade ground was turned into parking lots. There is a fee to park $1.50 an hour or $7.00 all day.

You could spend the day here if you have the time and like to walk. Just across the street from the VC is a Transportation Center where you can take city buses. If I would have planned this better it might be a good place to park and see the city.

The is a one mile Main Post Walk that highlights 200 years of history and architecture. The brochure for the walk is free at the VC. I saw a Disney Family Museum – but did not go in.

Spanish Colonists established a presidio in 1776 – a Spanish term for a walled fortification where soldiers and their families lived. Six of the 13 bronze Spanish cannon that were used at the harbor entrance are still at the Presidio today. General Mariano Vallejo (the same Vallejo of Sonoma and the mission) was the Presidio Commandant in 1834. Alameda is Spanish for avenue.

Building 38
Former HQ 6th US Army

In 1915, when General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing was on duty in Mexico his house in the Presidio burned. His wife and three daughters perished in the blaze. Out of the tragedy, a fire station was built, the first professional firefighters on a US Army post.

Built in 1940, Bldg 38 served as HQ for 6^th US Army from 1946 to 1995.

GOLDEN GATE NRA - MARIN HEADLANDS VISITOR CENTER open Daily 9:30 am – 4:30 pm You have to cross the Golden Gate Bridge to get here – just west of Sausilito. Another military base and former Nike site – saved from development in the 60’s thanks to Golden Gate NRA.

Marin Headlands - map

Marin Headlands
Visitor Center

This Visitor Center is located in the former Fort Barry Chapel. A nice set of exhibits and friendly rangers. At the Presidio VC the ranger was not very helpful and the Fort Point folks were just putting in time – ruins of a 3 day federal holiday. Plenty of hikers use the place a way station.

No toll to cross the Golden Gate going North; there is a toll to return.

SUNDAY October 11, 2015

SCHEDULED POWER OUTAGE TRAVIS AFB 0700-1900

WEATHER: 61 at 4:45 am, dew on the cars again. Pleasant – mostly sunny – high of 86. It was 79 when I returned to the trailer at 7 pm.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel in Fairfield. With time to spare I drove to Danville and the site of the Eugene O’Neill NHS – a disappointment – no access without an appointment – so on the Fremont and Mission San Jose – then to a sports’s bar for the 2^nd half of the Packers-Rams game – still early drove to Mission Santa Clara (on the grounds of the University of Santa Clara) – and another 30 miles to Santa Cruz and Mission Santa Cruz – Total trip 244 miles. A 104 mile return trip.

Mass 8 am at OUR LADY OF MOUNT CARMEL Church in Fairfield, CA. A large church, with a large dome hall – at least 300 in attendance. The congregation was 40-50% Asian – no surprise that the celebrant was Asian. His homily was not boring – I listened – he even made a joke or two. No school on the campus.

EUGENE O NEILL National Historic Site, Danville, CA

I checked the website which indicated this site was open today with tours at 10 and 2 - Closed Monday and Tuesday. Unfortunately NPS doesn’t leave a key under the mat for the locked gate.

Disappointing – just like my visit to Port Chicago National Memorial. Unfortunate, the NPS in very small print on its brochure says “Visits to the site are by reservation only” – Of course, you usually have to visit the site in order to get a brochure – luckily I got one at Rosie the Riveter – did not read the almost last line. I’ didn't read the fine print on the website. Unsure if I’ll make an attempt to visit here again.

Salvaged the disappointment by visiting three of California Mission sites and watching the last half of the Packer-Rams game.

14 MISSION SAN JOSE, 43300 Mission Blvd. Fremont, CA

Mission San Jose was the 14^th of the Alta California missions. It was founded by Franciscan Padre Fremin Francisco de Lasuen in 1769. The site was an Ohlone village. The soil here was fertile and water was plentiful. By 1831 the Mission Indians numbered about 1,886.

The church has been completely rebuilt – restored. St. Joseph is the active parish on the site. There is a small gift shop which asks a $5 fee to visit the church and small museum. .

The interior is reconstructed to what may have
been its decoration in the years 1833-1840. There are two side altars.

In 1832 the mission owned 12,000 cattle and 12,000 sheep. The roof of the original church collapsed in an earthquake in 1868. The buildings were too badly damaged to repair.

San Jose - St. Joseph Church

San Jose - altar

San Jose - inside

I've been saying a rosary for vocations at every mission I visit. It’s quiet and I’m usually the only person in the chapel.

Kirby's

PACKERS 21 – RAMS 10 Pack now had a record of 5-0. A kind of sloppy game for both sides but it chalks up as a win. Kirby’s Sports Bar was just a bit of unique.

Mission Santa Clara
Santa Clara University campus

8 MISSION SANTA CLARA de ASIS, 500 El Camino Real, Santa Clara, CA

Mission Santa Clara, the 8^th California Mission founded in 1777, was the most prosperous mission in the north. However, flood, earthquake and fire destroyed the mission again and again. It was rebuilt in five different locations.

Santa Clara - altar

Santa Clara

Santa Clara
St Clare above altar
with Ciborium & Staff

Mission Santa Clara

In 1852 the missions was transferred to the Jesuits who founded Santa Clara College. The mission

Vestments in Museum

church, rebuilt in 1929, is a modern interpretation of what the church may have looked liked in 1825. It stands on the campus of the Santa Clara University, oldest college in California.

I visited the Art & History Museum de Saisset on the campus of Santa Clara University. It is adjacent to the rebuilt mission church.

12 MISSION SANTA CRUZ, 144 School St, Santa Cruz, CA

Mission Santa Cruz (founded 1791)was the 12^th Franciscan mission along the El Camino Real.

An 1840 earthquake destroyed the mission bell tower and a second quake on January 9, 1857 , toppled the front wall of the church and crumbled many of the remaining buildings. In 1891 Holy Cross Church replaced the original mission church.

The current mission church is a half scale representation of the original church. There was a gift shop that gained you entrance to the church – it closed on Sundays at 2 pm.

A little farther down the road is the only remaining original mission building – a 7 room, refurbished, adobe that the Indian families built and lived in. It is in the Santa Cruz Historical Park. I got to walk through the site just before it closed at 4 pm. A nice visit.

MONDAY October 12, 2015

COLUMBUS DAY – FEDERAL HOLIDAY

WEATHER: 59 at 5:15 am, clear it got up to 92 today – it’s HOT. I am not looking forward to Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Utah next year and the trip home across Kansas and Missouri August. At least the beer is cold.

TRAVEL: nothing of consequence

Updated the blog. Did laundry. Started reading The Port Chicago 50: Disaster, Mutiny and the Fight for Civil Rights. Updated and balanced my accounts. Got the oil changed and tires rotated at Fairfield Chevrolet – they even washed and dried the truck - Excellent Service – a very friendly staff – I’d give them FIVE STARS..

STRIKE ONE Tried to make an appointment for a tire change on the trailer – the right left rear tire of the trailer is smooth on the outside. Happy Daze RV, a member of the RV Priority Network did not have an opening until November. I called Camping World in Vacaville, CA– left a message for a callback – no callback – called again – Service Dept would not answer the phone – typical of Camping World – they struggle to be even average. I’ll see if the Firestone Service Center here on the base will change a trailer tire.

STRIKE TWO Tried to make an appointment to visit Eugene O”Neill NHS. Of course, they’re closed Monday and Tuesday.

Made a room reservation to stay at Yosemite – decided it saves time (not money) to stay in Yosemite – in comfort rather than spend 3 -4 hours daily just driving there and back - If I can’t get the trailer tire fixed I’ll just leave the trailer in storage here..

TUESDAY October 13, 2015

WEATHER: 64 at 4:30 am – clear – dew point not reached – the truck still is shiny – forecast calls for a day even warmer than yesterday – 80’s in the city by the bay. It was 97 when I returned to Travis at 3:45 pm.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB across the Miller Bridge and then the Oakland Bay Bridge ($6.00 toll) to San Fracisco Maritime Museum NHS to the Golden Gate NRA – Golden Gate Pavilion to Golden Gate NRA Lands End to Mission San Franciso de Asis (Mission Dolores) and return via I-80 – now with the $5 toll at the Miller Bridge. This is a 52 mile trip that took 2 hours and 20 minute. The traffic on I-80 was tremendous.

Entrance

238 SAN FRANCISCO MARITIME MUSEUM National Historic Park, San Francisco, CA

At the end of Fisherman’s Wharf and the trolley line I’ve visited this place before – just before my trip to China in 2007. San Francisco has a seafaring past and this site offers a bit of that history.

In addition to the Visitor Center museum, located in the old brick warehouse next to the Argonaut Hotel, there are five sailing vessels available for tour at the Hyde Street Pier.

Moored Ships at Hyde Street Pier

The Alma is the last San Francisco Bay scow schooner still afloat. Flat bottomed scow carried bulk cargoes – grain, hay and fertilizer. – between Delta farm communities and San Francisco.

The Balclutha is a square rigger built in Scotland to haul California wheat to Scotland. It has survived because it kept working after other vessels of its class were scuttled.

The C.A. Thayer is a schooner representative of hundreds that sailed the California coast. An eight man crew piled the deck high with Douglas fir, the raw material for Califronia cities in the 1900’s.

The Eppleton Hall is a tugboat built in 1904 in England.

Fisherman's Wharf Deal

The Eureka was built to ferry trains across the bay. It was rebuilt in 1929 to handle passengers and automobiles.

The Hercules is a steam driven tugboat built in 1907 in Camden, NJ.

Just down the street from Hyde Street Pier is Pier 45 where you can visit the USS Pampinito, a WW II submarine and the Liberty ship Jeremiah O’Brian.

Plenty of shops and restaurants on Fisherman’s Wharf.- along Jefferson Street.

PACIFIC WEST REGION INFORMATION CENTER – appear to be located in the San Francisco Maritime NHS Visitor Center. There was no ranger or volunteer in this room – it highlighted the San Francisco Bay Area NPS sites.

Golden Gate Pavilion - map of the area

Golden Gate Pavilion
At end of Golden Gate
Bridge

GOLDEN GATE NRA - GOLDEN GATE PAVILION open Daily 9 am – 6 pm. I parked in a lot called Fort Winfield Scott and walked here.

Golden Gate - View form Pavilion
You can walk across the bridge

GOLDEN GATE NRA - LANDS END VISITOR CENTER open DAILY 9 am – 5 pm I found the park and golf course but not the visitor center.

Japanes Monumnet
Gift ot City of San Francisco
at Lands End

Mission San Francisco de Asis
Mission Delores

6 San Francisco de Asis (MISSION DELORES), 3321 16^th St, San Francisco, CA

Model of Mission

Mission San Francisco de Asis was the 6^th mission to be established under the direction of Junepero Serra. It is popularly know as Mission Dolores, named after a nearby stream. It was founded by Father Francisco Palou on June 29, 1776.

Father John O'Connor and Pope John Paul II

This is the oldest intact mission in California – 114 ft long – 22 ft wide – with 4 ft thick adobe walls. Masses are still celebrated here. It survived the San Francisco earthquake and fire of 1906 with hardly any damage. Mission San Francisco was named a minor basilica by Pope Pius XII in 1952. Pope John Paul II visited here. It was the first California mission to receive that distinction. The large basilica/church is located next door. Both are churches of the Diocese of San Francisco.

Mission San Francisco de Asis - Mission Delores Altar

Identification of statues above the altar - I've noticed St Michael is prominent on most the the mission altars I've seen
Addtionaly St Clare is alos prominent

WEDNESDAY October 14, 2015

WEATHER: 68 at 4:30 am – no dew – 86 at 1pm up to 92 by 3 pm

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Muir Woods NM – a 52 mile trip that took 2 hr and 15 minutes and one $5 toll bridge - Rush Hour traffic is unbelievable – a return trip to Travis AFB via Hwy 1 and 101 to I-80 was 62 miles in length but only took 1 ¼ hours with no tolls.

GOOD NEWS – Les Scwab Tire is just down the road and will change my trailer tire next week Friday, first thing in the morning – they have a large bay in the rear where I can pull the truck and trailer through – should take 20-30 minutes tops.

I left a message on the reservation line for the Eugene O’Neill NHS – getting into this place is like getting into Port Chicago NMem – only this is just a endless series of phone messages – guess they don’t want to talk to people – worst service access I’ve encountered for a NPS site yet.

Muir Woods Entrance to trails

239 MUIR WOODS National Monument, Mill Valley CA

$7.00 ENTRANCE FEE

“This is the best tree lovers monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world” John Muir

Muir Woods

When John Muir learned that William and Elizabeth Kent were naming a redwood forest near San Francisco in his honor, he declared, "This is the best tree-lovers monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world." The couple had purchased the land to preserve its beauty and restful wilderness; and in 1908, they donated it to the federal government to protect it from destruction. Kent later served in the US House of Representatives, and in 1916 he introduced legislation creating the National Park Service.

Muir Woods’ benefit is also its bain – too close to the city – this time I got there around 9:45 am found the parking lot half full. When I left it was starting to back up on ht street like Friday..

The lot near the VC is ¾ parking for buses and commercial tours – something tells me this is not what John Muir would have foreseen.

There are even signs asking people to be quiet
It doesn't work

There were still too many people - LOUD people – tourists with no respect for the sacredness of the forest. There are plenty of trails to walk – you have to get off the main trail to find some peace and quiet.

Muir Woods - Cathedral Grove

I took the 2 mile Main Trail Loop. It follows Redwood Creek on both sides of the stream. I took the Hillside Trail back – it is elevated parallel to the main trail – I found less people and more quiet here. It was cool when I started the walk. By 10 it started to warm up quickly. The quick walk took about an hour. Total time spent in the park was 1 ½ hours – it took 2 ¼ hours to get here. I was not impressed – Why? Like Acadia - too many people.

The trails in Muir Woods are asphalted or board-walked. Trails on the canyon walls are dirt, narrow, steep, and rutted with tree roots. Stroller and wheelchairs are not advised on most of the upper trails. I bought a Trail Map for $1.00..

Muir Woods lies in the middle of the redwood's latitudinal range that spans from the California/Oregon border to Big Sur, just south of Monterrey. The weather is mild throughout the year, but summer is the busiest time to visit Muir Woods. As far as I’m concerned any time before 9 am is a busy time. Best time to visit is before 9 am and after 4pm.

Bohemian Club 1892

Muir Woods - Bohemian Grove

The Bohemian and Cathedral Groves have the biggest trees in Muir Woods. The tallest is over 250 feet and the widest over 14 feet. Some redwoods are at least 1,000 years old. The world’s tallest living thing is a coast redwood in Northern California. In 2006 a redwood in Redwood National Park was measured at 379 feet.

The regular summer coastal fog supplies critical moisture to redwoods in the dry season. Fire is also has benefits – clearing the forest floor of duff so redwood seeds can reach mineral soil. Fire also destroys bacteria and fungi in the duff layer that can kill seeds before they germinate. The redwood’s thick spongy bark insulates the tree from fire damage.

Muir Woods is close to the population – too close. Like Great Smokies National Park you cross a line - from totally built-up commercialization to nature.

They say the incredible diversity of flora and fauna at Muir Woods can be daunting some times, elusive at other times. I found it elusive. The redwoods themselves dominate the scene, but the humble Steller's jay, ladybugs, ancient horsetail ferns, and the banana slug hold their own beneath the canopy. Plants adapt to low light levels on the forest floor, while whole plant and animal communities bustle in the canopy above our heads – never got up there.

Now it clicks - Mt. Tamalpais EL 2490 and Tamalpais Park are adjacent to Muir Woods. In the 70’s David Crosby released a solo album appropriately entitled “If Only Could Remember My Name” – one of the cuts on the album is Tamalpais High (about 3 pm) – Now do you get it?

THURSDAY October 15, 2015

WEATHER: a dry 68 with some winds and clouds at 5 am. It was in the 80’s then cooled off to the 70’s with some clouds by early evening.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Cypress Grove GC to Napa/Sonoma and back to Travis. It took less than an hour to drive there from the golf course about 42 miles. The 32 mile trip back took almost 2 hours – there are not many accidents during rush hour – the usual 55 or 65 mph speed limit slows to less than 20 mph because of the traffic on the roads.

EARTHQUAKE of 2.0 supposedly yesterday about 12 miles from here – 5 miles north of Vacaville – never felt a thing.

Finished reading “The Chicago 50: Disaster, Mutiny, and the Fight for Civil Rights.” A quick read, the Navy still holds the Chicago 50 as Guilty of mutiny. Although a young Thurgood Marshall fought to have the verdict overturned, the Navy upheld an appeal filed in 1945. All of the 50 are dead but the fight still goes on to have the Navy overturn the verdict of Guilty of mutiny. They paid a heavy price for defying authority. The questions are: Was it really mutiny? Did racial prejudice taint the verdict? The Navy upholds the findings.

There was not
water on this hole
see the brown grass

GOLF CYPRESS LAKES GOLF COURSE Travis Air Force Base – actually this course is a little over 3 miles outside of the North Gate in the region – there are green tings that grow there. The course is relatively flat with the water hazards – all dried up - no surprise. You get lots of roll on the driving range, it looks like a desert, hard, flat, dry not so much roll on the narrow fairways. A good sized Club House and pro shop. I shot a 54 with 23 putts and managed to find trees on the first 3 holes (there just are not that many trees) and 2 lost balls. ..

The ranger from Eugene O’Neill NHS called about 1215, apologized for not calling back earlier and asked if I could make the 2 pm tour. I was almost to Sonoma so I asked if I could attend tomorrow at 2 pm. OK.

SONOMA WINE COUNTRY

Parked on the square in Sonoma. A person at the Visitor’s Bureau was very helpful and

Sonoma - Murphys Pub
at the end of an alley

suggested that I visit Benziger Family Winery in Glen Ellen then Cline Cellars or Jacuzzi Family Vineyards on the return to Travis.

I walked the square in Sonoma. Plenty of shops, restaurants, bistros and wine tasting places. After a thorough review I decided on a cold Harp at an Irish pub aptly named Murphy’s – it tasted good - right sized – a 12 oz glass not a pint – it hit the spot.

I drove through Napa and Sonoma Counties– plenty of places to explore. I think you could spend a couple of days visiting wineries and not get bored.

Benziger -aerial view, the ring of trees left on purpose
Natural - a home for birds and owls who control rodents

Benzinger -
vineyard

Nothing to waste - nothing artificial
From the land to the land

Benzinger - a Jack London story

Drove to the Benziger Family Winery. This was a great suggestion. Like Maker’s Mark they pride themselves on family ownership and quality. What makes Benziger unique is that it is relatively new since the early 80’s, family business, relatively small, biodynamic-certified. The extreme of organic. No chemicals used, everything that is used at the vineyard is used or reused. I learned that grapes prefer 80-100 F warmth and that the picking season is short – depends on the type of grape grown. Tomorrow will be the last day to pick the grapes here – at 3 am – the height of flavor. So much more – I just can’t write about it all.

Jack London Saloon
Glen Ellen, CA

Jack London Saloon
Call of the Wild
movie poster

If I remember correctly, Hueblein bought the rights to the Glen Ellen name from the Benziger Family for $80 million. The money was put back into the business to make it biodynamic.

On the way back I stopped at the Jack London Saloon in Glen Ellen for a beer. Jack London died in Glen Ellen. London wrote adventure novels at the turn of the century: Call of the Wild, The Seawolf – some were made into movies.

FRIDAY October 16, 2015

WEATHER: 62 at 5 am, mostly cloudy, cleared and up to the low 80’s

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Danville, CA (toll on the Miller Bridge) Travis AFB I've travelled this route before

239 EUGENE O NEILL National Historic Site, Danville, CA

Below is from the website:

The Gate - Lots of oriental
influence due to Carlotta
Black keeps evil out
Chinese characters on door

“Due to the location of this park, all visitors are required to take a free National Park Service shuttle from the town of Danville to tour the historic home and grounds. Visitors are not permitted to drive their personal/private vehicles to the site. For both "Saturdays Without Reservations" and reserved tours, the shuttle meets at 205 Railroad Avenue in downtown Danville, just outside the Museum of the San Ramon Valley. Parking is available next to the museum” BOTTOM LINE: Don’t be disappointed. Call ahead for an appointment before coming here.

Tao House - front

The hassle was worth the tour . . . .

The ranger was outstanding – only three of us on the tour

Eugene O’Neill had been a wanderer before he came to Tao House. Born in NYC on October 16, 1888, the son of James O’Neill, an actor who like other stars of the time spent most of his time on the road. The young O’Neill was raised in hotel rooms and theater wings. He was sent to Catholic boarding schools and Princeton University.

Entry stairway from living room

He ran from his parents – his family – (his father was stuck in a role Count of Monte Christo, his mother was addicted to morphine as a result of his birth and his older brother was an alcoholic) to Honduras, to England. He succumbed to TB and had to pause. During convalescence in Provincetown, MA he began to write plays. His first short play about the sea Bound East for Cardiff was staged by a group of amateur actors in the summer of 1916.

O’Neill believed that the theatre should be taken as serious art rather than pleasant diversion. He experimented and aspired to the tragic.

In 1920 he received the first of his four Pulitzer Prizes for the tragedy Beyond the Horizon – a play that combined the real and the poetic in a way Broadway playgoers had not seen. Two years later, the tragicomic Anna Christie won his second Pulitzer Prize.

In 1936 he was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature- his plays up to this tiem. With the stipend, he and his 3^rd wife Carlotta were able to build a house he came to call his “final home and harbor”” Tao House. His daughter Oona married Charlie Chaplin – O”Neill did not approve of the marriage and disowned his daughter after she married Chaplin. They remained married for over 30 years and had 8 children. One of them Geraldine Chaplin may be remembered for her role in the movie Doctor Zhivago.

Tao House - O'Neill's
writing room & desk
He never displayed his
the Pulitzer or Nobel awards

The five plays O’Neill wrote in Tao House include life studies generally regarded as his finest achievements.

At Tao House he wrote the autobiographical plays, that rank among the highest achievements of the English-speaking theatre: The Iceman Cometh, Hughie, A Moon for the Misbegotten and Long Day’s Journey Into Night. For the last play he received his fourth Pulitzer Prize, awarded posthumously following the New York premier in 1956.

Long Days Journey Into Night

“At the final curtain, there they still are, trapped within each other by the past, each guilty and at the same time innocent, scorning, loving, pitying each other, understanding and yet not understanding at all, forgiving but still doomed never to be able to forget.”
O’Neill on the characters who were based on his family

He suffered from Parkinson’s Disease that caused his hands to tremble and slowly robbed him of his ability to write. He found himself blocked when he couldn’t put pencil to paper. Effectively silenced by illness, he died in 1953.

This is half the reason why O'Neil built here
Danville is below but there was very little to it when he
purchased the property

The view to the other side is even better

The house has fantastic views and in the 40’s was very isolated. A couple purchased the house after the O’Neill’s moved out – after 22 years the state bought the property and much more for a state park – the state eventually donated 7 acres and the Tao House to the NPS in the mid 70’s.

SATURDAY October 17, 2015

WEATHER: 60 and windy at 4:30 am – partly cloudy -

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Vacaville, CA to Travis AFB

Vacaville is about 12 miles east – down I-80. My grill rusted through. I found an all stainless stell one at Camping World in Vacaville yesterday, but the price was $278.99. I looked on line and Camping World has it for sale at $179.92 – same price as Wal-Mart. Camping World honored the price.

Earlier this week I had that today would be movie day. I saw two good movies in Vacaville – could have seen a 3^rd but this isn’t like watching 6 episodes of 24 at home.

Bridge of Spies – Excellent ----- Tom Hanks directed by Steven Spielberg

The Martian ---- directed by Ridley Scott and starring Matt Damon – better than expected – perhaps not as good as Gravity, but then most of this film takes place on land - a good movie. The third movie I would have seen is Everest.

SUNDAY October 18, 2015

WEATHER: 56 at 5 am mostly sunny – clouded up as I headed toward the mountains – reached a low of 48 around 6700 feet – low 50’s in the Yosemite Valley – mostly cloudy – some rain – an occasional short downpour.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB to Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Fairfield, CA to Yosemite NP

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel
Church

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel
Hall - a little like
the Golden Rondelle

Mass 8 am at OUR LADY OF MOUNT CARMEL Church in Fairfield, CA. This is the same church I went to last week Sunday – same celebrant but the deacon gave a good homily on servant leadership – well he didn’t call it servant leadership but it was from Mark’s gospel.

The challenge today will be finding a place to watch the Green Bay – San Diego game. Since they play a California team it shouldn’t be too hard. However, if I’m in Yosemite – - - that is the challenge. There was no place at Yosemite where I could find the game televised.

Big Oak Flat
Infromation
Station - not much here

GREEN BAY 27 – San Diego 20. Seemed to me another sloppy day for the Pack – but a win. Record of 5 – 0.

The drive Yosemite’s western Big Oak Flat Entrance and Information Station took about 3 hours. It was another hour to Yosemite Valley. I made the right decision. This is no place for a trailer. If you come here, stay in a hotel or camp in a tent. Make reservations way in advance and if in the summer be prepared for traffic and lots of people.

Pictures can hardly do it justice

240 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, Yosemite, CA

You don’t need reservations to enter Yosemite. The cost to enter is $30. Tthe several lodging options are full most of the year. I managed to make a 4 night reservation at the Wawona Hotel, about an hour south of the Yosemite Valley, still in the park, the olest hotel in the park. The Wawona is not a five star today but in its day it probably was. If you stay in the park make reservations early.

You can drive in Yosemite but use the shuttle as much as you can after you’re lucky enough to find a parking spot. Still running at this time of year but not as many people to move. There are campgrounds in Yosemite – not necessarily for RVs – no electric.

I’m right at the edge of the season, Tioga Pass and the road to Devils Postpile was closed due to snow. However, because of the rain and snow this is the first time the falls have flowed since June. A double-edged sword.

The drive into the Valley was just awesome – the sheer granite cliffs, the falls, the valley view of Half Dome and El Capitan. Even with the clouds and rain – Yosemite is indescribable – except perhaps by John Muir. Plainly awesome – pictures do not tell the story – you have to feel it. I was thinking after visiting majestic Yosemite, why the Grand Canyon except maybe for color and expanse. This place is a wonder.

Yosemite Village – a small village with more than most small villages have – obviously set up for plenty of campers and tourists. A hotel, a lodge, a large store, a large deli/restaurant, visitor centers, wilderness centers, even a theater. I saw an excellent film about Yosemite . . . . . and of course people but not as bad as if it had been summer.

The shuttle runs a loop and will take you from parking to all the attractions.

Wawona Hotel – originally advertised as One Mile Above the Sea – A Sierra Resort Near the Mariposa Big Trees. WIFI is available but only in the Sun Room. This hotel/resort is a collection of several buildings (cottages) with rooms. Some have private, others have shared baths. A nine-hole golf course, tennis, stables, pianist, pool, hiking, history center, gift shop & grocery, dining room, and lobby. The décor of the dining room is preserved in the traditional style of the Dining Room’s history – dress is casual. Cocktails are served in the lobby and on the veranda. Short order sandwiches can be obtained at the golf shop.

The Mariposa Grove of Sequoias has a history. President Lincoln signed the bill that set aside the Mariposa Grove along with scenic Yosemite Valley in 1864. In the years following, a fire started in the grove and we began a 100 year history of protecting the trees from fire, Protection was good but we discovered that fire actually promotes the reproduction of these trees. It clears away competing firs and cedars and exposes bare mineral soil for the tiny seeds to take root. Mariposa Gove is closed for restoration.

Galen Clark first explored Yosemite - long befroe John Muir
Lincoln signed an act in 1864 to protect Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove - given to California
Fredercik Law Olmsted - Landscape architect

Coming into the Valley there was a 3 mile controlled burn to south of the main road in the valley. Most likely due to the rain it was deemed advisable and fairly safe.

I bought a ticket for Lee Stetson’s one man show “The Spirit of John Muir.” The performance will be in the Yosemite Theater at 7 pm. The only drawback is the one hour mountain road drive back to the Wawona Hotel – maybe I can get a room for one night in the Valley.

MONDAY October 19, stay 2015

WEATHER: 43 at 5 am at the Wawona Hotel, foggy. – 42 all along the Glacier Point Road – 54 in the Valley by afternoon.

TRAVEL: . Wawona along the Wawona Road up the Glacier Point Road to Washburn Point – Glacier Point and the Sentinel Dome Trail and Taft Point Trail to Tunnel View (Inspiration Point) to Swinging Bridge to Lower Yosemite Falls and back to the Wawona Hotel.

I saw my first California bear today – frolicking in the woods above the Wawona Raod as I was travelling to the Glacier Point Road – he wasn’t interested in coming down by the road – he scampered off into the woods. So as far as large animals go – Mule Deer in Point Reyes and a bear in Yosemite.

240 YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

“It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter” John Muir

Wawona Visitor Center
Thomas Hill Studio

Wawona Visitor Center & the Thomas Hill Studio is adjacent ot the Wawona Hotel.

View of Half Dome and the snow in the distant High Sierra form Glacier Point

Glacier Point – a drive on 17 mile long Glacier Point Road maintained a 42 degree temperature but with the sun out it was almost short sleeve weather. Glacier Point EL 7,214. There was snow up here. The VC here was shut down for the season. The road is usually closed November through May.

Half Dome from Washburn Point

Three Brothers from
Washburn Point

Washburn Point – great views of the High Sierra – Nevada Fall and Vernal Fall are across the Valley.

Snow on the
Sentinel Dome Trail

View of Sentinel Dome
from the trail

Sentinel Dome Trail – my hike with a long sleeve t-shirt over a t shirt with a pack were warm. This is at least a 1.8 mile round trip hike. I took me at about 1 ¾ hours. The view is well worth the walk. A great palce to get a John Muir moment. This is a 400 ft gain in elevation. Sentinel Dome EL 8,122 ft – better views than Glacier Point.

View from the top of Sentinel Dome - Half Dome on the left

Taft Point Trail – a 2.2 mile round trip hike – again about 1 ¾ hours. Giant fissures in the rock here are at the edge. At times the walk in the woods was more like Muir Woods should have been than Muir Woods was itself. Supposedly only a 200 ft gain in elevation but maybe that’s 200 up then down than up again and the return seems more up than down. Taft Point EL 7,503 ft.

Bridalveil Fall Trail – a ¼ mile one way walk to the base of the falls. Bridalveil Fall drops 620 feet. A steep one way climb. This fall never dries up.

Tunnel View - often called Inspiration Point. When The Glacier Point Road is blocked by snow this venue provides the best view of Yosemite Valley.

I walked about a mile from the Swinging Bridge Picnic Area lot through the Yosemite Lodge grounds to the start of the Lower Yosemite Falls Trail. This is paved 1.1 mile walk but it can be steep enough to stop some. It takes you to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls.

Hard to believe that the falls were dry just 3 days ago – they just started flowing Sunday – been dry since early June.

This may have been my best day yet . . . . .

TUESDAY October 20, 2015

WEATHER: it was 40 at 5 am at Wawona – sun burned off the fog in the valleys. It was cloudy and cool in the high altitudes.

TRAVEL: Winona Hotel to Yosemite Valley and out of the Valley to Tioga Road to Devils Postpile and back to the Wanona Hotel. This was a trip into the back country – to the eastern side of the Sierra - no services along Tioga Road. A 116 mile one way 3 1/4 hour trip each way. Add another hour of drive time for the visit to Yosemite Valley VC. A lot of windshield time.

I asked a ranger at the Yosemite Valley VC if she could tell me anything about Devil’s Postpile – she said “it was a pile or rocks” – she confirmed that Tioga Pass was open. that I would not need chains this time of year, and it would take at least three hours. With those encouraging words I headed for Devils Postpile.

I did note the temperatures as I went up down, way up down, way up down,-up and down again. Lots of mountain driving. Not all the ups and downs are documented.

EL 3,000 58

EL 8,000 48

EL 9,000 39

EL 9.945 37 way up

EL 8,000 41

EL 7,000 48

EL 9,000 39

It was 62 when I got back to Wawona.

240 YOSEMITE National Park

Tioga Road – leads to Tulomne Meadows Visitor Center which is closed for the season – through the Yosemite Tiogo Pass Entrance EL 9,945 ft and down to the Mono Basin Scenic Area and US 395. This road is closed November to May.

Olmsted Point is along Tioga Road – .

Olmsted Point - The boulders
were dropped by the glacier.
They are called erateics

Olmsted Point - view

Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center – CLOSED FOR THE SEASON

Tioga Pass Entrance Station EL 9,945 ft and Tioga Peak EL 11,528 ft – rangers were manning the entrance station. It was cold and I didn’t stop to locate Tioga Peak.

Mona Basin Scenic Area Visitor Center – didn’t stop here but the Mona Basin itself is high desert – surrounded by the Sierras. The VC is on US 395 just north of Lee Vining.

241 DEVILS POSTPILE National Monument, Mammoth Lakes, CA

Well, the ranger at Yosemite Valley VC was pretty much on target – it’s a “pile of rocks.”

Devil's Postpile

Devil’s Postpile is on the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River on the Sierra Nevada’s western slope. EL 7.560. It clouded up when I approached Tioga Pass and covered Mona Basin. However, when I finally got to Devil’s Postpile it was sunny.

Devil’s Postpile is a columnar basalt formation. Due to volcanic activity is flowed about 82,000 years ago. The basalt lava was thick with a consistent mineral composition, and it cooled slowly and evenly. As the lava cooled it contracted and split into symmetrical, vertical, hexagonal columns that today make up Devil’s Postpile.

Geology of Devil's Postpile

Some 20,000 to 12,000 years ago a glacier flowed down the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River and overrode the fractured mass of lava. The moving ice carved away one side of the postpile, exposing a sheer wall of columns 60 feet high.

Devil' Postpile

Erosion and earthquakes felled many of the columns that lie fragmented on the talus slope below the postpile.

Originally part of Yosemite NP, Devil’s Postpile lost it’s protected status in 1905 with pressure from mining interests. They planned to dynamite the formation and make a rock dam on the river. Activists persuaded President William Howard Taft to restore Federal protection to Devil’s Postpile by proclaiming the national monument in 1911.

Mammoth Mountain SkiResort
Waiting for more snow

It looks like there is plenty of activity in this area – campgrounds – hiking trails - the long distance John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail cross the park. A shuttle runs along the narrow road in the Inyo National Forest during the summer season.

Winter looks like skiing at Mammoth Mountain Ski Area Resort – before you enter the federal land..

WEDNESDAY October 21, 2015

WEATHER: 46 and clear at 5 am. A beautiful day – clear blue sky – got up to the 60’s

TRAVEL: Wawona Hotel to Curry Village – used the Yosemite Shuttle to get around the Valley.

I decided not to spend another 6 hours driving by going to Hetch-Hetchy – it’s an hour drive to the Valley then another hour to the turn–off near where I came in on Sunday. Maybe if I was staying in the Valley – maybe on the way out tomorrow.

Unable to save changes on the blog this morning – this has happened before – just frustrating. I lose a lot of time. Never sure why – maybe it’s the location – maybe it’s the connection – just frustrating.

I decided not to drive from the Yosemite Theater this evening back to the Wawona, so I was able to get a heated room with a shower bath at Curry Village. Accommodations are less sparse at Curry but it is in the Valley. The room was about the size of an old BOQ room at Fort McCoy without a desk – chest of drawers, carpeted, shower, closet, double bed, clean sheets. I could have gotten a regular $99 plus taxes unheated tent for $29 but thought comfort was in my interest. This may not be a bad option if you come prepared to camp – live outdoors.

240 YOSEMITE National Park

After arrival at Curry Village I got on the shuttle and went for a hike on the Mirror Lake Trail. The route I took was in the forest but it must also have been a horse trail – plenty of “apples.” I had to watch where I stepped – but it was peaceful – a road less travelled. This is called Mirror Lake because the water reflects the mountains and cliffs above. Actually, it is a “pool in an intermittent stream.” No water in the pool at this time of year. I got to walk through the pool/lake. Even with the rain over the weekend, it was dry. It was about a 2 ¼ mile walk. Fairly easy, as easy in Yosemite goes. I took the paved road back. Most people take the road to and from. No pictures – forgot my phone.

Yosemite Shuttle System

This would be a day hike

Got on the shuttle, mailed some postcards, back on the shuttle and lunch at the Awahnee Hotel. Built in the 20’s a very nice hotel. Lunch was delicious: tomato-mushroom bisque, bread and a glass of chardonnay at an outside table.

I explored more of the park in the Valley. Saw the 30 minute movie in the theater again. Perhaps, I would return to Yosemite – but stay in the Valley and hike the trails up to Lower Yosemite and Vernal Falls. Sentinel Dome and Glacier Point are almost directly above where I’m staying. Trailheads for Vernal and Nevada Falls are also not far away.

Dinner was at the Mountain Room of the Yosemite Lodge.

Attended a performance by John Stetson. He portrays John Muir – tells stories of his life. An all but full theater – good performance – he told some stories of his adventures in the wild. I’m glad I’ve read a couple of his books, visited Muir Wood and his home – it made the portrayal more enjoyable.

THURSDAY October 22, 2015

WEATHER: it was 40 degrees at 7:30, in the 50’s with wind at Hetch Hetchy and 82 when I got back to Travis – clear with wisps of clouds

TRAVEL: Yosemite’s Curry Village to Big Oak Flat Entrance to Hetch Hetchy Entrance (I was the first day use visitor) to Travis AFB - a 4 hour return tirp with about 1 3/4 hour at Hetch Hetchy.

240 YOSEMITE National Park

Hetch Hetchy –

“ a wonderfully exact counterpart of the great Yosemite” John Muir

First in the Park on 10/22/15

The modern valley name is derived from the Miwok word, hatchhachie, which means edible grasses. As early as 1882, Hetch Hetchy Valley had been looked at a as a potential site for a new reservoir.

The Hetch Hetchy Valley resevoir the waterfall on the left is dry - you may barely see the smaller waterfall in the center

Hetch Hetchy

Preservationists, led by John Muir, wanted the valley to remain untouched. They maintained that a dam could be secured outside “our wild mountain parks.” For the first time in the American experience, a national audience considered the competing claims of wilderness versus development. Until the early 1900’s Americans viewed wilderness as something to conquer and natural resources as infinite. John Muir lost his fight to save the valley.

View below the dam

Congress passed the Raker Act in 1913 authorizing the construction of a dam in the Hetch Hetchy Valley, as well as another dam at Lake Eleanor. The first phase of the dam was completed 1923. The second phase raising the height of the dam was completed in 1938.

Today the 117 billion gallon reservoir supplies unfiltered Sierra Nevada drinking water to 2.4 million Bay Area residents. The reservoir is 8 miles long.

Hetch Hetchy’s relatively low elevation provides for one of the longest hiking seasons in Yosemite. Numerous trails are in the Hetch Hetchy area. I wanted to get back to Travis, do laundry and prepare for tomorrow – I did little hiking ----- however,

WAPAMA FALLS TRAIL – a 5 mile round trip that follows the shoreline of the reservoir.

LOOKOUT POINT TRAIL – a 2 mile hike brings you to a rocky outcropping overlooking Hetch Hetchy Valley.

At Travis I did laundry and prepared for leaving tomorrow.

FRIDAY October 23, 2015

WEATHER: 56 at 5 am; warmed up quickly, 68 partly sunny when I arrived in Monterrey.

TRAVEL: Travis AFB Fam Camp to Les Schwab Tire in Fairfield to Monterrey Pines RV Resort . About 158 miles; a three hour trip in addition to the hour layover at Les Schwab Tire. They really impressed me.

Trailer at Monterey Pines

I had the spare mounted to replace the right rear trailer tire which was worn smooth on the outside edge. Les Schwab has several locations – highly recommended – they certainly know service.

Monterrey Pines is a Naval MWR Facility – Golf course looks very nice – well kept. The RV Park - well the sites are not level – dirt sites – enough room – quiet. We’re near the Monterrey Airport – more activity here than at Travis. WIFI available but very slooooow at times.

SATURDAY October 24, 2015

WEATHER: 56 at 5 am - .

TRAVEL: Monterrey Pines RV Resort to Martinez (NPS van to Concord and back) to San Juan Bautista to Monterrey Pines.

242 PORT CHICAGO NAVAL MAGAZINE National Memorial, Concord, CA

It was a 2 ½ hour 135 mile back along the road I took to get to Monterrey in order to meet the ranger at the John Muir NHS and take the NPS van to the Port Chicago National Memorial. There were six of us on the tour. We saw a ten minute video on Port Chicago. Additionally, I saw a 25 minute video on John Muir that I didn’t see two weeks ago when I was here.

During WW II, Port Chicago on Suisun Bay offered a deepwater terminal, rail connections and isolation from highly populated areas – a perfect location for loading munitions.

The seaman assigned as loaders were all African-American. Still segregated, the black munition loaders were supervised by white officers and black petty officers. The facility ignored advice from the local long-shoremen’s union and the US Coast Guard regarding safer loading practices – specifically - two munition ships on the same dock at the same time.

The Wreackage

On the night of July 17, 1944 two ships were being loaded. The E.A. Bryan was almost full. The Quinault Victory would start loading at midnight. Sixteen rail cars lined the pier loaded with 1,000 pound bombs, depth charges, and incendiary bombs. .

The Explosion

No one is sure what happened - only that a 10:18 pm there was a tremendous explosion, followed seconds later by a much larger one that obliterated ships, pier, cars and humans..

Pier One Before and After

Mutiny

Survivors anticipated 30 days leave – as their officers had received – and transfer to other duty, but the Navy granted neither. Instead they were sent to Mare Island Naval Shipyard and on August 9 were marched into the shipyard’s munitions pier to resume loading. Initially, 258 refused, saying they were afraid to load. Threatened with death by firing squad for mutiny during war, 208 went back. They were given bad conduct discharges after serving out their terms. The 50 who persisted faced the largest mass mutiny trial in naval history.

The prosecutor built a case on what was called “collective“ acts to subvert established authority. The defense argued that while the 50 had refused to load, this was a result of each man’s fear and not a conspiracy to overthrow a superior.

NAACP attorney Thurgood Marshall publicly asked hard questions about the base’s safety practices, but the 50 were convicted and given sentences of 8-15 years. After the war the Navy (President Truman) granted clemency to the 50 and put them on ships to serve out their enlistments.

Their convictions were not overturned, but their acts of civil disobedience brought to light the injustice of racial segregation in the military. The 50 received dishonorable discharges.

When I made a reservation for this tour on October 10 at the John Muir NHS, I purchased The Port Chicago 50: Disaster, Mutiny and the Fight for Civil Rights. I’ve since read the book, a National Book Award nominee and Newberry Honor winner. An easy read.

Port Chicago Memoral
Plaques list names of all killed in the explosion
Remains of the pier in the background

REMEMBERING THE FALLEN

320 men died in the Port Chicago explosion representing a cross-section of the base’s workforce: 202 African-American enlisted personnel working as loaders (15% of all African-American deaths in WW II); 9 of their officers, 64 members of the US Maritime Service serving as crew on the two ships, 33 members of the of the US Navy Armed Guard assigned to protect the ships, 3 civilian Navy workers, 3 civilian contractors, 5 US Coast Guard fire boat crewmen and a Marine Guard on duty that night.

Their deaths called attention to safety problems at munitions facilities. The Navy did address the issues of both safety and segregation in the months following the tragedy. In 2011 President Obama declared Port Chicago a National Memorial. Senators Diane Feinstein and Barbara Boxer wrote a letter in September 2015 requesting Obama to overturn the Navy court martial conviction of mutiny. All of the 50 are deceased.

Mission San Juan Bautista

San Juan Bautista inside

5 pm Mass at St. John the Baptist Parish (Mission San Juan Bautista) San Jaun Bautista, CA. I left Martinex around 3:15 and got to San Juan Bautista just in time for the 5pm mass. The priest was Irish – the accent gave him away. There was a Franciscan or two on site – perhaps not priests they attended Mass. The museum closed at 4:30 pm – beautiful garden and grounds.

15 MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, 406 2^nd St, San Juan Bautitista, CA

Contemporary
John the Baptist

Named after John the Baptist, this church sits on the only original Spanish plaza remaining in California.

Mission San Juan Bautisita was founded on June 24, 1797.by Father Fermin Lasmen. This was the last of the 6 missions founded in the land of the Ohlone. There were at least 28 Ohlone villages in the area surrounding San Juan Bautista.

San Juan Bautista - Gardens

The mission quickly attracted converts and more than 500 Ohlone were living at the mission by 1803. The largest number of converts was 1,248 in 1823.

The mission sits almost directly on the San Andreas Fault. Construction on the current church began in 1803. Completed in 1812 it is the largest of the 21 missions. The native population declined and the church was larger than needed.

San Jaun Bautista - Restored Mission Square

The earthquake of 1906 collapsed the outside walls of the side aisles but the nave was still standing. The church remained that way until 1950 when the outside walls were rebuilt. During 1975-76 the arches separating the side aisles from the nave were opened up and today the church looks the way it was intended.

The mission was secularized in 1835. It was one of the only missions that has always had a pastor and services held since 1812. In 1859 the Catholic Church received the mission and 53 acres of land.

Today the mission is a parish of the Diocese of Monterrey. In addition, to being the only mission still located on the original Spanish Plaza, other historical buildings on the plaza are protected in the San Juan Bautista State Historical Park.

SUNDAY October 25, 2015

WEATHER: 59 at 5:30 am, a pleasant day, overcast until noon then the sun broke through and it got up to the 80’s

TRAVEL: Monterey Pines RV Resort to Pinnacles National Park, a 75 mile one way drive past Mission San Juan Bautista

243 PINNACLES National Park, Paicines, CA

$10 per vehicle entry fee – honor system pay at the Visitor Center.

23 million years ago multiple volcanoes erupted, flowed, and slid to form what would become Pinnacles National Park. What remains is a unique landscape. Travelers journey through chaparral, oak woodlands, and canyon bottoms. Hikers can enter rare talus caves and emerge to towering rock spires teeming with life: Prairie and Peregrine falcons, Golden eagles, and the inspiring California condor.

There are over 30 miles of hiking trails at Pinnacles National Park, ranging from easy, flat walks to more challenging, all-day hikes. I didn’t take any of the easy trails but did spend over 3 ½ hours on the trail

Trail Map - I took the high road

The Condor Gulch Trail starts at the Nature Center and after 1.7 miles uphill connects with the High Peaks Trail – another .6 mile uphill to the Tunnel Hill Trail – stayed on the High Peaks Trail another .7 mile along a very steep and narrow section of the trail literally in the Pinnacles - to the Juniper Canyon Trail – stayed on the High Peaks Trail finally a 2 mile down hill walk back to the Nature Center. So the 5.2 mile walk took 3/1/2 hours and at a minimum 1 ½ bottles of water – if the sun had been out for the whole walk 1 ½ bottles would not have been enough.

Going Up the Condor Gulch Trail

Condor Gulch Trail looking down
at the Nature Center parking lot

Volunteer with antenna
trying to locate condors

I ran into a lot on people on the trail but there were stretches were there was no one. I took a lot of pictures – impressed with the scenery and where I was, was going, and had been.

High Peaks Trail
view

High Peaks Trail
Looking down to the
Chapparel Parking Area
on the Other side of the Park

High Peaks Trail
steps cut into the rock
the picure does not
do justice to how steep
this is

High Peaks Trail - A view from the top

I would have explored Bear Gulch Cave and Trail (another 1 ½ miles) but was only took 1 ½ bottles of water. I needed water and headed for the parking lot.

Pinnacles, has a different type of cave in structure than the traditional Karst topography cave formation. The talus caves of the Park were formed when steep, narrow canyons filled with a jumbled mass of boulders from the cliffs above. The canyons are the result of faults and fractures in the central area of volcanic rock. These shear fractures filled with gigantic toppled boulders are clear windows into the geologic wonder of the Park.

The Civilian Conservation Corps built trails through the caves in the 1930's and these trails have endured many storms and travelers. The stairways and bridges they constructed were needed to navigate the caves without the use of ropes and ladders. Today, the Bear Gulch and Balconies caves are principal attractions for visitors at the Park.

BEAR GULCH CAVE

The Bear Gulch Cave provides a home to a colony of Townsend's big-eared bats as they rest there in winter and raise their young in the late spring and summer. Townsend's big-eared bats are listed as a "sensitive species" by the state of California, and we are required to protect them. The colony in the Bear Gulch Cave is the largest maternity colony between San Francisco and Mexico.

The lower half of the Bear Gulch Cave is usually open from mid-July through mid-May each year, depending on the presence of the colony of bats. The entire cave is closed from mid-May to mid-July while the bats are raising their young. For these last two weeks of October, the entire cave open – parts you have to belly crawl in.

Pinnacles, Muir Woods, and the Grand Canyon were all set aside as national monuments in the span of seven days in January 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt. Pinnacles became a National Park in 2013. I think it needs a lot of work – i.e. investment.

MONDAY October 26, 2015

WEATHER: 51 at 5 am, clear no wind – reached the dew point

TRAVEL: Monterrey Pines RV Resort to Carmel to Del Monte GC to Soldedad way out there.

Unable to download Chase accounts for six days – and Quicken Support doesn’t work on weekends – called at 5:45 am – was supposed to be a 20 minute wait – it was more like 45. Internet said 0 minutes for phone service; 10 minutes for a live chat. Lesson Learned: Don’t believe the posting. This download problem has occurred before - frustrating. After a 45 minute wait I spoke to “John unintelligible’ who said Chase was still working on the problem with Quicken – sounded like a script read – and he would not respond to anything that was not in the script - useless – no feeling – computer voices have more feeling and response. Just wasted a lot of internet connect time - I’ll get an e-mail – I’m not sure I believe Quicken – waiting . . . . . . . . . .

Monterey Pines RV Resort WIFI has been non-existent for the last two days – typical for a government facility. It is slow to connect very very frustrating – might as well not offer it.

Missions San Carlo Borremeo

2 MISSION SAN CARLOS BOROMEO del RIO CARMELO, 3080 Rio Rd, Carmel-By-The-Sea, CA

Charles Borromeo was archbishop of Milan and a cardinal. He helped reform the Chruch and opened seminaries for the education of priests. He was canonized by Pope Paul V in 1610.

This was the seond mission founded by Junipero Serra on June 3. 1770. Also called the Carmel Mission it was Junipero Serra’s favorite. He is buried under the altar. The missions was originally located near the presidio of Monterrey. It was moved 5 miles south by Father Serra to be near the mouth of the Carmel River. Monterrey became capital of California and Carmel became headquarters of the missions.

The Native American population of converts reach 876 in 1795 but by 1808 only 550 converts were living in the mission. In 1818 Hippolyte de Bouchard, working for Argentina landed at Monterrey and burned the Presidio, the mission was spared. Spain was at war with Argentina.

The church was secularized in 1834 and the lands around the mission were sold right up the walls of the mission. The church had to purchase land in front of the church so priests and congregation could go in and out without trespassing. The buildings deteriorated and in 1852 the roof collapsed. The church and 6 acres of land were returned to the Church in 1859 but the buildings were not usable.

Crypts of Francican Missionaries in sanctuary of Mission San Carlos Borremeo
Fr Junipero Serra in center

San Carlos Borremeo Side Chapel
Kneeler where Pope John Paul II prayed

San Carlo Borremeo church inside

Plaque in side chapel commemorating Pope John Paul II visit

Junipero Serra's room

A new roof was built in 1884 – replaced in the 1930’s and the restoration began. Pope John XXIII named San Carlos a minor basilica in 1961. Today it is a church in the Diocese of Monterrey.

DEL MONTE GOLF COURSE which is part of the Pebble Beach Golf Resort Complex is just 6 blocks down the road from where I’m staying. Actually, the Navy course where I’m staying looks better – so I’ll play both tomorrow. I had a very good portabella with peppers & onions sandwich at DEL MONTE.

13 MISSION NUESTRA SENORA de la SOLEDAD, 36641 Ft. Romie Rd, Soledad, CA

Our Lady of Solitude. A name given to Mary following the crucifixion and before the

Front of Mission Our Lady of Sorows - Soldedad

resurrection.

The Esselen were a very small tribe living near the coast south of Carmel. The area was not heavily populated and this is the only mission built in their homeland.

Within a year Soledad had more than 100 native converts. In 1805 the mission’s population peaked at 688. By 1810 the population declined to among the lowest of any mission. Epidemics caused converts to desert the mission.

In 1824, 1828 and 1832 floods destroyed the church and rebuilt chapels. The roof of the 1832 chapel collapsed in 1874. The chapel was reconstructed in 1955 – making Soledad the last of the missions to be restored. The Convento was reconstructed in 1963. It now serves as a museum. Very quiet here – in the middle of large farming plots – lots of land not many people.

Soledad was secularized in 1835. The last Franciscan left in 1839. The mission was sold but in 1859 the church and 42 acres were returned to the Catholic Church but no priest was assigned..

Today the mission is part of the Parish of Our Lady of Solitude in the Diocese of Monterrey. Not an active church but services are held occasionally

On the return I tried to locate the commissary – no luck. I did drive through the remains of Fort Ord. Fort Ord was home to the 7^th ID (Light Fighters). It was closed in 1994. What I drove through is now University of California – Monterey. I did gain entrance to the Naval Post Graduate School – Naval Facility Monterey. They have a small exchange. I bought some groceries and gasoline.

TUESDAY October 27, 2015

WEATHER: 54 at 5:30 am

TRAVEL: Monterrey Pines RV Resort Golf Course to Del Monte Golf Course and back to Monterey Pines

Monterey Pines GC Club House/Grill - Pro Shop

Monterey Pines
#7 stats

Monterey Pines
#7 from the tee
I landed to to right of the green

MONTEREY PINES GOLF COURSE. This is a Navy MWR facility but open to the public. Large pro shop and spacious club house and grill.. I played with three other guys. Green fees were $24 plus $2 for a pull cart. I shot a 44 with a 7 on the first hole a 6 on the 2^nd and 1 lost ball on a par 3. I can’t be that good - a fairly easy course. No water on the front nine – it’s been dry – lots of roll. There are few tress but I found wood and 4 holes but member’s bounce. We played 9 in just under 2 hours walking.

Del Monte #4
This is where my
2nd shot landed
I did not make the birdie

Del Monte #2
314 yd Par 4

DEL MONTE GOLF COURSE. This course is part of the Pebble Beach Golf Resort Complex. Its claim to fame is that it is the oldest course in the Monterey area. Old Club House – nicely remodeled. The Pro shop is long and narrow, likewise the bar and grill. Green fees are $110 plus cart or caddie fee. The least expensive of the Pebble Beach courses which run $495+, $395+ and $270+.

Del Monte #3
361 yd Par 4
This is where my
2nd shot landed

Del Monte - one of 5 Pebble Beach Resort Golf Courses

I got the twilight rate for $40 – I jumped in front of the foursome on #1 and teed off on #2 until – I caught up with a twosome and tailed them for 3 holes until they finally let me through on #7. I got to #9 in about an hour. Decided to play the back nine until I caught up with a single on #16 who was stalled – we finished the last three together. I shot a 44 on the back – finished #1 and had a score of 46 on the front for a total of 90 on 18. My best round ever.

WEDNESDAY October 28, 2015

WEATHER: . started at 59 at 5:45; 80 by afternoon. Sunny and clear – wind up to 30 mph from the north.

TRAVEL: Monterrey Pines RV Resort to Vines RV Resort in Paso Robles, CA. A two hour drive of only 110 miles to the south, just off Hwy 101. Just a place to stop along the Mission Trail. Near Camp Roberts but 10x better.

Vines RV Resort

Trailer Site Vines RV Resort

Vines RV Resort is a Sun RV Resort as well as, a Good Sam member. This is the best RV park and site I’ve ever been on. The site is stamped concrete, landscaped, full hookup. The bath house looks more like the mens locker room in a Country Club than a RV park shower house. It has private showers with sink and counter, a sitting room. The only thing missing was towels, sunscreen and hand lotion by the wash basins. Nice pool and outside sitting area, a beer and wine bar open evenings Thursday-Sunday. Very friendly staff. Only drawback is WIFI – slow – occasional.

Wayside Marker - Camp Roberts

This isn’t Sonoma or Napa but Paso Robles is wine country. I got a lead on on a place called Taste in the Alley in downtown Paso Robles.

California is awaiting El Nino – every 15 or 20 years - last El Nino was 1997 - the good surf will be up on the coast and it will bring snow to the Sierras which will fill reservoirs; the bad too much rain will bring floods and mudslides – 1 in 5 Californian’s live in a flood plain, they even say Great Whites will be out in force with El Nino; the ugly mudslides have recently closed I-5 – a cleanup mess..

ENTERTAINMENT TONIGHT: The Republican Presidential Candidates Debate. However it was on CNBC – a cable channel that I do not get and I couldn’t find it on the radio --- content with watching Jeopardy and Wheel of Fortune. I heard an NPR clip where the greatest applause was received after a candidate made a remark indicating that precisely because of the line of questioning –‘the American public does not trust the media’ – He indicated that questions were targeted to dig dirt and be divisive. Hear- hear. I don't think I missed anything worth while.

THURSDAY October 29, 2015

WEATHER: 55 at 5:30 am.

TRAVEL: Vines RV Resort to USPS & Mission San Miguel to Mission San Luis Obispo though Fort Hunter Liggett to Mission San Antonio de Padua, Jolon CA to Mission San Miguel and back to Vines.

Quicken & Chase finally reconciled after a week. Oh - of course I got no e mail update from Quicken. I never really expected them to contact me. A week to solve an “internal” problem - unacceptable.

I didn't expect a 7-10 nile drive through
an army CTC in order to reach
Mission San Antonio de Padua

Looking for a post office I drove 3 miles north to San Miguel and found Mission San Miguel one block from the post office. A 37 mile mile to San Luis Obispo over the Cuesta Pass EL 1,572. The mission/church is just off of downtown. I was there before 10 am but plenty of places for lunch or dinner or beverages – quiet – pleasant. About 70 miles back the way I came past Camp Robinson and Fort Hunter Liggett to reach Mission San Antonio de Padua. It is undergoing restoration and earthquake proofing. No wonder it’s a retreat center – literally at the end of the road just past the inside gate to the Fort. Back to Mission San Miguel.

Mission San Luis Obispo

5 MISSION SAN LUIS OBISPO, 751 Palm St, San Luis Obispo, CA

Founded September 1, 1772 by Junipero Serra with Fr. Jose Cavaller, it was the 5^th of the 21 California Missions.

Mission San Luis Obispo
Inside of church

Louis of Anjou (1274-1297) was the 2^nd son of Charles II of Anjou, King of Naples, and nephew of King Louis IX of France. He joined the Franciscan Order in 1296 and was named Bishop of Toulouse a week later. He died within a year and was canonized by Pope John XXII in 1317.

The mission served the Chumash, a maritime culture that traveled along the coast and lived from Morro Bay to Malibu. The population of converts reached a high point of 961 in 1805, but because of deaths, the mission maintained its population only by attracting new converts from the area.

Mission San Luis Obispo
Altar

The mission was secularized in 1834. The last Franciscan Father Ramon Abella died in 1842. The mission was sold in 1845. LTC John C. Fremont took possession of San Luis Obispo for the US in 1846. The mission was returned to the Catholic Church in 1855 and a priest was assigned

The current church was built between 1788 and 1790. It is the 2^nd oldest mission church in California. In the 1930’s the church was returned to its 1790 appearance.

Mission San Luis Obispo - Gardens

Today the mission occupies a full block of downtown San Luis Obispo and is a parish church in the Diocese of Monterey.

3 MISSION SAN ANTONIO de PADUA, End of Mission Rd, Jolon, CA

Mission San Antonio
Front of Church

Founded July 14, 1771 by Junipero Serra. It was 3^rd of the 21 California Missions.

Anthony of Padua (1195-1231) was born in Portugal. His given name was Fernando and he may have been from the wealthy de Bulhoes or Bouillon family. One fo the most famous early followers of St. Francis, Anthony was a gifted preacher. He was canonized by Pope Gregory IX in 1232.

The mission developed rapidly due to the leadership of tow Franciscan padres. The mission was visited by Juan de Anza in 1776. The arrival of de Anza also meant that a new road from Mexico to California was open.

Mission San Antonio
Sanctuary

In 1790 there were 1,076 native converts living in the mission. The number increased to 1,296 in 1805. There was a high death rate primarily due to the introduction of European diseases, poor diet and sanitation and crowded living conditions.

Olive Tree
Mission San Antonio

The mission was secularized in 1834. The mission lands were sold but the mission never attracted a buyer. The Catholic Church received title to the mission and 33 acres of land in 1858.

Restoration was begun in 1903. William Randolph Hearst purchased 154.000 acres of former mission lands. In 1940 the War Department purchased the Hearst Lands to establish Fort Hunter Liggett. With funds from the Hearst Foundation the mission was completely restored in 1948. Today it serves as a retreat center for the Diocese of Monterrey. It is being re-restored and updated with earthquake proof technology with a target completion of 2017.

Mission San Antonio - Rose Garden

16 MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL, 795 Mission St, San Miguel, CA

Mission San Miguel - front

Founded July 25, 1797 by Fr. Fermin Lasuen. It was the 16the of the 21 Californian missions.

Michael the Archangel is one of the principal angels in the Bible. He is usually represented as an angelic warrior and ready to do battle with the devil.

Mission San Miguel
extended walls

Mission San Miguel - altar

Most converts of this mission were Salinan who lived in the central coast and the Salinas River Valley.

The current church was built between 1816 and 1819, native converts under the directions of Esteban Munras painted the interior of the church. San Miguel is the only Californian mission with its original wall paintings.- never retouched of painted over.

The population at the mission reached 1,076 native converts in 1814. The death rate here was not as high as at other missions. There were still 658 neophytes at the mission in 1832.

Mission San Miguel

Mission San Miguel
Olive Press

Mission San Miguel
Electric Votive Lights
Make a donation
Press the button
2 hours

Mission San Antonio - Sanctuary

San Miguel was secularized in 1834. The mission was sold in 1846; the church and 34 acres were returned to the Catholic Church in 1859. It was returned to the Franciscans in 1928 and is a parish church of the Diocese of Monterey.

FRIDAY October 30, 2015

WEATHER: it got down to 46 just before sunrise, 48 at 0815, sky is clear. In the 70’s along the coast, 83 when I returned around 4:45 pm.

TRAVEL: Vines RV Resort to Hearst Castle, San Simeon, CA (along Highway 1) and return to Vines.

HEARST CASTLE: This stop was an absolute joy. It was less than a hour drive over the coastal range. I spent 5 hours on site. Tours a bit pricey. I took the Grand Rooms and the Upstairs Suites Tours. Each cost $25. I also watched a 45 minute IMAX film entitled Building The Dream – the story of building the house on the hill. You need to purchase at least one tour to get to the house and see the film. If you come here plan on a day. Hearst Castle is about 40 minutes NW of San Luis Obispo; almost the same time/distance to Paso Robles.

George Hearst - William Randolph Hearst's father

The focus was on the house as a museum – not on Hearst’s life or the building of his empire and riches. My photos will not do the house/museum justice.

There is a large Visitor Center with some exhibits, a coffee shops, snack bar, wine bar serving Hearst wine and of course the gift shop. A fairly large staff runs this place. There is a 15 minute 5 mile bus ride from the Visitor Center to the Castle.

BUILDING THE DREAM

In 1919, newspaper publisher William Randolph Hearst hired San Francisco architect Julia Morgan to build a hilltop house on what he called his “ranch at San Simeon.” Their collaboration on the project lasted from 1919 to 1947.

Morgan designed a Mediterranean Revival estate and filled it with art and antiques from Hearst’s vast collection. It is said that only 10% of the art he collected was used on the property.

Hearst Assembly Room
Where Guests gathered for cocktails before dinner
Note tapestries, choir chairs along walls - Guide hat & suit was outstanding

William was the only son of George Hearst who as a lead minor from Missouri traveled to Nevada/California in search of gold. He never found gold and it wasn’t lead but silver. In 1859 his hunch on ore turned out to be silver – the Comstock Lode. He knew rocks and invested in the gold mines of Dakota and the Anaconda Copper Mine of Montana. William (born 1863) went on a world tour (Europe) for 1 ½ years with his mother when he was ten. He developed a lasting appreciation of Mediterranean art.

Hearst Refectory - Dining Room
Styled after a Gothic Monestery - Hearst was not pretentous
with dinnerware - i.e. common tableware,
paper napkins, glass was not crystal, plates were stoneware,
although he owned Bonaparte China The silver was
candlesticks are authentic

Hearst has a huge collection of whole ceilings, tapestries, Greek vases, and Spanish silver. Many of these were used in the construction of his house on the hill. Morgan had to be patient – Hearst came up with ideas and almost always changed his mind. For instance the Neptune Pool started out as a family swimming pool and after it was built and redesigned 3x the final from finally stayed.

It appears that Hearst always wanted his house on the hill to be viewed by the American public as a museum. After his death in the early 50’s the Hearst Corporation and family trust gave the house and several miles of shoreline to the State of California.

Hearst - San Simeon shoreline

Hearst - ceiling in Morning Room
Hearst was a collector of ceilings
Every room is idfferent

Hearst's backyard - the house was located on a ranch
WC Fields is to have said 'you could send the children out to play and
not have to worry - when they came back they would be adults'

Hearst - art deco movie theater
after dinner guests would be invited to watch a film

Hearst
Billard Room

SATURDAY October 31, 2015

WEATHER: 48 at 5:30 am clear - .it got up to 91 today

TRAVEL: Vines RV Resort to Paso Robles to Vines to San Miguel to Vines

Finished reading Travels in Alaska by John Muir. Unless you were a tree hugger, you probably wouldn’t think about reading him, but he is an interesting read. A talent and an interesting read. Wonderful word descriptions. Actually, he does less “nature preaching” than Bill Bryson does in parts of A Walk In The Woods, which I found distracting.

Mission San Miguel
but not the entrance to the church

Children's All Saints Decorations
Church in the background

5 MASS at Mission San Miguel de Arcangel. This is just 4 or miles up Highway 101 from here. Visited here on Thursday. The mass was said by a Franciscan. All Saints Day. His homily was on target for the readings – interesting to listen to – the congregation was less than 50 strong which included one Franciscan and five nuns. The mass following was for children dressed as saints. The congregation cannot sing – it was not pretty. The Bishop of Monterey will be the celebrant of next week's 5 pm mass in honor of Father/Saint Junipero Serra.

SUNDAY November 1, 2015

WEATHER: 53 at 5:45 am GAINED AN HOUR DUE TO THE END OF DAYLIGHT SAVING TIME high of 82 this afternoon.

TRAVEL: Paso Robles area.

Started reading a book about Eugene O’Neill’s A Long Days Journey Into Night – a book that could be used in a college course - traces the history of the play, it’s productions and actors. Published by Cambridge University Press. Actually, very interesting – a quick read.

PACKERS 10 vs BRONCOS 29. A Sunday night football game on CBS played in Denver with a 6:30 MST start which means I can start watching it here at 5:30 PST. It was an unfortunate game. The Pack couldn’t defend and the offensive line couldn’t hold back the rush and the Bronco secondary was all over the receivers - well I think they were lucky up to this point. Pack is now 6 and 1. Broncos 7 and 0.

MONDAY November 2, 2015

WEATHER: .57 degrees at 5:15 am cloudy – forecast for rain – California only wishes it would – cloudy probably a good day to travel – they call this California’s first winter storm – started raining at 8:20 am - rained all day

TRAVEL: Vines RV Resort to Flying Flags Resort & CG, Buellton CA to Solvang, CA

Flying Flags RV Resort – arrived when it was drizzling – then rain for almost the rest of the day – some clearing occasionally – gravel sites – manicured lawn between sites - narrow roads. Looks like there are a large number of full time trailers here. Nice – WIFI works after you get connected Tengointernet – no charge – a lot better/faster than Vines RV.

Mission Santa Ines (Agnes)

19 MISSION SANTA INES VIRGIN y MARTYR, 1760 Mission Dr, Solvang, CA

Founded by Father Estevan Tapis September 17, 1804 It was the 19^th of the 21 California missions.

Mission Santa Ines
St. Agnes patron above the
altar tabernacle

Agnes of Rome (c291- c304) was an early Christian martyr. According to tradition, a non-Christian Roman official wanted Agnes to marry his son. When she refused because she was a Christian the official had her condemned to death.

Mission Santa Ines
inside church

Santa Ines is located between Santa Barbara and La Purisma on land that had previously been assigned to those two omissions. As a result it never had the extensive land holdings of the other missions.

Never a large mission, at maximum it’s number of converts was 920 in 1817. Santa Ines was the site of the Chumash revolt of 1824, which spread to La Purisma and Santa Barbara. The revolt occurred because natives were being forced to work for the soldiers assigned to the mission without pay. It lasted several months and several buildings at Santa Ines were burned. Of course there is another story read below:

Mission Ines Gardens

Santa Ines was secularized in 1834. The church was never abandoned and in 1844 Santa Ines became the site of the first seminary in California.

The Texas Missions used statues to tell Christian stories; by
the 1800's they used art - here the Shepherds vist on Christmas

Since 1924 the Capuchin Franciscans have had authority over the mission. The church is part of the Archdiocese of Los Angeles.

Mission Santa Ines - layout

Mission Santa Ines - the frontyard
fertile valley and San Raphael Mountains

Solvang, CA is Danish – I was looking for kringle- there are bakeries. The motif of all the shops and hotels and restaurants along the main road is Danish. An upscale Wisconsin Dells with no water parks or beer bars pt cheap looking motels – of course there are wine tasting rooms – and not as much traffic. Looks like a nice place to spend an afternoon.

Dave Gapinski's Travels 2015

Friday, September 25, 2015

Sep 23-Nov 2 Homestead-Fossil Butte-Dinosaur-Golden Spike-Timpanogos-Kings Canyon-Sequoia-Chevez-San Francisco Area- CA Missions-Yosemite-Devil's Postpile-Pinnacles-Channel Islands-