TUESDAY November 3, 2015
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| Flying Flags Buellton, CA |
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| Flying Flags Trailer |
TRAVEL: Flying Flags Resort & CG, Buellton CA to Mission Santa Barbara to Santa Barbara Harbor & the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum and Channel Islands NP VC to La Purisma State Park to Flying Flags.
NPR – I listen
to radio almost every morning – usually pretty good except when some producer
goes off - like when they SENSATIONALIZED the Rodney King assault and reporting
on the LA riots. Today they are digging
into the just released confidential records of the War Department during WW II
– ‘American GIs were tested to see how they would react to mustard gas’ – This
is news? Then they go bother a 90 year
old man whose name they found in the records – he hasn’t talked about it in over
75 years and still didn’t really want to talk about it – Let it go NPR. Have you heard that the government allowed
slavery, was the only government ever to use nuclear weapons in war, tested
nuclear weapons in the atmosphere and submitted GIs to the effects of the atom
bombs – really! I did not need to hear your
‘story’ this morning – I turned the radio off. NPR let it go.
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| St. Barbara Patron of Mission Santa Barbara |
St. Barbara, a legendary figure of the 3rd century said to have been
martyred because he was a Christian. Her
feast day is December 4th. She is associated with
protection from lightning and sudden death.
St, Barbara is the patron of the Field Artillery.
The current church
was started in 1815 and completed in 1820..
Originally with only one bell tower, a second was added in 1831.
Earthquake damaged the mission in 1925.
Repairs took two years. Between
1950 and 1953 the façade and bell towers were rebuilt with an aggregate
material faced with stone.
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| Mission Santa Barbara - sanctuary |
Probably fewer than half of the local Chumash ever became Christians. The Chumash revolted in 1824 because they were not being treated fairly. Peace was restored through the efforts of the Andre, the mayor of the native village.
Santa Barbara was secularized in 1834 but the Franciscans never left. It is the only California missions under
uninterrupted Franciscan control from founding until today.
Today Mission
Santa Barbara is an active
parish in the Archdiocese of Los Angeles. The most commercialized of the missions. Buses,
trolleys, cruise ship visits – cost of
$6 to visit – can’t get into the church except for the back 5 rows
unless you buy the tour. Unfortunate.
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| Santa Barbara Maritime Museum entrance |
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| Honda Point - 1923 A pile-up of US Destroyers on the beach |
S
Santa Barbara Maritime Museum – of course there was a $5 fee to enter but it was worth the cost. History of diving and Santa Barbara, the coast guard, a film on the Titanic – looks like a good bunch of restaurants on the pier.
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| Santa Barbara Harbor |
Santa Barbara Maritime Museum – of course there was a $5 fee to enter but it was worth the cost. History of diving and Santa Barbara, the coast guard, a film on the Titanic – looks like a good bunch of restaurants on the pier.
Founded December 8,
1787 by Father Fermin Lasuen. It was the 11th of
the 21 California Missions.
Immaculate Conception of Mary is the patron of the mission.
The 4th
of 5 missions founded in the Chumash homeland. The first adobe church was completed in
1789. A dam and aqueduct provided water
for the mission and the crops.
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| Mission La Concepcion - site map |
An earthquake destroyed the buildings at Purisma in 1817. The current church, a reconstruction of the 1818 church was built by the CCC between 1935 and 1937.
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| Mission La Concepcion inside church |
The number of converts reached 1,520 in 1804 and declined after that. The converts had no immunity to European disease and the death rate exceeded the birthrate.
Chumash at La
Purisma took part in the
revolt of 1824. There were at least two
battles between the Spanish and the Chumash.
Father Antonio Rodriguez negotiated terms – but following the revolt seven
Chumash were executed and
8 others imprisoned. Life at the mission
was never the same after the revolt.
La Purisma was secularized in
1834. The property was returned to the
Church in 1874, but the buildings were in such poor shape that the Church sold
most of the property.
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| Mission La Concepcion Church |
WEDNESDAY November 4,
2015
WEATHER: it gets cold here at night – 41
at 6 am but it will be in the 70’s by noon, then cools down to the 40’s by 10
or 11 pm
.
TRAVEL: stayed in the area
Buellton,CA –
dudsville unable to pull in any major
network TV channels – 3 PBS channels and a good number of Spanish language
channels and I wonder where people buy groceries? I’ve found a
lot of C stores with most shelves & coolers full of beer and liquor. California has a lot of mountains and valleys
and is subject to earthquakes – I haven’t seen transmitting towers.
THURSDAY November 5,
2015
WEATHER: 39 at 5 am warmed up to the low
70’s.
TRAVEL: Flying Flags Resort & CG, Buellton CA to Ventura, CA to Flying Flags - 1 1/4 hours each way - about 70+ miles
244 CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park, Visitor Center - 113 Harbor Way 4th
floor, Santa Barbara, CA; Visitor Center – 1901 Spinnaker Dr, Ventura, CA
Arrived at Ventura
Harbor around 7:50 am – Channel
Islands VC didn’t open until
8:30 – they did have a walk around garden – good thing the plants were labeled
there were no guides in the guide box.
9 o’clock boat ride
with Island Packers, 1691 Spinnaker Dr, Ventura, CA. Not many choices in November; too late for whale
watching. There are 5 major islands in the Santa Barbara
Channel Islands. Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa
Barbara Island. Like Isle Royale, it is possible to take the
boats and backpack/camp on the islands – with a permit of course – not I. They do offer sea kayak and snorkeling tours
– wrong season for me – this is winter – cold water – wet suits needed and
white shark season – yet on my boat ride there were 6 campers, 4 snorkelers/kayakers,
about 20 day trippers like me and at
least 3 classes of 4th graders from a local school. It was an hour ride out to Santa
Cruz Island. The 4th graders provided the
entertainment - - - - -
Actually, a good thing for the kids
– for many the first time they were ever on a boat, had ever seen dolphins,
maybe even a whale and a sea lion - they had a full day of activities for them
including Chumash history, the ranch
history and operation, hiking and digging in a pile of diatomaceous
earth (used throughout
the world in pool filters).
Diatomaceous earth can form chert. Chert fractures like glass and the Chumash
used the chert for arrowheads and drill bits
and scraping tools. Chert on Santa
Cruz Island is brown due to iron
impurities. Black
chert is called flint,
red chert is called jasper.,
Santa Cruz Island is 22 miles long and from 2-6 miles wide. A central valley splits the island along the
Santa Cruz fault, with volcanic rock on the north and older sedimentary rock on
the south. The Nature
Conservancy and the National
Park Service
preserve and
protect the island..
Santa Cruz Island along with the other Channel Islands is home to plants and animals
that are found nowhere else on earth.
Like the Galapagos Islands or Australia, isolation has
allowed evolution to proceed independently on the islands fostering development
of 145 unique species. Santa
Cruz is host to 60 of
these endemic/unique species. I was
lucky enough to see an Island Jay one of the rarest birds in the world – found
only on Santa Cruz
Island. On the trip out dolphins and possibly two
whales – I didn’t see the spouts others did – I may have spotted two on the way
back. On land I also spotted an Island
Fox – unique to Santa
Cruz Island, and several
salamanders. The island is home to huge
ravens..
If you don’t
snorkel or kayak, the only thing to do on Santa Cruz Island is hike. From the minute I got off the boat around
10:15 am unitl 3pm I really did little else but walk.
There were about 15
of use that went on a walk with a volunteer naturalist. This was worthwhile – I learned a lot –
including that she volunteers about once a month – and talks incessantly – in
real life she’s an attorney. She took us
through campground to Cavern Point. If you land at sea level it is
an uphill walk from there. Of course the
cavern was below the point – it’s a sea cave that we could not see from
above. I continued on to Potato
Harbor. A total walk of perhaps 6 miles. A moderate trail,not nearly as grueling as
Pinnacles.
There is a VC on the Santa
Rosa Island – only saw a
ranger, in a pickup, when we got off and on the boat. This was a huge sheep ranch at once time and
the NPS emphasizes the
sheep and pig operation. Lots of old
rusty farm implements around. Nice
camping spots under Eucalyptus trees if you are into primitive camping – bring everything with you –
pack in and pack out.
It was a good day –
good boat ride. Weather was perfect. I
may stop by Channel Islands Visitor Center later next week when I’m in Oxnard.
FRIDAY November 6,
2015
WEATHER: 41 at 0515 - clear
TRAVEL: Flying Flags Resort & CG, Buellton CA to Camp
Coast Guard, Oxnard, CA
Camp Coast Guard – truly not much more than a RV parking lot – in
fact half of this lot is storage. It
must be USCG property but run
by a couple who live on site. Only water
and electric at the site - Marathon Key at least had a laundry
facility. It is gated with an entry code
so it is secure – not much else.
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| Mission San Buenaventura |
Founded by Father Junipero
Serra on March 31,
1782. It was the 9th of the
21 California Missions.
St. Bonaventure (Giovanni de Fidanza) was a theologian and scholar. He was canonized by Pope
Sixtus IV in 1482.
San Buenaventura
was the 2nd of 5 missions founded in the Chumash
homeland. There were many native
villages or rancherias around the mission with a population
estimated as high as 20,000. Along with
Mission Santa Ines, San Buenaventura led the other missions in agriculture.
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| Mission San Buenaventura - Sanctuary |
The first church
burned in 1791. Construction on the
current church was started in 1794 but it was not completed until 1809. Father Jose Francisco de Paula
Senan was assigned to San
Buenaventura in 1798. He served until his death in 1823. From 1812-15 he also served as Father
President of the California missions.
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| Mission San Buenaventura - Fr. Junipero Serra - California Missions |
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| Mission San Buenaventura Garden |
San Buenaventura was secularized in 1836. It was never abandoned although in the early
1840’s there was no priest and services were held irregularly. The buildings and 46 acres were returned to
the Catholic Church in 1862.
Today the mission
is a parish church in downtown Ventura. It is part of the Archdiocese
of Los Angeles. The church does not appear open to the
public. The grounds are gated. The front
door of the church chained against entry.
You gain entry through a religious store to the right of the
mission. The museum is a room full of
some stuff – the least informative of all the missions I’ve visited so
far. The garden is nice but part of the
parish campus. It just didn’t seem right
paying $4 to say a rosary for vocations.
244 CHANNEL ISLANDS National Park, 1901 Spinnaker Dr, Ventura, CA
Channel Islands Visitor Center was a short drive back to Ventura
Harbor where I was
yesterday for the trip to Santa
Cruz Island.
I saw a half hour film, narrated by Keven Kostner. This is a small Visitor
Center and gift store
manned by two volunteers with a few exhibits.
SATURDAY November 7,
2015
WEATHER: 63 at 5:30 am clear
TRAVEL: Camp Coast Guard, Oxnard, CA to Santa Monica Mountains NRA to San Gabriel to San Fernando to Oxnard
Travel in LA County is slow – like San Francisco,
the “freeways’ plod along at 30 to 35 mph much of the time. I estimated my 37 mile trip from King
Gillette Ranch to Mission
San Gabriel to take 45 minutes; it took 2
hours and 15 minutes.
Camp Coast Guard (Trailer Lot Coast Guard) is adjacent to Naval
Base Ventura County
– Port Hueneme. There are plenty of shopping, restaurants,
even a Ralph’s grocery a mile down the road. – this forms one side of NBVC.
I drove to a McDonald’s (this will probably be a WIFI source) this
morning for coffee and general recon. NBVC has a golf course, possibly an
RV Park, commissary, exchange; I’ll check it out next week.
Plenty of TV
channels available – almost half of them are in a foreign language (Spanish,
Chinese, Japanese). Maybe I’ll be able
to get the Packer game tomorrow.
245 SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS National Recreation Area, Visitor Center – 401 W Hillcrest Dr, Thousand Hills, CA
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| Santa Monica Mountains NRA - an interagency affair National Park Service, California State Parks, and nature conservancies Ventura is on the left in the Oxnard plain - Los Angeles is right and down the coast Malibu is just right of center - a lot of the suburbs in the upper right |
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| Rancho Sierra Vista Satwiwa Native American Cultural Center |
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| Santa Monica Mountains Rancho Sierra Vista Boney Mountain view from Satwiwa Cultural Center |
The Santa Monica Mountains rise above Los Angeles.
Widen to meet the curve of Santa Monica Bay and reach their highest peaks
facing the open ocean. The site is a
conglomeration of several agencies i.e. the National Park Service, California State Parks and nature
conservancies. Together the agencies
provide a place of people to work, live and play while protecting the mountains
and seashore for the future.
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| Santa Monica Mountains NRA - Rancho Sierra Vista - Satwiwa entrance |
Congress established Santa Monica Mountains National
Recreation Area in 1978. There are two
Visitor Centers.
RANCHO SIERRA VISTA/SATWIWA Visitor Center – I stopped here first and am
kind of glad – at least here there were a number of hiking, biking, horse
trails. You had to walk a ¼ mile to the
VC (only manned on weekends) which is
described as a Satwiwa Cultural Center.
I hiked a number of
trails in the area.
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| Santa Monica Mountains Satwiwa Trail |
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| Santa Monica Mountains Satwiwa Trail |
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| Santa Monica Mountains Satwiwa Trail |
The region was and
still is used as Hollywood’s backlot. A
unit of the area called the Paramount Ranch was used for filming many Paramount
pictures to include
the 1950’s series the Cisco Kid and currently The Mentalist. This would be interesting to
explore if time allowed. I found the exhibit interesting.
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| Creature Form the Black Lagoon Location: Amazon Jungle filmed at Will Rogers State Park |
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| Letters from Iwo Jima Location: Island of Iwo Jima filmed at Leo Carillo State PArk |
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| M A S H Location: Korea filmed at Malibu Creek State Park |
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| Mission San Gabriel front of church |
Drive, San Gabriel, CA
Founded September 8, 1771 by Fathers Angel
Fernandez de le Somera and Pedro Benito Cambon. It wasthe 4th of 21 California
Missions. Statues of the founding
fathers are on the front of the current mission church.
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| Gabriel above the tabernacle |
The angel Gabriel appears in the Bible as a messenger from God. He foretold the birth of John the Baptist and Jesus, appearing to Zacharias, father of John and Mary, mother of Jesus.
The Tongva, also called Gabrielino
or Fernandeno, after the two missions founded in the homeland, occupied southern
coastal California. They were among the
wealthiest and most powerful California native people, with an economy based on
bead currency.
Work began on the current church in 1792.
Damaged by an earthquake in 1804 the church was completed in 1805. The altar from the 1790’s is original, as are
the carved statues.
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| Mission San Gabriel - sanctuary |
The population of converts exceeded 1,700 in 1817 and declined after
that.
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| Ceilling of Mission San Gabriel |
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| Mission San Gabriel - sacristy behind altar original wood |
Although there were times when the mission had no priest, the buildings
were never abandoned. Its modern history
begins when the Missionary Order of the Sons of
the Immaculate Heart of Mary took charge of San Gabriel. Known as the
Claretian Missionaries, they have guided Mission
San Gabriel for over 100 year. It is a parish
church in the Archdiocese of Los Angeles.
17 MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY, 15151 San
Fernando Mission Blvd, Mission Hills, CA
I arrived here about 4:30 pm. The
gift shop was open but they would not let me in the church of $5. Something wrong about the paying of an
entrance fee to a church in order to say a rosary for vocations. I wonder what Serra would say? I’ll come back another time. Over an hour drive from where I’m staying.
SUNDAY November 8,
2015
WEATHER: 50’s at 5:30 am – clear – it gets
warm fast – up to the 70’s before noon.
TRAVEL: local area
At least Naval
Base Ventura County – Port Hueneme has bugle calls for beginning of the day and
lowering the flag at 5 pm. I hear them over the loud speakers on the base. It
is refreshing compared to the sound of traffic on the road..
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| Santa Clara Chruch Oxnard, CA |
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| Pirates Grub & Pub Oxnard, CA |
MONDAY November 9,
2015
WEATHER: 57 at. 5am , some clouds over the
mountains but clear along the coast – reached into the upper 70’s sunny and clear.
TRAVEL:
stayed in the area
Finished reading Long Day’s Journey Into
Night: Plays in Production. The book is
a full production history of Long Day’s Journey Into Night by Eugene O’Neill. I
purchased the Cambridge University Press book at the Eugene O’Neill National Monument – Tao
House. It is a detailed account of the most
significant productions throughout the world on the stage, film, and
television. The book portrays the unique
interpretations of the Tyrone family (O’Neill’s family) by such actors as Jason Robards, Frederic March, Laurence Olivier, Jack Lemmon, Ralph Richardson, Katherine
Hepburn, Colleen Dewhurst, Kevin
Spacey and Alan Bates. I do
remember LDJIN being put on at Alverno College, Milwaukee, WI in either the late 60’s or
early 70’s by Robert Pittman on the smaller
stage in the nursing building. I found
it interesting that the Milwaukee REP produced the
play in 1977. Additionally, James Pickering portrayed James Jr. (Jamie) in an August
1973 Theatre Loeb production in Cambridge, MA.
Visited Naval Base Ventura Country – Port
Hueneme Exchange and
Commissary and MWR for Disney deals – didn’t find MWR - and Golf Course to play later in the week. Stopped by local McDonald’s and Starbucks for
WIFI and update to blog postings. I went through the back gate – the guard
looked at my ID and said ‘Welcome Aboard’ – first impressions mean a
lot. The Exchange is one of the best
I’ve seen – 5x better than Great Lakes. Commissary also more than adequate. Doesn’t look like much from the outside but a friendly
base.
TUESDAY November 10,
2015
WEATHER: 56 at 5:30 am, sunny, got up to
the high 60’s - pleasant
.
TRAVEL:
Camp Coast Guard, Oxnard to Reagan Presidential Library to
Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana, Mission Hills, CA to Reagan Presidential
Library to Nixon Presidential Library to Holiday Inn Express, Garden View, CA
Driving along the road to San Fernando I saw a sign for the Reagan
Library – I stopped – at 9 but it did not open until 10 so I drove on to the
Mission and returned – It was the most rewarding stop of the day.
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| Mission San Fernando Rey Chapel entrance form inside the enclosure |
17 MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY de Espana,
15151San Fernando Mission Blvd, Mission Hills, CA
Founded September 8, 1797 by Father
Fermin Lasuen. It was the 17th of
the 21 California Missions.
Ferdinand III (1188-1252), King of Castile and Leon is the patron. He fought the Moors to extend his Christian
kingdom throughout Andulasia, capturing Cordoba and Seville. It is said the glory of the Church and the
happiness of his people were his two guiding motives. He was canonized by Pope Clement X in 1671.
This is the second mission in the land of the Tongva. There were
five rancherias or , already native
villages nearby and the inhabitants had
already been working with Spaniards,
As a result the mission grew rapidly and had 800 converts by 1800.
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| Mission San Ferdinando Rey de Espana sanctuary |
The last mission church on this location was completed in 1806. It fell into disrepair by 1850. The roof had collapsed and the walls were exposed to rain. A new roof was installed in 1897. Further restoration began in 1916, and was completed in 1941. The 1806 church was badly damaged by an earthquake in 1971 and had to be demolished. The current church was completed in 1974 as an accurate reconstruction of the 1806 church.
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| Not a traditional setup for a mission - lack of walls |
San Fernando was secularized
in 1834. At that time, the mission still had 32,000 grapevines and 1,600 fruit
trees. There were still more than 700 neophytes.
San Fernando was sold in
1846. Buildings were used as a warehouse
and stable. The interior of the
quadrangle was once a hog farm. The
mission and 75 acres of land were returned to the Catholic Church in 1861.
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| Graves of Bob & Delores hope |
A very large cemetery adjoins the Mission at the rear. Bob and Delores Hope must have been supporters of the Mission - Between the chapel and the cemetery is the Bob Hope Memorial Garden. Bob and Delores Hope are buried there.
RONALD REAGAN
PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY and MUSEUM, 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, CA (Reagan was 40th President of the United
States)
The Ronald
Reagan Presidential Library & Museum opened in 1991.
Perched on a mountaintop, it has sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Impressive. Presidential Drive has flags
honoring every President from Washington to Obama – the drive up itself is a
history lesson – on the drive down the reverse honors US landmarks and events.“America’s best days are yet to come. Out proudest moments are yet to be. Our most glorious achievements are just ahead.” Ronald Reagan
The museum
charts the life of Reagan through quotes, pictures, video, and audio – to
include his hosting of the General Electric Theatre on TV. This museum is a must see – inspiring. Admission was $13 – I spent a little over 3
hours here – could easily spend more or shorten the tour as required. I’ll let the pictures tell the story.
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| Reagan Speech only president to ever to a union member just before assasination attempt |
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| Reagan Campaign |
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| Reagan - values |
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| Air Force One |
Air Force One is displayed in a 90,000 sq ft pavilion.
Reagan was responsible for ordering the current Air
Force One a Boeing 747 – much larger than the one on
display. A Marine
One Helicopter is
also on display.
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| Air Force One - layout |
Additionally,
there is a changing exhibit which currently features “Football” – Reagan had a
role in Knute Rockne All
American – where he
became associated with the ‘win one for the Gipper’ line.
The exhibit covers college as well as professional football. I spent some time here – I thought the
Football Hall of Fame in Ohio was not worth my time.
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| Ronald Reagan |
“Once you begin a great movement, there’s no telling where it will end. We meant to change a nation and instead we changed the world” Ronald Reagan, Farewell Address to the Nation, January 11, 1989
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| Ronald Ragan - Berlin Wall - Lech Walesa |
NIXON PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY, 18001 Yorba Linda Blvd, Yorba Linda, CA
This was my
primary goal for the day, fortunately I found the Reagan Library – this was a
letdown and failed to meet expectations – primarily because the exhibits were
closed even though there was a $6 admission charge. |
| Nixon Birth Home |
The Nixon Presidential Library and Museum is located on the former site of the Nixon family’s small citrus farm. There is a garden. Not enough here to entice me back.
Richard M. Nixon
was 37th President of the United States from January 20, 1969, until
August 9, 1974. Nixon was a lawyer, a
naval officer during WW II, and a politician who was elected congressman,
senator, vice president and president.
Nixon’s time in the White House tumultuous, including ending the Vietnam
War and reopening American contacts with China and the controversy of
Watergate.
Richard M. Nixon
died Aprill 22, 1994.
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| Richard & Pat Nixon Graves |
WEDNESDAY November 11, 2015
VETERANS DAY
WEATHER: started in the 50’s probably got
to 70’s then cooled again when the sun went down
TRAVEL: I first tried to drive to Disneyland – it only
3 miles away – a fairly straight drive but parking - - - - - - I forgot it can
be a nightmare - - - - so I turned around drove back to the Holiday Inn and got
there just in time to meet the shuttle and get a ticket from the hotel – I
think the fee was $5. I should have done
this in the first place.
In rush, I
forgot my phone, so the only pictures of me you will find at Disney – photo ID
for the pass and on rides . . . . . got
to the park around 10 am
DISNEYLAND/DISNEY CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE
I wanted to go
to both parks – a park hopper was 99+56 or $145. For military retired I got a 3 day park
hopper pass for $132. So I could return
for the next two days. I saw a lot in
one day.
DISNEYLAND
ADVENTURELAND - Jungle Cruise was closed
Got a FastPass for Indiana Jones
Adventure 1220 – 1320
NEW ORLEANS SQUARE
Pirates of the Caribbean - waited about 30 minutes to ride, yes Davy Jones
& Jack Sparrow and the regular yo-ho yo-ho gang
Haunted Mansion Holiday – all about Jack Skeleton, decorated for the season
FANTASYLAND
Pinnochio’s Daring Journey – less than 45 minute line
Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride – less then 45 minute line
ADVENTURELAND
returned to Indiana
Jones Adventure Fast Pass
TOMMORROWLAND
Got a FastPass for Star Tours – The
Adventure Continues 1820-1730
FANTASYLAND
Matterhorn Bobsled – got into the Single Rider line was on in less 30
minutes
DISNEY CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE
PARADISE PIER
Got a FastPass
for California Screamin’ 1720-1820
HOLLYWOOD LAND
2:20 pm Show For the First Time In Forever – A “Frozen”
Sing-Along Celebration what can I say – this show was just great
– a mix of actors on stage and clips from the film - I let the little girls do
the sing-alongs
Walked through “a
bug’s land” - CARS LAND
PACIFIC WHARF
4 – 4:45 Wine Country Trattoria -Lunch/Dinner of chardonnay and an aragula Salad
HOLLYWOOD LAND
The Twilight Zone – Tower of Terror – waited an hour for a 5 minute
ride
PARADISE PIER
Returned to California
Screamin’ FastPass - a good roller coaster ride, one loop
DISNEYLAND
TOMMORROWLAND
Returned to Star
Tours – The Adventure Continues – there still was a 20 minute wait – this is the same ride I was on when
in Las Vegas at the Hilton – not all that great
FANTASYLAND
Peter Pan’s Flight – there was a one hour wait for this ride – it is
the same at DisneyWorld – somehow I don’t see the reason for it – yet I did
stand in line for an hour for a ride
that I’ve been on at least 5 times before
MAIN STREET
8:20 pm The Disneyland
Story Presenting Great Moments With Mr. Lincoln – attended this show – Lincoln . . . .
DOWNTOWN DISNEY
Shopping and
eating establishments and hotels. I did
have a $10 Sam Adam’s Seasonal Ale while killing time.
The parade in Disneyland was at 8:45 with fireworks at
9:30. I caught the 10 pm shuttle back to
the Holiday Inn Express.
I spent about 12
hours in the parks with 12 attractions and dinner – one per hour. Get a FastPass for attractions if possible –
it saves standing in a long line time – still a lot of walking.
If you visit
here take the hotel shuttles or better yet stay at a resort hotel on the property
THURSDAY November 12,
2015
WEATHER: same – morning in the 50’s warms
to the 70’s - sunny
TRAVEL: Holiday Inn Express, Garden
Grove CA to Angel
Stadium to Dodger
Stadium to Ventura
Harley-Davidson,Carmello, CA Camp Coast Guard, Oxnard
The stay at the Holiday
Inn Express was refreshing
– high speed internet in the room, coffee 24 hours per day, breakfast in the
morning, Disney via a shuttle
only 3 miles - still 30 minutes away –
but no hassle with parking.
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| Angels Stadium |
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| Angels Stadium layout I didn't take a tour so I didn't get in |
Decided to go to Anaheim Angels Stadium, 2000 E Gene Autry Way, Anaheim (only 3 miles surprisingly it only took 10 mintues to drive there – no traffic).
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| Dodger Stadium - the high end |
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| Dodger Stadium From from the top of the high end I didn't take the tour but the field was open |
Then, on to Dodger Stadium, 1000 Elysian Park Avenue, Los Angeles (a 31 mile drive – took 1 hour due to slowdowns on the I-5 and a drive through downtown Los Angeles - but I almost have to pass it in order to get back to Oxnard.) I’ll visit the stadiums but may not see a game there – traffic in LA is “just one big freeway” – and it moves slow. I should have done the same in San Francisco for the Giants and Oakland Athletics – no real desire to visit those parks – too much trouble to get there. In my quest of a stadium pin and team shot glass I may have to go online to complete someone’s collection.
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| Dodgers Stadium View of downtown LA from the high end parking lot |
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| Dodgers Stadium All Star Managers/Coaches |
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| and before LA it was Brooklyn. Was it Ebbetts Field? |
Read a small
pamphlet published by Western National Parks Association on Juan Baptista de Anza National Historic
Trail. I’ve been reading about de
Anza and getting
passport stamps of the Historic Trail at several NPS sites and occasionally a blurb at
some missions about de Anza. However, until I read the pamphlet/book I did
not realize that de Anza not only linked
together trails for a supply route from Baja to Alta California but was responsible for founding
a Spanish colony in San Francisco.
FRIDAY November 13,
2015
WEATHER: 47 at 5:30 am but it warms quick
once the sun comes up
TRAVEL: local area
Updated blog at
McDonald’s, did laundry, RV dealer, post office, washed truck, commissary,
exchange, golf
 |
| Seabees Golf Course Hole #12 Naval Base Ventura County Port Hueneme |
 |
| Seabees Golf Course Hole #12 from tee Naval Base Ventura County Port Hueneme The sun was setting |
SEABEE GOLF COURSE – Naval Base Ventura County – Port Hueneme is a
flat course – but even with the drought this one is green – some places in the
rough are actually spongy. Being flat
and fairly straight, I thought I would do well – not exactly. I got a twilight
rate $10 + $9 for the cart. The front
nine played in 75 minutes – I started around 3pm. On the front nine, I shot 48 with 21 putts
and 3 balls in the sand. The back nine
started badly. In the first 4 holes I
lost 3 balls and put 2 in the sand with a score of 28 after 4 holes. By 5:15 it was past twilight, I approached
the 18th hole hit the ball – had no idea where it went and decided enough
after 17 holes. I shot 45 and 19 putts
on 8 holes of the back nine. Well, it
was FRIDAY the 13th.
.
SATURDAY November 14,
2015
WEATHER: 70’ to 60’s clear and sunny..
TRAVEL: Left Trailer Lot Camp Coast Guard, Oxnard to Boulder
Creek RV Park, Lone Pine,
CA. A trip of about 240 miles east and
north into the mountains. Good roads all
the way - about 5 hours.
 |
| Boulder Creek Entrance |
Sunset is about
3:45 – it gets dark here quicker than along the coast due to the mountains
blocking the setting sun.
 |
| Front of Santa Rosa Church Lone Pine, CA |
Attended 5 pm Mass
at Santa Rosa Catholic Church in Lone Pine. Small church – only
21 people including the priest in attendance.
The pastor was in Furnace Creek; a retired Monsignor (red garments) said
mass. He was not overbearing – his
homily about the gospel was on the spot – ‘just always be ready – and ask for
forgiveness’ – a bit forgetful – had to come back to say the profession of
faith after the homily – he apologized – said he was ‘old.’
SOME HISTORY:
Apparently this guy
says mass frequently in the Maronite Rite.
I had to look that up: The Church of Antioch in Syria (the ancient Roman Province of Syria) is
considered an apostolic See by virtue of having been founded by St. Peter. It
was one of the ancient centers of the Church, as the New Testament attests, and
is the source of a family of similar Rites using the ancient Syriac language
(the Semitic dialect used in Jesus' time and better known as Aramaic). Its
Liturgy is attributed to St. James and the Church of Jerusalem.
• Maronite – Never separated from Rome. Maronite
Patriarch of Antioch. The liturgical language is Aramaic. The 3 million
Maronites are found in Lebanon (origin), Cyprus, Egypt, Syria, Israel, Canada,
US, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina and Australia.The monsignor’s homily referenced translations – Aramaic (Maronite) to English; compared to the Latin (Roman) to English. According to him the Maronite Rite has not changed since 410.
The Western Latin/Roman Rite was established after the Council of Trent in face of the Reformation and a need to standardize. As a consequence of the Second Vatican Council's Dogmatic Constitution on the Sacred Liturgy, Pope Paul VI undertook a reform of the Mass of the Roman Rite, promulgating a revised rite with the Missal of 1970. This Missal has since been modified twice (1975 and 2002). Mass celebrated in accordance with this missal is the Ordinary Form of the Roman Rite.
BOTTOM LINE: There’s more but the Maronite Rite is acceptable. Religion is a complicated ‘business’
I think it may a
three dog night – already 49 at 7:20.
This may be my coldest night on the road since last November when I was in
Carolina.
SUNDAY November 15, 2015
WEATHER: it was 39 at 5:15 am, clear and
starry but you could see traces or
morning twilight over the mountains to the east of the valley and amazingly
it’s 36 at 7:10 am. Forecast calls for
wind and a high in the 50’s – possibly rain – snow in the High Sierras –
already is some on the mountains to the west .
It got windy around 0930 – and storm clouds brewing - - - .no rain here
but the mountains west are covered in clouds – probably snowing
TRAVEL: Lone Pine area and Manzanar
NHS. With the wind I’m glad I’m not driving today.
LONE PINE, California
In the 1870’s Lone
Pine, CA was a
supply town for the silver and mining towns of Kearsage, Cerro Gordo, and
Darwin. Close by (west of Lone Pine) is Mt. Whitney EL 14,497 the highest elevation
in the lower 48. This valley, Owens Valley, is just east of the Sierras.
In 1872, an earthquake leveled Lone Pine.
The landscape shifted as much as 20 feet in some places and gave birth
to the Alabama Hills. There must have
been some Confederate sympathy here. The
Alabama Hills got there name after the CSS
Alabama. Now the Alabama Hills are used as film locations for
western movies.
A lake that once
existed is gone due to William Mullholland and the City of Los Angeles which bought up land to divert Sierra water to LA.
Those waters now flow into the 233 mile long Los
Angeles aqueduct and the bed of
the lake has created a flat, salt, dust bowl that adds to air pollution. A lake gone here to divert water to LA; and Yosemite’s
Hetch Hetchy
Valley damned to
create a lake for water to flow to SF.
Mulholland’s career with the LA Water Department ended in March 1928 when the St. Francis Dam failed 12 hours
after he and his assistant gave it a safety inspection. The resulting flood
took 431 lives; the 1889 Johnstown Flood (Pennsylvania) took 2,209 lives..
Unable to
receive any HD ‘free’ TV channels in Lone Pine.
The radio carries two types of music 1) Christian and 2)
Country/Western. Even NPR doesn’t have coverage here.
In 2006 the Jim
and Beverly Rogers Film History Museum opened its doors.
After the Packers and visit to Manzanar I’ll stop by the museum .
GREEN BAY 16 (6-3) vs
DETROIT xx (2-7) at HOME – Game time noon; 10 am in California. Local FOX (Los Angeles) is not carrying the
game. The bars in town are not ‘sports
bars’ and I believe they could care less about Green Bay and Detroit. .
I spent considerable time trying to figure out how to watch this
game on FOX via U-Verse on my laptop – there was something telling me – waste of
time. Based on what I’ve been watching,
the record should be 3-6 – they were really lucky to win 6 in a row.
 |
| Sierra in the backgrournd |
Manzanar National Historic Site was established to preserve the stories of the internment of nearly 120,000 Japanese Americans during World War II and to serve as a reminder to this and future generations of the fragility of American civil liberties
An excellent Visitor Center in the former High School Auditorium. A small book store with a fine film about the internment camps.and relocation of Japanese Americans during WW II.
 |
| Block 14 - A typical living unit - reconstructed |
 |
| Block 14 |
 |
| Controversial Loyality Questionairre Question 28 |
 |
| Loyalty Questionaire Govennement of the people? |
 |
| Loyalty Questionnaire A Witch Hunt |
 |
| Manzanar - Rebuilt Guard Tower but this was not a prison? not a concentration camp? These were American Citizens who were displaced by the goevernment they lost their homes and businesses and belongings Only allowed to take what they could carry |
Coming from Los Angeles and other communities in California and
Washington, Manzanar’s internees
were unaccustomed to the harsh desert environment. Summer temperatures soared
as high as 110ºF. In winter, temperatures frequently plunged below freezing.
Throughout the year strong winds swept through the valley, often
blanketing the camp with dust and sand. Internees covered knotholes in the
floors with tin can lids, but dust continued to blow in between the floorboards
until linoleum was installed in late 1942.
“…one of
the hardest things to endure was the communal latrines, with no partitions; and
showers with no stalls.” Rosie Kakuuchi
 |
| Manzanar - the internees tired to make this home - these built gardens for contemplation |
 |
| Manzanar Remains of Japanese Garden once filled with flowing water and surroudned by green trees |
The town of Manzanar—the
Spanish word for “apple orchard”—developed
as an agricultural settlement beginning in 1910. Farmers grew apples, pears,
peaches, potatoes, and alfalfa on several thousand acres surrounding the town.
 |
| Manzanar Cemetery Memorial built by Catholics & Budhists |
In 1942 the U.S. Army leased 6,200 acres at Manzanar from Los Angeles to establish a center to hold Japanese Americans during World War II. Though some valley residents opposed the construction of the internment camp, others helped build it and worked here.
The Manzanar Visitor Center is in the
former high school auditorium. It was built by internees in 1944. For decades
after the war the building was used by the county as a heavy equipment garage.
 |
| Manzanar - Reagan signs the redress bill 1988 Former internees get a letter of apology and eligible for a $20,000 governrment payment |
Ansel Adams
photographed the camp and in 1944 published a book. It was poorly received and
sparked protests at the time. The book, Born
Free and Equal, has recently been republished.
 |
| Lone Pine Film History Museum |
 |
| scene form Gunga Din - in the Alabama Hills with the Sierras in the background - they were supposed to be the Himalayas |
 |
| Scene form Tremors Reba McIntire , Kevin Bacon and ? |
Tom Mix Lash Larue Buck Jones Hoot Gibson
Hoppy Gene Roy the
‘Duke’ Randolph Scott The Lone Ranger
MONDAY November 16,
2015
 |
| Owens Lake (dry) A sandstorm along US 190 Sand drifting across the like road like snow |
TRAVEL: Boulder
Creek RV Park, Lone Pine, Ca
to Furnace Creek RV Resort, Death Valley, CA and back.
 |
| Death Valley Western Entrance US 190 Not Very Inviting |
Entered Death Valley NP through the west entrance on US
190. Owens Lake (dry) was a sandstorm. I had to cross 2 mountain ranges to get to Death
Valley. The Inyo and the Panamint.
It was clear and windy. Out
of curiosity I recorded the temperatures
at the Elevation Markers as I passed them
Going to Death Valley Return
to Lone Pine
EL Temp Time EL Temp Time
4000 40 0915 Father Crowley 4000 43 1630
3000 46 0930 3000 50 1623
2000 55 0945 2000 52 1611
3000 51 0947 3000 46 1609
4000 45 0949 4000 39 1606
3000 45 1000 3000 50 1557
2000 51 1007 2000 55 1554
1000 NOT RECORDED 1000 61 1550
0 64 1027
A high of 70 in Death
Valley. The wind never really let up.
 |
| Father Crowley "Padre" of the Valley Unable to capture the depth of this canyon on film the wind was very very strong - in some places sounded like a freight train |
Panamint Springs advertised gasoline at $5.48 a gallon – a rip-off – unless of course you
are nearly out of gas. Not much here a
campground and general store.
 |
| Panamint Valley - Salt Flats |
 |
| Stovepipe Wells Village |
flyers at low
altitude. Crossed Towne Pass EL 4956 in the Panamint Range and down into Death
Valley
 |
| Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes |
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes – sand dunes are sand dunes - nothing special here except the wind forever blowing from the north. These may be the only sand dunes in Death Valley.
-
 |
| Harmony Borax Works |
The Harmony Borax Works is a piece of history. There is a short trail with interpretive markers that explains the history – it didn’t function very long.
 |
| Harmony Borax Works Refining Borax |
 |
| Furnace Creek Visitor Center |
I drove to Furnace
Creek Ranch to check out the
RV park – did not speak to anyone – they were busy checking people in – one
word will describe this place – CROWDED. Can’t imagine what peak season is like.
By luck I took the Beatty
Cutoff to link up with Daylight
Pass Road. There is an unmanned information station at
the junction of the Cutoff and Daylight
Pass Road. I drove about 2 miles past Daylight
Pass EL 4316 and turned
around. I did not go to Beatty or Rhyolite (ghost town.)
Headed toward Ubehebe
Crater but the signs said
closed due to road damage but the road was open. This was a 32 mile one-way drive – I’ll check with a
ranger before driving to a dead end.
Drove back to Stovepipe
Wells Village – of course the
ranger station was still closed – but this time there was a NP vehicle in the
lot doesn’t matter still closed.
By now it was 1430
– so I drove the 2 ½ mile uphill dirt road to the trailhead of Mosaic
Canyon. Mosaic Canyon Trail 4 miles round trip. A walk up a narrow, polished marble-walled
canyon. Wind at my back going up –
blowing in my face coming back. I wish I
had a much deeper understanding of geology.
I see it but wish I could get excited about it. Very windy. This was a 1 ½ hour moderate trail – the walk into the canyon
is uphill and there are at least 2 places where you have to negotiate a steep –
near vertical – five - seven foot rise.
 |
| Mosaic Canyon End of the Trail |
 |
| Mosaic Canyon Dolomite |
 |
| Mosaic Canyon Trail |
I filled up with
gas in Lone Pine at $3.399/gal and got back to Boulder Creek RV to find a tree branch on my
trailer. Whatever kind of tree was next
to my trailer it is now all but devoid of branches. The wind is very strong. I got a park maintenance man with a ladder to
take it off the roof. Doesn’t appear to
be any damage but the branch was at over an inch thick and about 10 feet long.
The wind is
constant and the temp is 42. Now I know what the folks at Manzanar
were talking
about – nothing like a Los Angeles climate.
Definitely a
three dog night - at 8 pm it’s 42 with a
steady wind of 20-30 mph with gusts to at least 50 mph or more – rocks the
trailer occasionally.
TUESDAY November 17,
2015
WEATHER: still windy in Lone Pine but not blowing like it was yesterday. clear, sunny, 40's
TRAVEL: Boulder
Creek RV, Lone Pine, CA to Furnace Creek RV, Death Valley, CA
247 DEATH VALLEY National Park Death Valley, CA
 |
| Furnace Creek |
Checked in to Furnace Creek Ranch around 1150, they sent me to a site that was occupied. Then they sent me to site that was difficult to back into. The RV park is small nestled into a maze of cabins, stores, and parking lots. Adequate, but a pain. Restrooms are close but showers are at the pool. WIFI slow but adequate.
Zabriskie Point a maze of eroded and vibrantly colored badlands, this view is one of Death Valley’s most famous. Zabriskie Point is a poplar sunrise and sunset viewing location.
CLOSED DUE TO FLOODING -
Twenty Mule Team Canyon Auto Tour another winding road through unworldly badlands. This is a 2.7 mile one way loop drive –
unpaved.
 |
| Dantes View looking north |
 |
| Dantes View looking south |
Dantes View this point if characterized as the most breathtaking view in Death Valley. The overlook is more than 5,000 ft above the Death Valley floor. It was 50 up here. This road is paved and open to vehicles less than 25 feet in length. The last ¼ mile is a 15% grade. There are at least two places where trucks can drop their trailers.
 |
| Dantes View looking north up Death Valley The picture does not do the view justice |
 |
| Badlands Trail - Broken sign below Zabriskie Point Lookout "Golden Canyon Trail Trailhead Golden Canyon 20 mi 32 km Via Gower Gulch 27 mi" Very confusing |
 |
| Badlands Trail - most of what I walked was the the bottom of a wash out |
 |
| Badlands Trail Another confusing sign I had been walking straight RIGHT Now the Trail sign says LEFT where I came from |
 |
| Badlands Trail What I called Deadend Gulch on the return I took the washout to the south below Zabriskie Point |
I did explore another gulch that dead-ended to the south of Zabriske Point. Overall, the trail was not that difficult - didn’t see any people in the Badlands, the trail was just badly marked and confusing. I wouldn’t want to be here when the sky cries. I figured I had walked at least 4 miles.
Seems most of Death Valley NP could use a little more accurate signage.
 |
| Death Valley Furnace Creek Ranch - '"Red sky at night, sailors delight" Tomorrow should be a good day |
WEDNESDAY November 18,
2015
WEATHER: today was a perfect day – sunny –
clear
TRAVEL: from Furnace Creek to the southern end of the
Valley as far as the road was open and
also to the northern end - at least 70
miles from one end to the other
TODAY WAS A DAY OF HIKING
 |
| Golden Canyon Trail - Gower Gulch Loop |
247 DEATH VALLEY National Park Death Valley, CA
 |
| Golden Canyon Trail |
Golden Canyon Interpretive Trail is a one mile one way through a colorful
canyon. It an interpretive trial and of
course there were no trail guides available.
The trail was marked mostly. The
trail continued uphill to a formation called Manly Bacon. This
segment was .8 miles and connected with the Badlands Loop that I walked
yesterday. The connection was not the Badlands
Loop I walked yesterday. It did connect with the Gower
Gulch Loop and for .2 mile
was the same as the Badlands Loop which I had trouble with yesterday.
 |
| Gower Gulch Trail |
From there on the Gower
Gulch Loop proceeded 1.2
miles down a washout until it started to get very narrow and steep. There were no markers. I was reminded of John
Muir on the glaciers in Alaska i.e. he crossed crevasses that
he knew he couldn’t go back over again.
Thankfully, the drops were passable only one was more than 10 feet (I
got down but had to consider if I could climb it). This part of the trail was
not marked. I ran into a geologist in
this narrow part of the Gower Gulch. of course, he was studying the rocks. He said the flood occurred Sunday
October 18, that was the day I traveled to Yosemite – when Tioga Pass was closed..
 |
| Gower Gulch Trail Yes it is narrow and almost straight down |
 |
| Gower Gulch Trail The dropoff - dry waterfall the geologist told me to avoid it looks like the trail but is not the drop is over 50 ft |
Thanks to the
geologist, he told me that the Gower Gulch trail appears to come to very steep drop off – this
is a dry waterfall. He said don’t got
down it – the trail is to the right. Of course, it wasn’t marked. Another .8 of a mile past the dry fall (per the map) I got back to
the Golden Canyon Trailhead parking lot. I started at 0800
and finished at 1030. A 4 mile walk that
took 2.5 hours - I think I walked farther.
(START 0800 END 1030)
 |
| The Devils Golf Course |
 |
| Natural Bridge - Dry Waterfalls |
This was a 2 mile trail round trip which took 30 minutes to walk. (START 1110 END 1150) - just doesn't sound right.
 |
| Natural Bridge Trail |
 |
| Natural Bridge Trail-head Looking into Death Valley |
 |
| Natural Bridge Trail Dry Waterfall |
 |
| Badwater Basin 282 Feet Below Sea Level |
 |
| Bad Water Salt Flats - a 5 mile wallk to the other side |
 |
| Artist's Palette Distant View |
 |
| Artist Drive Entrance |
Artists Drive Auto Tour is a scenic loop drive through multi-hued volcanic and sedimentary hills. This is a 9 mile one way paved road for vehicles less than 25 ft in length. It takes you to a feature called Artists Palette. This drive was relaxing and full of color.
On the way back from Furnace
Creek I stopped at the Furnace
Creek Inn and the Furnace
Creek Visitor Center.
 |
| Artist's Palette |
 |
| Ubehebe Crater Trail Little Ubehebe Crater |
 |
| Ubehebe Crater Trail |
Ubehebe Crater was formed a few hundred years ago when a massive volcanic explosion caused by steam
pressure when hot magma reached the underground water
table, shattered the silence of Death Valley. When the dust and cinders settled a 600 ft deep crater remained.
table, shattered the silence of Death Valley. When the dust and cinders settled a 600 ft deep crater remained.
 |
| Ubehebe Crater |
Ubehebe Crater Trail - They say it the trail is a1.5 mile loop hike – seemed more like 2+. circle around the rim of Ubehebe Crater the first half is mostly uphill. There is also a Little Ubehebe.There are some great views here. You get a different view of Death Valley. (START 1530 END 1635). It was a 70 mile drive back to Furnace Creek. I took over 100 photos today.
THURSDAY November 19,
2015
WEATHER: 49 at 5 am, clear; should get up to 70
TRAVEL: Furnace Creek RV Resort, Death Valley, CA to Twenty-Nine Palms RV, Twenty-Nine Palms, CA. This was a 6 ½ hour 273 mile trip mostly through the desert. I drove the first 57 miles without a car in front of or behind me. I past some pretty desolate country. Fort Irwin, the Army’s National Training Center (NTC), is on the southern boundary of Death Valley. China Lake Naval Weapons Center is adjacent and west of Fort Irwin.
 |
| Twentynine Pams RV & Golf Resort Twentynine Palms. CA I did not play the 9 hole course It was all desert brown including the 'greens' |
I finally
connected with I-15 at Baker, CA but opted to drive to Barstow and take CA 247
to connect with CA 62 to Twentynine Palms rather than save an hour but take a questionable
road through Mojave National Preserve to US 66 to Amboy to Twenty Nine
Palms. I think this is the part of US 66 that Radiator
Springs was on as I-40
goes east west just north of US 66.
I could stay
here in Death Valley at least 2 more days. There are
still plenty of trails to hike and the weather is just right. Something tells me I would not want to be
here in the summer. The skies are clear
and I almost got up at 3 am yesterday to here a ranger “sky” talk at Harmony
Borax Works. I even set the alarm. However, the warmth of the covers felt good -
I did not get up. It would have been
cool but not unbearable – no wind.
Funny, I see plenty of stars, clear and bright, but the Milky
Way does not stand
out as much as it did in the Everglades. And in the Everglades I could sure see the glow of
Miami 70 miles away over the horizon.
 |
| Twentynine Palms RV - trailer very nice sites |
Twentynine Palms RV & Golf Resort has WIFI that works. I can get radio stations again and it appears
TV reception is a possibility, although I don’t think I’ll have time to even
turn it on. A nice place but kind of ho hum – ok so you’re here. I made this reservation at least six months
ago.
 |
| Joshua Tree North Entrance |
 |
| Joshua Trees |
This is the
desert. Joshua Tree NP has three Visitor Centers, I
stopped at Oasis
VC in Twentynine
Palms, CA and the Joshua Tree VC in Joshua Tree, CA. A third is Cottonwood VC about an hour drive through the park near the south entrance.
 |
| Joshua Tree NP - map |
In the 1930's, Minerva Hoyt, a community activist and desert lover, recognized the threats to the desert from humans. She saw beauty in the spiny plants and slithery creatures where others did not. She persuaded President Franklin D. Roosevelt to proclaim Joshua Tree National Monument in 1936. In 1994, as part of the California Desert Protection Act, Congress re-named the area Joshua National Park. The park protects 794,000 acres – nearly ¾ of it is designated wilderness – where the Mojave and Colorado Deserts converge.
 |
| Joshua Tree NP - lots of rocks These are an igneous rock - volcanic the softer rock around and above it was worn away by erosion |
With the short time
I had today I stopped at the Oasis VC and asked a ranger what I should not miss. She gave me a list of hiking trails and
sites. I’ll come back on Saturday and
see how much I can put into a day.
Today, I just drove
the Park Blvd from the Oasis
VC (North Entrance
Station) to the Joshua Tree VC (West Entrance Station). A 1 ½
hour drive – it was actually a recon to see what I really want to see later.
FRIDAY November 20,
2015
WEATHER: 47 at 4:45 am but it got up to
the 81 depending where and at what elevation you were at.
TRAVEL: Twentynine
Palms through Amboy to Mojave NPres to Kelso VC to Cima to Hole-In-The-Wall VC and back to Twentynine Palms and
Joshua Tree NP
 |
| Mojave National Preserve |
Mojave National Preserve is vast. At 1.6
million acres, it is the third largest unit of the National Park System in the
contiguous United States (Death Valley and Yellowstone are 1st and 2nd).. Impossible
to see it all in a single visit.
 |
| Mojave National Preserve - a 2 hour drive north from Twentynine Palms I drove North to Kelso past the Kelso Dunes; then NorthEast to Cima following the railroad tracks; Back to the dirt Mojave Road and 14 miles then back about 3 miles to walk the Rock Spring Loop Trail; then back to the dirt Black Canyon Trail and 12 more miles to the Hole In The Wall Visitor Center; then the road is asphalt for over 20 miles back to I-40 |
 |
| Signage at entrance ot Mojave National Prserve Jct of Kelbaker Rd and I-10 |
 |
| Kelso The Old Train Station is now the Visitor Center |
It was just a little over a 2 hour drive to Mojave National Preserve’s Kelso Visitor Center. I left at 7am and got there around 9:10 am. Of course, I and others were too early, it did not open until 10am. Mojave NP is huge. Mojave has 165 miles of paved road and 70 miles of unpaved roads.
 |
| Kelso - a railroad town-The trains still pass through here but other than the restored depot there is nothing here |
 |
| Mojave Cedar Canyon Road butte |
 |
| Mojave - Cedar Canyon Road Mile Maker 13 At this point I was heading south and figured I had past the trail head for the Rock Springs Trail - so I turned around Note cinder cone formations |
After I entered the park on the Kelbaker Road it was still 23 miles to Kelso. There are long distances between places. It consumed 4 hours to get here and back so I only walked two trails and did visit the Hole In the Wall Visitor Center. I drove at least 22 miles of improved dirt roads. Surprisingly, even after a hard rain and some flooding last month, they were in good shape. I made good time and they were not dusty – better than anything I ever drove at Fort McCoy.
This is
desert. There was more to see and do
than one day will allow. I drove pass
the Kelso Dunes which are much larger than those in Death Valley. There were a few trails that I
wanted to visit but time and distance just did not allow (Teutonia
Peak Trail and the Cinder
Cone Lava Beds). Lava tubes right here in the Mojave Desert –
no need to go to Hawaii.
 |
| Rock Spring Loop Trail - map |
The Rock Spring Loop Trail is described as a 1 mile loop
that starts at the Rock House and leads to a well
known watering hole and site of an 1860’s military outpost.. This one mile walk took me 50 minutes to walk
– I don’t think I’m that slow – it is probably a bit longer. The trail is
marked.
 |
| Rock Spring Trail - Rock House |
 |
| Rock Springs Trail View of the dirt road |
 |
| Rock Spring Trail |
 |
| Rock Spring Trail this is the wash from the spring dry now |
 |
| Rock Spring Trail Cholla Cactus |
 |
| Mojave - Hole-In-The-Wall Visitor Center desolate looking place The Rings Loop Trail goes around - up and over the formation to the rear of the building |
Hole in the Wall VC seems like a lonely place. There were two rangers there – who knows what they do – there was no one else around. I did walk and climb the Rings Loop Trail. The formations definitely allow for the name Hole in the Wall. Banshee Canyon is narrow and has two 12-15 foot ascents where you use rings to climb the wall. Interesting.
I planned to walk the Hole in the Wall Nature Trail but when I got to the trailhead, there were no interpretive trail guides. That was it!
I decided to drive back to Twentynine Palms and hopefully walk a trail in Joshua Tree NP before it got too dark.
 |
| Rings Loop Trail The back side of the formation Holes in the Wall |
 |
| Rings Loop Trail This is the 1st set of rings looking gup |
 |
| Rings Loops Trail Here it here is the start of the climb |
 |
| Rings Loop Trail 2nd set of rings looking down |
 |
| Hole In The Wall Nature Trail No Trail Guides |
 |
| Rings Loop Trail Petroglyphs |
 |
| Joshua Tree - Hidden Valley Trail map |
248 JOSHUA TREE National Park, Twentynine Palms, CA
I stopped at the Twentynine
Palms VC and proceeded to
the Hidden Valley Loop Trail. This is also described as a 1
mile loop but took me 45 minutes to walk.
The rock-enclosed valley is rumored to have been used by cattle
rustlers. This wa a good trail. A lot of interpretive markers - I took 20 pictures.
 |
| Hidden Valley Trail |
 |
| Hidden Valley Trail |
 |
| Hidden Valley Trail Rots of Roks |
 |
| Hidden Valley Rock Climber |
SATURDAY November 21, 2015
WEATHER: 47 at 5am; clear sunny up to 65
by 8am, pleasant 70’s little of no wind
TRAVEL: Twentynine
Palms south on US 62
and entered Joshua Tree NP through the Joshua Tree entrance and drove to the trailhead for the Wall
Street Mill and Barker
Dam Trails - drive to Keys
View - then followed
the park roads to the Cholla Cactus Garden Trail and Cottonwood
Visitor Center and back to Twentynine
Palms..
248 JOSHUA TREE National Park, Twentynine Palms, CA
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| Wall Street Mill Trail map |
This is a large park and most of it is wilderness you can easily spend several days here. However, time is limited so this is what I fit in. There are a number of dirt road driving trails – just not enough time to do any of them. Like Death Valley they offer night programs – with a full day a night program just doesn’t fit. It gets dark way to early now and there are not enough daylight hours to see all I want to see. – nights . . . maybe when I reach Arizona..
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| Wall Street Mill - background |
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| Wall Street Mill backgournd |
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| Wall Street Mill ruins |
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| Barker Dam |
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| Barker Dam Trail - map |
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| Barker Dam front there was little water behind the dam it just looked like a wall |
 |
| Keyes View across the Coahcilla Valley |
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| Joshua Cap Rock |
.
It is a one hour
drive to the Cottonwood VC near the south entrance to the park.
Most of this drive is through the Colorado Desert along the Pinto
Basin Road. I stopped by the Skull
Rock trailhead but it
would have taken at least an hour – I decided a visit to Cottonwood
Visitor Center was the priority.
 |
| Joshua - Mohave part of the park has more rain and cooler winters - Colorado Desert has less rain warmer winters |
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| Cholla Cactus Garden |
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| Joshua - Cottonwood Visitor Center |
There is a small
nature trail behind the Cottonwood VC. A short but informative walk
describing cactus and desert plant life.
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| Joshua Cottonwood VC Desert Senna |
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| Joshua Cottonwood VC Barrel Cactus |
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| Joshua Cottonwood VC Silver Cholla |
I did not walk the
trails below – ran out of time. The trip
to Cottonwood VC itself is one hour one way and I did want to make a stop there. The first three trails below are in the
northern part of the park. There just
isn’t enough daylight at this time of year and I wanted to get back for 4:30 mass.
Skull Rock Trail is a 1.7 mile loop of boulder piles, desert washes and
Skull Rock,
Ryan Mountain (EL 5,458) Trail is a challenging 3 mile out and back with a 1,000
feet gain in elevation to the summit of Ryan Mountain.
 |
| Blessed Sacrament Church Twentynine Palms, CA |
Ryan Ranch Trail is a 1 mile out and back easy hike along a ranch road to an old abandoned adobe structure.
The Bajada /Nature Trail is a ¼ mile walk 15 miles south of the Cottonwood VC. I learned on Wednesday in Death Valley, that a bajada is confluence of several alluvial plains that flow from the canyons. Great examples are in the northern part of Death Valley in the Cottonwood Mountains.
I returned to Twentynine Palms RV around 2 pm, did laundry, prepared dinner and attended 4:30 pm mass at Blessed Sacrament Church . The church is located across the street from Joshua Tree’s Twentynine Palms VC. A small church with about 50 people attending.
SUNDAY November 22,
2015
WEATHER: 45 at 5am; clear sunny –It was 84
in San Diego with an overnight forecast in the for a low in the 60’s.. Forecast calls
for 70’s Monday then high in the 60’s for the rest of the week.
TRAVEL: Twentynine
Palms RV to Fiddler’s
Cove RV Park located on US
75 about 2 miles south of the Hotel Coronado. It was a 188 mile trip and took
about 3 ½ hour. I left at 0915 and
arrived at 1345. I was set up by
1415.
 |
| Fiddler's Cove Entrance - Yes, that is San Diego and San Diego Bay in the background |
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| Fiddler's Cove Trailer site - full hookup wide concrete pads great facilities @ $30/day |
Fiddler’s Cove RV Park & Marina is a MWR facility run by the
navy. In addition to the RV Park and an
excellent location they offer bike, boat, paddle board, kayak and small sailboat
rentals. Great palce - San Diego bay is a hundred years to the front of my trailer. Great WIFI – but no cell phone service –
interesting. Decided not to try to watch
the Packer-Viking game, it was
not carried locally anyway.
Naval Base Coronado is a consortium of eight Navy
installations:
Naval Air Station North Island, Coronado (NASNI); Naval Amphibious Base, Coronado (NAB); Naval Outlying Landing Field, Imperial Beach (NOLF IB); Naval Auxiliary Landing Field, San Clemente Island (NALF SCI); Silver Strand Training Complex, Coronado (SSTC), formerly known as the Naval Radio Receiving Facility; Camp Michael Monsoor Mountain Warfare Training Center, La Posta; Camp Morena, La Posta and the Remote Training Site, Warner Springs (RTSWS).
Yes
this is where the SEALS get their training – if they make the cut.
GREEN BAY 30 (7-3) vs Minnesota 13 (7-3).
A WIN and it was an away game.
Still not sure about the Pack. Still can't believe they lost last week to Detroit. I
didn’t watch the game but I think there were more field goals than touch
downs. It’s a win and a tie in the
division. Now on to Chicago and
Thanksgiving.
MONDAY November 23,
2015
WEATHER: low of 58 overnight; clear and sunny should be in the upper 70’s today
TRAVEL: Coronado/San
Diego area; Cabrillo National Monument
USS Ronald Reagan left port and the USS Theodore Roosevelt
returned. A big deal - when 3,000 military service
personnel and an aircraft carrier leave and return.
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| Cabrillo Visitor Center |
More helicopters (Navy) flying over this place
than any other base I’ve been at. They
use the harbor entrance as a route in and out.
Drove past the Hotel
Del Coronado and Lowes
Coronado Bay Resort – memories. Of course SeaWorld and Old
Town and San
Diego Wild Animal Park are close.
250 CABRILLO National Monument, San Diego, CA
 |
| Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo statue |
I have been to Cabrillo
National Monument in the past. There were a good number of people here –
Indians, Chinese - a tourist destination with great views of San Diego and the
harbor entrance.
Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was Portuguese; the first European to set foot on the west coast of what
is now the United States. His expedition
brought Spain’s first great era of exploration to a close.
Cabrillo came to the America’s
by 1510. He gained prominence as a
crossbowman in the conquest of the Aztec capital Tenochtitlan
(Mexico City) by Hernando
Cortez. Later he joined Pedro
de Alverado to conquer and settle Guatemala.
After Alverado died, the Viceroy
of New Spain gave Cabrillo command of three vessels: San Salvador, La Victoria and San Miguel.
 |
| Cabrillo's Ships |
On June 27, 1542,
sponsored by the Viceroy, Cabrillo and his crew sailed north from Navidad, to “discover the cost of New Spain.
On September 28,
1542, Cabrillo entered a harbor
he described as “a closed and very good port.”
He named the area San Miguel – the site of modern
San Diego. He resumed the voyage north and sighted the
islands of Santa Catalina and San Clemente, which he named San Salvador and La Victoria. He eventually sailed into what
is today modern day Los Angeles.
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| Cabrillo - Point Loma Lighthouse |
In November, the
expedition stopped for water on one of the Channel Islands,
Exactly what happened is a mystery.
There was a skirmish with the Chumash Indians – Cabrillo was wounded and he died on January
3, 1543, probably of infection.
The expedition
continued north and they may have reached Oregon. The La Victoria disappeared in a storm. The expedition was abandoned and returned to Navidad
on April 14, 1543.
The expedition
claimed over 800 miles of coastline for Spain but was considered a failure because
it did not discover the mythical route to the Orient or gold.
I watched a video
on the Tidal Pools of Cabrillo,
walked to the Point Loma Lighthouse, and viewed the WWII Coast Artillery Exhibits.
Additionally, this
was a military post during WWII and still is.
You have to enter//pass Point Loma Naval Base to get here.
 |
| Cabrillo - aerial view map of San Diego Harbor Cabirllo National Monument & Point Loma Lighhouse left bottom Just above Cabrillo is Point Loma Naval Base Sand in center left is North Island Naval Air Station Just above North Island is the San Diego Intl Airport The green on the left is Coronado I am located at Fiddler's Cover just down the road off the map in the lower right hand corner The jut of land to the right of Coronado is Naval Amphibious Base NOTE the San Diego Bay Bridge - no longer a toll bridge |
The remains of the WWII coastal defense Fort Rosecrans are also here along with the Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery.
 |
| Cabrillo - Fort Rosecrans 19th Coast Artillery |
 |
| Cabrillo - After WWI II the Coastal Artillery's Big Guns became obsolete because of the A-bomb Nike Missiles were the replacement against air attack |
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| Carbillo - WWII San Diego Harbor A High Value Target |
 |
| Imperial Beach Surfer Tribute |
 |
| Yes - this guy is carrying his pet pig, a first for the bartender also |
TUESDAY November 23,
2015
TRAVEL: Home
for Thanksgivng. Delta SAN-MSP-MKE
AFTER CHECKING ON LINE – IT APPEARS THAT CELL PHONE SERVICE
IN SAN DIEGO IS NOTORIOUSLY LOUSY.
MONDAY, November 30, 2015
TRAVEL: Return
to San Diego MKE-MSP-SAN
MY PHONE MUST HAVE WANTED TO GO HOME. SERVICE HAS BEEN RESTORED.
I finished
reading “The Yosemite” by John
Muir (1838-1914). Born in Portage, WI Muir is an easy read – very
descriptive – good use of words. Originally
published in 1912, Muir documents his
experiences in Yosemite – a vivid
description of the land and a passionate homage to nature. It would be useful to read this just before a
visit to Yosemite.r.
TUESDAY, December 1, 2015
WEATHER: 48 at 4:30 am, clear; it got up to 69 sunny – a very pleasant day
TRAVEL: Coronado to San
Juan Capistrano (about 75 miles
north); to Oceanside (about 35 south of San Juan Capistrano) and a return to San Diego and Coronado
 |
| Street View of San Juan Capistrano Entrance |
Mission San Juan Capistrano was founded November 1, 1776 by Father Junipero Serra.
It was the 7th of the 21 California missions.
This mission
appears to be the most commercialized of the California Missions and the most
expensive - $8 admission. Perhaps, it
has to do with the song – “When the
Swallows Come Back to Capistrano.”
A most visited mission. There
were at least 4 bus loads of school children visiting.
It’s patron is Giovanni
da Capistrano or John of
Capistrano (1385-1456), a preacher of extraordinary talent, a Franciscan
leader, and frequent emissary of the Pope.
Authorities disagree whether he was canonized in 1690 by Pope Alexander
VIII or in 1724 by Pope
Benedict XIII.
 |
| Model of Mission San Juan Capistrano - Stone Church destroyed by earthquake in 1812 on right, never rebuilt |
The Acjachemen people (called Juaneno by the Spanish) lived in Orange
County before the Spanish arrived. Today
the Juaneno Band of Mission Indians has nearly 2,000 members.
San Juan Capistrano was founded twice. The first time
was in 1775 when Father Fermin Lasuen, accompanied by soldiers from San Diego. set up a cross and dedicated
the site. Eight days later they learned of a
native-American attack on Mission San Diego where a padre was killed. The party buried the heavy bells they had
carried and returned to San Diego. In
1776 Junipero Serra led a party to re-establish the mission. Father Lasuen’s cross still stood..
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| Mission San Juan Ruins of Stone Church |
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| San Juan Capistrano - Bell Tower - Stone Church Ruins to right |
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| San Juan Capistrano Serra Chapel Altar |
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| San Juan Capistrano Serra Chapel view from rear |
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| San Juan Capistrano Serra Chapel St. Peregrine side chapel |
On or about St.
Joseph’s Day (March 19) each year the swallows return to Capistrano from their
winter grounds in Argentina.
 |
| San Juan Capistrano - gardens |
The mission was
secularized in 1833. The last resident
Franciscan left in 1842. In 1845 the
mission was sold but a priest was allowed to maintain the Serra
Chapel and live on the
grounds. The mission was returned to the
Catholic Church in 1865. The buildings
deteriorated until 1895, when restoration efforts were begun.
Today the mission is a parish church of the Diocese of Orange. The mission was named a minor basilica by Pope John Paul II in 2001.
 |
| Mission San Luis Rey |
Mission San Luis Rey was founded by Father Fermin Lasuen on June 12, 1798. It was the 18th
of the 21 California missions.
 |
| Mission San Luis Rey inside church |
The mission’s patron saint is St. Louis IX (1215-1270) King of France from age 11 until his death. He took part in two crusades to the Holy Land and lived an exemplary life as a Christian king. He was canonized by Pope Boniface VIII in 1297.
The
Payomkowishum people (called Luiseno by the Spanish) lived in
southern Orange County and northern San Diego County before the Spanish
arrived. They lived in small villages
and ate a varied diet of acorns, plants, small game and fish. Several modern Luiseno tribes live in northern San
Diego County.
 |
| Mission San Luis Rey Altar |
The building was
abandoned in 1829 for several decades but is remarkably well preserved. Restoration began in 1892.
Father Antonio Peyri was one of the first two missionaries assigned to San
Luis Rey.
He led San Luis Rey for 33 years until he retired at age 70.
The population of
native converts reached a high of 2, 869 in 1826. Agricultural production set records and by
1832, the mission owned 27,500 cattle and 26,100 sheep.
In 1815, San
Luis Rey established the astencia San Antonio de Pala.
Today it is the only original building from the mission era located on
an Indian reservation..
The death rate of
native converts was the lowest of any California mission. The nearby missions of San
Diego and San
Juan had already been
operating of 20 years when San Luis Rey was founded.
The native-Americans who survived had already gained some immunity to
European disease.
San Luis Rey was secularized in 1834. The powerful Pico family received 133,440 acres
from Governor Juan Alvarado. Today the rancho is Marine Corps
Base Camp Pendleton.
The mission was
returned to the Catholic Church in 1865 but remained empty until 1892. Franciscans from Zacatecas,
Mexico moved their
novitiate to San Luis Rey in 1892 and began restoration.
The mission today is a Franciscan community and conference center. The church is a parish of the Diocese
of San Diego.
1 MISSION SAN DIEGO de Alcala, 10818 San Diego Mission Rd, San
Diego, CA 92106
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| Mission San Diego de Alcala |
Mission San Diego de Alcala was founded on July 16, 1769 by Father Junipero Serra.
It was the first of the California Missions.
I have been to mass
here before on a previous visit to San Diego – no charge on Sundays for
mass. There was modest $3 fee to enter
the church and grounds.
The mission’s patron
saint is Diego de San Nicholas del Puerto (died 1463), a Franciscan Friar known for his
devout life and public speaking ability.
He was named St. Didacus by Pope Sixtus V in 1588.
The Kumeyaay, also known as the Tipai-Ipai or “people” in the Kumeyaay
language were
hunter-gatherers living in southern California moving between the coast and the
mountains.
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| Mission San Diego de Alcala front |
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| Mission San Diego de Alcala inside |
The current church
was completed in 1813. Interest in
restoration of the church began in 1891 but was not completed until 1931 by a
community group raising funds.
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| Fr Luis Jayme martyr - November 1775 Kumeyaah - Spanish conflict |
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| Mission San Diego de Alcala's namesake |
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| Misssion San Diego Altar |
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| Misssion San Diego de Alcala Saint Junipero Serra |
Mission San Diego was secularized in 1834 and the last Franciscan left in 1835. The mission and 22.21 acres of land were returned to the Catholic Church in 1855, the buildings were abandoned until 1892 when the mission grounds became a school for native-American children.
Pope Paul VI designated the mission a minor basilica in 1976. Today the mission is a parish church of the Diocese
of San Diego.
WEDNESDAY, December 2, 2015
WEATHER: 49 at 4:30 am – clear – got up to
the high 60’s.
TRAVEL: Coronado/Imperial Beach area.
Updated blog,
laundry, prepared for travel to Arizona.
THURSDAY, December 3, 2015
WEATHER: 53 at 4 am clear; 60’s mostly
across the desert; by the time I got to Tucons it was 80.
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| Davis-Monthan AFB Agave Gulch FAMCAMP Entrance |
 |
| Agave Gulch FAMCAMP Truck & Trailer |
AGAVE GULCH FAMCAMP, Davis-Monthan AFB, Tucson, AZ. This is a very large FAMCAMP.over 280 sites plus overflow. Well kept, well maintained, clean, WIFI works, cell phone coverage, and there is RV storage, I would recommend this place in a heartbeat. Great service – friendly staff. It’s easy to see why they were the winner of
“Camper’s Choice Award” for 5 years. I get CBS Thursday Night Football Packers vs. Lions tonight..
PACKERS 27 (8-4) vs LIONS
23 (3-9) – Ouch! Maybe
McCarthy should look for a new job . . . . LIONS lead 17 – 0 with 2
TD passes within 48 seconds after 13 minutes and 58 seconds in the first
quarter. Even Crosby missed a 41 yd field goal – What’s Going On? The Pack has no
offensive line – Roger’s has been sacked at least 3x . . . no wide receivers – What’s Going On? 20-0 at the half. Pack scores 2 TDs for 14 in the 3rd
quarter. 4th Quarter Detroit scores a field goal now 23 - 14
Rogers runs in for
a TD for a Lions 23 - Packers 21 score. Packers get the ball with 23 seconds left . . . . Hail Mary? - a throw - not even close – desparation – a
facemask call on Detroit – one more play - with literally no seconds left the Packers get
the Hail Mary – Rogers to Rogers 27 – 23. . . . I never liked Stafford anyway
 |
| St. Barbara Mission San Luis Rey |
Feast of St. Barbara, Patron Saint of the Field Atillery
WEATHER: 49 at 5 am – clear; Tucson forecast is for sunny with a high of 77
TRAVEL: a 152 mile 2 ¾ hr drive from Davis-Monthan to
Organ Pipe Cactus – the drive mostly through desert, at least one Indian
Reservation and 2 Border Patrol check stations.
After gas and McDonalds coffee I left around 7:30 and got there around 10 am
 |
| Organ Pipe Cactus Entrance |
 |
| Organ Pipe Cactus - Map |
 |
| Ajo Mountain Drive |
I spent 6 hours in the park. Stopped at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center, saw a 15 minute film, there were some exhibits with a small book store; Traveled the 21 mile Ajo Mountain Drive and walked 2 trails. Looking at the map you can see that I explored only the southeast ¼ of the park. You could spend at least 2-3-4 days here – but forget the drive of almost 6 hours to get there and back – you lose time – best to camp but there is no electricity – there is not much in between civilization and the park.
There
are 7 Scenic Drives. I travelled the 21
mile Ajo Mountain Drive – you don’t
want to drive your Lexus on this dirt and gravel road. Same goes for the 37 mile Puerto Blanco Loop Drive.
There is an 18 Stop Guide for the Ajo Mountain Drive but you have the ask the ranger in the
Visitor Center for it. With the trails
plan 5-6 hours on this dirt road.
There are 4 deserts in the US. The Great Basin (mostly Nevada & Utah); the Mojave (California & some of Nevada); the Sonoran (southeast of the Mojave in California and southwest Arizona) and the Chihuahuan (southwest New Mexico). Organ Pipe is in the Sonoran Desert. The winters are mostly frost free and there are two period of rainfall – one in winter/spring and another in July and August. It is a Green Desert.
 |
| Saguaro Cactus |
The Saguaro (sa-WAH-row) Cactus dominates the landscape. It is believed that they first flower at 65 years of age and might produce their first arms at around 90. No one is sure there is no way to tell the age of a cactus. The Saguaro is entirely dependent on location and rainfall. Flowers appear in May or June when it is hottest and driest – the nectar is the only moisture in town and attracts pollinators like birds and bats to spread its seeds. Without the animals it could not survive.
 |
| Organ Pipe Cactus |
 |
| Prickley Pear Cactus Ajo Mt Drive |
The
Prickly Pear Cactus is familiar to
most people because it grows naturally throughout most of the Western
Hemisphere. The prickly pear adapted to the desert by keeping its pads straight
up – only receiving sun on its edges – preventing sunburn.
 |
| Palo Verde (Green Stick) Tree |
 |
| Large Mesquite along wash close up |
 |
| Ocatillo |
 |
| Chain Fruit Cholla plentiful like the Saguaro |
 |
| Teddy Bear Cholla nothing cuddly about this thing |
There are more than a dozen hiking trails are in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument ranging from a easy 1 mile loop to trails that follow historic roads connecting mines in the Puerto Blanco Mountains.
These
trails are not marked but they are fairly easy to follow. Someone put a lot of time and effort into
planning the routes and setting stones for steps along the way. Unfortunately, there are no interpretive
markers along the trails. Temps during
the day were in the mid-70s – did not sweat as much as I did in Wyoming or Utah
earlier this year.
 |
| Arch Rock Canyon Trail - map |
 |
| Arch Rock |
 |
| Arch Rock Canyon Trail |
 |
| Estes Canyon - Bull Pasture Trail Map |
Moderate trail - crosses several washes and is relatively flat until the switchback climb to the Bull Pasture trail. It was a 1 hour walk to the crossover. Other than birds, I saw a rabbit on this trail
 |
| Estes Canyon - Bull Pasture view from near top |
· Bull Pasture (1.5 miles/ one way)
I
walked down the1 mile of the trail back to the parking lot in order to make the
loop. Difficult trail with steep grade
and exposed cliffs. Spectacular views of Mexico and the monument. I did not walk the ½ mile from where the Bull Pasture and Este Canyon Trail
meet. The 1 mile walk down from the
crossover took 40 minutes.
 |
| Signs at the junction of the trails |
 |
| Estes Canyon Bull Pasture Trail |
 |
| Estes Canyon Bull Pasture Trail |
 |
| Estes Canyon Bull Pasture Trail |
SATURDAY, December 5, 2015
WEATHER: 43 at 5 am,
got up to 77
TRAVEL Davis-Monthan
to Saguaro National Park about 23 miles 45 minutes.
252 SAGUARO National Park, 2700 N. Kinney Rd, Tucson, AZ
Tucson,
Arizona is home to the nation's largest cacti. The giant saguaro is the universal symbol of the American west. These
majestic plants, found only in a small portion of the United States, are
protected by Saguaro National Park, to the east
and west of the modern city of Tucson.
Of course the saguaro is all over SW Arizona.
 |
| Saguaro National Park - Map Tucson Mountain District (west) |
Saguaro National Park is uniquely situated around the 500 square miles that make up Tucson; which is at the heart of the Sonoran desert. Sitting at just under 2,400 feet above sea level, Tucson is 60 miles north of the U.S. Mexican border and about 100 miles south of the state capital, Phoenix. Its two districts are separated by the city's 1 million residents.
 |
| Pencil Cholla |
The Tucson Mountain District (TMD) on the west, and the Rincon Mountain District (RMD) to the east, are approximately 30 miles (45-60 minutes) apart. While similar in terms of plants and animals, the intricate details make both areas praiseworthy. The TMD (west) boasts large stands of saguaro cactus creating a saguaro forest, whereas the RMD (east) hosts a magnificent sky island, where you can find bears, cougars and the ever elusive coati (aka kudamundi). Still haven’t seen much wildlife.
 |
| Pencil Cholla |
Today I went to the TMD Red Hills Visitor Center located on Kinney Road. To get there, I drove through Tucson Mountain County Park, passed Old Tucson and the Desert Museum. I spent about 4 hours in the park.
The Visitor Center has a 15 minute film featuring the cultural background of the Sonoran Desert, a small gift shop, and a few exhibits.
I drove the dirt Scenic Bajada Loop and walked 4 short trails.
Hikes here can be a strolling nature walk or a day long
wilderness trek. There are over 130
miles of trails that wind through the desert and mountain country of Ricon Mountain District. I opted for 4 of
the shorter trails. The trails I walked had
interpretive markers.
There is a short walk around the Visitor Center dubbed the
Trail. Not much of a walk but it
may be about as much desert as some people may want.
The Desert Discovery Trail a another paved self-guided nature trail about 1 mile NW of the Red Hills Visitor Center on Kinney Road. A paved trail not that exciting.
The Valley View Overlook Trail was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) and is located on the Bajada Loop Drive. It crosses two washes then gradually ascends stone steps to view the Avra Valley below.
 |
| Hedgehog Cactus |
 |
| John Muir Quote Saguaro TMD VC |
 |
| John Muir Quote Saguaro TMD VC |
 |
| Top of Signal Hill - Petroglyphs |
The Signal Hill Trail is a
short climb from a CCC built
picnic area to an area where there are ancient petroglyphs.
5 pm Mass at Christ the King Catholic Community located on Davis-Monthan AFB in the Desert Dove Chapel. The priest is a “contract priest” not an Air Force Chaplain. They have daily mass at 1130 similar to some Navy bases I’ve stayed at. Admittedly, this is the first time I’ve sang at a mass since Christmas – something just said sing. The choir was very small – 3 men and 1 woman. The bass looked and sounded like “Lurch” from the Munsters. The woman was screechy and really couldn’t sing. The tenor was loud with a beard. The choir leader was a young guy – very nice voice. A pianist played an out of tune baby grand. Together they made music – not all that beautiful – but it invited me to sing. The priest had a lengthy homily; but again something said it wasn’t long. I listened. He was good He concluded with asking ‘who are you going to invite to Christmas Mass?’
HAPPY ST. Nicholas Day!
WEATHER: 50 at 4:30 am,
clear, got up to 76 in Tucson
TRAVEL:
Davis-Monthan to south to Tumacacori
National Historical Park , continued south to Nogales then headed up to Coronado National Memorial passing Fort Huachucha and back to Davis-Monthan. Of course there was a Border Patrol checkpoint to go through on the way back.
AGAVE GULCH FAMCAMP WIFI appears to be intermittent or it
shuts down on the weekends. Unable to connect
for the last 2 days. Yesterday, I made
an appointment with O’Reilly Chevrolet for an oil change and tire rotation on
Tuesday; arranged for storage of my trailer and truck until March; got a room
for one night at the Air Force Inn. I stored the vehicles and confirmed
that a taxi can enter base and take me to the airport.
Since
sometime at the turn of this century perhaps, there has been too much flag
lowering, and as a result the flag appears to be at half-staff almost as much as
it is raised. While I was working
someone in the organization had all the flags on company property lowered to
half-staff in honor of the death of an employee. A clear violation of flag code. Respect Yes –
flag lowering - - - - seems like it’s
been cheapened.
 |
| These signs were everywhere This was the only one I found with an explanation - top left |
This was the 45th
Annual Tumacacori Fiesta – it could have
been fun.
This was a mission
founded by Jesuits and taken over by
the Franciscans. I made a quick tour of the
church and small museum.
 |
| Tumacacoris Mission Church chairs set up in front for mass |
HISTORY:
As Jesuit Eusebio Francisco Kino and his party approached the O'odham (or Pima) settlement of Tumacácori
in January 1691, they rode the wave of a century of expansion northward along
New Spain's west coast corridor. The Jesuits
had reaped tens of thousands of baptisms and made themselves the region's most
powerful social and economic force. But the tide carried them no farther north
than the Pimería Alta, home of the upper Piman Indians.
 |
| Inside of mission church |
 |
| NPS diorama of the Pima Indians attending mass |
In 1751 some Pimas in
the Altar Valley, southwest of Tumacácori,
attacked the Spanish settlements there. Fearing retaliation from Spanish
soldiers, those at Tumacácori fled
to the hills. As a result, a 50-man presidio was founded at Tubac, and the mission at Tumacácori was resettled on the west
bank.
 |
| Yaqui - apparently ceremonial masks, as in this exhibit, were the reason for NO PHOTOS signs everywhere. |
254 CORONADO National Memorial, 4101 E Montezuma Canyon Rd, Hereford, AZ
The Visitor
Center had new exhibits
that just opened yesterday. Much of this
land is owned by the US Forest Service and you can find the Border Patrol very active.
THE CORONADO EXPEDITION
It
was a journey of conquest, filled with exploration, wonder, and cruelty.
Inspired by tales of vast cities of gold, 339 European soldiers and over 1100
Indian allies embarked on an epic journey through arid deserts and rugged
mountains. They brought rich traditions and new technology into the region,
irrevocably changing the lives of native peoples and continuing to influence
the area today.
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| Coronado Expedition Route |
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| Map - Coronado National Memorial |
Coronado National Memorial is the only unit in the National Park System that commemorates the Francisco Vásquez de Coronado Expedition of 1540-1542. When reporting to Congress in 1940 on the establishment of the Memorial, the Committee on Public Lands and Surveys noted that: "Coronado's expedition was one of the outstanding achievements of a period marked by notable explorations. It made known the vast extent and the nature of the country that lay north of central Mexico, and from the time of Coronado, Spaniards never lost interest in the country. In no small measure their subsequent occupation of it was due to the curiosity so created."
The creation of the Memorial
was not to protect any tangible artifacts related to the expedition, but rather
to provide visitors with an opportunity to reflect upon the impact the Coronado Entrada had in shaping the
history, culture, and environment of the southwestern United States and its
lasting ties to Mexico and Spain. The Memorial has two sister parks in Mexico.
The location was chosen for the panoramic views of the US-Mexico
border and the San Pedro River Valley, the route believed
to have been taken by Coronado. It
was hoped that this proximity to the border would strengthen bi-national amity
and the bonds, both geographical and cultural, which continue to link the two
countries.
The Memorial, located
near the center of the Sky Island
bioregion (the juncture of four major biogeographic provinces: Madrean, Sonoran, Chihuahuan, and
Southern Rockies/Mogollon), preserves a rich biological and geological
diversity. Visitors are able to enjoy recreational opportunities that foster a
better understanding and appreciation of the natural and human history of the
area.
The mountain ranges
in southeast Arizona where Coronado
National Memorial is located are called Sky Islands. They suddenly rise out of the flat desert landscape
into the sky, like islands rising above a calm sea.
The drive up Montezuma Pass is a steep climb but I think I’ve been on worse. The 1st mile is paved, the last
two are dirt.Coronado Peak Trail
0.8 miles/1.3 km round-trip Difficulty: Easy Elevation change: 300 ft/90 m
This
interpretive trail climbs from the trailhead at Montezuma Pass to Coronado Peak. There are sweeping views
of Sonora, Mexico
and the San Pedro River
and San Rafael Valleys. It was 57 degress with a steady breeze Montezuma Pass EL 6575, where the Border Patrol had Ground Surveillance
radar stations set up. The hike to Coronado Peak (EL 6864) took about 20
minutes one way.
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| Looking down from Montezuma Pass to Montezuma Canyon Road |
Yaqui Ridge Trail
2 miles/3.2 km round-trip Difficulty: Difficult Elevation change: 600 ft/180 m
2 miles/3.2 km round-trip Difficulty: Difficult Elevation change: 600 ft/180 m
A
spur from the Joe’s Canyon Trail, the trail descends steeply to the US/Mexico border. Here
you can view International Boundary Marker 102 located at the southwestern
corner of the park. This trail marks the southern terminus of the Arizona
National Scenic Trail, an 800+ mile diverse and scenic trail that extends from
Mexico to Utah. If there had been more
time these would be trails to walk.
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| Montezuma Pass Parking Lot -Border Patrol Ground Surveillance Radar right and left |
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| View to Mexico from Coronado Peak |
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| Road up Montezuma Canyon |
Coronado Cave Trail 1 mile/1.4 km round-trip Difficulty: Moderate Elevation change: 500 ft. The trailhead is located .25 mile/.4 km west of the visitor center. The entrance to the cave is .5 mile from the trailhead and requires scrambling 25 feet down a rocky slope to the cave floor. The cave interior extends 600 feet in length, with 20 foot high ceilings. Those planning to explore the limestone cave should bring at least two sources of light per person. I ran out of time to visit here.
MONDAY, December 7, 2015
WEATHER: 55 at 5 am,
thin scattered clouds, looks like rain
TRAVEL: Davis-Monthan
AFB to Saguaro
NP – Rincon Mountain District to Davis-Mothan AFB. A round trip of
about 20 miles.
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| Saguaro Rincon Mountain District Entrance |
The Visitor Center for Saguaro-Rincon
Mountain District is only 1o miles east of Davis-Monthan AFB. I arrived at the VC about 8:45 and walked the
paved Nature Trail around the VC waiting for the VC to open at 9 am. The VC has a small bookstore, exhibits and
small theatre. It shows two videos: one
on the history of the area (30 minute)
the other about the park (15 minute).
They are not the same as shown in the TMD Red Hills VC.
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| Saguaro East - Rincon Mountain District (RMD) Map The highlighted area is the Cactus Forest Drive Much of the park is Wilderness |
I’m feeling pretty comfortable with identification of cacti and vegetation in the Sonoran Desert. I can identify the following on sight.
Saguaro Cactus Hanging
Fruit Cholla Agave
Ocatillo Teddy
Bear Cholla Barrel Cactus
Prickley Pear Cactus Pencil Cholla Creosote Bush
White Thorn Acacia Mesquite Hedgehog
Cactus
Palo Verde
On today’s trails I
learned about at least six new desert plants.
The photos above do not do justice to the plants and their flowers.
From the VC there is an
8 mile paved Cactus Forest Drive loop,
with a number of trail heads that can be accessed from the road. The trail system here is rather extensive and
many criss-cross but they well marked and I found them easy to follow.
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| Desert Christmas Tree Christmas Cholla Plenty of Red Berries |
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| White Stem Paper Flower |
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| Desert Zinnia |
The photos above do not do justice to the plants and their flowers.
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| Cactus Forest Drive |
There are four main trailheads along Cactus Forest Drive, I walked two of the 3 of the trails.
New plants identified
here were the Desert Christmas Tree,
the White Stem Paper Flower and the Desert Zinnia. This was one
of the first desert trails where I could here the birds singing and the smell
of mesquite . . . . the only other
wildlife was one ant and a few butterflies.
Something exciting about this trail – I loved walking it.
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| Desert Ecology Trail - Desert Mistletoe |
The Desert Ecology Trial is a ¼ mile paved trail . . . I found one new desert plant. Otherwise, nothing exciting about this trail. I thawayink it sees too many people. The birds generally fly away – on your approach. It was good to hear them singing.
 |
| Loma Verde Trail - and intersection of many other trails |
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| I believe this to be basalt in a wash |
The Loma Verde Loop was a 3.8 mile loop that began at the
Loma Verde Trailhead. It took almost 2 hours and I saw only one other person on the trail. From the trailhead you head north through a grove of mature mesquite trees – you cross a large sandy wash where I found a basalt specimen and climb a small bluff onto the bajada (gravel plain).
The trail passes the
filled in Loma Verde Mine and continues north to a junction with the Pink Hill Trail and a short spur that
will lead you up to an overlook of the cactus forest and the Tanque Verde Ridge. |
| The trails are well marked but a map helps unconfuse the confusion |
This side of the RMD is very small the eastern park beyond the /Cactus Trail Drive to the east and up in the mountains is wilderness backcountry ready to explore. This was more pleasant of a visit than to the TMD.
TUESDAY, December 8, 2015
WEATHER: 46 at 5 a,
clear got up to the high 70’s the sun is
warm. ‘ Red sky at night – sailors
delight.’ It should be a good day
tomorrow.
TRAVEL:
O’Reilly Chevrolet and around Davis-Monthan
WIFI
at Davis-Mothan AFB FAMCAMP has come back
after the weekend but slowed down considerably making it hard to update the blog.
Oil change at O’Reilly Chevrolet in Tucson, AZ – a large dealership p – valiant
attempt at service but the courtesy of the personnel and a $3 coupon for their
snack shop did not make up of a 2+ hour oil change & tire rotation, I had an appointment at 7 am – got there at
0645 and by 7 when the doors opened there were 14 cars in line at the 5 service
doors – all probably 7am appointments. At least a dozen service advisors – when
I left there were another 14 cars in the entrance bays. Allowed me to read the synopsis of ten
lectures I’ve listened to in the Battles of Ancient World course.
Feast of the Immaculate Conception -1130 mass at the post chapel. Same priest as Saturday – patron saint of the US - challenges face our country.
WEDNESDAY, December 9, 2015
WEATHER: 48 0430, when
the sun rose the sky was ‘red sky in the morning sailor take warning’ - thin clouds formed but it got up to 79 –
this evening there was a ‘red sky at night sailor’s delight’ – oh yeah – I am
in the desert
TRAVEL:
Davis-Monthan to Casa Grande
Ruins to Davis Monthan –
a trip of about 75 miles 1 ½ hours one way.
Coolidge is big enough for a Wal-Mart.
This site is worth
a 1 ½ hour visit. A 22 minute film in
the Visitor Center, museum, and a bookstore set up
the day.
the Visitor Center, museum, and a bookstore set up
the day.
An
Ancient Sonoran Desert People's farming
community and "Great House" are preserved at Casa Grande Ruins. Whether the Casa
Grande
was a gathering place for the Desert People or simply a
waypoint marker in an extensive system of canals and trading partners is but
part of the mystique of the Ruins. The term Ancient
Sonoran Desert People is the politically correct way to refer to the archeologist
cultural period designated Hohokam (ho-ho-KAHM).
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| Casa Grande - this is a 4 story structure- it became a NM in 1918 This is the second roof - built in the 1930's |
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| Casa Grande Model |
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| Casa Grande Layout |
The site was discovered by Padre Kino – the same from Tumacacori. He named it Casa Grande, Spanish for “great house.” The site was abandoned in the early 1400’s – 3 centuries before the missionaries arrived in 1694. Casa Grande was completed around 1350. From 300 – 1400 there was a growth and decline in the Hohokam culture. No one is really sure why the site and a surrounding community of 2,000 was abandoned.
The
structures were built with material in the ground: caliche (cuh-LEE-chee) is a concrete-like mix of
sand, clay and calcium-carbonate (limestone).
The caliche mud was layered to form walls four feet thick at the
base. Hundreds of juniper, pine, and
fire trees were carried or floated 60 miles down from the mountains to the
village on
the Gila River.
Despite centuries of weathering – the walls still stand. The roof over the structure was built in the
1930’s. Read below for more on the Hohokum
culture.
256 HOHOKUM PIMA National Monument, Chandler, AZ
The only National Monument you can’t visit.
Hohokam Pima National Monument was authorized
by Congress on October 21, 1972, to protect an ancient Hohokam village known today as "Snaketown." Excavations in the 1930's and again in the
1960's revealed the site was inhabited from about 300 BC to around 1200 AD and
may have had up to 2,000 inhabitants. Following the last excavations, the site
was completely recovered with earth, leaving nothing visible above ground. The Monument is located on the Gila River Indian Reservation
and is under tribal ownership. The Gila River Indian Community
has decided not to open the extremely sensitive area to the public
Hohokam Pima National Monument recognizes
the significance of Snaketown, a Hohokam village
inhabited from about 300 AD to around 1200 AD. This ancient village, which may
have had as many as 2,000 inhabitants, is within the Gila River Indian Reservation
near Sacaton, Arizona.
Snaketown was excavated in the 1930s by the Gila Pueblo Foundation and again in the 1960s under the direction of Emil Haury, Assistant Director of Gila Pueblo. After the 1960’s work, the site was backfilled to protect it for future research, leaving nothing visible above ground. The excavations revealed that the Hohokam of southern Arizona were one of the main cultural groups of the Southwest. The site also contained information that indicated that the Hohokam people were strongly influenced by cultural groups in Mexico. Mexican cultural groups introduced patterns of “urban style” living to the Hohokam people who earlier lived in scattered rancherias around the region. Snaketown provided evidence of the “urban style” of living the Hohokam culture embraced with its central plaza, two oval shaped fields surrounded by pit houses, an elaborate irrigation system, crematoriums, and places for inhabitants to produce pottery and jewelry.
Most of the Hohokam population lived in pit houses constructed in a manner similar to that of the Mogollon pit houses. Pit houses were carefully dug, shallow and rectangular depressions in the earth that were constructed of logs covered in reeds, saplings, and mud. The pit houses at Snaketown were situated around two oval shaped fields thought to be ball courts. The ball courts are each about 60 meters long, 33 meters apart, and 2.5 meters high.
Snaketown was excavated in the 1930s by the Gila Pueblo Foundation and again in the 1960s under the direction of Emil Haury, Assistant Director of Gila Pueblo. After the 1960’s work, the site was backfilled to protect it for future research, leaving nothing visible above ground. The excavations revealed that the Hohokam of southern Arizona were one of the main cultural groups of the Southwest. The site also contained information that indicated that the Hohokam people were strongly influenced by cultural groups in Mexico. Mexican cultural groups introduced patterns of “urban style” living to the Hohokam people who earlier lived in scattered rancherias around the region. Snaketown provided evidence of the “urban style” of living the Hohokam culture embraced with its central plaza, two oval shaped fields surrounded by pit houses, an elaborate irrigation system, crematoriums, and places for inhabitants to produce pottery and jewelry.
Most of the Hohokam population lived in pit houses constructed in a manner similar to that of the Mogollon pit houses. Pit houses were carefully dug, shallow and rectangular depressions in the earth that were constructed of logs covered in reeds, saplings, and mud. The pit houses at Snaketown were situated around two oval shaped fields thought to be ball courts. The ball courts are each about 60 meters long, 33 meters apart, and 2.5 meters high.
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| Casa Grandetem Ruins - Irrigation System |
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| Casa Grande Ruins - Canal System |
Hohokam Pima National Monument, which is under the ownership of the Gila River Indian Reservation, preserves this significant piece of American Indian cultural heritage. Due to the sensitive nature of this site, the Gila River Indian Community has decided not to open this site to the public. There is no public access to the Hohokam Pima National Monument.
The
Arizona State Museum, located in
Tucson, AZ had information and artifacts from Snaketown.
THURSDAY, December 10, 2015
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| The Blanchard Golf Course at Davis- Monthan Hole #3 tee |
TRAVEL:
Davis-Monthan area
GOLF at the Blanchard
Course on Davis-Monthan. Played 18 for $24 with a friend from
Wisconsin who spends winters here in Tucson. Not my best round ever – shot 55 on the front and 54 on the
back. Narrow course but the fairways
were green – unfortunately I was rarely in the fairway. The greens were a little tough to figure out also
and I found the sand plenty of times – hence the score. I may try this again sometime – dinner at the
friend’s park home. The faiways are greener than this one looks.
FRIDAY, December 11, 2015
WEATHER: 51 at 4 am, driving to Tonto it got to 38 at one point. Most of the day was in the 50’s - cloudy – I
wore a long sleeve shirt climbing the trail to the Upper Dwellings; by 2 pm it was 61 but a short sleeve sufficed for the climb to the Lower
Dwellings. Red sky tonight - - - - there was a short
light rain about 7:15 pm
TRAVEL: Davis-Monthan to Tonto
National Monument to Davis-
Mothnan. I left at 6:00 am in order to make a 10 am
tour of the Upper Cliff Dwelling. A 149 mile 3 hour one way trip. It took a little over 3 hours to return due
to traffic.
 |
| Tonto National Monument Entrance |
This is a full
day. The park is small. It only had two trails – surrounded by the
Tonto National Forest. You have to
register (call ahead) for the ranger-guided
Upper Cliff Dwelling Trail. The trail to the Lower
Cliff Dwelling is self-guided. There is a 20 minute film on the upper level
of the Visitor Center. I spent 6 hours
in the park.
 |
| Who Were The Salado? - sign is not the Loweer Cliff Dwelling Trail |
The
Salado, 700
years ago, blended ideas of neighboring Native American cultures to emerge a
unique and vibrant society. Tonto National Monument showcases two Salado-style
cliff dwellings. Colorful pottery, woven cotton cloth, and other artifacts tell
a story of people living and using resources from the northern Sonoran Desert from 1250 to 1450 AD. Salado (Salt in
Spanish) is the name given to the culture that thrived here – named after the Salt River.
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| Upper Cliff Dwelling NPS photo |
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| Upper Dwelling - A "T" Doorway Walls and roof of room to the front are gone - providing a great view of the Salt River Valley |
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| Upper Dwelling View from the trail |
Small doorways helped retain heat; many were sealed when rooms were no longer being used. Some doorways are shaped like a "T" or half-"T", which may have reduced drafts. Perhaps they were meant to hold jars or help someone balance while entering the room. It is still possible to see fingerprints of the ancient people who built these remarkable structures on the plaster.
 |
| Upper Dwelling - one of the first rooms has a roof of saguaro skeletons, beams and mud/plaster |
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| Upper Dwelling - A later addition with a roof made of reeds from the Salt River not Saguaro skeletons? Why? |
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| Tonto NM Lower Cliff Dwelling Though one of the first National Monuments , Tonto still faced vandalism and relic hunters until the 1930's |
 |
| Tonto NM - View of the Lower Cliff Dwelling |
Lower Cliff Dwelling - The Lower Cliff Dwelling
is a steep paved mile round trip walk. It was 61 degrees but I worked up a
sweat on the climb. The trail had a
number of plants, cactus and cultural interpretive signs. There are no interpretive signs on the Upper Trail.
 |
| Lower Dwelling - View |
 |
| Lower Dwelling Trail Metamorphic Quartzite |
 |
| Lower Dwelling Room |
SATURDAY, December 12, 2015
WEATHER: 45 at 4:15 am, raining, been
raining most of the night – stopped and raining again at 7:15 am temp steady at
45. Plenty of interesting weather as I
travelled east – snow in the mountains – very windy.
TRAVEL: Davis-Monthan to Fort
Bowie NHS to NM to Davis-Monthan. It took 2+ hours to get to Fort
Bowie another hour to
Chricachua and two hours back to Davis-Monthan.
I left a 10 am and got back around 7pm.
Maybe the ‘red sky at night “ in the desert means
a good day or perhaps good rain.
However, walking and driving on dirt roads after an inch of rain could mean
mud or flood. Thinking of a pass on travel to Chiricahua
and Fort
Bowie today . . . . did
laundry, read, - - - -perhaps see a
movie. Well – at 10am – it started to
clear - I decided to go. It was a good decision.
 |
| My GARMIN took me to 3327 Old Fort Bowie Road The Maintenance/Admin Area |
Check
the Internet or call before you come here.
It is currently only open Thursday through Monday. You cannot drive to the site. You have a 1 ½ mile walk in.
I came through the
back door to get here. I took a left
when I should have gone straight. So it
was a 2+ mile dirt road until it tuned to one line paved instead a 1 mile dirt road to the
trail-head. I came in through the Ranger
quarters and admin area and took a hike up ¼ mile trail to the Visitor
Center.
 |
| Fort Bowie 2015 - not much to look at - and it was cold & very windy out there |
It was 39 degrees
with a 25-30 mph steady wind. It was
cold! Before I started the short trail
which I thought was 1 ½ mile it started to rain pelting hail. It didn”t
last long, but the wind never stopped.
I wore a long sleeved t shirt, a hooded sweatshirt – my Schmidt wool
lined hooded barn jacket and leather gloves with liners. The wind did not penetrate the Schmidt.
 |
| Fort Bowie US Flag in a stiff wind |
I
should have started at the Trailhead on Apache Pass Road, to walk a 3-mile round trip hike to the Fort
Bowie Viisitor Center and fort ruins. Along the way I would have passed the
site of the Bascom Affair, the site of the Battle of Apache Pass, and Apache Springs.
THE BASCOM AFFAIR – for two weeks in February
1861, Apache
Pass
was the setting for a confrontation between the Chiricahua
Apaches,
led by Cochise, and a detachment of US soldiers led by LT George Bascom and Overland Mail
Station
employees. The “affair” sparked a war
that would not end until 1872.
The Beginning – On January 27,1861 groups of Apaches
raided the ranch of John Ward. Ward would lose 20
head of stock and the kidnapping of his 12 year old son. The raid was blamed on
Chiricahua Apaches. LT George Bascom was sent with 54 men of the 7th
Infantry to “recover the stock and the boy.”
Bascom met with Cochise on February 4th. Bascom accused Cochise
of the raid, Cochise denied participation but offered to find the
boy. Bascom told Cochise to have his
brother Coyuntoro find the boy. Bascom was also under
orders to bring Cochise in. Cochise
escaped but his party and brother were held by Bascom as hostages.
Aftermath – Reinforcements arrived from
Fort Buchanan. Patrols were sent out and
on February 18th the soldiers discovered the remains of the four
hostages. The federals officers decided
to retaliate by hanging six adult male Apaches near the site
were Cochise had executed his hostages. Cochise and his
followers continued attacks upon mail riders, ranchers, miners, and the
military. The attacks continued until General Oliver Otis Howard arranged an armistice in the autumn of 1872.
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| Mountain Howitzer on the porch of the Visitor Center the Ranger didn't know much about it |
The Confederate States – Early Confederate victories by General Sibley in southern New Mexico were
halted by Federal Colorado Volunteers near Santa Fe, New Mexico in March 1862.
While the Confederates were moving in West Texas the call went out to
Californians to defend their state. One
force called the “California Column” was commanded by BG James Carleton. They were ordered to march
east, cross Arizona and threaten Sibley ‘s lines of communication running
south to El Paso. When the Californians arrived in Tucson in May 1862, Sibley had already
met defeat two months earlier.
The California Column – BG Carleton had about 2,350 men in Tucson.
Realizing that the desert would not allow his column to move in one body
he divided his command so as not to deplete water sources along the route of
march. A 140 man cavalry force under LTC
Edward Eyre reached Apache
Pass on June 25 and
continued to the Rio Grande before reporting to
Carleton. Carleton, fearing Eyre had been repulsed, sent a second
force under CPT Thomas Roberts, who left Tucson on July 10 with 126 men, 22 wagons, and two howitzer
cannons. The force arrived in Apache
Pass on July 15. Cochise and Mangus
Coloradas prepared an ambush
for Roberts.
 |
| Fort Bowie Trailhead 1 1/2 Mile walk to the VC from here |
I spent 1 ¾ hours
on the site without walking the trail.
I did drive to the trail-head but decided that I’d attempt to reach Chiricahua NM. My Garmin indicated a 25 mile long route from the trail-head to Chiracahua along a dirt road or a 70 mile route back the way I came and through Willcox, AZ. I took the long route – unsure of the dirt road or where it led. Had it been a better day without, rain, sleet, ice and snow I would have taken the dirt road. I had a hope to walk the trail tomorrow but time did not allow . . .
 |
| The road to Chiricahua - an omnious sign |
Chiricahua National Monument is one of the National Park Service’s secret treasures. It is located 37 miles off
I-10. You discover a mountain wonderland
of trees, wild animals, and the amazing balanced rock and pinnacles that make
this place so unique. I saw more birds
here than anywhere else in my travels.
Even some wildlife.
 |
| Chiricahua Entrance Sign |
The
Visitor Center is a good drive from the
entrance. The Bonita Canyon Road was
closed due to 5” of snow. Chances looked
good for opening on Sunday.
BACKGROUND:
The
origin of the name "Apache" probably stems from the Zuñi "apachu". Apaches in fact
referred to themselves with variants of "nde",
simply meaning "the people".
By 1850, Apache culture was a blend of influences from the
peoples of the Great Plains, Great Basin, and the Southwest, particularly the
Pueblos, and as time progressed--Spanish, Mexican, and the recently arriving
American settler.
 |
| Chircahua VC A Winter Wonderland |
When living in Apache Pass, Chiricahuas subsisted mainly by hunting large game, gathering plant foods, and practicing a limited amount of agriculture. Hunting was the responsibility of the men, while gathering food and herbal medicines was the domain of the women. Seasonal migration patterns depended upon the availability of food resources in specific regions at a particular time.
In early times raids were directed against enemy tribes, such as the Comancheros and Papagoes, but later the Spanish and Mexicans became more lucrative targets. Conflict between the Apaches and their Spanish-Mexican neighbors ebbed and flowed for over 200 years.
Acquiring the Gadsden Purchase in 1854, the domain of the Chiricahuas brought them into contact with the Americans. Increase population brought an increase in warfare as Cochise's followers engaged settlers and military forces from both sides of the border from 1861-1872. Other Chiricahua leaders such as Victorio and Juh battled similar adversaries from 1877-1883.
From 1885-86 the Chiricahuas were relentlessly pursued by military forces from the U.S., Mexico, and allied Apache scouts in the employ of the U.S. Army. Geronimo surrendered to General George Crook in March 1886. Fearing retaliation, Geronimo and a small following fled back into the Sierra Madre Mountains, prompting Crook's resignation and replacement with General Nelson Miles. On September 5, 1886, Lt. Charles Gatewood succeeded in negotiating a final surrender. Thereafter the Chiricahuas, including the scouts, were exiled to Florida, Alabama, and eventually Oklahoma. In 1913, approximately 130 were permitted to move onto the Mescalero Reservation in New Mexico.
SUNDAY, December 13, 2015
WEATHER: 38 at 5 am – clear – even colder
in the mountains to the east - 57 when I
got back to Tucson around 5 pm
TRAVEL: Davis-Mothan
to Chricachua NM about 2 hours
one way.
 |
| This is the parish Center The church is actually to my left |
259 CHRICACHUA National Monument, 12856 E Rhyolite Creek Rd, Willcox, AZ
I
arrived at the Visitor Center about 10:50 am – the road was
still closed – so I viewed 3 videos that were offered at the VC.
 |
| Lower Rhyolite Trail map |
 |
| Rhyolite Trail through the woods |
 |
| Rhyolite Trail Junction This was the 1.5 mile 55 minute walk in mark and the turn around point |
 |
| Rhyolite Trail Now the snow is on the trail |
I
got back to the VC about 1:10 and they just got word that the Bonita Canyon
Road was open. I drove the road with the
intention of walking the Massai Nature Trail and perhaps the Sugarloaf
Trail. On a better day the Echo Canyon
Trail loop would be a good bet.
On
the way up Bonita Canyon Road I stopped along the way at several way stops.
 |
| Bonita Canyon Road Organ Pipe Formation |
 |
| Bonita Canyon Road |
 |
| Bonita Canyon Road Sea Captain Formation\center top |
MASSAI NATURE TRAIL – EL 6,780 it
was 37 degrees here with a consistent wind of 20+ mph. My hands with gloves & liners got
cold. Great views of all the area
and the other trails. The trail features grand vistas of the
surrounding valleys and mountain ranges,
a balanced rock and trail signs that highlight the history of the monument. There is a paved portion from the parking lot
to the exhibits – a ranger had even shoveled the snow on the walk. |
| Massai Point Trail |
 |
| Massai Point Trail Observation Deck most likely built by the CCC |
 |
| View from the Massai Point Trail - the Echo Canyon Trail is below - Sugarloaf in the distance with the top cut off |
ECHO CANYON TRAIL – a volunteer yesterday told me this was her favorite trail. Well it was cold and there was snow and there was not enough time – I needed at least 2 ½ hours for this 3.3 mile trail. Maybe another time.
 |
| Nobody had been on this trail and I didn't feel like being a trailblazer I walked down and couldn't decide if it went right or left |
 |
| Sugarloaf in the distance |
SUGARLOAF TRAIL - This .9- mile, one-way trail
climbs over 450 feet in elevation to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain. A historic
fire lookout tower can be discovered at the end of the trail. A ranger told me that this was her favorite
trail - well ,I wasn’’t going to be a trial blazer having no idea where the
trial went in the snow.
BOTTOM
LINE: I’d come back here again for
hiking and geology.
 |
| Massai Point Cochise Head Formation imagine the picture counter clockwise |
GREEN BAY 21 vs DALLAS 7. Driving back from Chiricahua NM I tuned into Channel 82 on Sirius XM and was surprised to hear the Packer-Dallas game on the radio- just as if I was in Wisconsin – it was the Green Bay Packer Radio Network complete with Wisconsin commercials. I tuned in the 3rd quarter and watched the 4th quarter at the Sports Bar on Davis-Monthan AFB. Looks like McCarthy is back to calling the plays and they still don’t have a passing game but the running game - won the game.- of course they did not face Romo.
MONDAY, December 14, 2015
WEATHER: 41 at 5:30 am – clear – clouded up around 8 – windy - temps in the low
50’s.
TRAVEL: around the area
Read, updated
the blog, wrote Christmas cards,
prepared for storage and travel.
TUESDAY, December 15, 2015
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| Room 621 the reverse of 126 - coincidence? |
 |
| Business Suites Entrance |
WEATHER: 33 at 5:30 am – a 3 dog night – I did
get up and turn the heat on – twice – it was 41 in the trailer – a 3 dog night
but I only brought out two blankets. Cleared in the 50's.
TRAVEL: stored the truck and trailer at
Davis-Mothnan. A friend drove me back
from the storage lot which is about 5 miles from the base Air Force Inn where
I’m staying tonight. Nice room VIP
quarters in the “Business Suites.”
Living room, spare bedroom/office, stocked bar/refrigerator/snacks. bedroom
and bath.
WEDNESDAY, December 16, 2015
WEATHER: Forecast for cold again tonight.
TRAVEL: Taxi to the airport – flight to Phoenix to Chicago.
I’ll be picked up in Chicago and home
for the holidays.
TRAVELS
BEGIN AGAIN JANUARY 2016.
